Valve cover gasket leak ?

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gcjazz12
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Leaking here... Is this the valve cover gasket? Nearing 200k... Would high mileage oil stop this leak? Pics descend into engine area best I could... Thanks

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Last edited by gcjazz12 on Tue Nov 20, 2012 9:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.


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Towncivilian
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Try tightening the valve cover screws if you can, sometimes they back out slightly and cause a leak.

High mileage oil may help, it wouldn't hurt to switch to an HM oil and run it for at least a few oil change intervals to see if it has any affect.

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gcjazz12
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I tightened the bolts... Needed an extension to get to them. I can't believe how easy they turned, I had at least a quarter turn in each bolt, the one towards the cabin turned the most, lets hope that was the answer. Thanks Towncivilian

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gcjazz12
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I've done a few more tightenings since last post and looks like still may have a small leak.

The dealership said would do the gasket for $350.

I'm not looking for the cheapest solution here, but am hesitant to start messing with taking apart things under the hood....

How likely is it that high mileage oil may stop this leak, or should I just have the gasket done?

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Towncivilian
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If it's just a small leak, try a few oil change intervals using a high mileage oil (I would recommend either Valvoline MaxLife or Mobil 1 High Mileage) and see if that helps at all. If it doesn't help by then have the gasket replaced.

If you do decide to have the gasket replaced, have them put threadlocker on the power valve screws while everything's apart and maybe replace the PCV valve since it's so buried.

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gcjazz12
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I put in M1 HM yesterday afternoon... still a slow small leak - so I'm looking a little deeper and it looks like I'm missing a screw???

Shouldn't there be a screw here (about two inches from the left, in the middle of the pic) I think this part of the valve cover:

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Towncivilian
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It will take some time before high mileage oil has any affect, if at all. It might even take as long as a few oil change intervals.

It sure looks like a missing screw to me. Could you provide a broader photo so I can help recognize where exactly that bolt should be? Also see EM-36 which shows a diagram of the valve cover gaskets and their bolts. If one is missing, definitely try to get one in there.

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gcjazz12
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At Infiniti today for the second attempt to repair strut tower housing. I asked them to quote me on the valve cover gasket as it appears now leaking out both sides. Been using mobil1 high mileage for about a year + now. Maybe I'm changing oil to frequently. They wanted 1000 to do the repair. 400 was labor which I was good with but they said I need new valve covers because the seals for them are not sold separate for that year. I figured it was as simple as replacing the cheap gaskets and that was it. They're the dealer I know, but is what they're saying sounding right?

Verycrisp
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I've seen the gaskets available in some of the oem parts sites. The part # is 13270 and they call them gasket-rocker cover. They are less than $15 each but expect a few dollars more at the dealership. I have the exact same problem and plan on doing the service this weekend so I have been researching as much as I can.

Leo1998
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Just did the valve cover gaskets on my '98 Pathfinder and I would do the spark plugs while you have the plenum off. Also I had to replace a small coolant hose on the very back of the engine that connects to the plenum, it's easier to cut the hose off and buy a new one along with a couple new clamps that you can tighten with a screw driver or socket(instead of the squeeze clamps) and , also a tip from a previous member says to put petrolium jelly on the tube before installing the hose to make it easier, i did not do it and it was a b****, so i would also recommend that tip because it's a tight area. Also when you disconnect the coolant tubes you are going to have coolant running out of the hose, so be prepared with something to catch the coolant with or drain the radiator, i put cardboard under the rig and let it soak it up, or have a plug ready to put in or over the tube to stop all the coolant from running onto the ground, if it does don't forget to buy anti-freeze to replace what is lost. If you think you have to remove the throttle body? you don't, it's just hung up somewhere. There is also a wire that needs to be unplugged at the bottom and back of the plenum towards the middle, and another you can reach from the drivers side. Once those are removed you will be able to get the plenum off, another set of hands helps. Once off, clean the valve covers with mineral spirits or similar and get a pair of pliers or dykes to straighten the tabs before putting the gasket on, once on, use the dykes or pliers to clamp the tabs to the new gasket to hold it in place, no RTV gasket stuff needed, so don't buy it. I think that's all, don't forget to disconnect the battery before you start any project under the hood. If you get stuck ask the forum, they will help, or pm me since i just did this job. Oh and one more thing is you can buy the gasket set with or without the grommets, I chose to reuse the grommets that were factory because it had the metal washers and tightened down more evenly than the narrow grommets that i bought with the gaskets, your choice. Be sure to tighten the valve cover screws in a criss/cross pattern a little at a time to make sure it is tightend evenly, start the rig and check for leaks...Can't think of anything else but if someone has more tips please add to the post...Good luck and feel free to P.M. me if you have more questions. Just thought of something else while reading the post...I did not have to remove the EGR valve in order to remove the plenum on my '98 Pathfinder VG33E engine.


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