Ok, I trade my buddy out of this Truck... After researching I think it is an 82 model, I know it has a 2.2L Nissan z22 motor in it. I had to replace the carb w/ something from a salvage yard, however, It wasn't the same, but I got it on and I got the truck running... What I need is some diagram or schematic showing me how the vacuum lines are suppose to be ran so that I can try to get the truck running smooth. I have searched but haven't come up w/ anything... I will post some pictures later trying to show what I have done so far. Thanks so much I hope that we can figure this out!

well.. vac diagrams are hard to find/read... so my suggestion... assuming you live in a carb exempt area is remove them all except for the distributor advance

this is what i did and runs miles better than when they were all on

Amazing advise... May I ask for a little help w/ even that much... LOL I am new, I have come along ways just working on this thing but I don't know very much... Pictures, advise, are greatly appreciated! I know where the distributor advance is I think but where does hit come into the carb at?

Since you changed the carb, the location may be different. But generally it comes out in the middle of the carb if piped to the venturi or through the base of the carb.

yeah i can probably get a pic of the advance up but if the carb is different it may not help you

hey pez, i could also use this advise also! all my lines were disconnected and hanging when i got mine, and want to delete and plug everything, but i need to know where the va. adv. goes

i'll go out and take a pic now... be back in a few

ok... large view



and zoomed in

so whats your charcol canister look like? did you delete that too? i did in my d50, and jus left the line to the tank uncapped..... but theres more lines on this one compared to that and idk wat they go to...

and you must not have powersteering huh? hows that 4 ya?

yeah the charcoal canister is gone... i have the hose to the tank uncapped running out the side of the truck under the passenger door... still waiting on a k&n filter for safety that will be here monday

deleted the power steering... parking is slightly harder than the normal person would like but at speed its no big deal

Thanks for the help guys! I will have to post some pictures of my truck soon. Though might make most cringe.... Not much of it there other than cab. But anyway thanks a ton, very helpful...

Now I don't know where I should ask this but, anyone have a stock carb laying around that replaced w/ a weber? I just can't bring myself to spend that much on something so far I only have 50 dollars in... The carb I bought from salvage yard was off a similar model truck but really barely fit, could only use 2 adjacent studs off the intake... I assume that is what it is called bare w/ me this is my time to sink my teeth into a vehicle this far. I will post pictures of the carb I have to see if anyone even recognizes it... Maybe I could swap w/ some one or something.

are you trying to say its only held down by 2 bolts? i think you should jus take your time, go to a auto parts store, get some parts cleaner, and the rebuild kit for your stock carb($30) and do it yourself... jus make sure you follow directions, these little carbs are easy to do! and its good to learn how they work if you dont know already! might help to take some pics as you take it apart too! thats your best bet.... but some times you can get a used weber off ebay for about $100 and the rebuild for $30........ but i wouldnt use the carb you jus got...

Ok I went out and took a couple quick pictures... Bare in mind it is 2 in the morning here so they aren't the best quality...

The carb I replaced w/ is a bit newer I suspect had a more sophisticated electric choke I think than my old one had... And like I said was a little bigger...

The carb that came on this was completely junk both barrels or what ever they are called, the ports at the bottom where the things move where completely rusted shut... this thing had sit and got rained in w/ out any cover and now you can see how.. =) I got the carb I have now to see if I could even get this running... I plan on actually getting the correct parts down the road... But like I said.. I only have like $50 dollars in this thing so before I went to crazy I want to make sure it ran at all..

I did today do as Pezi said and hook up only the vacuum advance...

The parts store here was closed when I got around to it, so tomorrow I will go buy some of those little rubber caps to cap everything else off...

Anyone mind telling me what the charcol canister thing is that we keep refereing too?

haha ok, ic what your talking about now! but it is important it is bolted down completely, or you will have a horrible vac leak, and wont run quite right! i say run it lke this if it runs, and in the mean time look for another carb jus like you took off, or clean up the one you took off and rebuild it! haha you might need a dremell by the way it sounds tho! it doesnt look like your guna get stuck in traffic due to your carb anytime soon tho!!!

that thing is bad a$$!!

Would that work? Could I dremel the whole a little bit bigger so that all 4 studs fit?

Coming into this I have to step back ever so often and realize that I can think outside the box a bit... I am so afraid I am going to blow the thing up... but lol that is just my in experience I think.... If this thing was a computer I could tackle any problem it had.. but for vehicles right now... I am not so confident... I got some gasket sealer, since my local auto parts store didn't carry an intake gasket for the carb (Again guessing on the name) =)... And I just gobbed the stuff on so that I would try to not be leaking to much air...

the charcoal canister is a little black cylinder looking thing that sits at the very front of the truck right behind the driver side headlights... its an emissions component that takes fuel vapors in the tank and send them to the carb to be burnt off... you can remove it and just make sure that the tube going to the tank can still vent vapors so that you won't get vapor lock