Under half throttle

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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driftersilvia240sx
Posts: 79
Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 6:16 pm
Car: 350z (business car)
240sx (rb25)
civic eg (winter beater)

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Well guys took my Rb out finally. But i cannot go W.o.t without it breaking up. I do not have a tachometer but id guess breaks up 4500+ w.o.t. my best guess spark plug gap, intercooler piping but i did make sure they were tighter than a ticks a$$ still breaks :/ any suggestions???
thanks
Driftersilvia240sx


Darius
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Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
Location: Chicagoland

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Have you verified that your knock sensors are plugged in and wired up? Have you set the base ignition timing? I'm wondering if the stock ECU is seeing knock and pulling timing on you.

You have LS2 coils, so it shouldn't be breaking up due to misfire anymore unless your CAS is toast. Does it run smoothly at part throttle while cruising around?

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driftersilvia240sx
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Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 6:16 pm
Car: 350z (business car)
240sx (rb25)
civic eg (winter beater)

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Knock sensors are plugged in and wired correctly.
my timing is spot on 15-16* when warm, (when im cruising around at partial throttle she drives like it should...)
Im gonna try a boost leak test, and purchase a inovate afr gauge this coming pay check maybe i can figure something out.
Also i have replaced my coolant temp sensor did get raped 40$ from autozone, if when warm still has a rough start untill i unplug the sensor and crack throttle :/...which is due to timing correct???

Like you said Darius maybe the knock sensors are faulty how do i go about diagnosing them???

Driftersilvia240sx

Nesquick
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Car: Rb26 Kouki Silvia

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I would refrain from buying an Innovate wideband. I bought a LC-1 and it lasted a week before it started giving me wrong numbers. I bought a AEM one and havnt had a problem since. Just my $.02

robbie2883
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Car: 1998 RB25 Kouki

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Nesquick wrote:I would refrain from buying an Innovate wideband. I bought a LC-1 and it lasted a week before it started giving me wrong numbers. I bought a AEM one and havnt had a problem since. Just my $.02

you're doing it wrong then. innovate is one of the best and FASTEST reading widebands on the market. been using them for years on mine and customers cars without a single issue. and race proven since well before aem started making widebands.

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Carl H
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Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX SE RB30DET

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how long has this car been sitting?

240z4u
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Car: '95 Nissan 240SX

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I see what carl is getting at, and that's old fuel. If it only breaks up under boost I am guessing ignition problems.

Nesquick
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Car: Rb26 Kouki Silvia

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robbie2883 wrote:
Nesquick wrote:I would refrain from buying an Innovate wideband. I bought a LC-1 and it lasted a week before it started giving me wrong numbers. I bought a AEM one and havnt had a problem since. Just my $.02

you're doing it wrong then. innovate is one of the best and FASTEST reading widebands on the market. been using them for years on mine and customers cars without a single issue. and race proven since well before aem started making widebands.
obviously it wasnt hooked up wrong seeing as it did work the the first week -.-. It showed a constant 8.1 all thru the entire rev range. At that point there should be black smoke coming out the exhaust, there wasnt. Hooked the AEM one up the EXACT same way, not a problem.

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driftersilvia240sx
Posts: 79
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Car: 350z (business car)
240sx (rb25)
civic eg (winter beater)

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Carl H wrote:how long has this car been sitting?
The car itself has been sitting for two years but i did drain old fuel topped it with fresh 93.
ive said this before to it will idle great, drive great but if i tap the brakes lightly and quickly vacuum goes from -19 to -14,-15 at idle and sounds horrible i suspect a vacuum leak.

But on another note have you guys saw how cheap afr gauges are goin for now!!! adverage id say 160-180$...not bad at all

Boost leak test is in affect this weekend uuugghhh cant wait to drive this thing with no problems!!!

driftersilvia240sx

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driftersilvia240sx
Posts: 79
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Car: 350z (business car)
240sx (rb25)
civic eg (winter beater)

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Come to think of it when i was installing my coilpacks the ground wires are on the valve covers do you you think there not getting a good ground do to the fact of the gasket??? ill try putting the grounds in a different spot maybe itll help ...

RRRRB
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Car: 98 RB powered S14
Location: WA

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i have had an LC1 in my Honda for 5 years.. never had an issue besides a couple sensors.. I have also had one in my Nissan for about 2 years.. been great.

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driftersilvia240sx
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Car: 350z (business car)
240sx (rb25)
civic eg (winter beater)

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As far as the afr gauge im goin with the innovate Ive saw them work...And they work great

driftersilvia240sx

Darius
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driftersilvia240sx wrote:Come to think of it when i was installing my coilpacks the ground wires are on the valve covers do you you think there not getting a good ground do to the fact of the gasket??? ill try putting the grounds in a different spot maybe itll help ...
Ground the coils to the chassis! The valve cover isn't going to work well because there is a rubber gasket insulating it from the head. There are several tapped holes in the frame rail so just sand down to bare metal and find a bolt that fits. Done.

robbie2883
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Car: 1998 RB25 Kouki

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definitely ground the coils. completely eliminated any breakup i was having under higher boost. here's how i did mine. i need to get better pics of once the coil cover is on, but if you look towards the back of the second pic you'll see the 10 gauge wire. so i ran 14 gauge between each coil, then 10 from the back ground point to the igniter plate, then to ground point i have the rest of of the head (which is 4 gauge straight to frame)

Image
Image

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Carl H
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Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX SE RB30DET

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lol, the head is a pretty big ground point...

robbie2883
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redundancy....it's what i do best!!! LOL

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driftersilvia240sx
Posts: 79
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240sx (rb25)
civic eg (winter beater)

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i did relocate the ground it definatly improved but still happens Ahhhh!!!
But its ok its getting better the more attention i give the better she acts.
thanks a lot guys for the help so far.
Shes really close by chance anyone from MI???

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driftersilvia240sx
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240sx (rb25)
civic eg (winter beater)

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soon as im past 5-6 psi she breaks up...boost leak???

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driftersilvia240sx
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civic eg (winter beater)

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seems more i drive it the better shes getting hmmm

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driftersilvia240sx
Posts: 79
Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 6:16 pm
Car: 350z (business car)
240sx (rb25)
civic eg (winter beater)

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Well ladies closed throttle the tps is supposed to be at .5 ohms and w.o.t. is supposed to be at 4.5 ohms well i was getting .5 closed and 7.5 w.o.t. Now i just have to find a TPS :) lets hope this helps!!!
Once again thanks for all the help guys!!!
Driftersilvia240sx

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driftersilvia240sx
Posts: 79
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Car: 350z (business car)
240sx (rb25)
civic eg (winter beater)

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Hey guys just to clarify can i just bolt up a 1990-1995 tps from a q45 to the rb25det s1 TB without doing anything right???

Darius
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Yeah when I bought my Q45 TB, it had a TPS already on it and it plugged right into the same connector that is on the RB harness. Should be plug and play. Good find BTW! 7.5V is crazy high! No wonder it was freaking out on you. If it was horse racing everyone would be using whips except you. You'd have a tazer! :biggrin:

240z4u
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Car: '95 Nissan 240SX

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We're confusing ohms and voltage I think. That feed to the TPS is only 5VDC. If you've got more something else is wrong.

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driftersilvia240sx
Posts: 79
Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 6:16 pm
Car: 350z (business car)
240sx (rb25)
civic eg (winter beater)

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240z4u wrote:We're confusing ohms and voltage I think. That feed to the TPS is only 5VDC. If you've got more something else is wrong.
you know as far as ohms to volts in the fsm it says to test the sensor by ohms...granted seems like everyone on the internet is saying volts. i trusted the fsm im currently at work right now so i cant download the fsm and show you the page but i will get right on it soon as im outta here!!!

but yup ordering the sensor today should be in tomorrow or the next day!!!

lol great reference Darius lol

Darius
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Page EN-323 in the FSM says to check the power supply voltage at pin 1 on the TPS harness plug. It should be 5V as in voltage. Not ohms as in resistance. Pin 3 should be "grounded to the ground" (Camry commercial reference, anyone? anyone?)

And how are you measuring the voltage signal on pin 2 (middle) with the TPS plugged in? Are you pushing the multimeter probe into the back side of the plug? I'm confused. :confused:

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driftersilvia240sx
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civic eg (winter beater)

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well obtained a freddy intake and q45 tb for 180$!!! installed the tps still no luck doing the exact same thing ...but i did notice my battery is not getting charged as it should i do have a extra alternator and im just going to go purchase a new battery lets see if this helps ....
Soon as my electric fans kick on she runs like hell
So maybe thats it :/

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driftersilvia240sx
Posts: 79
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Car: 350z (business car)
240sx (rb25)
civic eg (winter beater)

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ok this is how i set my tps
1. car is off
2. unplugged sensor from harness
3.set multimeter to ohms
4.find the right pins on sensor (the one with pigtail)
5.set to .40 closed throttle done
Now am i right or do i do it some other way please explain

and my irratic idle was do to low voltage im getting barely 13.0 v at idle once fans kick on its at 12.5 and lopes like a p.o.s. one problem wooohoooo!!!!

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driftersilvia240sx
Posts: 79
Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 6:16 pm
Car: 350z (business car)
240sx (rb25)
civic eg (winter beater)

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well pretty sure i found the problem....im getting 12.8v-13.0v while chargine then once efans kick on im at 12.4-12.6.....Quest alternator here i come!!!


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