Ever since I got my car, the trunk release switch has not worked. This is a 1992.

I have replaced the switch in the glovebox with two different switches and neither have worked. I also replaced the switch in the door panel and that has not worked either. I went as far as replacing the trunk opener unit in the trunk and still no luck.

Decided today to dig under the dash oncer again....checked over all wiring and there are no wires cut anywhere. ALL FUSES ARE GOOD AND THE GAS DOOR OPENER WORKS JUST FINE. Just want to make that clear. The gas door opener DOES work, and the connector in the door panel DOES get power. HOWEVER, there is NO POWER in the single wire for the trunk release switch. Again, yes there is power to the gas door opener....no there is not power to the trunk release.

Checked over the wiring coming out of the door and under the drivers side dash....nothing is cut. Checked wiring to the switch in the glove box...again, nothing is cut. The connector for the switch in the glove box DOES NOT have power.


Now, the ONLY thing i can think of is POSSIBLY the anti-theft control module being shot and not allowing the trunk switch to receive power, or possibly the relay or even both. Ive never heard or read about this being the case on the forum BUT my security indicator light never blinks anymore. It USED TO but doesnt anymore. But the trunk switch never worked, even when the security light did blink....

Any thoughts on where to start?

I had same problem also on a 1992, connector under back seat was damaged. FSM has excellent wiring diagram and schematic, it was pretty easy to find with a test light.

Which connector was it? The only thing that makes me wonder is the fact that the switches are getting no power at all. They should be getting 12v if Im not mistaken

Do you have voltage (or ground? not sure what they're switching) at the glove compartment switch? Do you have (or have you had) an aftermarket alarm with a remote in the car? It's possible that the line was cut for the installation of that...

Heath

There is no power at the switch in the glovebox. The wires are uncut. There WAS an aftermarket alarm when I first got the car and it was faulty so i removed it. No wires were ever cut for the alarm. They used the splice connectors that crimp around the wire and then you use a spade inserted into the connector for the alarm wires. I see the two connectors around the yellow and purple wire at that switch but the wires are not cut.

Pulled out the anti theft module under the dash and there are a few wires that were cut and reconnected with butt connectors. All connections are solid so i dont know, and i dont think that would stop the switches from getting power.

Following is from 1992 Infi Q45 FSM:

Trunk unlock actuator is not controlled by secy system. Pink wire at trunk actuator is connected to battery through fuse 25, same fuse powers fuel door actuator, but through a different harness segment. yellow/purple wire at trunk actuator is grounded through cancel switch, by the trunk trunk open switch in driver door. Ground at trunk open switch in driver door is through fuel door side of same switch, ground to trunk actuator is only present when fuel door open is not selected.

So check for a constant +12 at pink wire at trunk actuator, if not present, check connector M219, third connector from left under rear seat, left side of car, the pink and yellow/purple wires are connected there. Pink and yellow/purple wires are in adjacent connector pins.

If you do have +12 at trunk actuator, ground the yellow/purple wire, actuator should fire.

yellow/purple runs to cancel switch in glove box, purple delivers (switched!) ground from door switch to cancel switch.

On my car, the pink at M219 was hot, but the corresponding pink in the tail harness wasn't, the connector was broken. I spliced around the connector.

Should be pretty easy to troubleshoot with a test light or meter.

Where can i download the 92 FSM? I have the 94 but it doesnt really pertain to anything electrically on the 92 since they have a BCM and I dont. I will check the connectors at the trunk and under the seat and see what I can come up with.

'Don't know about FSM download, I bought my FSM on paper. If you'd like I can scan or mail a copy of the trunk unlock page, but it's basically what I said above.

Ahh, I see. Alright well I am going to go out in a few and check everything out. Hopefully it is just the connector or something. We will see.

Didnt have 12v to the pink wire at the trunk, so I pulled the rear seat and took a look at the 3 connectors. There were two on top (black) and one on bottom (white).

The white connector had corrosion all over it. Dont know how the hell this happened, but I was checking the pink wire out on the tail side and it came out of the connector completely, as if it was never even pinned. I splied pink wire on the other side together and now had 12v at the trunk.

Connected the actuator and it worked right away. Pics:

Built on a Friday?

Infinitiguy19 wrote:Built on a Friday?

LMAO....dude, you have no idea. This car has been a f*** rollercoaster. But I have learned so much in the process, so it has been worth every second.

It's the same problem I had. More likely some kid spilled a coke in the back seat, it ran under the seat, and more or less shorted constant 12 volts to the body, which ate up the pin.

Now wasn't that easier than replacing all those parts?

'Glad it's working now.

Drake.

Yea easier, but I already replaced all the parts. I have spares now though, can never have enough of those. I wouldnt doubt that someone spilled something back there...the whole carpet and seats were trash when I got it. Replaced with minty fresh black leathers and carpet though.

BTW, you're welcome.

Drake57 wrote:BTW, you're welcome.

Thanks.....got too excited and forgot to thank you.

Not at all. It is much more convenient to punch a button than to fumble w keys, all good it's fixed.

I think that some of the rapid battery drain problems people mention w Q45 are attributable to this. I didn't realize it until you mentioned that the troublesome connector is on the bottom, and posted the corrosion photos, but it's nearly a certainty that water shorted the pink wire to the body at the connector, caused it to corrode and break. Impure water is conductive, not like a dead short, but enough to cause problems and drain. I suggested that this thread go to how to section.

Drake57 wrote:Not at all. It is much more convenient to punch a button than to fumble w keys, all good it's fixed.

I think that some of the rapid battery drain problems people mention w Q45 are attributable to this. I didn't realize it until you mentioned that the troublesome connector is on the bottom, and posted the corrosion photos, but it's nearly a certainty that water shorted the pink wire to the body at the connector, caused it to corrode and break. Impure water is conductive, not like a dead short, but enough to cause problems and drain. I suggested that this thread go to how to section.

If you look closely at the connector picture, you can see the top right pin is black/burnt...that was the pink wire. So I am sure whatever liquid seeped under the seat worked its magic and the end result is that.

I still have to go to the junk yard and cut that connector off (assuming it is good) and solder it in, just in case any of the other wires are bad as well.

Do you happen to know if the power antenna is controlled by this connector as well? Because mine has been stuck in the up position and has never worked since I got the car.

Power antenna uses a different harness, it's a permanent magnet motor - apply voltage, it runs one direction, reverse the voltage it runs the opposite direction. The motor is connected to the power antenna timer in the same harness, it looks to be in the same vicinity as the antenna motor.

So test the motor, it's powered by Blue/Black and Blue/White, it should run in both directions as above, I'd suspect it first of all.

At the antenna timer, in addition to the two antenna motor wires, you have Brown (+12 from ignsw on or start), blue (+12 from ign sw acc or on), Black (body ground), Yellow (constant +12), Blue/red (up/down signal from radio, not stated whether +12 or gnd means up or down).

Brown, Yellow, Blue are all fused, all route through Joint Connector (blue), and super multiple junction.

My guess is the antenna motor.

Thanks, I will test it out....it most likely is the antenna motor itself then.