Post by
Shtoops »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/shtoops-u265883.html
Sun Oct 22, 2017 12:47 pm
There is an apparent lack if info regarding installation of a fully active system in the M37. Hopefully this thread can provide some insight around what is possible and perhaps help me in the process.
Goal of the system: Sound Quality
Hardware:
Speaker...
HAT L1 Pro R2
HAT L3SE
HAT L6v2
HAT Clarus 12
Amps...
Zapco Z150.6 LX
Audison Voce Uno
DSP...
Zapco Z8 + Z8R
JL FiX82
DAC
Ifi iOne
Wiring:
0 Ga power
BJC RCAs
Let’s talk speaker locations..
The HAT L1Pro R2 was fabbed a into the sail panels
The L3SEs had no problem fitting into the stock midrange location
The L6v2s have an adapter made from the stock 6x9 mount.
A fair amount of CLD was applied to the door and door panel although im still working through rattles.
I’ve disconnected the center channel at the bose amp as well as the rear speakers.
Lets talk bose signal..
The center channel extended down to ~800hz .. as do the midrange. The midbass signal is crossed 80hz-800hz and the sub picks up below. Tweets pickup around 6khz.
Let me just say .. the 10 speaker bose amp absolutely butchers the signal. Insane amounts of EQ applied. The RTA signal response looks like a wooden roller coaster so many large peaks!! 6ms of TA per midbass .. 1.8ms of TA per midrange .. sub and midbass signals seem to have phase modification. it’s saddening and maddening at the same time.
I’ve employed the use of a JL FiX 82 as a means of correcting the post-bose amp signal .. i watched the corrections take place live on a RTA. It WILL give you a mostly flat signal to feed into a DSP. Unfortunately for me, my FiX82 isn’t retaining the De-EQ settings after a powercycle .. im in process of a warranty replacement. The FiX is feeding an optical signal to the DSP which will then feed my amps. You will be able to retain factory volume control/nav features. Im not noticing any ANC hums.
I attempted to tap into the low level signal pre-bose (black/red wire) at the bose amp. The signal is NOT variable from the headunit. All volume control takes place IN THE AMP!! grr.
For my purposes.. the signal isn’t as clean as i’d prefer. FWIW im chasing an SQ dragon. The FiX82 should be good enough for 99.9% of yall. With that said, im working on integrating an Ifi iOne DAC with BT to feed my processor. I can switch between sources and control master vol with my Z8-R remote which is mounted infront of the trac control buttons (it’s a PERFECT fit)
As far as amp installation goes ..
The 0ga power wire is running down the right side if the car .. no drilling/cutting required. The spare tire was removed to fit my amps. The Zapco Z160.6 LX is a surfboard but WILL fit in the wheel well if you cut the tire bracket. The Audison is large as well. Both amps fit without issue. 14ga wire was run through the front door molex to connect to the L3SE. Stock wiring was used for the midbass and tweet connections.
For sub duties, ive got my sub wired at 8ohms and im feeding it about 450w. I’m not sure the alternator can take 1300w at 2ohm + my 150wx6 front stage. A HO alt might be in order. Speaking of which...
Can we do the Big3 + HO alt in this car? Or will the ECU regulate my alternator output?
I’ll be looking to glass in a illusion audio C12XL sometime next year as well as build out a false floor.
I’ll add some pictures to this thread to show yall what the install looks like. I’ll also add some pictures that show the BOSE amp signal response..
I haven’t seen a full install on this forum yet .. hopefully this thread will give yall some inspiration!!