Truck no go. Starter clicks.

[Buzzman]

Well, all of a sudden my truck won't start. 2002 Pathy.
Did a search but not sure if I found a solution.
Drove it home, parked it. Came out an hour later, and all I got was a click.
Dash indicator lights are all on, as well as the radio, clock, etc., all functioning.
Turn the key, and the only lights that dim are the radio and the clock. Usually on startup, everything dims down a bit. Not so tonight.
Everything stays as bright as if I hadn't turned the key (except that radio and clock). Headlights don't dim, and I can even roll down my windows at full speed with the key turned to the start position. Just that annoying click is all I get.
Battery is 6 months old, as well as the alternator. It's not that.
Checked fuses, and banged on the starter solenoid, but still no go.
The only thing I can't find is a starter relay. I'm starting to think there isn't one. Can someone confirm?
I'm assuming at this point it's the starter, but before digging in my wallet for a tow truck, I'd like to be a little more sure.
I don't see myself replacing the starter in the street. Doesn't look easy.
As usual, thanks in advance.

[4xq]

It is the Park-Neutral relay that does that. It is in the fuse box behind the battery labeled NP on the box. SC-13 has your wiring diagram.

Unless you are a manual transmission -can't remember if yours is - then its SC-12 and they call it a clutch interlock relay.

If the click is coming from down by the starter, that is the solenoid kicking in. Maybe have someone turn the key while you get down and listen. In that case, its pretty much 100% it is the starter. But just for grins put a voltmeter on the battery - it should be 12.8 to 13.2 just sitting there. Two volts less would be a dead cell.

I did mine in the driveway last year. It was difficult getting to the terminal on the solenoid where the battery cable bolts up. I had to use a 1/4 drive socket with a 1 inch extension if I remember correctly. There is a rubber boot on the cable end which has to be worked out of the way. It was a little tricky getting the starter out between the frame and the engine - very little extra clearance..

But it is a doable project. I would want the right side of the truck on jackstands to get maneuvering room - I wouldn't do it with the truck on the ground. Advance rebuilt starters are lifetime replacement if you have one of those around.

Hope that helps!

[Buzzman]

I'll do those checks in the morning. Thanks.

[rgk]

Same thing happened to me. Replaced starter and all is well.

[Buzzman]

Well, did all the checks again, including swapping out the P/N relay, and same result.
I even hand cranked the engine a bit to see if maybe it would move the starter motor away from a flat spot. Same results.
Clicking noise is definitely the starter solenoid. Battery voltage is good.

Just came back from buying a new/re-manufactured starter.
Took it out of the box. Looks pretty simple.
I may follow 4qx advice/tips and try it myself.
Thanks guys. I'll keep you updated.

[rgk]

Bad connection at the solenoid. Common problem. You might be able to clean or rebuild the old one and have a spare.

Trickiest part is removing it and getting the new one in. It takes some maneuvering. Bolts and cables are pretty easy.

[4xq]

Well, you know, a couple of beers make the job go easier!

[Buzzman]

Just came in from crawling under the truck and taking another look.
Looking at the new starter I bought, it appears there are only 2 bolts holding it in.
Being in Canada and driving on salty winter roads, the bolts are seriously rusted under there.
I soaked them in penetrating oil and will re-visit in the morning.
Do either of you guys know by chance what size the bolt heads are?
I might still just have it towed to my local garage (only 2 miles away), and get them to fight with it.

I hate working on a rusty vehicle.
(I did the brakes on my 2006 Altima last month, and the caliper bracket bolts, sliders etc., were almost seized. Needed a pry bar to break them loose.
The rotors were stuck to the ends of the axles, and I had to take a 5 pound hammer to them to knock them off.)

BTW, how come on every car show on TV, bolts and screws etc., just come right out, no matter how old the car is?

[atraudes]

TV magic, my good man

[rgk]

I believe the bolt heads holding the starter in place are 13mm and the nuts holding the wires are 12mm. I removed the wires first to avoid damaging them during removal. The rubber dust boot atop the main positive lead may split as you remove it to gain access to the nut.

There isn't a lot of room to work in there for sure. I used a standard size 3/8 wrench to break the bolts free. It wasn't easy because there wasn't a lot of room for leverage, but one of the small ways I lucked out with my truck is that not too many of the bolts on it are frozen or that difficult to unfasten.

It was far more difficult to remove the old starter and insert the new one through that small entry way. It's an awkward shape, and holding it up while trying to maneuver it into its hole wore out my arms quick. Luckily I'm thin and fit under the truck without a problem.

[4xq]

"BTW, how come on every car show on TV, bolts and screws etc., just come right out, no matter how old the car is?"

Dorothy and the Land of OZ just flashed before my eyes

[Buzzman]

TV magic, my good man

Good one.
Need a another laugh?, google "nailed it pics". Hilarious.

[Buzzman]

"BTW, how come on every car show on TV, bolts and screws etc., just come right out, no matter how old the car is?"

Dorothy and the Land of OZ just flashed before my eyes

Lol.

One of my favourite shows is Wheeler Dealers.
The guy (mechanic Edd China) does amazing stuff, but never has trouble taking apart 30 year old cars.
I'd love to see a show made in Canada where they have to fix a 15 year old Chevy Cavalier.

Unrelated news: I when I did the brake job on my 2006 Altima, I saw a 12 inch gash/split under the front passenger side, in the floor pan. Rust.
One more winter, and I'll have a Fred Flintstone car.
I took it to Nissan to get their take on it, and the guy said that the floor pan rusting out on these things is a known issue.
Same thing happens to Maxima's apparently.
Will Nissan do anything about it or give a break on repairs? Of course not.
Estimate of repair is $1,500.00. The car is 9 years old for Pete's sake.
They said not to bother and to just take it to an independent shop and have them cut out and patch the floor.That's what I'm going to have to do.
I have vowed not to buy another Nissan ever again.

[4xq]

I think I saw somewhere (hows that for vague - I could be a politician) that those cars are disassembled by staff prior to the show, and put back together for the taping. Then the star looks like a pro - nothing slows him down.

[Buzzman]

I think I saw somewhere (hows that for vague - I could be a politician) that those cars are disassembled by staff prior to the show, and put back together for the taping. Then the star looks like a pro - nothing slows him down.

Something like this doesn't surprise me in the least.
Let's face it, reality shows are anything but real.
Shows like Storage Wars, Pawn Stars, American Pickers, etc., are either all out faked, or set up and scripted, or both.

[Buzzman]

Update: Truck fixed. It was the starter for sure.
Ended up paying my local mechanic an hour's labour to change it out.
I couldn't do it lying on my back out in the street.
Mechanic said it was a PIA job. 13 years of Canadian rust. Gotta love it.
Not sure how many more winters this thing will survive. The last two years have really taken a toll on the Pathfinder.
I'm actively looking around for an alternative.

[4xq]

Well, just POR-15 the he** out of the underside of it. That will get you a couple - three more years.

There is a time tho if you have the rust thing they have to go bye-bye.