when I turn the key to "on" position, I hear a noise kinda like wood hitting metal from the throttle body area (it only happens once everytime I put it in "on" position, with a electrical buzzing noise, I just got done changing the knock sensors again and 2 more FI, any thoughts?, I haven't actually tried starting the car, I don't wanna mess anything up.

ok I started the car only for 4 seconds, and the car started at 2000 rpm, then decrease while the "needle" was jumping up and down (it was doing both, jumping up and down and decreasing rpm's), and the clicking noise clicked fast when it started at 2000 rpm and the clicked slower and slower as the rpm's decreased then I turned the car off (all happened within the 4 seconds)

the clicking noise resembles the click of the "wheel of fortune" wheel but a little crisper, and there was faint smoke from around the tire areas, could have been exhaust fumes, I started it in a closed garage.

btw, if your gonna say I F***ed up big time go ahead.....I'm 18, I'm suppose to f*** up big time and learn from it.

ok smoke was coming from engine bay area, it wasn't a thick cloud of white smoke, im guessing valve cover gasket, noise went away when I started the car again, but the car wasn't "smooth" and no CEL light, I checked the oil and for some reason it was low, so I added in the rest of the 7th bottle from my last oil change, and I noticed small air bubbles on the dipstick when checking the oil.

I left out the hose by the EGR valve on accident, put it back on, no difference, btw, I substituted a fuel hose for the brake booster line, my brake booster like was rock hard and would not go back on, so I substituted for a fuel line, could that be the idling issue? and what about the buzzing noise from the back of the engine in "on" position?, also after I reattached the hose and started the car,nothing changed and I turned the car off and I looked under the hood in the Throttle body/EGR valve area, there was a slow ticking noise

ok I drove it around the block a few times, and alot alot alot of white smoke from the tail pipe, and when I pulled up to the drive way I saw heavy heavy smoke coming from the hood with a sizzling sound for a second (and that sound came twice), while driving it felt fine, except when I let off the gas and let it idle in gear, the needle or bouncing up and down and making the car buck forward (in drive of course) all gears gave me a rough idle or a bouncy idle. as I only put it in "park" and "reverse" and "drive", also there was a coolant leak in the valley, towards the water pump area directly below injector #1, I think that is what caused the sizzling and smoking. haha I'v finally found the perfect nick name for my Q, "Smokey"

weird noise in throttle body area came back at idle regardless in what gear the car was in

Does your car have TCS? I'm wondering if it's the TCS throttle actuator?

You've got a lot going on here...

As far as the clicking, ditto on the TCS thought. The ticking that changed with idle speed sounds like HLA (lifter) noise - it will probably go away. Low on oil to the point that you need to add a 7th quart is concerning if your last oil change was recent. I'd check that again when it's been sitting for a while. Although the manual says 6.something quarts for a full fill, the factory later revised that with 6.0 quarts.

When you replaced your brake booster line with fuel hose did you reinstall the check valve (and in the right direction)? If not, you could be putting a lot of unmetered air into the intake from the brake booster, especially when you press the brakes. I'd replace that hose with something meant for brake booster hose before you drive the car much.

White smoke on a first run in winter doesn't concern me too much as long as it doesn't have a really sweet smell. The muffler holds a lot of moisture.

Heath

I need to change my valve cover gaskets, I have brand new OEM gaskets, I'm just waiting for the weekend to get some time, also I'm gonna go ahead and buy a new brake booster check valve, and a brake booster hose. also I did a oil change around a 1000 miles ago and its already brownish honey color.

I do have TCS, but the tcs switch between the heated seats switch doesn't work

I only installed the fuel hose on the second have of the check valve, going straight to the plenum, the first have is still the "rock hard" brake booster line I didn't mess with.

the engine is smoking ALOT, and there is antifreeze dripping somewhere in the valley, I changed the hose there and put new RTV when changing the knock sensors, it is a slight sweetish smell. where is this antifreeze coming from? I remember when changing the knock sensors, it would get flooded again with antifreeze when the hoses were clamped tight and bots where bolted tightly with RTV.

oh and also after 3 minutes of driving in the neighborhood, it started smoking and buzzing

is it safe to drive?

ok I started the car again and waited untill the smoking started, and turned the car off and popped the hood, and it was coming from the coolant hose by the EGR valve that was dripping all the way down the side onto the exhaust manifold. I must have forgotten to put the clamp back on or something, I'll take the EGR valve off and see if the hose is broken, and I noticed my thermostat is acting up, like I know the engine is hot and at operating temp, but it would still show its cold with the needle all the way down,

those of you that read my post on the "injector ohms" you whould know that I had to cut the rubber hose to get that "T" bend off the change the knock sensors, the new one arrived yesterday but I had already cut a radiator hose from autozone which was slightly bigger, I'm gonna open the plenum again and change it.

ok I went back to the basics and checked all fluids, the transmission oil was a little dark, and I read somewhere that bad transmission oil and filter can cause a high rev. to the point where I started it in nuteral, and put it in drive and the back tires spin slightly. (I actually had a few hoses that I didn't reattach that I did, no more smoking problem), I hope changing the transmission fluid will fix it.

94Q45Beast wrote: ok I drove it around the block a few times, and a lot of white smoke from the tail pipe.....

If you're still getting white smoke out of the tailpipe I'd be concerned that one of the injectors you replaced is not seated properly and fuel is leaking past a FI lower o-ring. Do a fuel pressure bleed down check before reinstalling the plenum so you don't have to remove it a third time. The fuel rail should hold pressure without dropping.

the back isn't smoking anymore, It just happens that one time and cleared up after I parked it that night. I made shure the o rings seated properly

could it be that I didn't connect the throttle cables back right. also could the IAC be the culprit? I"m afraid to shift gear in reverse and have the car jump back a little then put it in nuteral in the high rev, and then Drive where the car will jump forward.

ok, I cleaned the IAC, and no change, so I decided to start the car in Neutral, and my Q stalled, I haven't done a transmission flush yet, but the transmission oil is still good

On the coolant temperature, check your temp sensors and be sure they're connected. You can check the sensors with an ohm meter too.

where is that.

haha it was that red plugh lookin thing on the T I cut to replace knock sensors....ugh, do I have to remove the plenum, if so or not, how many ohms should it read.

soooo....

ok I'll just install a new coolant Temp Sensor. but harness wiring is weird, like its wraped around the knock sensor harness wiring, also both knock sensors are going into one "plug" and looks like 1 harness with a split end. fyi I didn't change the knock sensors harness.

I installed the new coolant temp sensor...the old one looked like it was fished out of the Titanic..car ran great, no more stalling. but still I had a high idle at 2000 rpm in "Park" and "neutral" positions. when I ran the car for a while the idle dropped to 1500 rpm. in "reverse" or "drive", the car idled at 700 - 1000 rpm, also in first or second gear..there is no engine braking, like if I start driving and take it up to 2000 rpm, it stays there until I hit the brakes. btw. I changed the transmission fluid, all I did was open the drain bolt and measured how much came out and poured the same amount of fresh oil back in. I used Valvoline Max Life Dex/Merc automatic transmission fluid from autozone, on the back it said it could be used for Infiniti/Nissan Matic D, and that's what the dealership told me I needed, atf Matic D, the dealership was selling each quart for 20 bucks. this morning when I was driving the CEL light came on, and now I went to check for codes and I'm getting code 55, whats going on?

for gods sake does anyone have a answer to this..this car is my only way of going to school and back.

94Q45Beast wrote:.....this morning when I was driving the CEL light came on, and now I went to check for codes and I'm getting code 55, whats going on?

I think you turned the screw on the back of the ECU one too many times before reading the codes. You need to start with the screw in the full CCW position. The first time you turn it fully CW and then fully CCW it reads the codes and flashes the red light. The second time you rotate CW/CCW it clears the codes and the flashing stops. If you do it a third time it will flash code 55. Do it a fourth time and your back to a steady red light. If you haven't already, when your done reading the code turn the screw CW/CCW until the light does not flash, then drive until the CEL comes on, then come back and read the codes turning the screw CW/CCW only once.

If your idle was normal before changing the knock sensors I'd say you've left a vacuum hose disconnected, have a broken hose or connected one to the wrong place. Changing KS should not have affected the idle,

I should add that you need to wail 2-3 seconds after turning the screw CW before turning it back CCW to read the codes.

infiniti-ecu-codes-and-how-to-check-them-t60332.html

I did it only once, and when I put the car in "on" position to check codes it did not show a CEL light anymore. and I went to go run some important errands and the CEL came back after a while of driving...id say about 10-15 min. and I turned the car off when I got home. went in to grab a screw driver(hardly took a minute or two)....and same thing happened, I put the car in "on" position, and turned it CW, then CCW. and code 55, with no CEL light again.

yeah I did wait a minute or 2