Trials of buying a used Pathfinder

[Slumpert]

So my "New" to me 1997 Pathfinder LE with 188,000 miles that I bought as a daily driver for my Daughter this month has been a rough start but I seem to be making progress.

Driving light replaced with ebay part $40
Two new washer pumps $35 (generic had to splice harness)
Corner marker $35
New rear brake, turn,reverse lamps $12 (only one was burnt out but figured others were due to die anytime)
New windshield + wipers $ 270
P1447 code ( came up after first week) this forum and trip to 4 yes 4 U-Pull lots to find a Pathfinder for canister that doesn't make noise + $12

2/25/13 - P0325 issue solved with new sensor $120, cheap harness $7, and $1 for M6 - 30mm bolt and 7mm lockwasher.

I have recieved first box of new parts from Nissanpartzone (OMG trying to buy a waterpump from there drove me crazy as each model was discontinued yet allowed me to order it) $350

I recieved the Bosch waterpump from RockAuto $59

Ordered more parts from Nissanparts as when I replace the timing /waterpump I will be replacing the radiator due to small leak in the filler neck.


Still to do, install all the parts when they finally come in ( hopefully next week)

In reseaching my p1447, I also seem to need new knock sensor so I might just do the bypass on the mainifold.

Front & Rear brakes, Struts & shocks, rear glass supports, and to find a tool kit so that at least a roadside tire change can be done.. I found the jack and long bar, but I need the rest.

[yngw13]

I bought my 01 in Oct 2011 @130k miles...currently have 134k miles (not a daily D)
>installed new brake pads ($8 part for the set on sale before shipping @rockauto "thermoquiets)
>greased the bearings (grease+bearings+races > but only used 1 bearing replacement out of 2 inners I ordered)
>exhaust muffler rusted out > replaced with cherry bomb turbo (didnt remove the resonators) ($350 parts labor)
>installed MOOG rear coils ($50 part) + had to buy spring compressors ($40 shipped Amazon)
>installed a new battery (everstart...was a free replacement from an old battery on another car >>>>FREE)

///so far knock on wood ...no Major repairs...I failed to inspect the exhaust when I got it used...it was RUSTED OUT BAD like it was dipped in salt water for the life of the muffler...hehe


thanks for the heads up...Im sure ppl will appreciate your inputs!!!

[Chuck Tribolet]

Slumpert: When looking for the tools, you also need to find the special spark plug socket. There's one
plug on that vintage that needs a special toool.

Chuck

[Slumpert]

Thanks for the heads up on the spark plug..

I tried everything in the "book" to reset the Engine Light by doing the on-stomp stomp wait process and finally I just told my daughter to drive it and let me know if the light goes out.
Seeing as the MAF sensor had "junkyard" scribbles on it, I wonder if my TPS sensor is broken or not "aligned" to register wide open correctly maybe.

[fastpakr]

If you have access to an Android phone/tablet etc with bluetooth, you can check and reset the SES light as well as read all kinds of useful info off the computer. All you need is a $15 ELM327 scanner/transmitter like this and the Torque Pro app (available for the Android Market for $5.

[Slumpert]

So today I went to the junkyard to see if I could grab a knock sensor easily since when I got my code read for the evap system the second time, the O'rielly guy showed me I also had the infamous P0325 error.

The pathfinders I remembed that already had their intakes torn off turned out to be the newer engine and I could not find where those dastardly sensors are. I found a Mercury villiager from 1999 that had the same VG engine and down in the valley was the knock sensor.. It was a rusted out mess.

So I bought the sensor locally.. And turns out the previous owner had already hacked into the harness and the correct wires had already been cut, but they were just taped back up..

I can only imagine they got a bad sensor or they wired it to the wrong wire and just gave up trying to fix it.

Had some problems with the cheap connector I bought, but finally was able to get a fresh reset, restart and no more code!!

I got on it for a burst and it actually did seem to kick harder on the downshift.. I didn't push it as I still need to change out the timing belt before I can sleep in peace.

[Slumpert]

Okay all the parts I ordered for the waterpump/timingbelt/radiator/cap rotor/ and all new belts and hoses



Almost smells like a new car in my kitchen atm... /smile

Now to get the tools needed for this.

[PathyProject]

Okay all the parts I ordered for the waterpump/timingbelt/radiator/cap rotor/ and all new belts and hoses



Almost smells like a new car in my kitchen atm... /smile

Now to get the tools needed for this.

It gonna run like a new car once you have all that installed. I bought my 97 Pathfinder with 145,000 miles on it, and I just found out from carfax that the odometer was messed with. It originally had 257,000 miles on it before the odometer was switched back. I'd say it has about 290,000 now, and it has never let me down. The only problem I had with it that left me on the side of the road, was when the waterpump went out. It still ran and everything, but it wasn't safe to drive. Other then that, no problems whatsoever. There have been minor problems that I have fixed, but nothing that was extremely severe. Of the nearly two years of me owning my vehicle I have done the following to it.

Replaced Waterpump
Replaced Timing Belt
Replaced Transmission Mount
Replaced Rear Control Arm Bushings with Polyurethane Bushings
Replaced Front Pads, Rotors and Calipers
Replaced Fuel Filter
Replaced Idler Pulley and Tensioner Pulley
Replaced all belts
Replaced Spark Plugs and Wires

Also of course I do regular oil changes and change my air filter on a regular basis. I also cleaned my throttle body twice and my mass airflow sensor as well.

I think if I keep taking care of my Pathy it will last another 200K easily.

[Slumpert]

Just finished up the waterpump/belt repairs.. Took me about 16 hours total.

Bigegst hassle.... Power Stearing pump... only being able to move the bolt 1/6 turn while barely holding the wrench with fingertips was crazy.

cursing a loud momment.. That little bypass hose.. Finally figured out I could move both clamps far below and just mad wrestling to get that bend on.

Surprises along the way... Seems the PO had broken the oil-pump at the very bottom timing cover bolt.. Nothing I could really do about it, but actually took the broken piece off with dremel as it wa so badly cross threaded.

Seems the PO tried using the jaw type puller on the harmonic balancer (crankpully) and cracked a bit off both the waterpump and the power stearing hubs. I smoothed the edges with the dremel and left it as is since I was not prepared to buy a new one yet.

The no friggen way momment... When the crank pulley (which fought me all the way off) just slid right on for re-assembly. Litterally just shocked me as it clunked all the way with me barely pushing it.

She started right up and seemed fine for about 30 sec then I turned on the A/C and heard belt squeal and then the engine seemed to be surging while idleing even with ac back off.. That lasted for few sec before shut it down. Checked everything again and restarted and she seems 100% normal except much quieter without that failing waterpump sounds

[Slumpert]

I replaced the plugs, wires, and flushed the transmission yesterday.

Installed plugs were Autolife which tells me the PO had at least replaced them once..

Plug number 6.... Yea that was the kind of fun you just don't see everyday.

After taking it for a spin I tested the return vs supply radiator hoses and the return hose was nice and warm.. Previously the return hose was cold even when the outlet was hot as hell.

In the process I noticed the hose clamp for the lower rad looked weird.. I touched it and realized I never tightened it (deerp) I guess I did a really good job cleaning the connecting pipe since that hose was not leaking without a clamp...

She still had died on my daughter in traffic ( just dies when idleing sometimes) and I hoped that it was fixed of that when I cleaned the MAF sensor weeks ago.

I saw on You-Tube too look for leaks on intake and realized the clamps between the intake elbow and the accordian tube were completely loose.. I never touched those as I just disconnected at the intake and unclippled the airbox to remove everything when I was working on it.. (Air filter top makes a nice place to store tools on vs. battery)

Seeing those junkyard marks on my MAF makes me wonder if I should just get a new one since I am still likely running on a 15yr old MAF.

Next is to install a magfine filter and then shocks struts... This thing bounces around pretty badly and seeing the yuck that came out in the flush makes me want to do what I can.

[Slumpert]

Replaced the fuel filter (old one litterally had black colored fuel in it.) put a bottle of the Techron cleaner and full tank of gas in it. My daughter took 2 weeks to drive 186 miles and when I filled it up it took 15.3 gallons so we are just getting 12.1 MPG

If replacing the MAF and O2sensors will get me to 13mpg, that would be a savings $186 per 8,000 miles.. or so my speadsheet skills tell me..

Recieved the Magfine and I bought full set of Gabriel shocks and thier ready struts. Picked up the 8 new nuts from the dealership, next post should have pictures!

[Slumpert]

Installed the shocks and struts..

Truck popped P0100 code yesterday morning so I ordered the Maxima MAF today $108 from courtesy parts with shipping + tax.

It has been getting crappy gas mileage and the current one has "junkyard" paint markings on it anyways.

I am supposed to replace the whole tube right, not just the sensor inside it since their different?

[Towncivilian]

The Maxima MAF is for the VQ35DE engine only as far as I know.

[Slumpert]

/smack...... Okay researched it further and seems that MAF definately won't fit. Heck my Pathfinder uses a different MAF than models made 3 months later even.

Thank you very much Town.......

I ordered http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Hitachi ... 2328a0cec3

Now to see just "How" genuine that really is for 1/2 price everyone else has Hitachi.. Details will follow when I get it.

[Slumpert]

First time in long time eBay surprised me.. I recieved the MAF yesterday ( yes took awhile) but it was in a Nissan bubble pack with Nissan part# sticker on it.. Brand new OEM part was not what I expected!!!

Changed it out and drove it around for just a bit.. Seemed to work just fine.. Hopefully the enging light will go off after driving it for awhile.

[jrgilbert]

Thank you for your story. I just bought a 2001 Pathfinder 174k miles last week. I have read some bad stuff about the 2001. I am in no way a mechanic and not nearly as handy as you sound. I am bracing myself. Already out of the gate the car lot I bought it from had to get a new idle thingy that had to be programmed at the dealer. Other than that it runs wonderfully and looks great.

[Slumpert]

Check engine light turned off yesterday, guess the new MAF sensor did the trick.

The lock for the gas lid broke on Sunday, took me awhile to find it on the parts diagram due to it being looped in with "rear door".

Ordered it from local dealer and just installed it. FYI you need to pull off the interior lower panel to access it, not from the wheel well.
(78826-01LOA) $23.00