Transmission will not go in "D" when cold

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chipahoy
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In the morning when i first start my car, the transmission does nothing when i put it in "D." I have to start off in "2" or "L" then once i get moving manually move it to the "D" position. Once the car warms up its fine. Any ideas?


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elwesso
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Seems like a common problem with many older trans. If your fluid is ok I'd just stick with what your doing, it doesn't seem like its a sign if immediate failure.

How many miles on the car?

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chipahoy
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242,000

qship96
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The problem is commonly called "morning sickness" in the automotive world. Usually caused by old, worn internal seals inside transmission allowing the ATF to flow past seals and therefore prevent the proper pressures from developing that are needed to make the transmission operate normally. When the ATF warms up, the seals swell a little,allowing proper pressure and trans works as designed. Only proper way to repair is to rebuild transmission, although some have experienced some benefit from adding additives to the fluid- wont totally "fix" the problem, but may shorten the amount of time before car actually moves in the morning.

This condition is pretty common on older GM vehicles, had a co-worker that had a 1994 Buick le Sabre with the issue, he would sit and idle for 10-15 minutes before car would move......he did this daily for over a year before finally trading it in, so it is NOT an immediate death type issue,but rather a warning to start saving for a transmission or different car.

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chipahoy
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But that wouldn't explain why when you put it in "2" or "L" its no problem. its something to do with the electronics. if it were the worn seals scenario the car wouldn't move in any gear...

qship96
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take it to the Infiniti dealer and get a accurate diagnosis and estimate.If it is an electrical problem,they should easily be able to figure it out, though at 242K, my bet it is much more than that.

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chipahoy
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no thanks, those guys make more than my physician. that's why i am using this forum, to find out what it might be....will post when i find the solution.

2brokey
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hey there! Well, I have an RE4R03a in my '91 that does the same thing as well when cold. It will in fact live like that, and it is related to the "Morning Sickness" syndrome stated above. You've got a fair amount of miles on that transmission - congratulations! Here's the deal - if you have been maintaining that transmission or accurately know it's history, and know the fluid has been serviced on some kind of semi-regular maintenance plan, then try changing the fluid. Make sure you use Nissan Matic-J or something equivalent. Really, from personal experience, the Matic-J is best, and provides the best properties for the Jatco trans (anything made specifically for Jatco transmissions, which use a Synthetic ATF similar to Ford Mercon V should be OK, but I am not providing you a warranty). Change your filter when doing this. Clean the pan nicely. I also like using Lucas Transmission additive. If the maintenance has been lacking, I would be leary of just changing the oil (like on my '91 with burnt ATF). If your ATF is looking kinda dark and smells burnt, you are in this category. If you are feeling brave, try changing it a little at a time and add a pressure-enhancing additive. This has worked for me twice. Three times of just flushing a beaten-up automatic and running it on new fluid gave me the result of a weird feeling transmission the soon started slipping, and then eventually dying. Of course, don't take only my advice and opinion and best of luck! Automatics are pretty sensitive to fluid conditions, so make sure you don't do the wrong things: Don't underfill, don't overfill, don't mix types, don't use the wrong stuff. I've done everything wrong at least once in life, experienced the fall-out, and learned a lesson enough times that I can atleast advise you well on that. (...but a lot of times I was trying to kill the auto anyway so I have an excuse for a manual swap!)

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Towncivilian
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I agree with the above post regarding changing the fluid, except for the use of Lucas Transmission additive. Why upset Nissan's careful formulation of their Matic J fluid with some unknown gorilla snot "miracle in a bottle"?

Installation of a Magnefine in-line transmission filter on the transmission cooler return line is also highly recommended because the in-pan filter on many transmissions does not filter below somewhere around 60 microns, and is more like a rock strainer than a true filter. The Magnefine contains a very strong magnet to catch all ferrous wear material, and filtering media in the range of 35 microns to catch anything non-ferrous. Install one on the power steering return line too to significantly prolong the usable life of the power steering fluid. I'm fairly certain that a 3/8" Magnefine will fit both the transmission and power steering hoses on your Q45. See a Magnefine filter in use for 23,000 miles opened here. The transmission cooler return line is located on the driver side (according to NTB00-056b - 1988 AND LATER NISSAN VEHICLES AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER CLEANING), and the power steering return hose is probably the smaller tube on the side of the power steering fluid reservior.

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chipahoy
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i see what your saying, but if it were morning sickness and related, how would the transmission differentiate between "D," "2," or "L?" it runs and shifts fine. I will try changing the fluid and filter, friend suggested Mobil 1 Dextron ATF. Will post again after the fluid change. Thanks for all the great suggestions.

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Infinitiguy19
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When the Trans if fully warm can you replicate the problem?

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chipahoy wrote:i see what your saying, but if it were morning sickness and related, how would the transmission differentiate between "D," "2," or "L?" it runs and shifts fine. I will try changing the fluid and filter, friend suggested Mobil 1 Dextron ATF. Will post again after the fluid change. Thanks for all the great suggestions.
Mobil 1 synthetic ATF is an excellent choice. Being a synthetic fluid, it has better cold weather performance and will lower the transmission's operating temperature somewhat, which is a good thing. Just a nitpick, the fluid is called "Dexron", not "Dextron".

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chipahoy
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thank you so much. my fingers aren't as nimble as they use to be. appreciate the correction to dexron...regards, carl snyder

2brokey
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chipahoy wrote:i see what your saying, but if it were morning sickness and related, how would the transmission differentiate between "D," "2," or "L?" it runs and shifts fine. I will try changing the fluid and filter, friend suggested Mobil 1 Dextron ATF. Will post again after the fluid change. Thanks for all the great suggestions.
Well, it's all theory really. You won't know for sure unless you scientifically test everything according to the FSM, but looking at that section is a real turn-off to me personally. Usually what it boils down to for a transmission that works just fine when warm is dirt in the system - have it be the valve body, solenoids, etc. but usually you find yourself in trouble once you start getting too far into that. Why I would definitely call it "morning sickness" whether it be the classic definition or not is it seems to happen only when the transmission has cooled down in my situation and yours probably as well. I used to only get the problem if I let the car sit overnight in the summer or a few hours in winter (being that it's colder). As for the "gorilla-snot", honestly I am less and less in love with it. It's a temporary band-aid.

qship96
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Sure, change the fluid, always a good thing to do,and probably if it had been changed regularly from brand new,you would not be having this issue- BUT at this point,I would not waste the money on expensive synthetic ATF, find a case of cheap dexron 3 compatable ATF and give it a try......almost 99.9% it will not fix the issue,so no need to waste $$$$ on top notch ATF at this point, the wear and damage has already taken place, and no fancy atf will "fix" it. Put the difference you save in ATF towards the one hour diagnostic charge a professional will charge to accurately tell you the exact problem and solution.Or guess and throw parts at it yourself, which gets mighty expensive,quick.

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chipahoy
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thanks for the advice. however, based on the problem i am experiencing, if you read my post, its not a fluid related issue. no problem putting it in 2 or L when its cold, just D. i believe its an electrical issue, perhaps the solenoid that engages the transmission.

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Infinitiguy19
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Does your Q45 have a diagnostic you can perfom to see if all electircal circuits are functioning?

I don't care enough to look myself.

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chipahoy
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Thank you for all the great advice. I stand corrected. It was a fluid related issue. Yesterday, i changed the ATF, replacing the Wal Mart brand Dexron with Mobil 1 synthetic. While I only replaced the 4 quarts in the pan, the tranny went into "D" this morning after a millisecond delay. I plan on changing it again two or three more times to get most of the old stuff out. Word to the wise, don't use Wal Mart ATF in your precision automobiles...while the Mobil1Synthetic ATF is expensive ($8 a quart from Auto Barn, the cheapest I found), its a lot cheaper than a transmission rebuild/replacement.

KJM
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Hello. I have a 2001 Nissan Altima, 163K miles, with the EXACT same problem. Did not go into drive in the morning when cold, and started happening more frequently, but once in gear it ran fine. Changing the trans fluid was a temporary solution, but it started not going into drive again in the mornings. Upon further research, I narrowed my focus to the transmission line pressure solenoid valve that is known to get clogged with debris, and changing fluid alone is not enough to clean it out. The solenoid is accessible by dropping the transmission fluid pan, and as it turns out, there are two small holes of the side of the solenoid. I sprayed carborator cleaner into each hole on the side of the solenoid and black debris poured out for a few seconds and then the carborator cleaner flowed clear. This was a simple fix and has completely solved the problem. A few squirts of carborator cleaner and a transmission fluid change solved the issue - it now goes into gear immediately, and at all temperatures. No need for a new transmission like most of the mechanics were telling me. I hope this helps others who have the same problem.

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:welcome: to NICO KGM! I would suggest posting this in the Altima forum, where it'll reach more people with your specific transmission... good to know either way though.

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chipahoy
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Try using mobil one synthetic atf. Makes all the difference in the world. You may have to change it two or three times to get all the old atf out, but it's worth it. Clean the pan throuroughy and inspect the fluid for greyness and shavings. make sure the magnet is there too and it's clean. Peen the bolt holes in the fluid pan before you reassemble to insure a good fit.

rschelling
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Dear Members:

I too am experiencing the morning sickness in my 2007 Nissan Murano Sl AWD ( Standard Transmission, NON CVT). The whole thing began when I actually changed the fluid at the dealership. Ive been driving the car starting it in 1 then gradually increasing to D, once in D no problems until cooled down.
I'm planning on importing the Mobile 1 Synt ATF to see if it make any difference. I mean importing because I live in Ecuador, South America. :mike

Any other ideas, please let me know, thanks

rschelling
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Well, I ended up rebuilding the transmission, getting the master kit and cleaning and cleaning. Had to do some kind of work in the torque converter because it was worn. The total labor was $1500 including the master kit and the rebuilt of the converter. Took 7 days. The transmission now shifts OK, cold, hot, drives OK. Of the damage I could say the brake band was worn, the seals too and hydraulic solenoids stuck, the discs were OK for the milleage. Good luck everyone.

rebelx715
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KJM wrote:
Sat Jul 18, 2015 11:56 am
Hello. I have a 2001 Nissan Altima, 163K miles, with the EXACT same problem. Did not go into drive in the morning when cold, and started happening more frequently, but once in gear it ran fine. Changing the trans fluid was a temporary solution, but it started not going into drive again in the mornings. Upon further research, I narrowed my focus to the transmission line pressure solenoid valve that is known to get clogged with debris, and changing fluid alone is not enough to clean it out. The solenoid is accessible by dropping the transmission fluid pan, and as it turns out, there are two small holes of the side of the solenoid. I sprayed carborator cleaner into each hole on the side of the solenoid and black debris poured out for a few seconds and then the carborator cleaner flowed clear. This was a simple fix and has completely solved the problem. A few squirts of carborator cleaner and a transmission fluid change solved the issue - it now goes into gear immediately, and at all temperatures. No need for a new transmission like most of the mechanics were telling me. I hope this helps others who have the same problem.
Thank you for posting this! I was having the same problem - got the fluid changed and solenoid cleaned, now it goes into Drive easily in cold weather.

riceski
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chipahoy wrote:
Fri Feb 03, 2012 8:05 pm
i see what your saying, but if it were morning sickness and related, how would the transmission differentiate between "D," "2," or "L?" it runs and shifts fine. I will try changing the fluid and filter, friend suggested Mobil 1 Dextron ATF. Will post again after the fluid change. Thanks for all the great suggestions.
GOT TO ASK - HOW DID CHANGING THE FLUID HELP OR NOT?

justjuiceit
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Regular Dexron III will work fine, especially for multiple drain and fills. In fact the thermal properties are better than most new fluids out there for heat rejection. New fluids are more concerned with that fraction of a MPG over transmission longevity. Valvoline brand is less than $14.00 for a jug and only a few more pennies than SuperTech.

98_Q45
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justjuiceit wrote:
Mon Jun 29, 2020 9:13 pm
Regular Dexron III will work fine, especially for multiple drain and fills. In fact the thermal properties are better than most new fluids out there for heat rejection. New fluids are more concerned with that fraction of a MPG over transmission longevity. Valvoline brand is less than $14.00 for a jug and only a few more pennies than SuperTech.
I’m a Vavoline Maxlife user! Lol.

I’m on my 4th 10+ year old car. Never had any transmission issues. Even “fixed” a transmission solenoid issue just by driving and fluid changes. Transmission fluid is really a no brainer. Long as it’s high mileage, and dexron 3. I’ve used Citgo, vavoline, Castrol, no name gas station...still no leaks or shudders.

I believe the #1 thing that screws up transmissions are the way people shift from R to D. Most everybody I know shifts from R to D WHILE the car is still moving. No, no, no lol. The car MUST come to a complete stop, then you shift, wait 2 seconds for the thingy to catch, and then drive.

Also, I see people starting their car and IMMEDIATELY popping into R or D before the engine even finishes it’s morning REV (mine does an explosive 2K RPM for a good 2-3 seconds).

This is just me. I’ve never had transmission problems in any car I’ve owned, and they’ve been pushed to 250, 300 and 350,000 miles. And I occasionally peel the tires and redline, and sometimes shift from D to L or 2 depending on terrain (when fully warmed up). It’s all about morning starts, and making sure the car comes to a complete stop before shifting from R to D. That one little mistake creates tremendous wear on the tranny. Transmission is not brakes, therefore using it to stop 3,000 pounds of force even at 2 mph, is not good.

riceski
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Thanks dex 3 it is

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Yes, Dexron III for the RE4R03A transmissions (G50 and FGY33)--however, you won't find that.
I have had favorable results with using the Dex V/Mercon in lieu of Dex III.

dborel
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KJM wrote:
Sat Jul 18, 2015 11:56 am
Hello. I have a 2001 Nissan Altima, 163K miles, with the EXACT same problem. Did not go into drive in the morning when cold, and started happening more frequently, but once in gear it ran fine. Changing the trans fluid was a temporary solution, but it started not going into drive again in the mornings. Upon further research, I narrowed my focus to the transmission line pressure solenoid valve that is known to get clogged with debris, and changing fluid alone is not enough to clean it out. The solenoid is accessible by dropping the transmission fluid pan, and as it turns out, there are two small holes of the side of the solenoid. I sprayed carborator cleaner into each hole on the side of the solenoid and black debris poured out for a few seconds and then the carborator cleaner flowed clear. This was a simple fix and has completely solved the problem. A few squirts of carborator cleaner and a transmission fluid change solved the issue - it now goes into gear immediately, and at all temperatures. No need for a new transmission like most of the mechanics were telling me. I hope this helps others who have the same problem.
Is the "transmission line pressure solenoid valve" referenced in the above post the same as a "automatic transmission control solenoid"? I am having this exact issue with my 1999 Infiniti Q45 and am planning to swap out this valve. I can find the "automatic transmission control solenoid" online but, talking to a few people this doesn't seem to be the same as the "transmission line pressure solenoid valve". However, i'm really not sure. A link to the part would be great if anyone knows which one it is.


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