Transmission fluid change - necessary to change filter and pan gasket

Post by **sledder12** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 6:15 pm

Never changed tranny fluid before, but seems fairly straight forward. Car has 148,000 kilometers. Fluid looks brown, no idea service history as I just bought it. I was simply going to remove the drain plug and refill with the same amount that drained out. Or should I replace the filter, which makes me a bit more nervous as I've never done anything like this before. Thanks.

Post by **Pwnin O'Brien** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 6:33 pm

Changing out the trans fluid is EXTREMELY simple, if you know what you're doing. Make sure you accurately measure the amount drained so you know how much to put back in. Too much can damage the transmission.

Without knowing the service history of the vehicle, I would highly recommend changing out the trans filter with a new one and resealing the oil pan. This job is also really easy and won't take much time. Of course, if you don't know what you're doing and don't work much on cars, then you may not want to tackle this job. The new filter and gasket are really cheap and will provide peace of mind.

Post by **longhornsqx4** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 6:34 pm

Dont touch the filter or pan, simply drain fluid, fill same ammount back in (check on dipstick)

Theres quite a few members from here in your area in Ontario.

Im sure some could help you

Post by **sledder12** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 6:44 pm

Okay, so new filter/gasket or just drain and refill?

If I decide to do a new filter do I need a new gasket?

Also, what is the torque setting for the pan bolts?

Thanks

Post by **Pwnin O'Brien** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 6:59 pm

Actually I just completely forgot that when you remove the oil pan you need to replace all of the bolts (18 of them) since they are self-sealing. If you do not replace with new bolts then you may get a leak. This will increase your costs a bit.

I only recommend replacing the trans filter/gaskets if you know what you're doing. If you know what you're doing and have a copy of the service manual handy, then replacing the trans filter/gaskets is a really simple job (about 1-2 hours).

Post by **Mikey178** » Wed Sep 02, 2009 2:40 pm

That's news to me, if you remove the bolts you have to replace them.

Like others have said, if you're not comfortable removing the tran pan and changing the tran filter, just drain and fill and take it to a local shop to do the filter when you have time.

I'd say even go buy the parts and take it to the shop to get them to replace it for you and see if they can do it for a reasonable price. It is imperative that you seal the pan back properly or you risk leaks which is no good.

I haven't changed mine so I couldn't really give you any insight to replacing it, but I'm sure it is easy as I've done it before on other vehicles.

Post by **larryt** » Wed Sep 02, 2009 5:07 pm

Just drain and fill, that's what the FSM calls for. I exchanged about 3Q per oil change, realizing I hadn't had it done in a while. After the fourth drain and fill, the old comes out clean red just as it went in. Shifting feels crisp and new at 102K miles.

Post by **rlp** » Wed Sep 02, 2009 8:12 pm

LarryT, Say you drained and filled 4 times. No prob me doing job and have done several before. Did you fill, run to temp, drain 4 times or just pour through?. Same fluid for 4 times or different.? If so did you use D-Matic or other for flushing?? Any clarification would help me to get mine clean when do it.

Thanks

Post by **sledder12** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 1:35 am

larryt wrote:Just drain and fill, that's what the FSM calls for. I exchanged about 3Q per oil change, realizing I hadn't had it done in a while. After the fourth drain and fill, the old comes out clean red just as it went in. Shifting feels crisp and new at 102K miles.

So drain, fill with amount that came out, run to operating temp, then start all over? Do this 4 times?

Just need a bit more clarification.

Thanks

Post by **dan96max** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 4:06 am

I just hit 80k on mine and am planning on changing the transmission, transfercase, and front and rear end fluids. Why wouldn't you change the filter? I could understand just draining it would be easier but is there any other reason someone would change just the fluid instead of the filter on one of these? Also is the transmission fluid just standard dexron III?

Post by **Densetsu** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 6:39 am

Pwnin O’Brien wrote:Actually I just completely forgot that when you remove the oil pan you need to replace all of the bolts (18 of them) since they are self-sealing. If you do not replace with new bolts then you may get a leak. This will increase your costs a bit.

Well, I'll be damned. Step 11c below. I just re-used the old bolts when I changed the filter, the level's been roughly the same since last year so I'll just leave it. Next time I guess I'll have to pick some up. Do parts shops have these or do I have to go to the dealer?

Post by **Pwnin O'Brien** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 6:55 am

Densetsu wrote:
Well, I'll be damned. Step 11c below. I just re-used the old bolts when I changed the filter, the level's been roughly the same since last year so I'll just leave it. Next time I guess I'll have to pick some up. Do parts shops have these or do I have to go to the dealer?

Well I ordered mine from my local dealer (forgot how much for all 18) but it looks like Advance Auto carries some oil pan bolts (http://shop.advanceautoparts.c...7____). Don't know if they're self-sealing or if they even fit the trans oil pan.

Post by **Pwnin O'Brien** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 7:01 am

Also, I'm sure you'll be fine using the old bolts if they look like they're in good condition and if you replace the pan gasket. The gasket seals the outer perimeter of the pan anyhow so it's sealed behind the bolts (actually each bolt is sealed completely from the oil pan).

Post by **larryt** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 2:02 pm

Sorry I wasn't more clear. I actually meant that I did a 3Q drain and fill each time I changed the oil for the last 15-20k miles. I just did the fourth one at 102k miles. There's nothing prescribed about this approach, just figured it was easy and incremental.
Modified by larryt at 6:07 PM 9/4/2009

Post by **nheitz** » Fri Sep 04, 2009 4:59 am

If you only drain the pan & refill you're leaving almost half of the transmission fluid behind in the torque converter. You will also leave a lot of sediment & shavings behind in the pan. I've used the following procedure on several cars, including my 2001 PF:

1) Warm the ATF to operating temperature by driving.2) Using the drain plug, drain the ATF pan into a measured container.3) When the pan is mostly drained, remove the pan completely.4) Using a solvent (I use brake-cleaner) & lint free rags, clean the pan & magnet.5) Remove ALL the remains of the old gasket, being careful not to damage the mating surface.6) Remove the filter & install the new filter.7) Replace the gasket & reinstall the pan, tightening the bolts in a criss-cross pattern to the specified torque.8) Refill through the dipstick tube the amount of ATF you drained into the measured container.9) Now disconnect the cooler line that is the return from the ATF cooler to the ATF and aim it into your measured container.10) It will be easier if you have two people for this part. Have someone start the car. ATF will start to flow from this cooler line. Have them turn the car off when you have emptied one quart of ATF into your container.11) Now refill with one new quart of ATF through the dipstick tube.12) Repeat steps 10 & 11 until the fluid draining from the cooler tube looks like the new fluid.13) Reconnect the cooler line, start the car & check for leaks, and check the ATF level at operating temperature.

This probably sounds more complicated than it is. Anyone who has changed oil can do it.

Post by **Pwnin O'Brien** » Fri Sep 04, 2009 6:08 am

What about the oil which is in the return lines past where you disconnect to drain (or do you just disconnect the return line immediately at the transmission?)?

I'm sure it's more effective than just draining from the pan, I'm just not sure how safe it is for the trans oil pump. Then again, I might be over analyzing it.

Post by **nheitz** » Fri Sep 04, 2009 8:53 am

If the connection at the transmission is easily accessible I would disconnect there. It's been a while since I did it on the PF so I can't remember. But if you have to disconnect at the cooler I wouldn't worry about the little bit in that line. And I think you'll be fine as long as you do it a quart at a time & no more. The other way to do it is to have someone slowly refill as you're letting it pump out. But it seems like it would be hard to pour & drain at the same rate.

Post by **Andrew224** » Mon Sep 07, 2009 2:12 pm

FWIW... I change mine every 15k miles. Just the drain and refill. Very easy. Got a pail from the paint section at the hardware store with the measurement markings on it for draining. Always takes 4 qts and 14 oz exactly. And yes, warm up the transmission by drivng around the block (less than 5 minutes and you'll be good).

I was surprised the first time I did this that the drain bolt has a copper crush washer on it which the manual said nothing about. Thankfully, I had extras that I had gotten from the Infiniti parts dept for the oil drain plug (it was the same size) for oil changes. Torque it down to about 25 ft-lbs when you put it back up there.

If you do it on a regular basis, every 15k miles, the fluid isn't all that dirty. If you plan on longer incriments, then go further and get as much out as you can. Otherwise, the drain and refill is a one person job and takes 15 minutes including clean up. Way better than nothing and it's almost impossible to screw it up. My dealer charges almost $100 for this service, the ATF from Nissan runs me about $30 or so.

Andrew

Post by **GRNMACHINE** » Sun Oct 25, 2009 1:53 pm

Local Dealer wants alot more than $100 to do ATF change. I was planning on having them do it this week. I am all about saving money and doing things myself when I can but without a lift I know this is going to be extremely messy. There isnt that much room underneath the Path. I did the front & rear diffs and transfer case but they are just drain plugs. Removing the Trans Pan would be a real PITA without a lift.

Post by **GRNMACHINE** » Thu Oct 29, 2009 1:02 pm

Found this amusing, called another dealer today. They want $199 to do a Trans Flush/Fill. It is "special equipment" and "recommended by Nissan".... I asked if that included dropping the pan (cleaning shavings etc), and they said no a flush is better.... Yeah, ok. Thanks and C Ya next time---Not.

Post by **azeiler** » Thu Apr 08, 2010 4:13 am

I just had my 06 M35’s fluid changed at 60,000 miles by a local tranny shop (Automatic Transmission Factory in Davie, FL). They removed the pan, then drained and inspected the torque converter as well as the valve body. Then they refilled using Amsoil synthetic (around 14 quarts) and a bottle of Lubeguard. What a huge difference!!! The tranny shifts smoother when I drive nice, but kicks harder when I jump on it. I never expected these kinds of noticeable results just from switching fluids. I think the cost was around $175.

For a car this expensive, I don't understand why anyone would try to cut corners by partially replacing fluid intermittently. I understand the need to save money, but IMHO the tranny is not the place to do it.

Post by **01silvapathy** » Thu Apr 08, 2010 7:01 am

I replaced my fluid and filter in my college parking lot with just a socket set Granted im lifted and on 33's it gives me a bit more room to crawl under. Its really not that hard to do, just drain then take off all the 10mm bolts that hold on the pan. Clean the pan, then take off the 4 10mm bolts that hold on the filter put on the new filter and re install the pan then bam refill with the same amount of oil and you are done. It took me an hour by myself. Did re use the bolts and managed to break on off re installing, but the new gasket is still holding strong and there are no leaks to speak of, even after a 4hr drive home, and 5 days later another 4hr drive back to school. It really does make the truck shift a whole lot smoother also!

Post by **Empty V** » Thu Apr 08, 2010 9:02 am

Here's an illustrated walk through on how change the ATF, Filter and Gasket You can find this and many other useful "How To:" threads in the sticky at the top our little section of NICO.

Billy

Post by **GRNMACHINE** » Fri Apr 09, 2010 2:31 pm

azeiler wrote:I just had my 06 M35’s fluid changed at 60,000 miles by a local tranny shop (Automatic Transmission Factory in Davie, FL). They removed the pan, then drained and inspected the torque converter as well as the valve body. Then they refilled using Amsoil synthetic (around 14 quarts) and a bottle of Lubeguard. What a huge difference!!! The tranny shifts smoother when I drive nice, but kicks harder when I jump on it. I never expected these kinds of noticeable results just from switching fluids. I think the cost was around $175.

For a car this expensive, I don't understand why anyone would try to cut corners by partially replacing fluid intermittently. I understand the need to save money, but IMHO the tranny is not the place to do it.

Thats definitely worth the money in my opinion. Mobil 1 fluid alone is $9 a quart. U basically spent a few bucks for them to do the work.

When I had my harmonic balancer replaced at the dealer, they had an offer for ATF change $59. Figured why not, I cant even buy the fluid for that. Ended up being pull the plug, let it drain, and refill. Not thrilled.... to say the least. Now that the weather is getting nice i may take Billys fantastic write up and replace the fluid with Amsoil or Mobil 1.

chase707 · Post by **chase707** » Wed Apr 29, 2015 8:00 pm

Hello everyone so I accidentally drained all my transmittion fluid in my pathfinder when wanting to do an oil change .. i was wondering if anyone knows if this is going to cause any harm to it I haven't driven it yet but I have started it I know I need to replace the tranny fluid but I want to know if I need to do anything else before adding some

Post by **rgk** » Thu Apr 30, 2015 5:06 am

Yeah, screw the plug back in.

You will be fine if you started it but didn't drive it.

chase707 · Post by **chase707** » Thu Apr 30, 2015 7:13 am

Awesome thank you for your input is there any special way to add more transmission fluid to it or just put it straight th o the dipstick hole

Post by **rgk** » Thu Apr 30, 2015 10:06 am

Straight through the dipstick hole. If you lost all of the fluid in the pan, you will need to pour in over four quarts. Google 'how to check transmission fluid' and follow the directions to make sure you add the right amount.

Transmission fluid change - necessary to change filter and pan gasket

Transmission fluid change - necessary to change filter and pan gasket

Re: Transmission fluid change - necessary to change f ... (sledder12)

Re: Transmission fluid change - necessary to change f ... (sledder12)

Re: Transmission fluid change - necessary to change f ... (longhornsqx4)

Re: Transmission fluid change - necessary to change f ... (sledder12)

Re: Transmission fluid change - necessary to change f ... (Pwnin O'Brien)

Re: Transmission fluid change - necessary to change f ... (Mikey178)

Re: Flushing for best clean? (larryt)

Re: Transmission fluid change - necessary to change f ... (larryt)

Re: Transmission fluid change - necessary to change f ... (sledder12)

Re: Transmission fluid change - necessary to change f ... (Pwnin O'Brien)

Re: Transmission fluid change - necessary to change f ... (Densetsu)

Re: Transmission fluid change - necessary to change f ... (Pwnin O'Brien)

Re: Flushing for best clean? (rlp)

Re: Transmission fluid change - necessary to change f ... (sledder12)

Re: Transmission fluid change - necessary to change f ... (nheitz)

Re: Transmission fluid change - necessary to change f ... (Pwnin O'Brien)

Re: Transmission fluid change - necessary to change f ... (sledder12)

Re: Transmission fluid change - necessary to change f ... (sledder12)

Re: Transmission fluid change - necessary to change f ... (GRNMACHINE)

Re: Transmission fluid change - necessary to change f ... (GRNMACHINE)

Re: (01silvapathy)

Re: Transmission fluid change - necessary to change f ... (azeiler)

Re: Transmission fluid change - necessary to change filter and pan gasket

Re: Transmission fluid change - necessary to change filter and pan gasket

Re: Transmission fluid change - necessary to change filter and pan gasket

Re: Transmission fluid change - necessary to change filter and pan gasket

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