Transmission acting weird after sitting

[cubby]

I have a 1990 300zx 2+2 in my garage that I have been working on since Dec. It drove fine in the winter when it was cold. It sat in my garage all winter while I worked on suspension and other parts. Now when I shift into drive it seems to slip like when I put it into drive and second it does not move unless I hit the gas. When I put the car in reverse it goes like hell and the same if I put it down in first. But when in drive and second the car barley goes at first. It does seem like It wont go all the way in first but it goes like hell when I hold it down in first. I checked the fluid level and it was good and not burnt. I figured that it would be good so I changed the fluid and filter. Still same thing though. I was all over this car the last few months!! Is there something I could have done? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!!

[mstaat]

have you bled your clutch cylinder or master cylinder there is a bleeder in the engine compartment i changed my clutch and when every thing was back together i was excited to drive it again but when we kept bleeding my clutch over and over again i had to wait another day before i found out that there was a bleeder on top and on bottom of the car one on the slave cylinder and one on the passanger head light

[cubby]

Im sorry but I forgot to mention its an automatic non turbo.

[mstaat]

FAIL

thats alright hmmmmm

now im confused

[1911a1]

Run the transmission diagnostics. If you automatic transmission is acting erratically, try the diagnostic to isolate the problem. The diagnostic, like the main computer diagnostic, may show an error code if it reads a sensor or circuit that is not within factory specs. If the problem is mechanical, the diagnostic won't show it. If it's electrical, then the diagnostic gives a general idea where to start looking to correct the problem.

http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnet....html

[cubby]

OK the diagnostic light blinks as follows :

------ - - - - ------ - ------ - - -

------ =solid light - =fast blinking light

So would that read Shift solenoid B and lock up solonoid? Maybe this is something that I had unplugged somewhere? Any suggestions? Possible locations?
Modified by cubby at 9:04 PM 4/14/2009

[carcrazyguy]

Maybe this is something that I had unplugged somewhere? Any suggestions? Possible locations?

I would think it is likely something simple...especially if it was fine before. AT's pretty much work or they dont'...and not much in between. Check every last harness and so on around and to the transmission.

[dissolutionskey]

also keep in mind wether the at fluid looks burnt or not the transmission actually uses the grit that gets built up in the fluid as a friction additive so when you change it you lose that additive. the fluid might not have been burnt but it might have been at the point where changing it remove enough of the floating friction material to cause it to slip or act 'weird' thats why when the fluid is burnt you dont change it and just ride it out.

*edit* also dont quote me on this but i believe the clutch packs in auto trannys are grouped. so if you are having reverse work proper but first and second gear are slipping it could be your 1,2 gear clutch pack and friction disk. I believe they are grouped 1,2 in one pack 3,4 in one pack and 5,reverse in the third or maybe just reverse. Not sure if the auto has 5 gears never driven one

[carcrazyguy]

dont quote me on this but i believe the clutch packs in auto trannys are grouped. so if you are having reverse work proper but first and second gear are slipping it could be your 1,2 gear clutch pack and friction disk. I believe they are grouped 1,2 in one pack 3,4 in one pack and 5,reverse in the third or maybe just reverse. Not sure if the auto has 5 gears never driven one

2/4 are one "plane", 1/3 the other. Sorry I don't know the proper terms...

Edit: After reading post 1 again, I am a little confused. From initial take off, there should be no difference in what the transmission does based which position the lever is in (in forward gears). If the Z32 had a "hold" feature like similar vintage Mazdas do, it would be a different story. So please elaborate a little more if possible. But from all I can make of the original post, you might want to look at the neutral safety switch/position sensor.

[cubby]

Ok I drove the car today and here is what I came up with:

It seems as the car is in 2nd when I have it in drive and when I shift down to second there seems to be no change. When from a stop if I put the car in first manually the car has tons of torque same as reverse. Power braking was possible before but not now. I would like to think it could be something that I did while working on the car.

I understand that the old fluid could have acted as an abrasive and helped me as with the cold in the winter when I drove it. But i drove the car across town in the cold approx 20 miles round trip (plenty of time to heat the fluid) with no problems and now this. Tonight I found 3 small vacuum leaks and I will repair those and then look at the wiring on the actual transmission itself cause I know the wire loom was breaking off so maybe a wire pulled out of a connector or something.

I have been working on this thing since Nov. Replaced: Crank angle sensor, plugs, transmission fluid & filter, flushed radiator. changed oil, added tein ss coilovers, complete alarm keyless entry & remote starter, slotted cross drilled rotors, 18" Ruff racing staggered rims, clear tail lights & sides, tinted windows, added front and rear strut stabilizers, white face gauges, changed interior dash lamps to led's, repaired quarter panel rocker and inner rear tire wells , and a complete custom sound system +more!

And now it don't have torque!!
Modified by cubby at 10:23 PM 4/15/2009

[cubby]

I will post more pics when sound and all passanger body work is done. is done . Car is not set at ride height yet.

Here it is:

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[carcrazyguy]

OP solved problem below, post no longer needed.


Modified by carcrazyguy at 10:41 PM 4/16/2009

[cubby]

Ok I found the problem! After tracing the whole wiring schematic from the transmission and checking all the sensors I found that connector E24 was corroded and was not making connection. I was hoping it was the WOT or I think its called the kick down switch located above the throttle pedal. (easy fix) This took me about 2 hrs to troubleshoot. Starting at the transmission and working my way out. There are several things that could have caused this problem after I used the troubleshooting tree. As you can see here there are many things that can go wrong ( 5 years of electrical school and electronics repair & design paid off)

http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi Here is a pic of the wiring harness locations the transmission solenoid harness is E24.



This is a pic of the actual harness on my car its the brown one.

Hope if anyone has this problem they can benefit from my pictures.