I am still trying to get my Professional Wiring Products harness installed. The problem I have is that the power accessory plug that the trailer isolation box plugs in to has no power.

I spent another hour today double-checking the fuses, plugs, etc. That plug simply has no power no matter what condition it is checked in. Lights on, ignition on, motor running, motor running - lights on, etc. Using Fluke multi-meter, and yes, I am sure the meter works.

It is this plug:



I have checked all the fuses under the dash and under the hood.

Does anyone know what else would be on this circuit? It looks like if this plug gets no power that logically something else would not be working either.

11/30Added fuses to open slots in fuse block under hood. There are 5 open slots but only 3 have connectors to accept a fuse. Plug in cargo area is still dead. Double-checked fuses in cabin. All fuse sockets capible of holding a fuse are full...no empty slots and no obvious blown fuses.

May have to take alternate installation suggestions from Professional Wiring kit (for cars without a power plug) and run a wire all the way to the battery.

Update 12/4

I am updating this posting because this may help someone else in the future who attempts to add the trailer wiring harness. For those of you who already know this, be patient with those of us who are just learning.

There are actually three different fuse boxes with replaceable fuses, at least that I have found so far. One inside the cabin and two under the hood. The one in the cabin is obvious. Under the hood both are under the intake tube that has to be removed to get to the boxes (2). The box closest to the front contains the fuse that powers the "trailer" connector wire found under the jack storage box in the rear compartment that your trailer isolation box hooks to. It is a 30 AMP fuse (green). The lid of the box actually identifies it as the "trailer" fuse. There is only one wire attached to that fuse (blue) it goes into the main left body harness and exits about 12 inches from the back door under the jack storage. The other fuse block is harder to get to, you must unlatch it and actually pull the fuse block up and turn it over. The fuses go in from the bottom.

That said, now that I have found the fuse, it still did not solve my problem. My fuse was installed and checks good. Somewhere between the fuse in the front under the hood and the connector in the back, my "trailer wire" is open. Juice goes in the front, but does not come out the back. Guess I have a decision to make.....add a wire as one of the board members suggested or take it in for warranty. I am leaning toward the latter in case something else comes of the problem in the future.

Thanks,

Bill

Modified by kg5ie at 2:15 PM 11/21/2008

Modified by kg5ie at 2:32 PM 11/29/2008

Modified by kg5ie at 10:49 AM 11/30/2008

Modified by kg5ie at 2:37 PM 12/4/2008

Modified by kg5ie at 12:41 PM 12/7/2008
Modified by kg5ie at 10:15 AM 1/4/2009

You've got me. Mine worked just fine.

Is there a wiring schematic in the service manual anywhere? I found the harness layout but it is really not much help on tracing circuits.

Bill

The wiring diagram and harness isn't shown in the FSM.

Check your ground. I used the chassis ground near the driver's side tail light, not the harness.

Ground is directly to the frame. Checks good with meter. Simply no voltage to the power wire on harness. Guess I will run a wire to the battery for power as installation instructions say regarding cars that do not have the aux power plug.

I may stop by the dealership tomorrow and talk to service to see if they have any suggestions.

Bill

Is there a wiring schematic in the service manual anywhere? I found the harness layout but it is really not much help on tracing circuits.

Bill

Dealership says that it is likely a fuse that is not installed for that circuit, and for around $90 they will figure out which one. All of the fuses for the panel inside the car are there and good. I guess it could be one under the hood. Is there a layout for those anywhere? How hard are they to check?

Ugh!!!

bump...updated original post

kg5ie,

I am 100% positive the fuse is in the interior fuse panel (loer LH dash). I am really puzzled why yours does not work. Do you have an S model by chance? This could be the reason why.

In any case, you do have a few options:

1 - Tap power from one of the lighter outlets. I did this on my Altima. Never had a problem.

2 - Use a fuse tap on one of the spare or existing fuses.

Image courtesy JCWhitneyhttp://www.jcwhitney.com/WIRTH...1.jcw

The wiring can be run in the OEM location near the LH frame rail by removing the plastic 'kick plates' below the doors and pulling the carpet back. Once you route the wire towards the front, it is quite easy to access either the fuse panel or lighter.

It is a loaded SL. Electric seats, Bose, sunroof, 4wd, leather, etc.

Thanks for the "tap" suggestion. At least I would not have to go all the way to the battery.

Bump for update to original posting.

I haven't read in post that people needed a fuse but it is possible. My titan required a fuse for a plug in play kit. It was located under the hood in the fuse box there. I hope this helps.

I am having the exact same problem with my wife's '08 Rogue. "pre wired" my ***... I'm going to go check the fuses under the hood now, but it sounds like I may have the exact same issue as you. Hate to have to run my own power line when there's supposed to be one there. I'll let you know if I find the problem.

I took the Rogue in to the dealer to have this problem fixed. I knew from my tests that the "blue" wire coming from the "trailer" fuse under the hood was open somewhere between the fuse box and the rear plug.

After 7 hours of disassembly, repair, and re-assembly the problem was found and solved. The "open" was where the main harness goes through the firewall. The trailer wire not connected to the main harness plug at the firewall inside the vehicle. It was completely loose. Once the tech found that and got the wire into the main harness plug, all was good.

They said it came from the factory that way. It looked like the blue trailer wire was never put into the main harness plug.

The 2009 Rogue Service Manual shows an 'option connector' which is the elusive power connector kg5ie was trying to troubleshoot. This part is missing from the 2008 Rogue Service Manual!

At least you found the problem and corrected it.

WHOA baby, Dealership is responsible for making this right- FOR FREE.It comes a part of a PAID FOR package and if it doesnt work they MUST fix.

The choice is - fix it or REFUND the option package price!!!

Sorry for the late reply... My problem was simply the trailer fuse in the fuse panel under the hood. put a fuse in, and I've got working lights

This is a great thread, especially with the picture, Thanks All.

Hi guys,
I know this thread is REALLY old.. but I am just now getting around to hooking up trailer lights to my 2008 Rogue.
I managed to find the Hitch prewire in the back under my jack, but now I want to check to make sure I have a fuse in the engine compartment for it to make sure I am getting power.

I see you have to take the air intake off to get to it. Does the air intake just pop off by popping up each plastic clip that is holding it down? I really don't want to break or crack anything.

Or is there an easier way to check to see if i am getting power from the pre-wire plug in back?
I ordered the wiring harness from Professional Wiring website, but didn't get it yet. I just want to make sure I have power to the pre wire plug so i can go out and get a fuse now if not.
By the way, not sure if the Professional Wiring website is still hacked somehow.. I was able to order the part but the link in the confirmation email that takes me to my order gets redirected to some http://pool-massage.ru website...

I am able to manually confirm my order though on their website, but it looks like some urls on their page are getting redirected still... is this company still reputable? I know its been a few years since this topic was discussed..

thanks!

Gentlemen - Apologies for the necrobump on an old thread, however I was in the same boat as others struggling to understand the "factory pre-wiring" and this thread is simply fantastic helping us work the DIY wiring.

Following the instructions noted here I was able to tap into the pre-wired 12v power, making installation much easier with the Curt wiring kit on my 2012 Rogue SV AWD.

Thanks to all, special thanks to philipa_240sx!