Track Times???

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DaBalla07
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Hey everyone my brother in law challenged me the other day after he bought a 2005 Maxima SL last month. I've seen reviews for high 14's on my 2002 Maxima SE and he thinks that his is faster. I know that there is a 5 hsp and 11 pd torque difference in his over mine but thats minimal in my view and his 5 spd sport shifter wont be enough to tame me and my 6 spd manual at acceleration or top speed. I know it will be close but, how close and what are some track times that you or friends have run???

Mine: 2002 Maxima SE w/ 6 spd manual

His: 2005 Maxima SL w/ 5 spd auto


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Beancooker
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It all comes down to driving...can he drive? If not you'll smoke him. I drive an '01 with the 3.0 and an auto tranny. 15.4 was my best time. Not proud, but not too embarrassed either. I'm going back to the track Friday and I'll see if the TB restrictor mod helps.

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Chris92SE
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They are very close from the times I have seen.

If you just add a y-pipe you will beat him.

the 6-speed 3.5L 5.5 gen is good for mid 14s stock, low 14s with a y-pipe

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audtatious
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Stock my 2k2 auto did 14.9 on the RE92's. IMO, with proper traction/launch and a good track, it should be good for 14.6-14.7 in stock form. 6sp should easily be .2 lower than the auto.

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Beancooker
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Manual trans is good for 1.0 over an auto. I raced a '00 same exact car as mine, 1 year difference,(stock/stock) except for tranny, he was between .85 & 1.2 faster consistantly

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audtatious
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"at the track" I've noticed .2 and sometimes greater. 6sp is easier to get "out of the hole" and does not suffer "slow shift syndrome" like the auto Maxima has (can be bad on my 2k2). Now, if you disconnect the resistor, then I would agree with the .1 difference.

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Beancooker
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Ok audtatious, school me, what resistor am I disconnecting? This will make my track time faster? I'm going to the track Friday @1pm Please let me know. I'll be racing a riced up CRX and a Jetta. And it really is a track, not the street. Bremerton Raceway

Also .1 is one tenth of a second, right?1.0 is one second,right? Because the manual tranny was beating me by a full second, give or take a few hundreths.And yes I suffer from slow shift syndrome too. SUX

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maxhopper
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He's probably talking about the drop resistor. It's located on the driver's side strut tower, facing the front of the car. It's just a little resistor that has a plug going to it. It controls the line pressure in the automatic trans. When disconnected, it makes the trans shift at full line pressure. I would only use this at the track.

It will make the over drive light flash, but you just plug the resistor back up, clear the code, and you're good to go.

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Chris92SE
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I am telling you guys...

the first mod you need to make is a y-pipe. That lowered my time more than anything I did.

After that, it was the ACT clutch, Fidanza flywheel and UDP.

My car (old *** 3rd gen) runs a 14.8 and the coolest temp I have ever run is about 75 degrees.


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Beancooker
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Scott, Audtatious, which one, the one in red or the one in blue? I'm guessing the one in blue, but don't want to mess with it until I know.

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maxhopper
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BLUE.

All I can say is enjoy the ride from the finish line back to the pits/staging lane.

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Beancooker
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Any cons to doing this? Do I have to reset the ECU or can I use the autozone scantool to clear the code?

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maxhopper
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I ran a season at the local 1/8 mile track, unplugging the drop resistor (around 10 test and tune days - 6 to 10 runs, and 3 race days - 4 to 6 runs). My planetary gear whined before, and it still whines now. It's not something I would recommend over a period of years/hard-core racing. In that case, I would go for the VB mod and a trans cooler (if you wanted to stay auto).

The shifts at full throttle will be much crisper. My comment about the drive back to the pits is because at partial throttle, any shift between gears will rattle your teeth.

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Beancooker
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As far as clearing the code, autozone scantool or reset ECU? and will resetting the ECU also clear the advancement on my timing (I don't want to clear that)?

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maxhopper
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I'm not sure which way would be best for you, with the timing advance. Which ever way can clear the code without changing your timing, that would be the way to go.

If all else fails, just reconnect the drop resistor, and any warning lights should go out after approximately 50 starts.

You could also try to disconnect the negative battery cable for 15 minutes, but I don't think that works on newer models.

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Beancooker
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Thanks Scott.

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audtatious
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I've unplugged it once for racing but never got a chance to run because of rain. It did throw a cel. The cel went away the next day without me having to reset anything. Scott is right, the shifting while moving the vehicle will knock your fillings out. What others have done is add a WOT switch to the throttle body. When under full acceleration it will disable the resistor, but during regular driving it won't. Doing this is fine but you will just have to get used to the cel light.

Yes, I was talking tenths of a second. In my 2k2, the transition from 1-2 and 2-3 is slow. With faster shifting, I would think the "resistor mod" would cut a tenth or more off your slip.


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Beancooker
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Are there any more suggestions that anyone has to help me improve my time. I got the launch and shift part down, but stuff like that resistor was news to me. Please help me break into the 14's. (dreaming right?)

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audtatious
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What are your 60' times? My 14 sec runs were all 2.2.

DaBalla07
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thanks alot for the help yeah we will both be stock other than car yr and him having a little more hsp and tque, only 5 and 11 respectivley and than trans. mine being 6 spd and his the auto/ sport shifter. I know it will be realitivley close and expect to win baring in mistakes on behalf of the line. Ive alwasy been the best out of any of my friends at r/t but never had a car to finish strong. Now that I have this sleeper I can accomplish some of that feat and put all the wanna be racers where they belong until I buy my new sti . Anyways we'll see and I again thank you for the comments, I bought my maxima for the family type of vehicle over a spec-v Ive wanted since the debuted in 02/03. I have put away a few gaystangs both cobra and mach 1, eventhough for them to loose to a bigger body car they're not much of racers but still. Im going to try and head to the local track before I leave the state to go queit him. As far as driving I really dont know about him, myself not to brag but as I said earlier in the right car Im quite untouchable, especially if some1 isnt as good off the line. (rare)

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Beancooker
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60'-2.303330'-6.5021/[email protected]'-12.8901/[email protected] was my best run of the season.
Modified by beancooker at 11:44 PM 9/22/2006

DaBalla07
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kool not bad but, is that with a 6 spd? I thought they were running mid to high 14's? just curious

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audtatious
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He has the VQ30 5th-gen which was offered in a 5sp. 5.5-gen (2002-03) was the first with the VQ35 and 6sp.

My best time stock actually does not have a good 60' (remember, I'm auto):

60'-2.372330'-6.3441/[email protected]'-12.4801/[email protected]

My best 60' did not give me my best time:60'-2.2081/[email protected]'-12.4681/[email protected]

Both of the above were on different days. For the most part, the couple times I have raced the humidity has sucked and so has the track. Nothing like following a bunch of V8 guys laying down rubber as the car feels like it is on a ice rink during launch.


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Beancooker
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Good times. you have an 02 w/ a 3.5, right?

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audtatious
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Yeah.

The other 3.5 alty's and Maxima auto's were doing 15.1's on those days so I guess I did alright....

MaximA32

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any ideas on what i can expect on my 98 5 spd max?stock everything.

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Beancooker
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15.8-16.2 would be my guess. Look around at the auto salvage yards and see if they have an 01 or 02 maxima. Buy the intake manifold. It has VIAS and that is good for 30-35HP. It's an easy install and should only cost about 150-200 bucks.

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Beancooker
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Well I hoped to be posting track times but... after refusing and rescheduling shipping container full of syrup at work, getting a few friends to make the 60 mile crappy traffic drive, and talking MAD SHEIT to a Honda owner (and friend) the GD bank calls and needs to sign the papers to re-fi my home today. Escrow agent and loan officer on vacation next week. Hopefully I'll give you track times after next test and tune, end of September.

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Beancooker
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One month later and the saga continues. Praying for no rain on Friday. Bought 101 octane unleaded today, $$$ 13 gallons/$75. Sitting in 3 cans in my garage. So now with the drop resistor switch, Y-pipe and 101 gas, I hope to be posting some good times.

LA02MAX
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Well to the original poster, a 6-speed 5.5 gen is the fastest maxima to date. The 6th gens gained a lot of weight, and the only thing that makes their autos faster than ours is the extra gear. The 6-speed 5.5 gen is faster than a 6-speed 6th gen, which means it's faster than a 6th gen auto. 5.5 gen 6-speeds are low-mid 14 second cars, auto 6th gens are high 14s (like 14.9). On a 4th gen 5-speed we've seen anywhere from 14.6 to high 15s (the 14.6 driver didn't have trouble beating on his car ), but they're typically high 14s low 15s...hope that cleared up any misconceptions

EDIT: and oh yeah: y-pipes are NOT worth it on the VQ35 maximas...get headers if you want gains. VQ30's on the other hand benefit greatly from it, and headers are not worth the extra cost (to most people)


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