Torsion Bar lowering

[yevntry70]

I have a '70 521 pickup.  I have read and pretty much understand how to lower the front end using the torsion bar adjustment.  I was wondering if any of you have done it and know what is the max you can get out of this technic?  Are we talking 1 to 2 inches or 3 to 5?  Just curious so I know what size blocks to get for the rear.

[IMH]

If you get longer bolts (make sure they're grade 8) you can take it down as much as the front of my 320 in my signature picture.  I hate lowering blocks because they bring the bottom of the u bolts so close to the ground that if you ever had a flat they'd hit the ground.  I had my rear springs de arched.

[famousyellowz]

I had a '78 620 and was able to lower it all the way to the rubber stops.  Most would lower the rear using 2" blocks.  Could go lower though. 

Good luck.

[phlebmaster]

I lowered mine with the torsion bars, and have left the rear stock hight. I like the raked look.

[LilDat]

Stephen and Aaron, for those of us who never dreamed of lowering their front, give us more details/pictures of how you did it. I think it would be a great instructional tool. Ken

[phlebmaster]

You got it! I will post it tomorrow. :cool:

[IMH]

The front is simple.  You just replace the torsion bar anchor bolts with longer bolts which will give you more downward adjustment.  Use grade 8 bolts for this.

[phlebmaster]

Thanks Stephen! I have never thought of that...that is much simpler than re-indexing. :cool:

[phlebmaster]

I like Stephen's idea, but here is another option:

Quote »

Originally Posted by Bleach How to Reindex Torsion Bars in front of the middle crossmember, you pull the boot forward to reviel the lock ring Work a thin screwdriver into the edge of the ring. It will be tight. I had to work the angle back and forth while occasionally tapping the back of the handle with a hammer Once you get under the ring, work it out slightly. Do not pull the screwdriver away or the ring will pop back on After you have worked it off part way, use some pliers to pull the ring off the rest of the way. Be sure to still keep the screwdriver under the lock ring Tap the rear arm of that holds the adjuster bolt out of the crossmember. Hang onto the torsion bar. It can slide out at either end. I was able to feel the splines in the end of the bar and I moved it two notches. editbut you only want to move it one notch!) The reindexed bar is on the right. after the bar is reindexed, just hold the lock ring up and hit the back of the ring with a hammer. It pops on real easy. Put the dust boot back phlebmaster   Posts: 969 Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm Car: 1973 240z L26 4spd rip roar and ready to go! Top by IMH » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm I'm not certain but won't your method soften or stiffen the ride depending on which way you turn the bar? IMH   Posts: 468 Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm Top by phlebmaster » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm You are correct Stephen. :cool: If you turn the bolts in you will stiffen the ride and raise the front end. The opposite is true when turning the bolts out. You will run into your rubber bump stoppers if you do not remove them, so be sure not to let your suspension ride directly on your frame. phlebmaster   Posts: 969 Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm Car: 1973 240z L26 4spd rip roar and ready to go! Top by IMH » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm I lowered my truck about 15 years ago.  I shortened the insulators and had my rear springs re arched.  No lowering blocks.  Mine could actually go lower but I like it how it is.  Both ends are lower than stock with a slight rake.  I actually have a rear sway bar on mine and it handles about as good as you'll ever get a 320 to handle without more extensive mods. IMH   Posts: 468 Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm Top by phlebmaster » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm Nice! Do you have any recent pics of your 320? phlebmaster   Posts: 969 Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm Car: 1973 240z L26 4spd rip roar and ready to go! Top by IMH » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm The signature pic is only about 3-4 months old and nothing has been done to the truck since it was taken. IMH   Posts: 468 Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm Top by phlebmaster » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm IMH wrote: Quote » The signature pic is only about 3-4 months old and nothing has been done to the truck since it was taken.That is an incredible looking truck! : phlebmaster   Posts: 969 Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm Car: 1973 240z L26 4spd rip roar and ready to go! Top by famousyellowz » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm I do not think that the torsion will change at all when you turn the bar.  It's a bar spring and the indexing has nothing to do with it's ability to twist. In order to make it stiffer you would need to shorten it.  This can only be done one way without cuting it and relocating your rear mount points.  That would be to add splines (not really an option) and add another arm with splines that attach to the new spline location and the arm would need to bump up against a location onthe frame. I have this dual torsion set up on my hardbody.  The torsion bars were an option from the Nissan catalog.  It works normal unitl you put a load on the torsion bar and as it twists the additional arm will stop the bar from twisting from its location thus making the bar shorter between the A-arm and the rear torsion bar mount. famousyellowz   Posts: 59 Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm Top by phlebmaster » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm famousyellowz wrote: Quote » I do not think that the torsion will change at all when you turn the bar.  It's a bar spring and the indexing has nothing to do with it's ability to twist. In order to make it stiffer you would need to shorten it.  This can only be done one way without cuting it and relocating your rear mount points.  That would be to add splines (not really an option) and add another arm with splines that attach to the new spline location and the arm would need to bump up against a location onthe frame. I have this dual torsion set up on my hardbody.  The torsion bars were an option from the Nissan catalog.  It works normal unitl you put a load on the torsion bar and as it twists the additional arm will stop the bar from twisting from its location thus making the bar shorter between the A-arm and the rear torsion bar mount. You are correct when it comes to re-indexing, and thanks for the input. But, as you twist the torsion bar the resistance is progressive. So...if you turn the bolts in and raise the front end, then you are changing the resistance at the end of the travel. You will have more force pushing back as you reach the end of your travel due to the nature of the torsion bar wanting to return to center. That is what I meant by stiffening up the suspension. lol :P phlebmaster   Posts: 969 Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm Car: 1973 240z L26 4spd rip roar and ready to go! Top Re: (phlebmaster) by Desert Rat » Tue Oct 28, 2008 9:48 am It's a common misconception that lowering/raising Tbars stiffens or softens the ride. It simply changes the ride height. The only way the ride stiffens or softens is via a different spring rate (meaning a different spring). Obviously I'm a 4x4 guy and am more concerned with lifting. Cranked tbars can make for a harsher ride due to the limited down travel and the frequency the UCA hits the bumpstop, and I'd assume the same holds true for adjustments in the other direction. Reindexing is a better method for adjustment than having the anchor hang below the crossmember, exposed to speed bumps, etc. Also, after any adjustment like this, you've at the very least affected the toe-in setting on your alighnment. If you have a buddy with a tape measure, you can adjust this back into spec with the right wrenches. Ideally you want around 1/8" of toe in on the smaller tired trucks. I'll be over in the Nissan trucks forum Desert Rat   Posts: 1493 Joined: Wed Jan 17, 2007 11:57 am Car: 1998 Frontier 4x4, 2007 Murano S AWD, 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab 4x4 Cummins, 2004 Suzuki VS800 Website Top Re: (Desert Rat) by phlebmaster » Tue Oct 28, 2008 10:08 am Nice! Thanks for the input, I will be trying the camber adjustment this weekend. phlebmaster   Posts: 969 Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm Car: 1973 240z L26 4spd rip roar and ready to go! Top Re: (Desert Rat) by famousyellowz » Fri Nov 21, 2008 12:45 pm I think that's what I was trying to say or what I was thinking. Actually, nissan did offer two-stage torsion bars. I had them on my 86.5 hardbody. They added another set of splines about a foot back from the front of the bar with another arm that allowed you to set your next level of spring if I can say that. It would allow you to have normal torsion or spring rate until the next arm hit the frame thus making your torsion bar only a foot or so long which increases your spring rate. famousyellowz   Posts: 59 Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm Top Re: (IMH) by PEZi » Wed Dec 17, 2008 9:41 pm longer bolts... that's it? PEZi Moderator   Posts: 21021 Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2008 8:21 am Location: Pikes Peak, CO Car: Audi A4 Website Top by Old Rob » Mon May 18, 2009 7:03 pm Having the spring eyes reversed will drop the rear approx 2" without any change in ride or load capacity. Then use a block to get your final height. Check your driveline angles. Be sure any changes in height to check your bump stops and adjust them. Do not just remove them. That rubber block keeps the suspension from banging. The banging can shorten the life of the suspension components and is extremely annoying. Old Rob   Posts: 11 Joined: Thu Apr 16, 2009 8:33 pm Location: Orange County, CA Top by keiffer671 » Sun Oct 11, 2009 2:07 am question?? if goin with the torsion bar lowering. would it be wise to change the shocks to smaller ones or will stock shocks be enough to do the job? if it were to be changed any suggestions on drop shocks, any brand come to mind. also i heard of guys using ford pinto shocks for nissan 720. will this work or an 81 reg cab keiffer671   Posts: 22 Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2009 2:45 am Car: 1981 DATSUN 720 Z22 Top FN-QR by PEZi » Sat Oct 17, 2009 7:00 pm ford pinto shocks aren't going to work unless you make some mounts for them... you don't need new shocks for the front if doing torsion bar lowering the regular ones are fine... drop shocks are for drop spindles PEZi Moderator   Posts: 21021 Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2008 8:21 am Location: Pikes Peak, CO Car: Audi A4 Website Top Re: FN-QR (PEZi720) by keiffer671 » Sat Oct 24, 2009 12:28 am thanks i appreciate the info pezi keiffer671   Posts: 22 Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2009 2:45 am Car: 1981 DATSUN 720 Z22 Top Re: FN-QR (PEZi720) by jdamion » Fri Jan 15, 2010 12:31 am no need for new shocks if you put blocks on the rear end? jdamion   Posts: 54 Joined: Tue Jan 05, 2010 9:54 pm Car: 1980 Datsun Pickup Top Re: FN-QR (jdamion) by PEZi » Fri Jan 15, 2010 8:19 pm well... technically drop blocks and drop spindles both call for drop shocks as well i personally still run a regular type shock instead of the drop shock but its not exactly recommended PEZi Moderator   Posts: 21021 Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2008 8:21 am Location: Pikes Peak, CO Car: Audi A4 Website Top Re: (phlebmaster) by Charlie69 » Wed Jan 20, 2010 8:37 pm Should you start by jacking up the vehicle until the tires are off the ground and secure with jack stands? Is the picture of the re-indexed torsion bar 1 or 2 splines? Thank you for this it is a big help Modified by Charlie69 at 10:45 PM 1/20/2010 Charlie69   Posts: 236 Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2008 6:01 pm Location: Tolleson AZ Car: 1966 Datsun 520 Top FN-QR by PEZi » Sat Jan 23, 2010 7:41 pm yes... jack it up and secure with stands not sure about the pic... i've heard 2 splines is generally used for most applications of 3+ inches PEZi Moderator   Posts: 21021 Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2008 8:21 am Location: Pikes Peak, CO Car: Audi A4 Website Top Re: Torsion Bar lowering by kris127 » Tue Feb 28, 2012 1:09 pm this might be a dumb ? but i am getting ready to lower my 84 front with the T bar do i crank the bolts down to lower it or adjust the bolts up wards to lower it kris127   Posts: 7 Joined: Sat Feb 25, 2012 6:08 pm Car: datson pickup 1984 Top Display posts from previous: All posts1 day7 days2 weeks1 month3 months6 months1 year Sort by AuthorPost timeSubject AscendingDescending Post a reply 30 posts • Page 1 of 1 Return to Datsun Pickups General Chat Jump to: Select a forum ------------------ General Discussions    General Chat    Nissan Sport Magazine       Nissan Sport Magazine Forums          Nissan Sport Magazine Discussions          Nissan Sport - Project Vehicles          Nissan Sport - Car & Truck          Nissan Sport - Motorsports          Nissan Sport - First Takes          Nissan Sport - Events          Nissan Sport - Off Topic          Nissan Sport - DIY Tech          Nissan Sport Magazine Media          Nissan Sport - Classifieds Nissan Forums    240SX Forums | 180SX Forums | Silvia Forums       240sx General Discussion       240SX Technical Forum       240SX Convertible Forum    Z-Car Forums       Z-Series News and Events       350z / 370z Discussion       350z / 370z Technical       350z / 370z Classifieds       300ZX (Z32) General       300ZX (Z32) Technical       300ZX (Z32) Classifieds       Classic Z General       Classic Z Technical       Classic Z Classifieds    Altima Forum       Altima General Discussions       Altima Coupe       Altima Sedan          1st Generation Altima (1993 - 1997)          2nd Generation Altima (1998 - 2001)          3rd Generation Altima (2002-2006)          4th Generation Altima (2007 +)          Altima Hybrid       Altima Engine, Drivetrain & Tuning       Altima Suspension, Brakes, Rims and Tires       Altima Audio / Video       Altima Interior / Exterior    Maxima Forum & I30 / I35 Forum    Sentra Forum / Infiniti G20 Forum / NX Forum    GTR Forum / Skyline Forum    Versa Forum       Versa Owner Introductions       Versa General Chat       Versa Engine, Drivetrain and Tuning       Versa Interior Forum       Versa Exterior Forum       Versa Suspension, Brakes, Rims and Tires       Versa Audio / Video    Murano Forum    Cube Forum    Rogue Forum    Leaf Forum    Juke Forum | Qazana Forum    Quest Forum    Datsun Cars Forum    Others Infiniti Forums    G35 Forum, G37 Forum, G25 Forum       G35 and G37 General Discussions       G35 and G37 Engine, Drivetrain & Tuning       G35 and G37 Interior, Exterior and Audio       G35 and G37 Suspension, Brakes, Wheels and Tires       G37 Convertible Forum       G35 and G37 Modification database    Infiniti Q50 Forum    Infiniti M35, M37, M45, and M56 Forums    Q45 Forum / Cima Forum    J30 Forum / M30 Forum    EX35 and EX37 Forum    FX35 Forum / FX45 Forum / FX37 Forum / FX50 Forum    Infiniti JX35 Forum    VIP Forum Nissan / Infiniti Trucks and SUV Forums    Nissan Trucks Forum    Pathfinder Forum / QX4 Forum    Armada Forum / QX56 Forum    Datsun Pickup Trucks       Datsun Pickups General Chat       Datsun Trucks Classifieds       Datsun 320       Datsun 520 / 521       Datsun 620       Datsun 720 Technical    Engine Tuning    Nissan Tires, Wheels, Brakes and Suspension    Nissan Audio / Entertainment / Security    Interiors    Detailing Forum NICO Marketplace    Advertisers' Marketplace! 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[IMH]

I'm not certain but won't your method soften or stiffen the ride depending on which way you turn the bar?

[phlebmaster]

You are correct Stephen. :cool:

If you turn the bolts in you will stiffen the ride and raise the front end. The opposite is true when turning the bolts out. You will run into your rubber bump stoppers if you do not remove them, so be sure not to let your suspension ride directly on your frame.

[IMH]

I lowered my truck about 15 years ago.  I shortened the insulators and had my rear springs re arched.  No lowering blocks.  Mine could actually go lower but I like it how it is.  Both ends are lower than stock with a slight rake.  I actually have a rear sway bar on mine and it handles about as good as you'll ever get a 320 to handle without more extensive mods.

[phlebmaster]

Nice!

Do you have any recent pics of your 320?

[IMH]

The signature pic is only about 3-4 months old and nothing has been done to the truck since it was taken.

[phlebmaster]

IMH wrote:

Quote »

The signature pic is only about 3-4 months old and nothing has been done to the truck since it was taken.That is an incredible looking truck! : phlebmaster   Posts: 969 Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm Car: 1973 240z L26 4spd rip roar and ready to go! Top by famousyellowz » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm I do not think that the torsion will change at all when you turn the bar.  It's a bar spring and the indexing has nothing to do with it's ability to twist. In order to make it stiffer you would need to shorten it.  This can only be done one way without cuting it and relocating your rear mount points.  That would be to add splines (not really an option) and add another arm with splines that attach to the new spline location and the arm would need to bump up against a location onthe frame. I have this dual torsion set up on my hardbody.  The torsion bars were an option from the Nissan catalog.  It works normal unitl you put a load on the torsion bar and as it twists the additional arm will stop the bar from twisting from its location thus making the bar shorter between the A-arm and the rear torsion bar mount. famousyellowz   Posts: 59 Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm Top by phlebmaster » Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm famousyellowz wrote: Quote » I do not think that the torsion will change at all when you turn the bar.  It's a bar spring and the indexing has nothing to do with it's ability to twist. In order to make it stiffer you would need to shorten it.  This can only be done one way without cuting it and relocating your rear mount points.  That would be to add splines (not really an option) and add another arm with splines that attach to the new spline location and the arm would need to bump up against a location onthe frame. I have this dual torsion set up on my hardbody.  The torsion bars were an option from the Nissan catalog.  It works normal unitl you put a load on the torsion bar and as it twists the additional arm will stop the bar from twisting from its location thus making the bar shorter between the A-arm and the rear torsion bar mount. You are correct when it comes to re-indexing, and thanks for the input. But, as you twist the torsion bar the resistance is progressive. So...if you turn the bolts in and raise the front end, then you are changing the resistance at the end of the travel. You will have more force pushing back as you reach the end of your travel due to the nature of the torsion bar wanting to return to center. That is what I meant by stiffening up the suspension. lol :P phlebmaster   Posts: 969 Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm Car: 1973 240z L26 4spd rip roar and ready to go! Top Re: (phlebmaster) by Desert Rat » Tue Oct 28, 2008 9:48 am It's a common misconception that lowering/raising Tbars stiffens or softens the ride. It simply changes the ride height. The only way the ride stiffens or softens is via a different spring rate (meaning a different spring). Obviously I'm a 4x4 guy and am more concerned with lifting. Cranked tbars can make for a harsher ride due to the limited down travel and the frequency the UCA hits the bumpstop, and I'd assume the same holds true for adjustments in the other direction. Reindexing is a better method for adjustment than having the anchor hang below the crossmember, exposed to speed bumps, etc. Also, after any adjustment like this, you've at the very least affected the toe-in setting on your alighnment. If you have a buddy with a tape measure, you can adjust this back into spec with the right wrenches. Ideally you want around 1/8" of toe in on the smaller tired trucks. I'll be over in the Nissan trucks forum Desert Rat   Posts: 1493 Joined: Wed Jan 17, 2007 11:57 am Car: 1998 Frontier 4x4, 2007 Murano S AWD, 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab 4x4 Cummins, 2004 Suzuki VS800 Website Top Re: (Desert Rat) by phlebmaster » Tue Oct 28, 2008 10:08 am Nice! Thanks for the input, I will be trying the camber adjustment this weekend. phlebmaster   Posts: 969 Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm Car: 1973 240z L26 4spd rip roar and ready to go! Top Re: (Desert Rat) by famousyellowz » Fri Nov 21, 2008 12:45 pm I think that's what I was trying to say or what I was thinking. Actually, nissan did offer two-stage torsion bars. I had them on my 86.5 hardbody. They added another set of splines about a foot back from the front of the bar with another arm that allowed you to set your next level of spring if I can say that. It would allow you to have normal torsion or spring rate until the next arm hit the frame thus making your torsion bar only a foot or so long which increases your spring rate. famousyellowz   Posts: 59 Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm Top Re: (IMH) by PEZi » Wed Dec 17, 2008 9:41 pm longer bolts... that's it? PEZi Moderator   Posts: 21021 Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2008 8:21 am Location: Pikes Peak, CO Car: Audi A4 Website Top by Old Rob » Mon May 18, 2009 7:03 pm Having the spring eyes reversed will drop the rear approx 2" without any change in ride or load capacity. Then use a block to get your final height. Check your driveline angles. Be sure any changes in height to check your bump stops and adjust them. Do not just remove them. That rubber block keeps the suspension from banging. The banging can shorten the life of the suspension components and is extremely annoying. Old Rob   Posts: 11 Joined: Thu Apr 16, 2009 8:33 pm Location: Orange County, CA Top by keiffer671 » Sun Oct 11, 2009 2:07 am question?? if goin with the torsion bar lowering. would it be wise to change the shocks to smaller ones or will stock shocks be enough to do the job? if it were to be changed any suggestions on drop shocks, any brand come to mind. also i heard of guys using ford pinto shocks for nissan 720. will this work or an 81 reg cab keiffer671   Posts: 22 Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2009 2:45 am Car: 1981 DATSUN 720 Z22 Top FN-QR by PEZi » Sat Oct 17, 2009 7:00 pm ford pinto shocks aren't going to work unless you make some mounts for them... you don't need new shocks for the front if doing torsion bar lowering the regular ones are fine... drop shocks are for drop spindles PEZi Moderator   Posts: 21021 Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2008 8:21 am Location: Pikes Peak, CO Car: Audi A4 Website Top Re: FN-QR (PEZi720) by keiffer671 » Sat Oct 24, 2009 12:28 am thanks i appreciate the info pezi keiffer671   Posts: 22 Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2009 2:45 am Car: 1981 DATSUN 720 Z22 Top Re: FN-QR (PEZi720) by jdamion » Fri Jan 15, 2010 12:31 am no need for new shocks if you put blocks on the rear end? jdamion   Posts: 54 Joined: Tue Jan 05, 2010 9:54 pm Car: 1980 Datsun Pickup Top Re: FN-QR (jdamion) by PEZi » Fri Jan 15, 2010 8:19 pm well... technically drop blocks and drop spindles both call for drop shocks as well i personally still run a regular type shock instead of the drop shock but its not exactly recommended PEZi Moderator   Posts: 21021 Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2008 8:21 am Location: Pikes Peak, CO Car: Audi A4 Website Top Re: (phlebmaster) by Charlie69 » Wed Jan 20, 2010 8:37 pm Should you start by jacking up the vehicle until the tires are off the ground and secure with jack stands? Is the picture of the re-indexed torsion bar 1 or 2 splines? Thank you for this it is a big help Modified by Charlie69 at 10:45 PM 1/20/2010 Charlie69   Posts: 236 Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2008 6:01 pm Location: Tolleson AZ Car: 1966 Datsun 520 Top FN-QR by PEZi » Sat Jan 23, 2010 7:41 pm yes... jack it up and secure with stands not sure about the pic... i've heard 2 splines is generally used for most applications of 3+ inches PEZi Moderator   Posts: 21021 Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2008 8:21 am Location: Pikes Peak, CO Car: Audi A4 Website Top Re: Torsion Bar lowering by kris127 » Tue Feb 28, 2012 1:09 pm this might be a dumb ? but i am getting ready to lower my 84 front with the T bar do i crank the bolts down to lower it or adjust the bolts up wards to lower it kris127   Posts: 7 Joined: Sat Feb 25, 2012 6:08 pm Car: datson pickup 1984 Top Display posts from previous: All posts1 day7 days2 weeks1 month3 months6 months1 year Sort by AuthorPost timeSubject AscendingDescending Post a reply 30 posts • Page 1 of 1 Return to Datsun Pickups General Chat Jump to: Select a forum ------------------ General Discussions    General Chat    Nissan Sport Magazine       Nissan Sport Magazine Forums          Nissan Sport Magazine Discussions          Nissan Sport - Project Vehicles          Nissan Sport - Car & Truck          Nissan Sport - Motorsports          Nissan Sport - First Takes          Nissan Sport - Events          Nissan Sport - Off Topic          Nissan Sport - DIY Tech          Nissan Sport Magazine Media          Nissan Sport - Classifieds Nissan Forums    240SX Forums | 180SX Forums | Silvia Forums       240sx General Discussion       240SX Technical Forum       240SX Convertible Forum    Z-Car Forums       Z-Series News and Events       350z / 370z Discussion       350z / 370z Technical       350z / 370z Classifieds       300ZX (Z32) General       300ZX (Z32) Technical       300ZX (Z32) Classifieds       Classic Z General       Classic Z Technical       Classic Z Classifieds    Altima Forum       Altima General Discussions       Altima Coupe       Altima Sedan          1st Generation Altima (1993 - 1997)          2nd Generation Altima (1998 - 2001)          3rd Generation Altima (2002-2006)          4th Generation Altima (2007 +)          Altima Hybrid       Altima Engine, Drivetrain & Tuning       Altima Suspension, Brakes, Rims and Tires       Altima Audio / Video       Altima Interior / Exterior    Maxima Forum & I30 / I35 Forum    Sentra Forum / Infiniti G20 Forum / NX Forum    GTR Forum / Skyline Forum    Versa Forum       Versa Owner Introductions       Versa General Chat       Versa Engine, Drivetrain and Tuning       Versa Interior Forum       Versa Exterior Forum       Versa Suspension, Brakes, Rims and Tires       Versa Audio / Video    Murano Forum    Cube Forum    Rogue Forum    Leaf Forum    Juke Forum | Qazana Forum    Quest Forum    Datsun Cars Forum    Others Infiniti Forums    G35 Forum, G37 Forum, G25 Forum       G35 and G37 General Discussions       G35 and G37 Engine, Drivetrain & Tuning       G35 and G37 Interior, Exterior and Audio       G35 and G37 Suspension, Brakes, Wheels and Tires       G37 Convertible Forum       G35 and G37 Modification database    Infiniti Q50 Forum    Infiniti M35, M37, M45, and M56 Forums    Q45 Forum / Cima Forum    J30 Forum / M30 Forum    EX35 and EX37 Forum    FX35 Forum / FX45 Forum / FX37 Forum / FX50 Forum    Infiniti JX35 Forum    VIP Forum Nissan / Infiniti Trucks and SUV Forums    Nissan Trucks Forum    Pathfinder Forum / QX4 Forum    Armada Forum / QX56 Forum    Datsun Pickup Trucks       Datsun Pickups General Chat       Datsun Trucks Classifieds       Datsun 320       Datsun 520 / 521       Datsun 620       Datsun 720 Technical    Engine Tuning    Nissan Tires, Wheels, Brakes and Suspension    Nissan Audio / Entertainment / Security    Interiors    Detailing Forum NICO Marketplace    Advertisers' Marketplace! 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[famousyellowz]

I do not think that the torsion will change at all when you turn the bar.  It's a bar spring and the indexing has nothing to do with it's ability to twist.

In order to make it stiffer you would need to shorten it.  This can only be done one way without cuting it and relocating your rear mount points.  That would be to add splines (not really an option) and add another arm with splines that attach to the new spline location and the arm would need to bump up against a location onthe frame.

I have this dual torsion set up on my hardbody.  The torsion bars were an option from the Nissan catalog.  It works normal unitl you put a load on the torsion bar and as it twists the additional arm will stop the bar from twisting from its location thus making the bar shorter between the A-arm and the rear torsion bar mount.

[phlebmaster]

famousyellowz wrote:

Quote »

I do not think that the torsion will change at all when you turn the bar.  It's a bar spring and the indexing has nothing to do with it's ability to twist. In order to make it stiffer you would need to shorten it.  This can only be done one way without cuting it and relocating your rear mount points.  That would be to add splines (not really an option) and add another arm with splines that attach to the new spline location and the arm would need to bump up against a location onthe frame. I have this dual torsion set up on my hardbody.  The torsion bars were an option from the Nissan catalog.  It works normal unitl you put a load on the torsion bar and as it twists the additional arm will stop the bar from twisting from its location thus making the bar shorter between the A-arm and the rear torsion bar mount. You are correct when it comes to re-indexing, and thanks for the input. But, as you twist the torsion bar the resistance is progressive. So...if you turn the bolts in and raise the front end, then you are changing the resistance at the end of the travel. You will have more force pushing back as you reach the end of your travel due to the nature of the torsion bar wanting to return to center. That is what I meant by stiffening up the suspension. lol :P phlebmaster   Posts: 969 Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm Car: 1973 240z L26 4spd rip roar and ready to go! Top Re: (phlebmaster) by Desert Rat » Tue Oct 28, 2008 9:48 am It's a common misconception that lowering/raising Tbars stiffens or softens the ride. It simply changes the ride height. The only way the ride stiffens or softens is via a different spring rate (meaning a different spring). Obviously I'm a 4x4 guy and am more concerned with lifting. Cranked tbars can make for a harsher ride due to the limited down travel and the frequency the UCA hits the bumpstop, and I'd assume the same holds true for adjustments in the other direction. Reindexing is a better method for adjustment than having the anchor hang below the crossmember, exposed to speed bumps, etc. Also, after any adjustment like this, you've at the very least affected the toe-in setting on your alighnment. If you have a buddy with a tape measure, you can adjust this back into spec with the right wrenches. Ideally you want around 1/8" of toe in on the smaller tired trucks. I'll be over in the Nissan trucks forum Desert Rat   Posts: 1493 Joined: Wed Jan 17, 2007 11:57 am Car: 1998 Frontier 4x4, 2007 Murano S AWD, 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab 4x4 Cummins, 2004 Suzuki VS800 Website Top Re: (Desert Rat) by phlebmaster » Tue Oct 28, 2008 10:08 am Nice! Thanks for the input, I will be trying the camber adjustment this weekend. phlebmaster   Posts: 969 Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm Car: 1973 240z L26 4spd rip roar and ready to go! Top Re: (Desert Rat) by famousyellowz » Fri Nov 21, 2008 12:45 pm I think that's what I was trying to say or what I was thinking. Actually, nissan did offer two-stage torsion bars. I had them on my 86.5 hardbody. They added another set of splines about a foot back from the front of the bar with another arm that allowed you to set your next level of spring if I can say that. It would allow you to have normal torsion or spring rate until the next arm hit the frame thus making your torsion bar only a foot or so long which increases your spring rate. famousyellowz   Posts: 59 Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm Top Re: (IMH) by PEZi » Wed Dec 17, 2008 9:41 pm longer bolts... that's it? PEZi Moderator   Posts: 21021 Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2008 8:21 am Location: Pikes Peak, CO Car: Audi A4 Website Top by Old Rob » Mon May 18, 2009 7:03 pm Having the spring eyes reversed will drop the rear approx 2" without any change in ride or load capacity. Then use a block to get your final height. Check your driveline angles. Be sure any changes in height to check your bump stops and adjust them. Do not just remove them. That rubber block keeps the suspension from banging. The banging can shorten the life of the suspension components and is extremely annoying. Old Rob   Posts: 11 Joined: Thu Apr 16, 2009 8:33 pm Location: Orange County, CA Top by keiffer671 » Sun Oct 11, 2009 2:07 am question?? if goin with the torsion bar lowering. would it be wise to change the shocks to smaller ones or will stock shocks be enough to do the job? if it were to be changed any suggestions on drop shocks, any brand come to mind. also i heard of guys using ford pinto shocks for nissan 720. will this work or an 81 reg cab keiffer671   Posts: 22 Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2009 2:45 am Car: 1981 DATSUN 720 Z22 Top FN-QR by PEZi » Sat Oct 17, 2009 7:00 pm ford pinto shocks aren't going to work unless you make some mounts for them... you don't need new shocks for the front if doing torsion bar lowering the regular ones are fine... drop shocks are for drop spindles PEZi Moderator   Posts: 21021 Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2008 8:21 am Location: Pikes Peak, CO Car: Audi A4 Website Top Re: FN-QR (PEZi720) by keiffer671 » Sat Oct 24, 2009 12:28 am thanks i appreciate the info pezi keiffer671   Posts: 22 Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2009 2:45 am Car: 1981 DATSUN 720 Z22 Top Re: FN-QR (PEZi720) by jdamion » Fri Jan 15, 2010 12:31 am no need for new shocks if you put blocks on the rear end? jdamion   Posts: 54 Joined: Tue Jan 05, 2010 9:54 pm Car: 1980 Datsun Pickup Top Re: FN-QR (jdamion) by PEZi » Fri Jan 15, 2010 8:19 pm well... technically drop blocks and drop spindles both call for drop shocks as well i personally still run a regular type shock instead of the drop shock but its not exactly recommended PEZi Moderator   Posts: 21021 Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2008 8:21 am Location: Pikes Peak, CO Car: Audi A4 Website Top Re: (phlebmaster) by Charlie69 » Wed Jan 20, 2010 8:37 pm Should you start by jacking up the vehicle until the tires are off the ground and secure with jack stands? Is the picture of the re-indexed torsion bar 1 or 2 splines? Thank you for this it is a big help Modified by Charlie69 at 10:45 PM 1/20/2010 Charlie69   Posts: 236 Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2008 6:01 pm Location: Tolleson AZ Car: 1966 Datsun 520 Top FN-QR by PEZi » Sat Jan 23, 2010 7:41 pm yes... jack it up and secure with stands not sure about the pic... i've heard 2 splines is generally used for most applications of 3+ inches PEZi Moderator   Posts: 21021 Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2008 8:21 am Location: Pikes Peak, CO Car: Audi A4 Website Top Re: Torsion Bar lowering by kris127 » Tue Feb 28, 2012 1:09 pm this might be a dumb ? but i am getting ready to lower my 84 front with the T bar do i crank the bolts down to lower it or adjust the bolts up wards to lower it kris127   Posts: 7 Joined: Sat Feb 25, 2012 6:08 pm Car: datson pickup 1984 Top Display posts from previous: All posts1 day7 days2 weeks1 month3 months6 months1 year Sort by AuthorPost timeSubject AscendingDescending Post a reply 30 posts • Page 1 of 1 Return to Datsun Pickups General Chat Jump to: Select a forum ------------------ General Discussions    General Chat    Nissan Sport Magazine       Nissan Sport Magazine Forums          Nissan Sport Magazine Discussions          Nissan Sport - Project Vehicles          Nissan Sport - Car & Truck          Nissan Sport - Motorsports          Nissan Sport - First Takes          Nissan Sport - Events          Nissan Sport - Off Topic          Nissan Sport - DIY Tech          Nissan Sport Magazine Media          Nissan Sport - Classifieds Nissan Forums    240SX Forums | 180SX Forums | Silvia Forums       240sx General Discussion       240SX Technical Forum       240SX Convertible Forum    Z-Car Forums       Z-Series News and Events       350z / 370z Discussion       350z / 370z Technical       350z / 370z Classifieds       300ZX (Z32) General       300ZX (Z32) Technical       300ZX (Z32) Classifieds       Classic Z General       Classic Z Technical       Classic Z Classifieds    Altima Forum       Altima General Discussions       Altima Coupe       Altima Sedan          1st Generation Altima (1993 - 1997)          2nd Generation Altima (1998 - 2001)          3rd Generation Altima (2002-2006)          4th Generation Altima (2007 +)          Altima Hybrid       Altima Engine, Drivetrain & Tuning       Altima Suspension, Brakes, Rims and Tires       Altima Audio / Video       Altima Interior / Exterior    Maxima Forum & I30 / I35 Forum    Sentra Forum / Infiniti G20 Forum / NX Forum    GTR Forum / Skyline Forum    Versa Forum       Versa Owner Introductions       Versa General Chat       Versa Engine, Drivetrain and Tuning       Versa Interior Forum       Versa Exterior Forum       Versa Suspension, Brakes, Rims and Tires       Versa Audio / Video    Murano Forum    Cube Forum    Rogue Forum    Leaf Forum    Juke Forum | Qazana Forum    Quest Forum    Datsun Cars Forum    Others Infiniti Forums    G35 Forum, G37 Forum, G25 Forum       G35 and G37 General Discussions       G35 and G37 Engine, Drivetrain & Tuning       G35 and G37 Interior, Exterior and Audio       G35 and G37 Suspension, Brakes, Wheels and Tires       G37 Convertible Forum       G35 and G37 Modification database    Infiniti Q50 Forum    Infiniti M35, M37, M45, and M56 Forums    Q45 Forum / Cima Forum    J30 Forum / M30 Forum    EX35 and EX37 Forum    FX35 Forum / FX45 Forum / FX37 Forum / FX50 Forum    Infiniti JX35 Forum    VIP Forum Nissan / Infiniti Trucks and SUV Forums    Nissan Trucks Forum    Pathfinder Forum / QX4 Forum    Armada Forum / QX56 Forum    Datsun Pickup Trucks       Datsun Pickups General Chat       Datsun Trucks Classifieds       Datsun 320       Datsun 520 / 521       Datsun 620       Datsun 720 Technical    Engine Tuning    Nissan Tires, Wheels, Brakes and Suspension    Nissan Audio / Entertainment / Security    Interiors    Detailing Forum NICO Marketplace    Advertisers' Marketplace! 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[Desert Rat]

It's a common misconception that lowering/raising Tbars stiffens or softens the ride. It simply changes the ride height. The only way the ride stiffens or softens is via a different spring rate (meaning a different spring).

Obviously I'm a 4x4 guy and am more concerned with lifting. Cranked tbars can make for a harsher ride due to the limited down travel and the frequency the UCA hits the bumpstop, and I'd assume the same holds true for adjustments in the other direction. Reindexing is a better method for adjustment than having the anchor hang below the crossmember, exposed to speed bumps, etc.

Also, after any adjustment like this, you've at the very least affected the toe-in setting on your alighnment. If you have a buddy with a tape measure, you can adjust this back into spec with the right wrenches. Ideally you want around 1/8" of toe in on the smaller tired trucks.

I'll be over in the Nissan trucks forum

[phlebmaster]

Nice!

Thanks for the input, I will be trying the camber adjustment this weekend.

[famousyellowz]

I think that's what I was trying to say or what I was thinking.

Actually, nissan did offer two-stage torsion bars. I had them on my 86.5 hardbody. They added another set of splines about a foot back from the front of the bar with another arm that allowed you to set your next level of spring if I can say that.

It would allow you to have normal torsion or spring rate until the next arm hit the frame thus making your torsion bar only a foot or so long which increases your spring rate.

[PEZi]

longer bolts... that's it?

[Old Rob]

Having the spring eyes reversed will drop the rear approx 2" without any change in ride or load capacity. Then use a block to get your final height. Check your driveline angles.
Be sure any changes in height to check your bump stops and adjust them. Do not just remove them. That rubber block keeps the suspension from banging. The banging can shorten the life of the suspension components and is extremely annoying.

[keiffer671]

question??

if goin with the torsion bar lowering. would it be wise to change the shocks to smaller ones or will stock shocks be enough to do the job? if it were to be changed any suggestions on drop shocks, any brand come to mind. also i heard of guys using ford pinto shocks for nissan 720. will this work or an 81 reg cab

[PEZi]

ford pinto shocks aren't going to work unless you make some mounts for them...

you don't need new shocks for the front if doing torsion bar lowering the regular ones are fine... drop shocks are for drop spindles

[keiffer671]

thanks i appreciate the info pezi

[jdamion]

no need for new shocks if you put blocks on the rear end?

[PEZi]

well... technically drop blocks and drop spindles both call for drop shocks as well

i personally still run a regular type shock instead of the drop shock but its not exactly recommended

[Charlie69]

Should you start by jacking up the vehicle until the tires are off the ground and secure with jack stands?

Is the picture of the re-indexed torsion bar 1 or 2 splines?

Thank you for this it is a big help




Modified by Charlie69 at 10:45 PM 1/20/2010

[PEZi]

yes... jack it up and secure with stands

not sure about the pic... i've heard 2 splines is generally used for most applications of 3+ inches

[kris127]

this might be a dumb ? but i am getting ready to lower my 84 front with the T bar do i crank the bolts down to lower it or adjust the bolts up wards to lower it