I copied this over from the racebread convo since I've got a lot of questions about it. I will add to it as more comes along. The wiring I have mostly figured out, and now me and Darius are comparing notes to find the best way to make everything work, so one of us will post up the wiring info as soon as completed.
here are a few quick pics.
the line on the left (labeled as 1) is the stock S14 line, the line on the right (labeled as II) is the RB hose that was cut when I got the compressor so I don't know if it would work if it were complete But anyways... as you can imagine I am going to have the two lines connected with 6.5 inches of rubber in between.
zoomed out (pay no attention to the dirt )
Now B is the long line that runs behind the head along the firewall. I think it will work with just swapping the ends for the rb compressor, but it would be a little close to the exhaust for my taste. I think the best option would be when you swap the rb end on A just have them add more hose on that end. In the pic the stock s14 line B has a muffler on it, which I think I will eliminate and just have the RB end A welded on.
zoomed in
Now the 3rd line on the passenger side runs the from the s14 condenser to the S14 firewall so it doesn't need to be modified, just bent by hand a little. I have a greddy manifold so I had to bend it a little more to push the drier down beside the frame rail. I do not have pics of this right now but the line bends very easily and can easily be figured out. **Remember the drier has to be replaced if your ac system has been opened for more then 24 hours, which is most of us. I do not think they are serviceable but I will confirm later this week when I talk to the shop.
**EDIT**I now have the AC lines welded up (as described above) and everything fits perfectly. I will have pics of them up soon!Hope these help guys more to come on the wiring and the lines.
Keeping A/C on an S14 RB25
Re: Keeping A/C on an S14 RB25 (300Plus)
random question - do you know if the rb20det ac comp. and bracket will work on the rb25det? I will be watching this thread VERY closely, as i live in TX and summer with no ac SUCKS!
Re: (blurrbosi)
haha ^^ very true. AC got pushed to the back burner due to other problems (you guys know how that goes). And yea thats all I had done was connect the ka and rb lines. In the above post I was showing how the KA AC lines line up but just need the right (RB) ends and maybe some extension (a few inches).blurrbosi wrote:Finally you start on your AC. You have been talking about since I joined. All I did was weld the RB ends on my KA lines.
Re: (300Plus)
Think we got it all figured out. even control of your E fans so they correctly turn on when needed and not when not needed. Darius is working on the diagram for the 97 S14 and I'm working on the 95 s14 wiring (they are a little different)
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lazyboi444
- Posts: 169
- Joined: Sun Nov 05, 2006 6:33 am
- Car: 240sx Hatchback
Re: (300Plus)
What about us with the S13's lol.
Re: Keeping A/C on an S14 RB25 (300Plus)
wiring done, hope to have the system charged saturday for the official test
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cdorhout
- Posts: 344
- Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 10:15 am
- Car: RB30DET with VCT -- SOLD!!!!
Next project TBD
Re: Keeping A/C on an S14 RB25 (300Plus)
How much did the new dryer cost you? I'm sure you got it at a Nissan dealership, right?
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lazyboi444
- Posts: 169
- Joined: Sun Nov 05, 2006 6:33 am
- Car: 240sx Hatchback
Re: Keeping A/C on an S14 RB25 (cdorhout)
Hey are you gonna do a write up of this? Of the wiring i mean...
Re: Keeping A/C on an S14 RB25 (lazyboi444)
I got the dryer and the lines modified at a local car quest cost right around $100 for the lines, dryer, and some added heat sheilding just to be safe.
The wiring write up will be very simple 4 wires total I think. but yes once I confirm my wiring is correct I'll post results
(also got a ka power steering pump to bolt up to the rb25 lines right up )
The wiring write up will be very simple 4 wires total I think. but yes once I confirm my wiring is correct I'll post results
(also got a ka power steering pump to bolt up to the rb25 lines right up )
Re: (blurrbosi)
My rb pump had a bent pulley. But of coarse the rb pwr steering pump would work with the rb compressor.
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lazyboi444
- Posts: 169
- Joined: Sun Nov 05, 2006 6:33 am
- Car: 240sx Hatchback
Re: Keeping A/C on an S14 RB25 (300Plus)
WOW that is really cheap....Are you talkin bout car quest that deliver parts? Well i hope to see pictures of the finished product soon....Good look and thanks.300Plus wrote:I got the dryer and the lines modified at a local car quest cost right around $100 for the lines, dryer, and some added heat sheilding just to be safe.
The wiring write up will be very simple 4 wires total I think. but yes once I confirm my wiring is correct I'll post results
(also got a ka power steering pump to bolt up to the rb25 lines right up )
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Darius
- Posts: 4820
- Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 9:48 am
- Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
- Location: Chicagoland
Re: (300Plus)
Did you get a chance to review the wiring schematic that I e-mailed you for the '97?
Re: (Darius)
So... Where's the bloody wiring diagram???
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Darius
- Posts: 4820
- Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 9:48 am
- Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
- Location: Chicagoland
Re: (Bwana)
I wired mine up but I didn't see 12V power at the compressor and I think the reason is because I don't have a pressurized system.
Re: (Darius)
same here. everything is wired just haven't had time to evac and charge the system so the triple pressure switch wont kick the compressor on. I hope to take care of that this weekend... just keep having other (none A/C)issues pop up and hold me back. I'll post up as soon as I confirm, I promise lol
Re: (300Plus)
Awesome. I'm just waiting to get the a/c figured out on mine before I put the harness in. I've been trying to get Carl to help, but he's too dang lazy...
Re: (Bwana)
Ohhhh K got it figure out
last night I put a jumper wire in the plug for the triple pressure switch (since my system isn't charged yet) and did the little bit of rewiring and bam she works. I can hear the magnets engaging in the clutch on the compressor and I accidentally hit the button with motor running and it spit compressor oil out of the other end of the condenser lol. I have that short line off since the drier is going to go on a few mins before we evac the system.
Its so simple, even simpler then me and Darius talked about But my main concern was/is making sure the computer idles up when the AC is on. I have a consult cable and data scan software and with this wiring the computer does recognize the AC relay has been engaged! which is an awesome thing. There is a little window on the software that shows certain computer monitored switches (like the neutral position switch) and the "AC relay" window clicks from off to on when the button is pressed! I'm 95% sure that since it recognizes the relay is on, it will send the appropriate signal to the FICD to control the idle.
I will be recharging the AC tonight! so I will confirm that the idle is properly controlled, before I post.
But just to tell you it involves 3 wires inside the car and you have to swap the plug on the end of the compressor power wire, since the KA and RB compressor are different. and thats it! well if you want you Electric fans to be kicked on and off like the stock setup would (recommended) then it will be two more wires lol but thats all.
**Check with an AC expert on how much and what kind of lubricating oil to put in the system. I grabbed an 8 ounce can/bottle of "Nissan spec" lubricating oil from the local discount auto parts and was told by a few local AC shops to put about 6 ounces in the compressor before bolting up the lines. I checked with the 240sx FSM (since this is missing from the Skyline FSM) and it says to put 2 ounces in the condenser and and another 2 ounces in the evaporator aswell (for thermal heat exchange) and since I couldn't confirm the amount of oil that goes in the compressor I just went with the 6 ounces... hope I'm right. If you get too much oil your AC won't blow cold and if you get not enough you will burn up the compressor. If anyone else can speak more educatedly on this please chim in.
last night I put a jumper wire in the plug for the triple pressure switch (since my system isn't charged yet) and did the little bit of rewiring and bam she works. I can hear the magnets engaging in the clutch on the compressor and I accidentally hit the button with motor running and it spit compressor oil out of the other end of the condenser lol. I have that short line off since the drier is going to go on a few mins before we evac the system.
Its so simple, even simpler then me and Darius talked about But my main concern was/is making sure the computer idles up when the AC is on. I have a consult cable and data scan software and with this wiring the computer does recognize the AC relay has been engaged! which is an awesome thing. There is a little window on the software that shows certain computer monitored switches (like the neutral position switch) and the "AC relay" window clicks from off to on when the button is pressed! I'm 95% sure that since it recognizes the relay is on, it will send the appropriate signal to the FICD to control the idle.
I will be recharging the AC tonight! so I will confirm that the idle is properly controlled, before I post.
But just to tell you it involves 3 wires inside the car and you have to swap the plug on the end of the compressor power wire, since the KA and RB compressor are different. and thats it! well if you want you Electric fans to be kicked on and off like the stock setup would (recommended) then it will be two more wires lol but thats all.
**Check with an AC expert on how much and what kind of lubricating oil to put in the system. I grabbed an 8 ounce can/bottle of "Nissan spec" lubricating oil from the local discount auto parts and was told by a few local AC shops to put about 6 ounces in the compressor before bolting up the lines. I checked with the 240sx FSM (since this is missing from the Skyline FSM) and it says to put 2 ounces in the condenser and and another 2 ounces in the evaporator aswell (for thermal heat exchange) and since I couldn't confirm the amount of oil that goes in the compressor I just went with the 6 ounces... hope I'm right. If you get too much oil your AC won't blow cold and if you get not enough you will burn up the compressor. If anyone else can speak more educatedly on this please chim in.
Re: (300Plus)
Diagram...
Re: (Bwana)
I want to confirm everything before putting false info out on the net
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cdorhout
- Posts: 344
- Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 10:15 am
- Car: RB30DET with VCT -- SOLD!!!!
Next project TBD
Re: (300Plus)
How about some pics of how you mounted the drier around your cold pipe. I see in your sig that you're not running a stock intake mani. I'm running a greddy intake, and it puts the cold pipe right in the way of the drier.
Please???
Please???
Re: (cdorhout)
will mount the drier tonight thats waiting until right before I vac down the system. But I using the stock lines to and from the drier just bent them around. I am now running a greddy manifold and I know what you mean about space but I've got it where it'll sit pretty low almost touching the lower rad hose. which I don't like the idea of but aslong as they don't touch I should be good.
I'll take pics of the entire setup the whole engine bay with details to the lines and drier placement. so I can post them with the confirmed wiring
I'll take pics of the entire setup the whole engine bay with details to the lines and drier placement. so I can post them with the confirmed wiring
Re: (blurrbosi)
ok guys I have cold AC
I really don't have time to post pics of details but here is the basic how to. really simple...
If you check the back of the F4 plug (the car side) there are two wires you need...
AC Cabin switch - Yellow w/ black stripe
Wire to the Triple pressure switch - Black w/ pink stripe
And on the M63 side of the plug (the ecu side) you need one wire
The wire to pin 46 on the ECU - Pink
now here is the way I did...
Pull all 3 wires out of the M63 or F4 plug... They will all 3 need to be connected together.
I used a spade connector and on one side of the connector put the yellow/black wire and the black/pink wire together, and then on the other side of the connector I put the Pink wire.
its pretty simple setup. basically the KA ecu had a bunch of complicated wiring to the ecu for the AC, and the RB was much simpler.
The yellow/black wire is a switched ground. when you push the AC button no the climate controls in, the wire becomes grounded. The Black/pink wire is the ground side of the AC relay (the coil side) which first goes through the triple pressure switch, if the pressure is just right (not to high or too low) the pressure switch will close and let the grounded signal reach the relay to click power on to the compressor. And the Pink wire that goes to pin 46 on the RB25 ecu is what tells the ecu the compressor is on. the ECU is looking for a ground at pin 46, so when you push the ac button and ground all 3 wires it sees the correct signal and registers as "AC relay on".
I typed this in a hurry guys, sorry if it is unclear. I have pictures and videos that I will post up asap. let me know if that helps!
I really don't have time to post pics of details but here is the basic how to. really simple...
If you check the back of the F4 plug (the car side) there are two wires you need...
AC Cabin switch - Yellow w/ black stripe
Wire to the Triple pressure switch - Black w/ pink stripe
And on the M63 side of the plug (the ecu side) you need one wire
The wire to pin 46 on the ECU - Pink
now here is the way I did...
Pull all 3 wires out of the M63 or F4 plug... They will all 3 need to be connected together.
I used a spade connector and on one side of the connector put the yellow/black wire and the black/pink wire together, and then on the other side of the connector I put the Pink wire.
its pretty simple setup. basically the KA ecu had a bunch of complicated wiring to the ecu for the AC, and the RB was much simpler.
The yellow/black wire is a switched ground. when you push the AC button no the climate controls in, the wire becomes grounded. The Black/pink wire is the ground side of the AC relay (the coil side) which first goes through the triple pressure switch, if the pressure is just right (not to high or too low) the pressure switch will close and let the grounded signal reach the relay to click power on to the compressor. And the Pink wire that goes to pin 46 on the RB25 ecu is what tells the ecu the compressor is on. the ECU is looking for a ground at pin 46, so when you push the ac button and ground all 3 wires it sees the correct signal and registers as "AC relay on".
I typed this in a hurry guys, sorry if it is unclear. I have pictures and videos that I will post up asap. let me know if that helps!
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digzsublime
- Posts: 185
- Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2005 3:40 pm
- Car: 95 S14 w/ LS1.
Re: (300Plus)
Fackin' SWEET. Good job. Thanks for the info. This will save me a great deal of time when I to that point with my coupe. THANK YOU!
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JPsNissans
- Posts: 125
- Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2007 4:49 pm
- Car: 04' SE-R Spec V, 95' S14 240sx
Re: (blurrbosi)
You are the man. I will certainly give this a try when I get mine going, my shell has all A/C components just hanging there.
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lazyboi444
- Posts: 169
- Joined: Sun Nov 05, 2006 6:33 am
- Car: 240sx Hatchback
Re: (JPsNissans)
THANK YOU JESUS....THIS NEEDS TO BE A STICKY....THIS IS LIKE XMAS AS AN 8 year old...WHEN YOU FOUND OUT HOW MUCH **** YOU GOT FOR XMAS. LMAO....GOOD JOB 300 PLUS.
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