To members that had a wheel Hub/bearing replaced on the M.

[SplitsenseM35]

I been searching and it seems the front wheel bearings is a common problem with our cars. Some members had them replaced whether out of pocket or under factory warranty. I am having the symptoms of a failing bearing, my 2008 sport M has 77K miles with the 19IN wheels - slight grinding/squeaking sounds around 25 MPH that get louder while making turns.

OC Infiniti is selling the part for $147 each which is pretty reasonable compared to the dealer. My question: Would it be wise to just change out both of them instead of the ONE making noise? Do both of them fail eventually? If that’s the case I might as well replace both sides since I am doing a full suspension upgrade soon. Or is this something that affects only some M. Since I won’t be doing the repair myself and paying a tech to install a full coilover set. I want to see if i can save $147 and get away with just replacing the bad one....

Thanks in advance.

[SmoovC]

2006 M45, I replaced both of mine at 60,000 miles. It was under $500 for both sides parts and labor; seemed like the right thing to do, and cheap insurance. Had it done at the same time as the H-Techs & KYB's.

If upgrading your suspension, that would be the time to do it, as it is already apart.

[merlinq2]

Both and do it when you have your suspension being worked on, 95% of the parts you need to remove will be removed when you install the coil overs. Not work trying to save money. If one is going then the other one will fail soon after.

A coil over mod- is already significant $$$- a wheel bearing is inexpensive - but it is also a safety thing- hate to loose a wheel bearing while you are driving your sweet handling M hard through a corner------------get it!

Make sure your tires are always properly balanced, most wheel bearing fail as they are trying to deal with an out balance wheel.

[SplitsenseM35]

2006 M45, I replaced both of mine at 60,000 miles. It was under $500 for both sides parts and labor; seemed like the right thing to do, and cheap insurance.

Is that dealer prices? not bad for parts and labor if it was indeed the dealer. I heard its usually 500 for just one side.

[SmoovC]

2006 M45, I replaced both of mine at 60,000 miles. It was under $500 for both sides parts and labor; seemed like the right thing to do, and cheap insurance.

Is that dealer prices? not bad for parts and labor if it was indeed the dealer. I heard its usually 500 for just one side.

Yes, that was at the Dealer, although the Nissan Dealer, not Infiniti, and was done with other work at the same time: H-Techs and KYB's.

[DeanM45]

Hub assemblies are really easy to replace, especially if you are doing a brake job. Remove speed sensor and then the four bolts on the back of the spindle. Reverse to install. I recommend that both be replaced at the same time. A couple of sellers have them on EBAY for ~$130/each (there is no right or left, it is same part). AWD bearings are different from RWD. If you are going to do anything with spacers on the rims now would be a good time to put in longer lug bolts on the new hubs.

[SplitsenseM35]

[quote="DeanM45"]Hub assemblies are really easy to replace, especially if you are doing a brake job. Remove speed sensor and then the four bolts on the back of the spindle. Reverse to install. I recommend that both be replaced at the same time. A couple of sellers have them on EBAY for ~$130/each (there is no right or left, it is same part). AWD bearings are different from RWD. If you are going to do anything with spacers on the rims now would be a good time to put in longer lug bolts on the new hubs.[/quote

Thanks, I just picked up 2 hubs from OC infiniti for 147 each side. How much labor is required for the install? I am Not tech inclined so I will be paying someone for installation.

[DeanM45]

No more than 1 1/2 hours total.
1) Remove 5 lug nuts and wheel
2) Remove brake caliper (two bolts)
3) Remove caliper bracket w/brake pads (2 bolts)
4) Remove brake rotor
5) Remove speed sensor from hub (1 bolt)
6) Remove four hub bolts on back of spindle
7) Remove hub

Reverse to install.

It took me about an hour to do both sides including jacking the car up and putting it on stands

[SplitsenseM35]

No more than 1 1/2 hours total.
1) Remove 5 lug nuts and wheel
2) Remove brake caliper (two bolts)
3) Remove caliper bracket w/brake pads (2 bolts)
4) Remove brake rotor
5) Remove speed sensor from hub (1 bolt)
6) Remove four hub bolts on back of spindle
7) Remove hub

Reverse to install.

It took me about an hour to do both sides including jacking the car up and putting it on stands

Thanks Dean, now I have some knowledge so my indie doesn't pull one on me.

[fat3oy]

Deans steps are spot on...

Has anyone seen increased wear after dropping the car? I've replaced my fronts twice now... Maybe it is an increased problem with the AWD.

[DeanM45]

I'm on Eibachs and have not "noticed" any additional wear. I could definitely understand increased wear with AWD, when accelerating there is more load on the lower front area of the bearing as the wheel tries to "climb" up. Anything that increases load on the bearing (out of balance wheel, warped rotor, warped rim, etc) will cause increased wear on the hub bearing. Since they are sealed bearings lubrication is not a problem (unless you have a blown seal).

[fat3oy]

I'm on Eibachs and have not "noticed" any additional wear. I could definitely understand increased wear with AWD, when accelerating there is more load on the lower front area of the bearing as the wheel tries to "climb" up. Anything that increases load on the bearing (out of balance wheel, warped rotor, warped rim, etc) will cause increased wear on the hub bearing. Since they are sealed bearings lubrication is not a problem (unless you have a blown seal).

makes sense... before replacing yours did you notice any increased wheel hop? My seals are constantly blowing... I have a feeling one of my engine mounts is jacked up as well, maybe contributing to the problem

[DeanM45]

No wheel hop. Wheel hop is indicative of too much power being applied without proper suspension geometry (and usually only with very stick tires), blown strut/shock or bent control arm. If you mean wheel "wobble" then that can be caused by a worn hub but I did not experience it.

Which seals keep blowing? A broken engine mount should not affect any of this.

[SplitsenseM35]

No wheel hop. Wheel hop is indicative of too much power being applied without proper suspension geometry (and usually only with very stick tires), blown strut/shock or bent control arm. If you mean wheel "wobble" then that can be caused by a worn hub but I did not experience it.

Which seals keep blowing? A broken engine mount should not affect any of this.

So a worn out Hub can definitely show as a shimmy since it wobbles when worn out?

[DeanM45]

No wheel hop. Wheel hop is indicative of too much power being applied without proper suspension geometry (and usually only with very stick tires), blown strut/shock or bent control arm. If you mean wheel "wobble" then that can be caused by a worn hub but I did not experience it.

Which seals keep blowing? A broken engine mount should not affect any of this.

So a worn out Hub can definitely show as a shimmy since it wobbles when worn out?

Yep.

[SteveTheTech]

Good info here.

Couple of quick things I'd like to add.

It seems that city driving with larger wheels tends to wear bearings faster. (Although I have several clients with dropped Ms and no bearing failures)

I do a lot more right side bearings than left. ( I bet a few slight curb contacts can accelerate wear)

Rear bearings should be replaced with the hub, as the inner race often shifts and can destroy the bearing before it ever makes it into the car. (A lesson I learned the hard way)

If the speed sensor gets stuck the rear metal cover can be separated from the bearing and it can be reinstalled without damage to the sensor or bearing. (This requires nothing more than a large flat screwdriver)

Mark the backing plate, so you decrease the likelihood of installing it backwards, it is a pain to realize you will have to pull it all apart for a simple oversight. (lesson learned the hard way)

So a worn out Hub can definitely show as a shimmy since it wobbles when worn out?

This would only be true of the hub where damaged from impact, but not typical of a bearing failure.

My seals are constantly blowing... I have a feeling one of my engine mounts is jacked up as well, maybe contributing to the problem

Would that be a failure of the axle seals or anything relating to the all wheel drive?
If so
I suspect that may be a byproduct of stressing the operating angles of the front drive shafts.

The most common complaint for a broken motor mount would be a clunking noise when accelerating from a stop.

[bluedevil30]

I have a 2009 M35X and the dealer charged me about $500 (including tax) for my front left bearing replacement.

2.5 hrs of labor at ($120 per hr) =$300 and $190 for the part. Personally, I thought I was overchanged by 1 hr on the labor.

[SteveTheTech]

^ That is usually what I charge, especially on an awd model. Maybe +-.5 depending on how much rust is in the area. If any of the bolts break or strip it costs me money to fix it.

[TXT]

Since this thread was made I figured I ask here:

When I drive at low speeds and accelerate I feel like there's lumps in my tires. Also feel it when I brake but I don't feel it at high speeds. Not sure if that makes sense....

At high speeds, i do feel my steering wheel vibrate and shimmy about a bit so I know a wheel balancing/Alignment will probably fix that. Would wheel hubs cause any of these symptoms? I never had a car with wheel hub problems.

There are no noises that I hear, everything is felt as I drive especially through the pedal feed back.

[SplitsenseM35]

Since this thread was made I figured I ask here:

When I drive at low speeds and accelerate I feel like there's lumps in my tires. Also feel it when I brake but I don't feel it at high speeds. Not sure if that makes sense....

At high speeds, i do feel my steering wheel vibrate and shimmy about a bit so I know a wheel balancing/Alignment will probably fix that. Would wheel hubs cause any of these symptoms? I never had a car with wheel hub problems.

There are no noises that I hear, everything is felt as I drive especially through the pedal feed back.

I exactly know what u mean about the lumpy tire thing. I think I have the same issue. I will be replacing both hubs this tues and will let u know if it's gone.

[SteveTheTech]

When I drive at low speeds and accelerate I feel like there's lumps in my tires. Also feel it when I brake but I don't feel it at high speeds. Not sure if that makes sense....

Sounds like you might be on to something with the lump in your tire.

A bearing isn't typically in associated with a vibration until the bearing is loose. To have a low speed (below 40mph) physical vibration I would highly expect to see a lump or similar deformation in one of your front tires. A severely bent wheel might also be an possible cause.

Whatever it is it should be easy to spot by a pro.

[karsys]

I know this is an older post.

Due to the severe east coast winter, I ran into a pot hole cruising at 70, blew out 2 brand new tires on one side. Spent over 500 to replace. Now that I have the car back, sound like my bearings in the front are damaged, from the impact possibly. Getting quotes of 3-400 each side. Given that, I'll be out over~1200 for a pothole. I'm a pretty handy guy. haven't done car work in some time however. Is it possible to do follow Deans steps fairly easily? What special tools are needed? Do the threads on anything in the area get seized and how would I handle that? I don't mind spending 150/each for parts and sweat equity, but don't to end up with a car on jacks needing a tow to the repair shop mid stream. Suggestions welcome, parts places welcome.

I have a 2006 M35x, ~90k miles. Has an oil burning issue too, conversation for another day.

Thanks in advance.

Ken

[pedsemdoc]

Dean's directions are spot on, but the Cliff Notes version.

Check out the How To & FAQ thread:
how-do-you-diagnose-wheel-bearing-noise ... l#p5573362

Pretty easy to do technically, a few more steps after taking off the caliper and rotor.
However, some caveats (btw I changed out my front passenger hub, I had about 90,000):

1. I torqued off the wheel sensor 10mm bolt head because it was so rusted. So, took a little time to drill out the bolt and re drill for new one with a tap.

2. The old hub was pretty rusted on. I used a ton of penetrating oil, plus whacks from a hammer. Eventually I got it to move enough to fit a small pry bar along the flange to help slowly ease it out. No big deal since you're not going to use it again.

Other than those 2 things, pretty darn quick.

I bought my hub from an Infiniti dealer on Fleabay - definitely cheaper than the stealership.
They wanted about $240 for the past and about $200 for the labor.

Good luck,

Craig

[Ilya]

Dean's directions are spot on, but the Cliff Notes version.

Check out the How To & FAQ thread:
how-do-you-diagnose-wheel-bearing-noise ... l#p5573362

Pretty easy to do technically, a few more steps after taking off the caliper and rotor.
However, some caveats (btw I changed out my front passenger hub, I had about 90,000):

1. I torqued off the wheel sensor 10mm bolt head because it was so rusted. So, took a little time to drill out the bolt and re drill for new one with a tap.

2. The old hub was pretty rusted on. I used a ton of penetrating oil, plus whacks from a hammer. Eventually I got it to move enough to fit a small pry bar along the flange to help slowly ease it out. No big deal since you're not going to use it again.

Other than those 2 things, pretty darn quick.

I bought my hub from an Infiniti dealer on Fleabay - definitely cheaper than the stealership.
They wanted about $240 for the past and about $200 for the labor.

Good luck,

Craig

I had to deal with scenario 2 as well...my dad and me both pounded the crap out of it until we were able to fit a pry bar in there.

The thread Craig provided is the one to follow.

[karsys]

Is it recommended to get a torque wrench?
Stupid question, would I able to do this without a lift of both wheels, just a standard jack, one wheel at a time. I realize I'd lose the ability to turn the hub to my advantage.

[The00Dustin]

Is it recommended to get a torque wrench?
Stupid question, would I able to do this without a lift of both wheels, just a standard jack, one wheel at a time. I realize I'd lose the ability to turn the hub to my advantage.

While I can't imagine a reason it wouldn't work, I can't answer the question as to whether or not you can do one wheel at a time with anything other than a guess, but I will point out that using super secret extra special features of your car called the parking brake and neutral, you wouldn't actually lose the ability you mention. On a more serious note, if you decide to take advantage of neutral, I'd recommend wheel chocks of some sort in addition to the parking brake, because my parking brake has been tightened twice and is probably getting loose again, so I'm not sure how much I'd trust one on an M. Even if it weren't an M and that weren't a concern, I'm sure some standard safety protocol would dictate wheel chocks should still be used.

ETA: Actually, I've never messed with an AWD, I assume neutral would leave all wheels free, but I don't know that to be a fact.