sjbsuperman1425 wrote:...1). when removing ARP head bolts, did anyone ever have the studs come up with them? this happened to me on a few of them and im just wondering if i should remove all of them, re-grease them, and install again.
2). this second time around, should i do the three step torque sequence on the ARP head studs? ( torque in the steps, loosen, torque in three steps, loosen, torque )
3). the second time around, should i do the warm-up, cool down, and recheck the torque?
4). how long should i wait for the gasket to seat? I plan on waiting awhile before even getting close to the gas pedal. I'll play with my EBC or something.
5). anybody ever use Summit hose end fittings on their oil lines? I read something in the RB forum abt some guys fittings giving out, but im thinking user error..
1-No. If the studs came up out of the block, you didn't get them down in all the way or something. They don't need to be torqued down or anything, but I did use an allen key and snug them up before I put everything together.
2-The tighten,loosen,tighten isn't needed anymore. Just the first time they're installed.
3-Yes. Anytime you pull the head, you'll need to re-torque after cool down. Also your socket CAN NOT touch the sides of the head AT ALL if you expect to torque the studs to the proper amount. Any contact will decrease the amount of torque actually applied to the head and will cause leaks or warpage.
4- Get the head on, torque the studs (no contact with the socket and the head!) and put eveything together. Start the car and let it idle until it gets to NOT and then allow it to run for another 10 min. Turn off the car and let it cool COMPLETELY. Remove the valve covers, and re-torque the nuts on the head studs. You don't need to remove the cams, you can do it with them installed if you're careful.
5-IDK.