Sway Bar

Forum for Nissan wheel fitment, tire selection, suspension setup and brake discussions.
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driftaholic
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the rear being smaller gives the car more understeer/less oversteer than it would have if they were the same diameter


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mattback
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I just ordered a HICAS rear bar for my base model 240sx.

(Hicas bar = 21MM HOA!!!!!!!!!!!!)

Tai Mai Shu
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I knew why they did it, but i prefer nuteral hadling, understeer sux0r for drift.

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driftaholic
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that's the main reason i got the AGX's, cause they're adjustable. setting the front softer than the rear will make the car more neutral

Tai Mai Shu
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I like the hicas idea with some Poly bushings because 21 is el humungo!

KyoLo
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yeswepromise wrote:i just got my Cusco front sway bar yesterday. waiting for my rear one to come in.


Where did you get it and how much did you pay? i heard Whiteline endlinks are weak, however by replacing the the endlinks with stronger bolts and bushings will solve the problem, i heard. I don't know if CUSCO got good endlinks or not, so i wanna know if you could possibly take pic of your Front CUSCO sway bar please????? and post it up!! THANKS!

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SonicS14
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is installing sway bars (im thinking ST) any more difficult on an S14 base model than on an SE because they had differant suspention setups? do i need anything extra?

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matt0941
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Wow there are alot of questions and little answers (besides driftaholic) here... so I will add more to this dillema :D

I have also heard that whiteline endlinks are weak but I *DO* like the fact that they are adjustable. What has anyone done to remedy this problem. I think Dousan on FA replaced the endlinks with stock... ?

yeswepromise
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Quote »if you could possibly take pic of your Front CUSCO sway bar please????? and post it up!! THANKS![/quote] yeah ill get a pic soon.

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C-Kwik
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driftaholic wrote:that's the main reason i got the AGX's, cause they're adjustable. setting the front softer than the rear will make the car more neutral


Only initially. Shocks only resist when there is movement. As you start a turn, the shock will resist the body roll. But when you max out the load on the springs and anti-sway bars, the shocks will no longer offer any resistance. Therefore the steady state balance will depend on weight distribution, spring stiffness and anti-sway bar stiffness.

halz
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Whiteline's endlinks are not weak.

Whiteline has been using the same style endlinks on a 3200lbs off-road buggy with a 32mm bar for a decade without problems.

The problem is just in how people are installing/maintain the anti-roll bar and the polyurethane bushings.

Install the bar at ride height, don't tighten the bushings excessively, and grease them. Thats it.

If any endlink's strength is to be questioned, it should be the stock endlinks.. Seeing it possible, I gave the stock (solid metal bushing) endlinks a try on a Whiteline front bar. Not only were the endlinks at a funny angle, causing pre-load on the endlink bushings. The only way to get no preload on the Whiteline bar with stock endlinks would be to run the bar on full-stiff. When the car was really pushed, I broke the endlink. The metal bushing was pulled from the socket. Not fun.

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matt0941
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Thanks for your info/trial. Is anyone aware of why the endlinks are in question then?

halz
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Theres a long discussion on Whiteline's tech-board. It starts here:http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/.../2401

yeswepromise
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Quote »pic of your Front CUSCO sway bar [/quote] okay i got it for like 250 i think. Enonvativ Force is where i got it from.here are 2 picshttp://www.eniety.com/pichost/pic/Dscn1319.jpg http://www.eniety.com/pichost/pic/Dscn1320.jpg sorry for taking forever to get pics.

pric65
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Ok guys, don't laugh about this question!Is the s14 240sx and s14 Silvia chassis the same? So can I install sway bars ment for 240sx on my Silvia?

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Exar-Kun
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if you live in the US you have a 240sx, number one(unless you imported it)

and check the FAQ's for chsis code equivalents, but yes, S14 chassis are the same, and sway bars are compatible from US to japan.

bing
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i have heard that there may be fitment problems with aftermarket exhausts.

i have an N1 dual, will the sus tech cars still fit. it was a few years ago that i read that they would not..

please clarify this for me.

thanks

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corn322
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for you people going "sway bar, wha?", this is for you. http://www.stealthtdi.com/SwayBars.htmlyeah, it's a long read, but it's worth it.

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C-Kwik
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bing wrote:i have heard that there may be fitment problems with aftermarket exhausts.

i have an N1 dual, will the sus tech cars still fit. it was a few years ago that i read that they would not..

please clarify this for me.

thanks


I've heard they do not.

bing
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does anyone have both sway bars and an N1 dual or similar exhaust???

240_Keyy
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Whiteline rear clears blitz Nur spec R just fine...

96_S14_SE
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matt0941 wrote:Thanks for your info/trial. Is anyone aware of why the endlinks are in question then?


They are softer then oem, but are stronger in a since as well. Most of the problems have been from people installing then off the ground. They adjust the endlinks to be straight then, not considering the fact that they will be at an angle when the car is in its normal state.

I used the stock enlinks because there wasnt a single peice of information I could find on how to install them back when I got mine 3+ yrs ago... I literally thought they where for a different car... I put the whiteline endlinks on later, after more info was abundant, and still didnt like how they felt... So Im riding on stock endlinks, at a slight angle still on 29mm, and poly bushings...

The best way, I feel, is a mix of both into one, and something Im going to do shortly... I will be taking the whiteline LCA bracket and mating a double female heim joint ended piece into this, and then into the bar. Basically replicating the "figure 8" poly link with metal... I am still working on something like this for the rear bar as well, which is a non adjustable 22mm bar hehe yeah its old...

jam149
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Quote »i have an N1 dual, will the sus tech cars still fit. it was a few years ago that i read that they would not..[/quote]I dunno about the ST bars - but the whiteline bars clear just fine.

Quote »Basically replicating the "figure 8" poly link with metal... I am still working on something like this for the rear bar as well, which is a non adjustable 22mm bar hehe yeah its old...[/quote]

I did the hard link setup:heim joint endlinks

(sorry about the rotation).

As far as making the rear adjustable as well - it doesn't matter all that much. The point is to adjust the roll stiffness relative to each other. Making both adjustable just means you can make the whole car softer - which isn't as useful as making one end of the car softer only (or making the opposite end harder - same effect).

96_S14_SE
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Looks good, but slightly missaligned on the Z axis, no?... I wonder if this causes any binding issues, or limitations. Did you use the whiteline L bracket?

As for the rears not being adjustable, I wasn't saying that it was a problem but stating that that's how long I've had the WL bars for.... They are pre-rear adjustable bars hehe But I may grind and drill the rears closer to center so that I may get the effectiveness of a 25mm rear, from my 22mm bar. I gotta bust out the GRM with the formulas and junk to make sure I get it spot on.

Then I think an L on the bar and on the LCA will be fabbed up allowing the use of dbl heims like on the front...

jam149
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Yes, I used the whiteline "L" bracket. I'll have to check the other side of the car too and compare.

I had a lot of problems with the bar moving quite a bit side to side, and I think it was causing some problems, so I made some brackets that attatch to the bar, and fit tight against the frame mount. They've at least kept the bar from going way off (like it used to).

You can kind of see them in this pic:locator bracket (alum piece just behind the frame mount)

I'm not sure whether it's like that because I took the pic with the car on the ground (and it looks like that on both sides) or if the bar has just shifted a little bit and I should readjust.

But I'd recommend building some kind of side to side locator for the bar.

joe

96_S14_SE
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Oh ****, I forgot about that... I mean I remember thinking that would happen, and even designed a bracket to stop side to side movement. Too bad it was a mental design, and with the notation I made of the movement forgoten so was the design :(

Hmmmm shouldnt be too hard to rig something up :)

As for those brackets I cant really grasp how they work... Is it a collar that goes around the bar and is tightened down, around it?

Oh and btw, did you notice any (even minimal not really worth mentioning) difference between this, the oem, and poly 8 WL endlinks?


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