Suspension FAQ

Forum for Nissan wheel fitment, tire selection, suspension setup and brake discussions.
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Exar-Kun
Posts: 4904
Joined: Fri Sep 27, 2002 1:33 pm
Car: 2005 350Z
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Useful Links

The Tire Rack Suspension Page

Manufacturer pages

KYB of North America

KONI

Bilstein

Eibach Suspension Componenets

Suspension Techniques

Ground Control Suspension

Tein Suspension

Apex-I manufacturing

GP sports North America

Cusco Japan

JIC Magic

WhiteLine Inc.

KAAZ Differentials

Quaife Differentials

RS*R

Tanabe

SPL PARTS

LongAcre Scales and Racing Tools

Tokico Shocks

Endless USA

Buddy Club

Other Links/Questions:*Click the question to get a link to the answer*

How does the steering work in my car?

Whats corner weighing?

Whats involved with a coilover installation?

Whats involved with shock/strut installation?

How do sway bars work?

How do I go about Installing front sway bars?

How about installing the rear?

How do shocks/dampers work, and what is involved with adjusting them for my purposes?

Whats all that allignment terminology mean?

Can you show me what different alignment specs look like?

How do gears work?

How does a differential work?*basic gearing note: the final gear(differential gear) ratio is explained above, the higher the number the lower the effective gearing and vice versa. A higher gear number(lower effective gearing) will allow you to place more(effective) torque to the ground, and also lower the MPH you are at at a given gear(1st, 2nd, etc) at a certain rpm, and vice versa. All explained above...

Whats a good place to start for a drift setup? I need the basics!

Five Lug conversion? Whats involved with that?

I need more info on a Five Lug conversion!??!?!

Whats involved with swapping out my T/C rod bushings?

Koni Inserts? What is involved with making those work for my car?

What do all those racing terms mean?

Seems like alot of new people on the board are wanting to take it to the next level with their 240's. So why not do it competitively in a legal, and safe manner. Learn how to drive your car, learn car control, and learn how to be faster than the next guy.

Top 10 Driving Mistakes

Autocross Beginners Guide

Getting into Racing

Tips for Stock Autocross Classes

Auto-X FAQ

Tirerack's Tire Tech Page

Another Novice Solo II Guide

Helmet Tech Guide

Helmet Sizing Guide

Harness Tech Guide

Lots of Good Links

SCCA Club Racing

SCCA Regulations and FasTrack Updates

Join the SCCA!

Conecrazy.com

Car Setup Guide

Thanks to soloracer.com, the SCCA, and Grassroots Motorsports Magazine for the links.

Thanks to: Nismo_Freak and Exar-Kun for the Links

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See below for bushing diagram(S13) Bushing Names:2- TC(tension rod) 4- LCA(lower control arm) front6- LCA rear8- Forward link (traction rod)10- Rear Upper arm 12- Toe link14- Upright (upper)15- Upright (lower)16- Sub-frame (front/lower)17- Sub-frame (rear/upper)

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Spring rate and ride height information STOCKSpring Rate - F : 2.0kg/mm (2.2 for sport package?)Spring Rate - R : 2.0kg/mm (2.2 for sport package?)Ride Height - F : 0"Ride Height - R : 0"

EIBACH PROKITSpring Rate - F : 1.84~1.92kg/mmSpring Rate - R : 2.3~2.4kg/mmRide Height - F : -1.8" (eibach site) -1" (jnm240 test)Ride Height - R : -1.6" (eibach site) -.75" (test)

EIBACH SPORTLINESpring Rate - F : 1.92~2.0kg/mmSpring Rate - R : 2.4~2.5kg/mmRide Height - F : -2.2" / -1.75" (test)Ride Height - R : -2.1" / -1.75" (test)

H & R SPORTSpring Rate - F : 2.0~2.08kg/mmSpring Rate - R : 2.5~2.6kg/mmRide Height - F : -1.3"Ride Height - R : -1.3"

TEIN S-TECH(progressive, TEIN only lists the maximal rate)Spring Rate - F : 3.7Spring Rate - R : 3.2Ride Height - F : -1.5"Ride Height - R : -1.2"

TEIN HIGH-TECHSpring Rate - F: 3.3 (s13); 3.2 (s14)Spring Rate - R: 2.9 (s13); 3.1 (s14)Ride Height - F: -0.9" (s13); -0.7" (s14)Ride Height - R: -0.6" (s13); -0.4" (s14)

INTRAX SPORT SPRING KITSpring Rate - F : (Couldn't get through to tech support)Spring Rate - R : (Couldn't get through to tech support)Ride Height - F : -2.25"Ride Height - R : -2.0"

SUSPENSION TECHNIQUESSpring Rate - F : 3Spring Rate - R : 2.66Ride Height - F : -1.3"Ride Height - R : -1.3" (?)

WHITELINE CONTROLSpring Rate - F : S13&S14 = 2.8 Spring Rate - R : S13= 2.36~3.66 S14= 1.91~3.18Ride Height - F : -1.75"Ride Height - R : -1.75"

TANABE GF210Spring Rate - F : 2.9Spring Rate - R : 2.7Ride Height - F : -1." to -1.6"Ride Height - R : -.6" to -1"

RS*R DOWN SPRINGSSpring Rate - F: 3.0SPring Rate - R: 3.0Ride Height - F: -1.6"(s13) -1.0"(s14)Ride Height - R: -1.2" (s13) -0.6" (s14)

RS*R RACE SPRINGSSpring Rate - F: 5.0Spring Rate - R: 4.5(s13) 4.2 (s14)Ride Height - F: -1.4" Ride Height - R: -1.2" (s13) -1.0" (s14)

MEGAN RACING LOWERING SPRINGS MR-LS-NS13 (s13):Springrate F: 6.25kg/mm (350lbs/in)Springrate R: 4.46kg/mm (250lbs/in)Ride Height F: 1.75"Ride Height R: 1.75"

MEGAN RACING LOWERING SPRINGS MR-LS-NS14 (s14):Springrate F: 6.25kg/mm (350lbs/in)Springrate R: 4.46kg/mm (250lbs/in)Ride Height F: 1.75"Ride Height R: 1.75"

ESPELIR ACTIVE SUPER DOWN - Front - 3.0kg/mm (168.0 lb/in) ~ drops 1.9"Rear - 2.4kg/mm (134.4 lb/in) ~ drops 1.1"

KGMM S21 SPORT - Front - 3.2kg/mm (179.2 lb/in) Rear - 2.6kg/mm (145 lb/in) KGMM S21 SUPERSPORT - Front - 4.6kg/mm (257.6 lb/in)Rear - 3.8kg/mm (212.8 lb/in)

KGMM DR Race -Front - 6kg/mmRear - 5kg/mmRide Height - F: 2.2"Ride Height - R: 1.2"

5ZIGEN R-RATE - Front - 2.4 to 5.2kg/mm (134 to 291 lb/in) ~ drops 1.3"Rear - 1.9 to 5.0kg/mm (106 to 280 lb/in) ~ drops 1.1"

KGMM S21 RACE - Front - 6.6kg/mm (369.6 lb/in) ~drops ?"Rear - 5.2kg/mm (291.2 lb/in) ~ drops ?"

Several members contributed to the Spring rates... keep em coming!

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Sway bar information*thanks to Kinesthesia*S14 Stock (data from CourtesyParts)Front 27.2mm Rear 15.9mm

Whiteline Adjustables (data from PDMRacing.com)Front 27mm Rear 20mm (22mm available as well)

Suspension Techniques (data from STRacing.com)Front 28.6mm Rear 20.6mm

Cusco (data from Japanparts.com)Front 30mm Rear 21mm

Nismo (data from Japanparts.com) Front 30mm Rear 23mm

Tanabe (data from Tanabe-usa.com)Front 30.4mm Rear 27.5mm

ProgressFront 30mmRear 24mm

Further Information:Nismo Stabilizer Kit (I thought the spring rate was interesting)Front: Diameter=30.0, Spring Rate=101.2mm(10.3kgf/mm) Rear: Diameter =23.0, Spring Rate=43.1mm(4.4kgf/mm)

Suspension Techniques data (from CourtesyParts.com)The stabilizer bar kits are manufactured by Suspension Techniques and include all mounting hardware and urethane bushings. Torsional rigidity is increased by 22% over the 27.2mm OE front bar and 182% over the 15.9mm OE rear bar (SE model).

S13 Stock ? (data from Japanparts.com) JDM ?Front 24mm Rear 16mm

Suspension Techniques (data from STRacing.com)Front 27mm Rear 20.6mm

Whiteline (data from PDMRacing.com)Front 27mm Rear 20-22mm

Cusco (data from Japanparts.com) Front 28mm Rear 18mm

Tanabe (data from Tanabe-usa.com)Front 30.4mm Rear 22mm

ProgressFront 27mmRear 22mm

Further Information:For the S13: 24 and 25mm OE front and 15, 17, and 21 mm OE rear bars can be had from CourtesyParts.com or by request the sponsors at right..

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Cusco Strut bar types and fitments

TYPE OS Material: Light weight aluminum (shaft), Blue painted steel (plate)Style: Oval ShaftFitment: -S13: Front/RearFitment: -S14: Front/Rear

TYPE ALC OS Material: Aluminum + Carbon (shaft)Style: Oval ShaftFitment: -S13: Front OnlyFitment: -S14: Front Only

TYPE AS Material: Light weight aluminum (shaft), Blue painted steel (plate)Style: Circular ShaftFitment: -S13: Front/RearFitment: -S14: Front/Rear

TYPE 40D Material: Aluminum (shaft), Titan color painted steel (plate)Style: 'D' shape sectionFitment: -S13: Front OnlyFitment: -S14: Front Only

TYPE CB Material : Carbon (shaft), Aluminum in titan color (bracket & plate)Style: Circular ShaftFitment: -S13: Rear OnlyFitment: -S14: Rear Only TYPE MT Material: ChromeStyle: Steel twin pipeFitment: -S13: Front/RearFitment: -S14: Front Only

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Spring/shock adjustment guide

Spring Rate Changes (def. important for those who dont pay att. to this)Modification - Effect on Suspension

Increase front and rear rate - Ride harshness increases; tires may not follow bumps causing reduced traction. Roll resistance increases.

Increase front rate only - Front ride rate increases. Front roll resistance increases, increasing understeer or reducing oversteer.

Increase rear rate only - Rear ride rate increases. Rear roll resistance increases, increasing oversteer or reducing understeer.

Decrease front and rear rate - Ride harshness decreases; tires follow bumps more effectively, possibly improving traction. Roll resistance decreases.

Decrease front rate only - Front ride rate decreases. Front roll resistance decreases, decreasing understeer or increasing oversteer.

Decrease rear rate only - Rear ride rate decreases. Rear roll resistance decreases, decreasing oversteer or increasing understeer.

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Antiroll Bar Changes (aka sway bar)Modification - Effect on Suspension

Increase front rate - Front roll resistance increases, increasing understeer or decreasing oversteer. May also reduce camber change, allowing better tire contact patch compliance with the road surface, reducing understeer.

Increase rear rate - Rear roll resistance increases, increasing oversteer or decreasing understeer. On independent rear suspensions, may also reduce camber change, allowing better contact patch compliance with road surface, reducing oversteer.

Decrease front rate - Front roll resistance decreases, decreasing understeer or increasing oversteer. More body roll could reduce tire contact patch area, causing understeer.

Decrease rear rate - Rear roll resistance decreases, decreasing oversteer or increasing understeer. On independent rear suspensions, more body roll could reduce tire contact patch area, causing oversteer.

Note - Remember to consider the construction of the sway bar and the endlinks. A solid sway bar has more resistance than a hollow bar of the same diameter. Also the addition of solid or polyurethane endlinks will artificially raise the diameter of the bar in terms of effectiveness.

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Shock Absorber Changes (aka your struts)Modification - Effect on Suspension

Rebound - The dampers resistance when the suspension is de-compressing (when you turn right the right side suspension is in rebound)

Bump - The dampers resistance when the suspension is compressing (when you turn right the left side suspension is in bump)

Increase rebound and bump rates - Ride harshness increases.

Increase rebound rates only - On bumps, tires may leave track surface.

Increase bump rates only - Body roll resisted; outside tire loaded too quickly; car won't stabilize into a turn.

Decrease rebound and bump rates - Ride harshness decreases; car may float over bumps.

Decrease rebound rates only - On bumps, tires follow track surface more effectively; car may continue to oscillate after bumps.

Decrease bump rates only - Body rolls quickly; car is slower to respond to turn-in.

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Admendums:

KYB AGX Valving Stiffness per Adjustment

Setting#:Relative Value

1 - Same as Factory 100

2 - Same as our GR2 products (10~15% firmer than Factory) 115

3 - 50% firmer than #2 172

4 - 30% firmer than #3 223

For an eight position adjustable product, the damping force values areapprox. the following:

With #2 being Factory at a relative value of 100,

#1 = 95 (5% softer than Factory )

#2 = 100 (Factory damping force)

#3 = 107.5 (7.5% firmer than Factory)

#4 = 115 (15% firmer than Factory)(GR-2)

#5 = 143.5 (43.5% firmer than Factory)

#6 = 172 (72% firmer than Factory)

#7 = 197.5 (97.5 firmer than Factory)

#8 = 223 (123 % firmer than Factory)

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I got an email from KYB of america today when I asked them about mating the agx with eibach sportlines on a 95+ which is about a 1.8" drop. Here is what he said:

Quote »

If you plan on using the AGX line with this drop you will have to have the setting no lower than 3 front and 6 rear.With this drop for the long run and road conditions you will shorten the life of those shocks/struts.

Troy HornKYB America LLC [/quote]Thanks to: Offtheline

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As for checking the car over after an event, I always give it a good looking over(between run sessions too just to be safe), but a good list is:

1. Bleed brake fluid if you've really pushed your brakes, also check brake pad thickness at this point. It is amazing how much pad you can go through when you really overheat them.2. Torque lug nuts3. Check fluid levels(oil, coolant, PS, tranny and diff if you're feeling extra frisky)4. Give the suspension bushings and linkages a quick look, after you work on your car some you will notice something out of place almost immediately5. Give her a good wash since you've been riding her hard

Here's another good link for those that are getting into HPDEs and Driver's Schools. Your wallets can hate me later... http://www.trackschedule.com

Thanks to: Def

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How do you know what shocks rebound/compression rates should be adjusted to in regard to spring rates?

Question by: Cys19



This is a front shock dyno for the SPL Coilovers for a Z32 shock. Specs are as follows:

Max Bump: 120 lbs.Max Rebound: 410 lbs. (hardest setting) 205 lbs. (softest setting)This is for a 15 way adjustable shock optimizing a 8 kgf/mm spring



This is a rear shock dyno for the SPL Coilovers for a Z32 shock. Specs are as follows:

Max Bump: 190 lbs. Max Rebound: 670 lbs. (hardest setting) 290 lbs. (softest setting)This is for a 15 way adjustable shock optimizing a 6 kgf/mm spring

Note: Higher settings in rear should be used when you are considering dampening rates.

When you increase the weight of the car, or the springs rate you should increase the bump and visa versa. Using too high of a bump value inhibits weight transfer between the shocks and causes a degradation of performance as a result.

When you increase the compression typically you want to increase your rebound setting. Using too high of a rebound value can cause wheel lift in corners eliminating that tires possible traction, and weight can be transfered too quickly off of the loaded shocks causing the vehicle to become unstable when transitioning between acceleration and braking.

Information Provided by: SPL PARTS and Nismo_Freak

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How do I correct my suspension geometry?

Note: Almost every aftermarket arm has a solid rod end which replaces the worn stock rubber bushing. This increases road noise somewhat, but drastically increases the response of the suspension. It also reduces the compliancy of the suspension, which reduces the change in geometry when the suspension is bumped. This creates a much more stable feel in the car especially when cornering.



ADJUSTABLE TENSION RODS

Adjust Caster

Often one of the problem areas found in older 240s with the stock bushings still in place. The tension rod is found at the front of the car running between the front chassis and the lower control arm. It controls the amount of caster in the front suspension. Typically when raising the deg. of negative caster the steering wheel will have a stronger force to return to center when you let go of the wheel, and steering response will be slightly slower. When you lower the deg. of negative caster the steering will be more responsive, this can be beneficial and counter productive at the same time so keep adjustments in moderation.



ADJUSTABLE FRONT LOWER ARMS

Roll Moment Adjustment

Suggested only for those interested in competitive events, and or extensive track/drift usage. The arms have an adjustable shank (balljoint) that allows you to effectively raise and lower the arm, causing a corresponding change in roll geometry.



ADJUSTABLE REAR UPPER CONTROL ARMS

Rear Camber Adjustment

The rear upper control arm is a popular part because it is the only way to adjust the rear camber on the 240's besides the use of eccentric bolts. By accurately adjusting camber you can choose to either save your tires from a camber incited early death, or you can setup the rear camber to maintain the tire patch when the car pitches into the corner.



ADJUSTABLE REAR TRACTION ROD

Rear Bumpsteer Adjustment

When the suspension is lowered, an adjustable rear upper arm is usually installed to reduce the amount of negative camber at the ride height. However, when the rear upper arm is elongated to compensate for the negative camber, this alters the geometry of the rear multiple link and can cause bump-steer. Adjustment of the rear traction rod together with the rear tie rods (Hicas models) or rear toe arm (non-Hicas models), the geometry of the two two arms can be restored to eliminate bump-steer. Typically you want to make the traction rod longer than the OEM unit to reduce bumpsteer. Too much adjustment can cause an unstable change in toe when the suspension bumps. For this reason I suggest that the arm be adjusted minimally.



REAR TOE ARM

Rear Toe Adjustment

Note: HICAS model 240's cannot use these arms.

The stock rear toe adjustment has been found to run out when you have a lowered 240 with adjustable rear upper arms. For this reason the adjustable rear toe arm is made. Rear toe adjustments can change how the car pivots about a corner. Negative toe causes the rear end to want to rotate which can improve cornering but decreases stability. Positive toe works the opposite way, increasing stability but decreasing rear potential for rotation.



ADJUSTABLE REAR LOWER CONTROL ARMS

Rear Roll Center / Axis

Works in the same method as the front lower control arms.



REAR SUBFRAME TILT SPACERS

Rear Subframe Squat / Anti-Squat Properties

Subframe bushing spacers are used to tilt the subframe to change the rear suspension squat/anti-squat characteristic. Increase squat for drag racing or anti-squat for drift.



ECCENTRIC BOLTS

The 240 has eccentric bolts for rear camber and rear toe adjustment. These can cope with stock ride height and slightly lowered suspension geometries.

Information Provided by: SPL PARTS, Nismo_Freak, and Pelican Parts

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*Thank you Cloudedone and 240_keyy, matt0941,courtesy nissan(image), and all other contributors for the information! if anyone has information on any other springs, or anything let me know and I will roll it into this thread.

- Teh Chet


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continental_drift
Posts: 3293
Joined: Fri Oct 21, 2005 6:47 pm
Car: 1991 240sx coupe - in progress - zeal function V6, ssr formula reverse, trust SP. more to come.

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hey chet,

I just wanted to make you aware that the link regarding the 5 lug conversionseems to be dead. feel free to delete this post after reading it. I just don'tknow of any other way to bring this to your attention without starting a wholenew thread about it, which would be pointless.

thanks!

Micah

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Exar-Kun
Posts: 4904
Joined: Fri Sep 27, 2002 1:33 pm
Car: 2005 350Z
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I'm in the process of redoing all the FAQ/sticky..it's very time consuming, and time is something I don't ahve right now (between my job, SEDA, and other issues,....including possibly MBA school)..but rest assured, I'll be fixing a lot of brokenlinks as soon as I get the time..

-Chet

bdrifta
Posts: 109
Joined: Sat Aug 27, 2005 1:42 pm
Car: 1992 Nissan 240sx sr20det

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Yea...i would love to learn more about suspension setups and the sort...but it seems that about half of these links are dead...

Just lettin you guys know

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mrzabala
Posts: 2469
Joined: Thu Jun 08, 2006 4:34 pm
Car: 93 240sx se Hatchback

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Great write up. Only problem is most of the links are dead as already mentioned but it was months ago. Would like to know more info on suspension like the 5 lug conversion(link doesnt work). Hope you can update and fix all the problems. Much appreciated, thanks.

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glitched
Posts: 1860
Joined: Fri Jun 25, 2004 8:20 am
Car: 1992 240sx se
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for the springs,

would you add RSR ti2000 springs?

Same stats as rsr Down except made out of titanium. They are also progressive!

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glitched
Posts: 1860
Joined: Fri Jun 25, 2004 8:20 am
Car: 1992 240sx se
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Tanabe's customer support had this to say about the GF210:

The GF210’s for the S13 240SX have some progressive coils for ride quality, but the majority of the spring is linear rate. Progressive coils are at a softer rate and are closer wound and provide higher comfort and traction over small bumps and road irregularities, where a purely higher rate linear spring would bounce over them. The GF210’s is a balanced spring for handling, where the higher linear rates of the majority of the spring are utilized during aggressive cornering, and the softer progressives coils maintain daily drivability.

EDIT: Just received an additional email with this info from Tanabe:

We actually work alongside KYB in the development of suspensions and dampers, so they are highly recommended. The damping rates of the KYB AGX are best mated to the spring rates of the GF210 spring we offer.



Best Regards,

Tanabe Racing Development, USA
Modified by glitched at 4:34 PM 10/4/2006

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FSUDrifter
Posts: 1495
Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2006 7:50 pm
Car: trying to decide on one...

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the alignment terminology link is broken

Mad A
Posts: 12
Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 8:25 am

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for broken grassrootsracing links, trying adding /archive in the link like :

grassrootsmotorsports.com/archives/topten.html

instead of

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/topten.html

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homeslicej2
Posts: 5450
Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:46 pm
Car: 1990 S13 SR'd hatch

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This is what I got when I e-mailed Tokico's customer support about their HPK249 spring/strut combo package for the S13:

Justin,

Here is the spring rate you have requested.

170lbs front150lbs rear

Thanks,

Ray

The websites I have found list it as a 1" drop front and rear and it's ~$485 for the combo although I have found one site where it is $409.

170lbs/in=~3.05kg/mm150lbs/in=~2.7kg/mm

About the same rates as the Tein High Tech's but in a matched set of springs/struts and a slightly lower drop.

Tokico HP (Non-Adjustable) Performance Shocks/Springs Suspension Kit take the guesswork out of having the right suspension combination. Matched spring rates and proper ride height insure proper fit and function. Tokico performance lowering springs are manufactured with chrome silicon spring alloy and are heat treated, shot peened, block set, phosphate treated, and powder coated and also carry the same Tokico lifetime warranty.

Tokico HPK (Non-Adjustable) Suspension Kit comes complete with 4 shocks and 4 springs to deliver the ultimate combination of handling, ride quality and appearance at an affordable price.
Modified by homeslicej2 at 6:03 PM 4/9/2007

nismoslider413
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed Jul 11, 2007 5:55 am
Car: 92 nissan sentra xe
Contact:

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Right now iam lookin for a cuop or hatch but when I find one what type of coilover should I use for a stock 240 any advise will be appreciated

superbalance123
Posts: 10
Joined: Sun Jul 01, 2007 8:27 am

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really good info. esp about shock absorber specs. Thanks.

GTLegend
Posts: 108
Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2007 12:25 pm
Car: 1993 240sx-S13
Location: nj

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very helpful page!!! thanks

matthunter8819
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2007 4:25 pm
Car: 92 nissan 240sx coupe

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thanks, very helpful

turboabuser18
Posts: 51
Joined: Wed Nov 21, 2007 6:40 pm
Car: saab ng900 2.0 turbo

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yeah great sticky. i've been having a real hard time determining my setup. thanx.

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phanatikz32
Posts: 2007
Joined: Sun Nov 05, 2006 10:34 am
Car: 1991 NA to TT z32 biatch!

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barely any of these links still work,how to install front sway bars doesn't work, rear sway bars doesn't work, corner weighing doesn't work, alignment terminology doesn't work, the dampening force one is broken the basic drift set up is broken... anyway those can be fixed?

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Slappy
Posts: 5259
Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2004 10:28 am
Car: 1993 240 sx coupe
Location: Chesapeake City, MD
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Suspension color coded Chart


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