Sup Nico!

I'm new to the site, and hopefully meet new friends. I just wanna share a few things. I'm starting a S13 coupe project, and recently bought a RB20DET with transmission with engine mounts for S13 for 500$ . The downfall is the engine harness has been cut and no ecu . Today I took off the intake manifold such a beep to take it off but it's was successfully done. Then I decide to open the valve cover to see the condition of the camshafts and it was shinning like a mirror. For as right now I'm waiting for my rebuild kit Cometic Streetpro from FRSport.com, and still on the hunt for a engine harness, stock ecu or standalone. My goal is to mark at least 400-450 with stock internals. But, we'll see. Wish me luck.

Don't waste your time looking for a POS factory harness and computer. Get an aftermarket system now and skip that dealing with factory BS step.

themadscientist wrote:


Don't waste your time looking for a POS factory harness and computer. Get an aftermarket system now and skip that dealing with factory BS step.

You're right man, I'm aiming for standalone AEM. I'll search more info about the engine harness that is already made and just plug and play. Searching for RB20 parts ain't no joke, I'm starting getting headaches.

Depends on what you need. Anything you could possibly need can be had. It might not be cheap but it is not even close to impossible. What are your goals as far as power? You might not have to do that much.

As far as for my goals, I want to get the motor up running for stock setup. But I want at least 400-450 hp with stock internals. Anything higher I may have to upgrade my bottom-end block. I don't plan to spend to much on this RB20. I'm actually aiming for RB25 that produce more hp in stock internals and hold more boost. Since I found a good price deal on the RB20 I can't pass on it. So, I got it. Other thing I want to see what RB20 capable of too. I do have the funds to covers all parts but I'm just undecided right now and not sure what route I should do. Addition I have R32 GTR front-end conversion and tail light for my S13 Coupe I'm going to mock it up once the motor is up running.

Plan A:
Standalone AEM
Wiring Specialties Pre-Made Harness
550cc Injectors
Z32 Maf
Custom FMIC
Top Mount Manifold
Tial 38mm Wastegate
Master Power Turbo T04E

Plan B:
New paint job
Coilovers
J30 LSD
5 Lugs Conversion
Upgrade suspension : front and rear sway bars, camber arms, traction rods, tie rods

RB20DET : So far I took off the intake manifold I don't like the way it look so I'm going to fab my own.




T25 Polished : No Shaft play




R32 Fenders for S13




R32 GTR Head lights

R32RB20DET wrote:As far as for my goals, I want to get the motor up running for stock setup. But I want at least 400-450 hp with stock internals. Anything higher I may have to upgrade my bottom-end block.

That ain't happening. I have seen 400hp RB20s but they were heavily built and I don't think a single one was truly an RB"20". The 2.2 was the s*** there back in the day. Those sorts of power figures are going to call for huge amounts of boost and increased RPMs. Pistons, cams, lifters, gasket, oil pump, etc, all will need replacement. The rods might hang and the crank is fine, but both will need to be prepped and balanced. The head will have to be seriously hogged out to even try flowing that much air. I hate to be a killjoy but I would be surprised if you could crack 350hp with the RB20 without a lot of R&D and a couple blown motors along the way.

R32RB20DET wrote: Plan A:
Standalone AEM
Wiring Specialties Pre-Made Harness
550cc Injectors
Z32 Maf
Custom FMIC
Top Mount Manifold
Tial 38mm Wastegate
Master Power Turbo T04E

changes to plan.
You are going to need bigger injectors than that for 400+. 720s would provide you ample cushion, 555s are barely keeping up.
MAF? Lose that s***, you have a standalone, why go backwards? use a MAP reference.

themadscientist wrote:

R32RB20DET wrote:As far as for my goals, I want to get the motor up running for stock setup. But I want at least 400-450 hp with stock internals. Anything higher I may have to upgrade my bottom-end block.

That ain't happening. I have seen 400hp RB20s but they were heavily built and I don't think a single one was truly an RB"20". The 2.2 was the s*** there back in the day. Those sorts of power figures are going to call for huge amounts of boost and increased RPMs. Pistons, cams, lifters, gasket, oil pump, etc, all will need replacement. The rods might hang and the crank is fine, but both will need to be prepped and balanced. The head will have to be seriously hogged out to even try flowing that much air. I hate to be a killjoy but I would be surprised if you could crack 350hp with the RB20 without a lot of R&D and a couple blown motors along the way.

R32RB20DET wrote: Plan A:
Standalone AEM
Wiring Specialties Pre-Made Harness
550cc Injectors
Z32 Maf
Custom FMIC
Top Mount Manifold
Tial 38mm Wastegate
Master Power Turbo T04E

changes to plan.
You are going to need bigger injectors than that for 400+. 720s would provide you ample cushion, 555s are barely keeping up.
MAF? Lose that s***, you have a standalone, why go backwards? use a MAP reference.

Yeah, I was thinking 720cc or 850cc but it will be a gas hogger. I guess I'll lowered my hp down haha. Around 300-350 hp and I think it's good enough for drifting. I think I'm expecting to much from the RB20. Yeah, once I get standalone I don't need a maf anymore...I do forget things haha.

Well the problem is, and this is just my opinion of course, once you pass the mid 300s you are going to start needing to modify the engine in certain ways. You have to look at it as variable expenses and fixed expenses. RB20s are cheaper than RB25s and RB26s, that's a variable expense. If you can minimize variable expense and get what you want so much the better. If you save on variable expense but wind up taking in the shorts by incurring a fixed expense it winds up being a bad move in the final analysis. Pistons, rods, cams, headwork, etc cost pretty much the same no matter what RB you are looking at. If you have to incur a fixed expense like that you owe it to yourself to spend the money on the product with the greatest potential.

A fully prepped RB20 might achieve 400hp. the same money spent on the RB25 might yield 500hp, the RB26 600hp. The RB20 will be at its mechanical limits, the RB25 will have perhaps another 50-100hp left in it, the RB26 100-200hp.

If your goal is 300-350hp, the RB20 is going to require more work and thus more expense to reach that goal than an RB25 which could easily achieve those numbers without opening the motor. You need to weigh the lower initial cost against the aftercosts of making up for the shortcomings. The RB20 is a great motor, but physics don't deal in enthusiasm. To pump x amount of power takes x amount of air and fuel being fired off. X amount of piston face and stroke generates x amount of downward and then rotational motion. The RB20 is smaller in every way than its bigger brothers. It can match some of their power but must work increasingly hard to do it.

I think if you completely rebuilt the engine so it was fresh and tight, slapped a fresh oil and water pump on it, dropped a set of decent pistons in it with a metal gasket and some 264 cams with a T4/T3 50 trim TO4E with an ar .63 backside, some 550s that will feed low 300 power figures, a walboro pump and adjustable regulator, a really good intercooler, and most importantly radiator (RB20s run so much hotter than RB25s I could tell a 25 swapped R32 by touching the hood) you could have a reliable strong 300-350 RB20.

Thanks man, what's your name?

Planning to rebuild with all new gaskets, metal head gasket with ARP head studs. I was looking at these set of pistons from SuperTech and I'm not sure if these any good quality. They made of forged. Here's the link, check it out if this capable for 300-350 hp.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Supertec ... ccessories

I was looking for some camshafts too and I'm aiming for either the Tomei or the HKS.
A T3/T04E turbo it should get the job done.
550cc I heard can use from the Subaru STI? I'm not sure it will fit for the RB20.

Any other suggestion will help.

run 800ccs, aem ems, aem 3.5 bar map.

i switched to a aem ems and 3.5 bar map set up, huge diff!!!!!

SullivanRacing06 wrote:run 800ccs, aem ems, aem 3.5 bar map.

i switched to a aem ems and 3.5 bar map set up, huge diff!!!!!

What's your setup and hp made at the wheel?

I think my project will be down for while more than I expected. Good thing I still have a running S13 for the meantime.

Hey I was thinking maybe I should get the Greddy e-Manage Ultimate? Would the e-Manage be able to tune without the maf?

Got myself another S13 Coupe for $100. Previous owner lost the title and doesn't need the car anymore. It still runs and the only bad thing was it has a bad throw out bearing. Luckily that the tow guy came to the shop and left the car at the shop and luckily that my brother in law and I asked about the car. He didn't know much about it, but all he wanted was the catalytic converter that he saw it's huge. The funny part is that when I gave him $100 and we lift the car on the hoist and found out that the catalytic was aftermarket. We all know that aftermarket catalytic worth s*** so he didn't believe us when we show him. Well, so far my car is missing a lot of little stuff and so far swapping interiors into mine. Now its look clean and comfy. Next I'm swapping out his lowering springs 2" drop. That's good enough for my setup. I'll take some pic from before and after.

no emanage..


600+ at the wheel w/g wasnt holding boost over 18psi)

umm no emanage

SullivanRacing06 wrote:no emanage..


600+ at the wheel w/g wasnt holding boost over 18psi)

umm no emanage

So you're saying you made over 600HP at the wheels with an RB20 and less than 18 PSI??? I'm sceptical so do you have any proof?

He has an RB20+6

Alright, here's the update so far what I have done.

On Sunday morning I decide to swap out KA24DE motor and start prepping the RB20. Once the KA motor is out then pressure wash the engine bay for a new paint job. Scrubbing grease off and sanding was a work out but it was worth it. So now primer and looks like it hold up the paint pretty good. Waited for an hour for primer to dry then went for a gloss black. While the engine was done I decide to bolt up the oe flywheel and clutch then transmission.

Took off the intake manifold and valve cover and sand blast. Then primer and wrinkle black to intake manifold and red to valve cover. My engine harness from Wiring Specialties finally came in and freshly done nicely. I'm using stock ecu for now and focus to get the motor to start. After that everything will follow.

A few days passes by because of snow and luckily one day it was a warm day and snow was melting I knew what I had to do so the car was back in the shop and start mocking up the motor mounts. I remember seeing a picture that have to banged the top of the transmission tunnel and side and so I did.

I was using Top Hat engine mount conversion S13/S14 for RB 20/25/26 and still using stock KA engine mounts to able to finished this swap successfully. The result are the RB20 sits pretty nicely and wasn't to high or low and the most amazing part of all is the transmission bracket was lined up very dead on. After the swapped I was worried about the hood clearance and since that I'm still running everything stock so the J pipe is what I'm worry from contact the hood. The answer is, it was clear and no worries.

All wiring is all hooked up and at this point I'm just waiting for my intercooler piping kit. There's more to be done but only minor. As long the motor is in and that's all it matter for now. I can feel the RB20 awaken...

Notice the engine bay is pretty crappy looking and KA24DE is ready to swap out.




Hello RB20. Comparison from the blue valve to wrinkle red and wrinkle black intake manifold. I like it wrinkle red much better.




KA24DE is out.




And that's me and my so long bye bye KA motor.




Pressure wash the engine bay.




Engine bay is prepped clean and tapped.




Primer first coated.




Gloss black first coated.




Second coated gloss black and finished.




RB20 is in and clear the firewall after banging the transmission tunnel wall.




Lining up both brackets and ready to be tighten up.




VEGETA AND GOKU FUSION DANCE!!!!!

better hook up the Power steering pump or it's just going to suck to drive in a parking lot.

Yellow4g63 wrote:better hook up the Power steering pump or it's just going to suck to drive in a parking lot.

I heard that I can use the KA power steering pump and mock up a new bracket? I remember seeing this post on nico. Correct me if I'm wrong.

You need the RB25 power steering mounting bracket that goes on the motor.

Yellow4g63 wrote:You need the RB25 power steering mounting bracket that goes on the motor.

So you're saying to able to use the KA power steering pump I have to use RB25 power steering bracket?

yep

Thanks. I just remember how it feel not to have power steering for my SR20 S13 and it's suck! Especially no power steering when drifting.