Has anybody done one of these? I am having trouble figuring out how to reach the top bolt to remove the damn thing. I have seen a post about some tools used to remove one on an earlier style Q. Just seeing if there is a trick anyone knows. Thanks

Wish I could help, but I am just stunned this is required so soon!

I agree, that is crazy. My 300ZX starter lasted 17 years before it had to be replaced. My 1997 Q is on the original but has less milage....

Yeah, me too, but I do have 130k miles on it and I am in and out of it all day every day.

theska wrote:Yeah, me too, but I do have 130k miles on it and I am in and out of it all day every day.

My modded Q45 has about the same mileage and the starter often won't turn over. I put my other Q45 on the hoist to see how to take the starter out. Took me a while to figure out what and how.

Your engine needs to be cold as I drove this car into my workshop, running the engine for less than 2 minutes. When you are getting the tools in, you will have to wedge your hand and arm between the bell housing and the exhaust manifold/catalytic converter to insert the tools. You will need to remove the lower engine covers and the battery connections. Because you have to do this blind, you should first feel where the upper nut is located. There is a stud coming out of the block that the starter secures to. The lower part of the starter uses a bolt. Using 3/8 drive tools, you will need a 14mm deep socket that you will slide thru above the starter from the transmission side. On the front side, you will need a 3" extension connected to a universal joint, then long extension at least 15" or longer. From the front of the engine crossmember, slide these exensions up to the top of the back end of starter and connect to the 14mm deep socket (you can't slide all of these with the socket as there is not enough room). Now you can put that socket onto the nut, and remove.

I appreciate the insight. I figured the heat shield needed to be removed, but that caused me grief (couldn't remove it...rounded part wouldn't clear)and I ran out of daylight, so I will be back at it again tomorrow. Thanks again...I wish I wasn't 6'5" and I had hands the size of a ten year old...lol

my starter went uot about the same mile 121k.One trip under the car and I called triple A to tow it to a shop.THe guy struggled to get it out and asked if I would pay and extra hour than he quoted. I said NO PROBLEM!

In the end, I took it to a reputable shop after fighting with it for a few hours. It took them 4 hours to put it in. I was happy to pay the $200.00 for the labor...

Without a lift, I just cannot imagine even attempting. Wise move!

I just did this job, and have a few points to make the job easier.

1) I removed the 4 bolts(14mm), and one nut (17mm) holding the engine mounting in place, with the engine supported by a jack and block of wood. This allowed me to jack the engine up enough to move the mounting out of the way, which makes getting the concoction of socket, knuckle and extensions in there to get at the top nut on the starter.



2) I bought a 14mm knuckle socket to remove the engine mounting bolts. A normal socket wouldn't allow enough room to loosen the upper, rearmost bolt and remove it.



3) I used a 4 inch extension to remove the top nut. With the engine mounting out of the way, i could actually get my hand up in there and get a better "feel" of the socket going onto the nut.

4) Once the starter mounting bolt and nut are removed, the starter itself is very easy to remove from the vehicle.



5) When fitting the new starter, i found it slightly challenging to hold the nut in the socket and get it located on the stud. Solve this problem with some chewed chewing gum in the socket, and then place the nut in the socket. This held it in place and i was able to get it started on the stud pretty easily. The gum also acts as an indicate that you have indeed got the nut on the stud because as you tighten it, the stud pushes the gum further into the socket.

6) I recommend securing the top nut first and then the lower bolt just as another way of confirming that you've tightened the top nut successfully.

7) When reinstalling the mounting, get the mounting back in location, and get the four bolts all started, and then secured before lowering the jack supporting the engine and installing the lower mounting nut.

I reckon i could have it done in less than an hour now if i had to do it again. I took a couple of pics, which i'll post later.

This was worth it's weight in gold..



Modified by Dodgeyaussie at 8:53 PM 8/20/2009

Modified by Dodgeyaussie at 9:49 PM 8/20/2009
Modified by Dodgeyaussie at 10:01 PM 8/20/2009