Lobo240sx's SR20DET Rebuild Small Update ;) 2/17/2013

[Lobo240sx]

Figured I'd start my build thread here.


***This is already resolved***
Yeah yeah I know another SR20DET problem. Car won't idle if I don't give it a little throttle. I tried adjusting the CAS and idle screw in all kind of positions. TPS was never touched while it was apart so I don't think it is that. It back fires a little bit when you start it randomly.

When the car was ice cold it ran beautiful. As soon as I turned on my electric fans it died. I'm thinking the alternator might be causing this as well. Just getting some feed back from you fellows.

Here is what is all done to the car.

T70 Turbo with a 46mm external waste gate set for 15-16.5lbs, 550cc's, Apexi Power FC that had a previous tune on it by Boost Logic. Diesel truck oil cooler that sits in the front of the pignose bumper, Greddy FMIC, sandwich oil adapter for oil cooler, full exhaust, Battery relocated in the hatch.

Might have to get a retune looks like.
Do you think that porting your head with a valve job would make it run like that?? I tried to let it idle for awhile and it stopped running rich after 10 minutes. Any information would be helpful thanks!!! Have a Happy Thanksgiving.

[homeslicej2]

Make sure your TPS and MAF voltages (and sensors) are good. You might need a re-tune since you have changed air volume and velocity with the P&P. I'd also check the alternator and battery. Alt may be charging enough to keep engine running, but not enough for any level of electrical load.

[Lobo240sx]

I'm thinking the alternator is bad as it has never been replaced. I will take it to get tested. Alt fuse box all of the fuses are old and showing corrosion on the wire that is showing through the top of the plastic, so I'm going to start there as well. Before the head work, the car would randomly stop accelerating like a loss of power to everything. You have your foot on the pedal but it would buck like it was losing power, then catch.

Car has no MAF as it is hooked up by a vacuum sensor for the Apexi Power FC.

I want to be sure that this is the issue first before retuning the car.

[Lobo240sx]

Found that if I unplug my TPS the car will rev to about 5k. Still having the idle problem. Going to swap out my TPS today and see what happens.

[Lobo240sx]

Well after looking at some other stuff, I ran into another weird problem. As I was checking my TPS voltage I noticed a weird plastic burning smell. So I looked around and found that the stock O2 sensor that was hooked up was hot as hell to the touch. WTF? It ended up melting my boost controller wires together and possibly fried it. How the hell did it get hot like this when it wasn't even hooked up in the down pipe? The car wasn't even running just the key in the on position. As soon as I unplugged it, the car started to idle normal (800-900 rpm's) but it still is running rich. The boost controller is useless anyways so I might end up getting a manual one from Home Depot. I think it is like a refrigerator valve or something. I remember somebody using one of these on a 1JZ 6MGTE Supra with good success.

Car definitely needs a retune on the current map. Going to check out B&B performance tomorrow to see if they are able to tune it with the Power FC. B&B performance is the shop that had worked on the LeMan's Z06 a few years ago. They work with all kind of exotic cars and muscle cars. They are like less than 1/4 mile from my house. I will also stop by Boost Logic to see what they say could be wrong with it. I will be in that area going to a buddies house tomorrow.

When the car was ice cold, it ran a little rough but was idling fine. When I give it a little gas as soon as I let off it wants to die like too much fuel is getting to the engine. Reason I'm having to give it some kind of throttle after this action occurs.

[PyR0NiAk]

Do you have a wideband hooked up? If so, how are your AFRs behaving?

[Lobo240sx]

Do you have a wideband hooked up? If so, how are your AFRs behaving?

Yes car leans all the way out on the AFR reader like this (---) on idle but you can clearly see it running rich by the smoke and smell out the exhaust pipe. I checked all grounds and started to move wires around to see if any change in the engine running. The tuner told me to check the wire harness but I see no issues with it.

If you add some throttle the car will start to run normal ideal to rich. It doesn't really stay anywhere for an accurate reading. It moves everywhere as the ECU is trying to add and take out fuel + timing.

[Lobo240sx]

Well the timing is off. I think I set it to the second to the last mark on the left instead of the right... Doh!

I will set it to 15 degrees where it is supposed to be tomorrow and report back.

[homeslicej2]

Did you manage to sort this out?

[Lobo240sx]

Did you manage to sort this out?

It has been cold and raining the last few days. I will sort it out hopefully when the weather clears up.

[Lobo240sx]

I set the timing to 15* but the cams are off 9:55 intake and 11:55 exhaust. I need to jump them over one link then it will be set. Wrestling with 2 chain tensioners. Nissan could have done a better job with the PITA hydraulic chain tensioner. Messing with that took me longer than putting the cams and crank markings in time. I have been going to job interviews, and helped out a friend look at a King Ranch F150. Only problem now is it is supposed to rain again this weekend. I will keep up with updates when I have time and the weather isn't fuxored. Need to win a million dollars so I can have a house with a garage. Wishful thinking. Peace and chicken grease.

[Lobo240sx]

I put the cams at 10 and 12 with 15 degrees timing. Car still won't idle and not running right. I'm gonna have to wait till next year to figure it out. It is getting cold outside and I don't want to get sick.

[PyR0NiAk]

I put the cams at 10 and 12 with 15 degrees timing. Car still won't idle and not running right. I'm gonna have to wait till next year to figure it out. It is getting cold outside and I don't want to get sick.

Cahartt does wonders in the cold... I hate to mention this, but have you done a compression check? If timing is set, and you're getting fuel and spark, that only leaves timing and compression. You say you're completely leaned out, but still getting fuel smoke out the exhaust, it sounds like one cylinder isn't burning fuel.

[Lobo240sx]

Cahartt does wonders in the cold... I hate to mention this, but have you done a compression check? If timing is set, and you're getting fuel and spark, that only leaves timing and compression. You say you're completely leaned out, but still getting fuel smoke out the exhaust, it sounds like one cylinder isn't burning fuel.

I'm thinking the same thing too. I will get a compression tester and see where the #'s are at. I might not be getting good enough spark to allow the fuel to burn also. If that test out good, then it might be my coil packs or wiring. The other thing that is wrong is my air temp sensor shouldn't be reading -34* C. I talked to the tuner and he said that also could be causing a rich fuel mix.

I've been reading on a lot of similar problems and people replaced their harness with a wiring specialties one. Fixed a lot of weird problems. I really don't want to be throwing parts at it right now so compression check and testing power to the coil packs.

[Lobo240sx]

Good news and bad news. Good news is the car is finally running. I had the Coil packs 1 and 2 were reversed causing all kind of weird problems. Bad news is the oil pump cover has a groove in it where the front main seal sits. Very small leak and I will keep an eye on it. Other than that she boosts fine and boy I tell you this car gets up quick. A/F ratio is between 13-14.

Other problem is I am going to need a better alternator as if you put any load on it ( turn the fans on, Push the clutch in, turn on the lights on) it will want to stall. I'm thinking about an aftermarket alternator or a Nissan Quest and modify it. CAS is making a bearing noise which is annoying. The way the car sits right now I am not going to mess with anything right now lol. I won't be driving it much anyways and loved to see peoples head turn when I was passing by. Sigh of relief for now. SR20DET FTMFW .

[PyR0NiAk]

[homeslicej2]

Glad to hear. As for the alternator, I recommend getting a Quest alt and buying Codyace's adapter. Was a quick and easy install. Make sure your grounds are good as well.

[Wiring Specialties]

Cahartt does wonders in the cold... I hate to mention this, but have you done a compression check? If timing is set, and you're getting fuel and spark, that only leaves timing and compression. You say you're completely leaned out, but still getting fuel smoke out the exhaust, it sounds like one cylinder isn't burning fuel.

I'm thinking the same thing too. I will get a compression tester and see where the #'s are at. I might not be getting good enough spark to allow the fuel to burn also. If that test out good, then it might be my coil packs or wiring. The other thing that is wrong is my air temp sensor shouldn't be reading -34* C. I talked to the tuner and he said that also could be causing a rich fuel mix.

I've been reading on a lot of similar problems and people replaced their harness with a wiring specialties one. Fixed a lot of weird problems. I really don't want to be throwing parts at it right now so compression check and testing power to the coil packs.

Happens more than I can say. We've rid electrical gremlins from so many cars over the years just by doing a harness swap.

[Lobo240sx]

Happens more than I can say. We've rid electrical gremlins from so many cars over the years just by doing a harness swap.

We don't think that is what it is at the moment. Need to put the 2 wires power for the fuse box back on the main power harness. When I had my battery relocated in the back a gazillion years ago is when I had the problem with the battery draining out. We put a distribution block at the engine bay then. I am going to remove it. Different engine and harness same problem so harness is out of the question. However when I get ready to build my block which won't be for awhile I will purchase your harness.

Hopefully I can get this cable installer job and roll with that for a bit(I'll be driving a company truck which will be a spiff for 5.00/gal gas we are gonna see this summer ) then get back to my project sometime after the summer. Need to get oil cover, clutch and flywheel set, rear/front main seals, reseal baffle oil plate, oil catch can, install spare timing chain guides, spare CAS, and she will run golden.

[Seishuku]

Bad news is the oil pump cover has a groove in it where the front main seal sits. Very small leak and I will keep an eye on it.

Heh, join the club. I accidentally scratched mine, actually more like a gouge... Still kinda pissed about that.

Quick question though, you're running 15PSI on a T70 with 550CC injectors... What kind of duty cycle are you running at full load?
I'm running 12PSI on my T25g with 528CC injectors, and I'm already at 80%.
I can't imagine what you're running...

[Lobo240sx]

Heh, join the club. I accidentally scratched mine, actually more like a gouge... Still kinda pissed about that.

Quick question though, you're running 15PSI on a T70 with 550CC injectors... What kind of duty cycle are you running at full load?
I'm running 12PSI on my T25g with 528CC injectors, and I'm already at 80%.
I can't imagine what you're running...

LOL. Yeah the car has been sitting too long so I'm gonna have to freshen her up with some grey silicone.

The Power FC tune is set for 65% duty cycle which is VERY conservative (357.5cc's). There is a lot more power to be made.... This turbo is so big before doing the port and polish, it would take awhile to kick in around 3500rpms. Full boost hits around 4000rpms. It is a real 'peaky' turbo. All I can say is you better have both hands on that steering wheel at full boost especially after I ported and polished it with a valve job. Turbo Blanket helps it spool quicker and keeps my brake reservoir from melting. It is less restrictive and less lag now and feels like a bit more power than 280rwhp. Car is gonna need a retune but should be making somewhere in the 300-310rwhp @ 15psi ballpark now.

I know you have a T2Small but I don't recommend to go over 70-75% duty cycle. I want to eventually build a block and go all out probably 850 or 1000cc injectors. For now I want to be able to drive it at a safe tune and cooler temps. AFR's are around 13-14. When I did a 22psi run it still stayed there but was making a lot of power. Maybe 320-330whp on stock cams.

"Car is an absolute rocket ship WOT." / Nelson Racing Engines

[Seishuku]

Ok, that doesn't really answer my question...

So you're making 300WHP on 350CC (x4) of fuel?
That would mean I'm making like 450WHP... With a T25!

I'm using 80% of 528CC injectors at a 11.5:1 AFR, that's a lot of fuel making power there.

Most people shoot for 80-85% duty, that's safe.

[Lobo240sx]

Ok, that doesn't really answer my question...

So you're making 300WHP on 350CC (x4) of fuel?
That would mean I'm making like 450WHP... With a T25!

I'm using 80% of 528CC injectors at a 11.5:1 AFR, that's a lot of fuel making power there.

Most people shoot for 80-85% duty, that's safe.

You asked what duty cycle I was running and I said 65%. The tuner told me he was going to lean it out to be ideal 12-14 AFR's. I could add fuel if I wanted to but only wanted the car to make close to 300whp. I answered your question.

[Lobo240sx]

So my knocking issue was finally revealed today. As I was pulling the oil pump cover off, one set of the main bearings literally were hanging out the block where the crank sprocket sits. I grabbed them with my hand... :o . Holy 5hit I got reaaal lucky. Definitely gonna need oversize on the mains.

Looks like the timing chain guide bracket plastic fell to pieces and got sucked up in the oil pickup. This caused the oil not to get to the bearings, and closed the small oil hole on the bearing.



Water pump propeller looks brand new.



That's all for now. Block will be dropped off at the machine shop for inspection. Stay tuned for a different paint job on the engine bay.

[Lobo240sx]

I decided to use my Redtop block instead. Time to go to the rest of the dark side lol.

Block will be cleaned thoroughly and done right. Machine shop had received a knocking built H22 and had crap all in the oil passages and girdles. The machinist Mark could tell it wasn't done right by the previous machine shop. I will get the measurements from them and order up some CP Pistons Stock 8.5:1 compression and .20 over will be plenty for now.

[Lobo240sx]

I just got some small updates. Been busy lately. Here are some pics of the engine bay paint. Need to sand some more in areas and respray. I'll finish it off with some clear coat. I originally wanted to rhino line the engine bay, but decided to go high temp flat black.

[Lobo240sx]

Got a small update. As you all know it is getting closer to the holidays. My brother just got married On top of that I will have to move next month. Finally, getting a house with a garage!!! . So unfortunately, you won't see any updates for awhile, but I will update when possible. The machine shop is finally catching up so I am next in line.

Here are some pics of the clear coat. Next will be to replace the brake booster with my friend since he is waaay shorter than me, plus he didn't want me to take out my front seat to do it. He basically "volunteered" lol. I haven't fully painted everywhere. I wanted to see how it came out so a lot of testing was done. Turned out good I think? The front support I will clear coat it after the engine is in. i don't want to scratch it up and have to redo it.

***BEFORE the clear coat including the pics above this post.***




My oil cooler in front of the pignose bumper.


***AFTER Clear coat***

[Lobo240sx]

Hey there. Back for now. Been REEEEEEAAAL busy so just moved to the new house. few side projects in Music and freestyle so I'll update when possible. 2013

[Lobo240sx]

SR20DET 700-800HP REDTOP REBUILD COMING SOON!!
.20 over CP PISTONS, MAHLE H BEAMS,BC 280-290 CAMS, CLEVITE BEARINGS STANDARD, MAZWORX HEAD STUDS, ARP ROD STUDS, ARP MAIN STUDS,1200-1600CC INJECTORS, AIR TO WATER COOLER, DIESEL TRUCK OIL COOLER, HEAD FULLY PORTED AND POLISHED, Oh yeah.... Roll cage , Seat harnesses, Fire Extinguisher, Heavy Duty Competition Flywheel/Clutch, Slicks lol.

MAZWORX Brake Booster Eliminator w/ Dual Outlet Master Cylinder S13. Why have it when you only use like 5-10% or your rear brakes. If I want to lock up the back just pull the E-Brake. Old School Cable System over New Technology FTW.

The turbo haven't decided yet. For now the T70 will stay on. Probably go with a Precision 6262 or a billet wheel for the T70. Peace!

[PyR0NiAk]

A lot of local guys run the 6262 on their dsms... Most make around 650 whp.