sr20 cooling
sr20 cooling
ok now i have a 1989 HB s13. i put in a sr20 black top and swap went great no big probs or any thing, but im haven a prob with my electric fans cooling my sr20. every time i drive it i have anti-freez coming out of the coolent tank.. but im never really low on anti-freeze. i set my electric fans to kick on at 115 degrees. any lower and it killed my battery, even at 115 degrees it kills my battery a lil bit. wat can i do to make this problem stop?
Re: sr20 cooling (cary)
Bleed the coolant system make sure there are no bubbles in it. Jack the car up from the Drivers side or preferably the front. Open the bleeder screw. You dont need to jack it up too much.
Then fill it with coolant until it comes out of the bleeder screw. Let it set for 5 minutes maybe push on the car some to shake any bubbles loose. Just for safeties sake, I always switch the in car thermostat to "Full Hot" as this mechanically opens your Heater core to allow fluid in and out and maybe air.
Make sure the resevoir is filled to the appropriate level. I always put the cap back on the radiator and start the car. Then come around to the front of the radiator and take the cap off. Wait for your car to warm up and you SHOULD see the coolant level drop some and flow through the radiator. When the coolant level drops if it doesn't come up too shortly after add more coolant or distilled water.
If you didn't see water flow through the radiator than you probably have a bad thermostat given that your car has warmed up and is starting to overheat.
Now, on the draining the battery and 115 degree kick on temperature. I have my fans running the whole time the car is on. They're Altima fans, I have no problems of battery drainage. Explain your problem with the battery a little more.
Then fill it with coolant until it comes out of the bleeder screw. Let it set for 5 minutes maybe push on the car some to shake any bubbles loose. Just for safeties sake, I always switch the in car thermostat to "Full Hot" as this mechanically opens your Heater core to allow fluid in and out and maybe air.
Make sure the resevoir is filled to the appropriate level. I always put the cap back on the radiator and start the car. Then come around to the front of the radiator and take the cap off. Wait for your car to warm up and you SHOULD see the coolant level drop some and flow through the radiator. When the coolant level drops if it doesn't come up too shortly after add more coolant or distilled water.
If you didn't see water flow through the radiator than you probably have a bad thermostat given that your car has warmed up and is starting to overheat.
Now, on the draining the battery and 115 degree kick on temperature. I have my fans running the whole time the car is on. They're Altima fans, I have no problems of battery drainage. Explain your problem with the battery a little more.
Re: sr20 cooling (cary)
well be fore i did my sr20 motor swap i thought i would do a electric fan swap to save some time. i bought flex-a-lite fans. i put in a odyees racen battery, after i did the sr20 swap. i had to buy a thermostat kit for the electric fans to work how they shoud. i set the thermostat for the fans at 120 temp, if i tune the thermostat any lower the electric fans will kick on and off all day long if its really humid. is there and way i can wire them up to a relay or set them up a different way to make them work with out my battery drainen.
Re: sr20 cooling (cary)
Yes, you can wire up your fans just like I did, as soon as the key is in the "ACC" position the fans will come on.
On the Relay box on the driver's side of the engine bay. Look for the "ACC"(Accessories relay). You'll need to disassemble the Relay Box to get at this relay from the bottom side. If you aren't using A/C or your Pop Up Headlights(Silvia Front) or I suppose you could go buy a 30 Amp Automotive Relay. You can use either relay Cut one of the two relays out and leave a decent section of wiring out to solder too.
Now on the "ACC" relay there is a Signal wire and the Signal ground. Find the Signal wire by disassembling the Relay and looking inside of it for the numbers by the 4 Pins. Then match to that of the diagram on the head of Relay. There should be:
"# *Line with Break* #""# *Line with Squiggly* #"
Now the Signal wire is the lowest number associated with the "Line with Squiggly". You need to tap into that wire and run it to the same equivalent on your relay. If its a nissan A/C or Headlight Return Relay, Odds are its EXACTLY the same. Wire it to the lower of the 2 numbers on the "Line with Squiggly"
Now you can take higher of the 2 numbers on the "Line with Squiggly" and you can either run the Fan Relay Signal Ground to the "ACC" Relay Signal Ground. Or You can ground it out to the Chassis right behind where your drivers side headlight has lots of chassis grounds. You'll see it. I hope.
Now, you'll need some pretty decent gauge wire. Go to Radioshack and buy some decent wire and a package of Ring Connectors for the end of the wire. You're gonna be attaching this to your Battery terminal so size it according to the stud that 10mm nut is on on the Positive Terminal. You'll run your wire from the positive terminal to the Fan Relay you are making. Attach it to either side of the 2 remaining wires on the Fan Relay. Now lengthen the other end of that last wire remaining on the Fan Relay and run it the power wires of your Fans. Wire in your thermostat how you'd like and set it however you'd like as it won't turn on randomly. Now ground your fans to Chassis.
And In the end it should look a little something like this.
On the Relay box on the driver's side of the engine bay. Look for the "ACC"(Accessories relay). You'll need to disassemble the Relay Box to get at this relay from the bottom side. If you aren't using A/C or your Pop Up Headlights(Silvia Front) or I suppose you could go buy a 30 Amp Automotive Relay. You can use either relay Cut one of the two relays out and leave a decent section of wiring out to solder too.
Now on the "ACC" relay there is a Signal wire and the Signal ground. Find the Signal wire by disassembling the Relay and looking inside of it for the numbers by the 4 Pins. Then match to that of the diagram on the head of Relay. There should be:
"# *Line with Break* #""# *Line with Squiggly* #"
Now the Signal wire is the lowest number associated with the "Line with Squiggly". You need to tap into that wire and run it to the same equivalent on your relay. If its a nissan A/C or Headlight Return Relay, Odds are its EXACTLY the same. Wire it to the lower of the 2 numbers on the "Line with Squiggly"
Now you can take higher of the 2 numbers on the "Line with Squiggly" and you can either run the Fan Relay Signal Ground to the "ACC" Relay Signal Ground. Or You can ground it out to the Chassis right behind where your drivers side headlight has lots of chassis grounds. You'll see it. I hope.
Now, you'll need some pretty decent gauge wire. Go to Radioshack and buy some decent wire and a package of Ring Connectors for the end of the wire. You're gonna be attaching this to your Battery terminal so size it according to the stud that 10mm nut is on on the Positive Terminal. You'll run your wire from the positive terminal to the Fan Relay you are making. Attach it to either side of the 2 remaining wires on the Fan Relay. Now lengthen the other end of that last wire remaining on the Fan Relay and run it the power wires of your Fans. Wire in your thermostat how you'd like and set it however you'd like as it won't turn on randomly. Now ground your fans to Chassis.
And In the end it should look a little something like this.
Re: sr20 cooling (cary)
kool thanks that helps alot. ill do that as soon as i get my car back from the pain t shop.
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