sputtering

Forum for the Xterra, Frontier and Hardbody, the smaller workhorses of the Nissan lineup!
o0Syn
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Hey guys I have a 96 hardbody and for the past 2 days i have had a sputtering out issue. I put in a half tank of gas 2 days ago and that is when the problem began I'm thinking it is bad gas but I just want to get more opinions.

Once the truck is warmed up it seems like fuel is sort of cutting out. When it is cold there doesn't seem to be an issue. This fuel sputter/cut out can happen at idle or rolling at any speed and it usually doesn't turn off the motor only makes RPMs drop. The check engine has come on. I replaced the fuel pump assembly last winter so I'm pretty sure it is not that. The exhaust definitely smells kinda funny, cant really describe it. Almost like Burnt hair or something close to that.

Any ideas would be a huge help, I'm going to drain the gas tank this afternoon and see what happens when I refill.
-Jon (o0Syn)


StephenG
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87 Nissan 200sx CA20E 5spd

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Go ahead and replace the fuel filter too. Might not hurt to run a bottle of HEAT through it also just to make sure theres no water in there.

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RT22
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Just a stab in the dark but a bad sealing gas cap can mess with the fuel pressure make sure cap is tight.

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Rev_D21
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My 96 does the same thing except, it sputters when cold. To give a back story, I have had multiple recurring #4 cylinder misfire codes. I replaced the plug and it went away for a short time but then the miss came back. It really does it after a good rain or on a rainy day. It will hesitate until it is fully warm, from there it just lacks any balls. I have a feeling the previous owners never tuned it up in the 138k they had owned it. The screws on my dizzy cap are rusted from having been on so long. I have a set of wires, rotor and cap coming from rockauto this week. This weekend will be a good time for me to work on it.


How does your tune-up look? Is it recent? What was the code you got when the check engine light came on?

o0Syn
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Joined: Fri Nov 13, 2009 7:34 am
Car: 92 Nissan 240SX Convertible
Location: Milwaukee WI
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Thanx for the responses guys I'm tearing into your suggestions tomorrow.

Getting a code reader tomorrow as well, as far as I know it was serviced @ the dealer before I bought it. They did new plugs and wires and the top end seal. I still have the great old tick of mystery between 2.2k-4.5k Rpm.(lifters r next) I did the timing chain last winter and the fuel pump & assembly because I had problems with that last spring. That's all I've done so far besides oil changes and such and it has 138k. It had one owner who lives in this state too not sure how caring he was but the body is in great shape compared to most that I see in this forsaken state.

It doesn't quite seem like a misfire I'm thinking its a sensor now because when it's cold everything acts normal but when its a little warmed up or at operating temps it starts this hesitation like it's going to fall on its face then mysteriously comes back up without snuffing it's self out.

I did have some slight hesitation issues over the summer when it would heavily rain but I assumed it was from my slightly advanced timing setting that I never re-adjusted. It would go away as I used it and the engine warmed.

Side notes: When I engage the clutch there is a squeak lately too (throw out bearing?) but i'm sure that is unrelated also a squelch sometimes when I turn the A/c on but I am pretty sure that is all unrelated to this as well

thanx for the responses guys (especially Rev you are a D21 guru :mike )

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waynegarcia13
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Car: 1997 Nissan Hardbody Pickup 2wd
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Location: San Antonio, TX

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Sounds like a bad distributor to me. Go buy a cheap little inline spark tester they're like $5 at the auto parts store. Hook it up to one of the wires and run your truck until it starts sputtering and watch the spark closely to see if it misses a beat. I bet that's what it is because i had the exact same problem. Also pull the plugs out and check them then clean them off with. The problem is gonna be either a spark or fuel pressure problem but most likely a spark problem, go ahead and change the filter or test it your self by removing it and blowing threw it. You should be able to blow threw the filter like it's a straw"with little resistance" if it is hard to blow threw then there is your problem. Let me know what you find out.

o0Syn
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We read the code today and it is returning a p0100 says MAF sensor so I ordered a MAF hopefully that fixes it! :gotme

Checked the fuel filter I blew out the remaining gas with no real restriction, after the gas is gone its kinda harder to blow through dunno if that means anything.

Tried a bottle of water remover no luck there.

I really don't think it is spark related but if the MAF replacement doesn't work I'll definitely start there. I also ran out and got a can of MAF cleaner no luck there either. I disconnected the MAF to see what would happen and I couldn't get the car to rev past 3k it was acting like it was limited. So I dunno seems like my MAF is dieing out to me, hopefully that's all I gotta do.

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waynegarcia13
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Car: 1997 Nissan Hardbody Pickup 2wd
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Dude the MAF sensor is the problem period. The MAF sensor controls the fuel ratio so it is either running it way to rich or lean. Everytime the maf goes bad the motor WILL NOT run period so look no more.

o0Syn
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Replaced MAF, problem still exists. :tisk:
I checked my plugs and one was loose, I could spin it with my hand and it looked very dry and black as hell. So I'm getting 4 new plugs tomorrow.

*crossing fingers* hoping my rabbit hole ends soon!

StephenG
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Car: 93 Nissan Hardbody 2wd KA24E 5spd
87 Nissan 200sx CA20E 5spd

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Hehe, hold all calls, we have a winner!

o0Syn
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I held off on the plugs and tried draining the gas tank. Boy was that fun ...NOT! I went out and got a cheapo siphon kit from a local ACE hardware and that thing was absolute s***! The inside of the rubber pump started deteriorating leaving chunks of rubber in the tube! :mad: So I ripped it apart and used just the tube to old school siphon with a mouthful of gas, it worked at first then no more. Luckily my neighbor had an aquarium pump and 2 old pieces of hose laying around so I used that to pump it all out. Filled it up, No luck.

Gonna go ahead and try plugs I guess just hope I'm not wasting my money. Anyone know what is generally a good brand and type to go for?? Are the regular old cheapo coppers OK to use? :gotme from what I've researched so far people are recommending some platinum's

seang
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I used bosch platinum in the past with good results, those were single tipped.

Coppers will work, I have them in my truck right now. From what I understand, copper plugs provide a decent flame front they just don't last as long as platinum tipped. I will be happy if I get 20,000 miles out of them.

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waynegarcia13
Posts: 79
Joined: Fri Jun 25, 2010 12:17 am
Car: 1997 Nissan Hardbody Pickup 2wd
2.4L: custom made cold air intake,
oil cooler, suspension lift, exhaust,
upholstery, stereo sys., paint
Location: San Antonio, TX

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ok so did you check the spark?? The dizzy on our truck has the coil inside and it will sputter when its going bad. So like i said before go buy a cheap $3 spark tester and check the spark.

o0Syn
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what am I looking for when I check the spark? how many volts should it go up to?

Is there a way I can check jut the distributor? I am betting it is that now that I think about it.

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waynegarcia13
Posts: 79
Joined: Fri Jun 25, 2010 12:17 am
Car: 1997 Nissan Hardbody Pickup 2wd
2.4L: custom made cold air intake,
oil cooler, suspension lift, exhaust,
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Location: San Antonio, TX

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What i am telling you is the way to check the distributor. When checking the spark with a inline spark tester there is no voltage amount to check. The spark tester is just light a circuit tester it has a light bulb inside and it lights up when 12v runs threw it, im guessing you have never used one before so i will try to teach you. It is really simple to use, one side plugs into the spark plug wire and the other side plugs into the spark plug. While you crank or run the engine you can watch the light bulb inside of the tester light up. If the motor is running good it will flash with a steady rhythm. The light will flash every time power is being sent to the spark plug, so obviously if it misses a one or more flashes then you have a spark problem. If your distributor is bad you will notice the tester not lighting coincides with the motor running bad and sputtering.

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waynegarcia13
Posts: 79
Joined: Fri Jun 25, 2010 12:17 am
Car: 1997 Nissan Hardbody Pickup 2wd
2.4L: custom made cold air intake,
oil cooler, suspension lift, exhaust,
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Location: San Antonio, TX

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So try that and if you don't find a problem let me know and we can figure this out. If you lived somewhere by me i would go check it out for you.

seang
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Tell me you went ahead and installed new plugs, they are too cheap not to blame.

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Desert Rat
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Yeah, do the plugs first before you spend a lot of money on the other stuff. OEM NGKs are as good as anything. I also recommend you stick with OEM parts on wires, cap, and rotor. These are normal tuneup items that should be replaced on a truck as old as yours anyways.

o0Syn
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I gave up on the guessing game and took it in to a local shop he did the diag for $50. My bro-in law is firends with the mechanic and he's traced the problem down to the Mass Airflow Connector/Pigtail.:ohno: He said if he would finesse the wire a bit it would run normal or create problems.

Seems my only option is junk yard, hopefully I can find one otherwise I need the whole engine harness. If anyone has had to deal with this please help me out! :sad:

does anyone know what years or vehicles have the same connectors? I have a 96 with manual trans

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longtooth
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I would replace the wires and terminals. At least thats what we do in the shop.

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waynegarcia13
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Car: 1997 Nissan Hardbody Pickup 2wd
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I called that!!! I told you it was the MAF See if you just listen to the advise im telling you. Look here buddy, go to a junk yard, but do to one that you can pull the parts or the parts puller guy personally takes you to the car and pulls them for you and ask the guy while your looking at the truck if you can cut part of the wire harness since you only need the wires going to the MAF and DIZZY, DO NOT ASK ABOUT IT AT THE COUNTER! I have the the wires you need because f**ked mine up awhile ago but fixed them instead of replacing.

o0Syn
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Finally got it back 2 days ago. MAFS, MAFS connector wireing, and O2 sensor were all to blame.

Now I am having a cold start issue as of yesterday. :wtf2:
I go to start it when it is cold and it idles up to its usual spot then i release the clutch for it to sit in neutral and it starts so sputter down and comes back up to idle and does so several times or dies. Once the engine is warm all is well

Any ideas?

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malibumarlin
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For my 1997 Pickup XE, it was a slightly broken wire on the connector to the MAF sensor. That's why when the problem first started presenting itself, it was random event. But when the wire finally gave way, at which point only a few strands of copper were entact, is when the engine quit running properly. If I didn't have a diagnostic tool to alert me that it was the MAF Sensor, I would have never found the source of the problem because the broken wire was so obscure, and still hanging by a few threads, that upon 'looking things over', I would have never seen the cracked wire housing. The image here shows it after I dissected everything, and had to figure out a repair for the harness connector. The problem was not having access to the metal connector pin found in the harness connector. So I had to carefully open it up the tabs, splice a piece of wire in.

This was from 2011. Today, it's still purring like a cat.

Also, when you remove the MAF Sensor, be careful not to damage the rubber O-ring. Mine was dried out, and a replacement was nowhere to be found. I had to make do with one from a hardware store that was smaller diameter, but fatter, so when stretched over the sensor, it fit. Make sure you apply a non-petrol based lube to the oring before reinserting so as to not damage the seal.

As for the harness connector, you'll just have to search junk yards for any Nissans that might use that MAF and or connector.

Photos from the project:
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malibumarlin
Posts: 12
Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2011 10:18 pm
Car: 1997 nissan pick-up xe king cab KA24E 5.spd 214,000 mi and counting!
Location: Calabasas, CA
Contact:

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For my 1997 Pickup XE, it was a slightly broken wire on the connector to the MAF sensor. That's why when the problem first started presenting itself, it was random event. But when the wire finally gave way, at which point only a few strands of copper were entact, is when the engine quit running properly. If I didn't have a diagnostic tool to alert me that it was the MAF Sensor, I would have never found the source of the problem because the broken wire was so obscure, and still hanging by a few threads, that upon 'looking things over', I would have never seen the cracked wire housing. The image here shows it after I dissected everything, and had to figure out a repair for the harness connector. The problem was not having access to the metal connector pin found in the harness connector. So I had to carefully open it up the tabs, splice a piece of wire in.

This was from 2011. Today, it's still purring like a cat.

Also, when you remove the MAF Sensor, be careful not to damage the rubber O-ring. Mine was dried out, and a replacement was nowhere to be found. I had to make do with one from a hardware store that was smaller diameter, but fatter, so when stretched over the sensor, it fit. Make sure you apply a non-petrol based lube to the oring before reinserting so as to not damage the seal.

As for the harness connector, you'll just have to search junk yards for any Nissans that might use that MAF and or connector.

Photos from the project:
Image
Image
Image
Image
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Image


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