Which of the 2 lines from the damper do I connect the clutch line to in order to bypass it?
When I ordered the SS clutchline I asked if it would bypass the damper, and they told me it would. I lined it up today, and it was 2" longer than the stock rubber hose, but looks like it needs another 3" to line up where the damper box is.
SPL Clutch line/Damper bypass
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sleepyRPS13
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Re: (sleepyRPS13)
Yeah, for some reason i thought that line coming straight from the master was too small to meet up with the flex line.
Thanks for the link!
Thanks for the link!
Re: (Zion8561)
Ok, I installed the SS SPL clutch line today, and did the damper bypass. The hard line bent a lot easier than I thought it would (I used a line tool so it would not kink up).
One note about clutch bleeding I learned the hard way: After doing the maintenance I went to bleed the clutch, but the Master cylinder had emptied...I filled it up, but no pressure would build (clutch pedal would just swing freely, and even stay on the floor) and fluid level stayed the same.
I took the bleeder screw all the way out of the Slave, and let it sit for about 5 minutes to let the fluid gravity feed into the lines. Then I topped it off and cycled the clutch 3-4 times with the bleeder completely off, then reinstalled it and bled normally with good pressure buildup. Maybe this is common knowledge, but this was my first experience with a hydraulic clutch job.
One note about clutch bleeding I learned the hard way: After doing the maintenance I went to bleed the clutch, but the Master cylinder had emptied...I filled it up, but no pressure would build (clutch pedal would just swing freely, and even stay on the floor) and fluid level stayed the same.
I took the bleeder screw all the way out of the Slave, and let it sit for about 5 minutes to let the fluid gravity feed into the lines. Then I topped it off and cycled the clutch 3-4 times with the bleeder completely off, then reinstalled it and bled normally with good pressure buildup. Maybe this is common knowledge, but this was my first experience with a hydraulic clutch job.
Re: (Zion8561)
My master cylinder appeared full initially, but when I popped the cap off and looked inside it was empty and there was a black film buildup on the reservoir up to the "max" marking, so it still looked full from the outside.
I guess opening the lines on the bottom pulled the fluid from the reservoir and drained it out.
I guess opening the lines on the bottom pulled the fluid from the reservoir and drained it out.
Re: (Zion8561)
Ouch Zion. As a matter of fact, my beautiful JDM 180SX is sitting outside on the street with this exact problem: black residue in my empy master clutch resevoir. If you figure this out maybe post out what you found.
I'm really nervous why there's such a nasty residue. DOT3/4 fluid should be clear or brown. I hope some ****head didn't pour oil in there. I hope the leaking is in a line under my car and it bled on the highway.
Too all those that have done some repair before, if my slave has gone, is there any possibility of getting fluid in the bell housing around the clutch and pressure plate?
I haven't had time to jack my car up yet, but i suspect a line fitting has failed. I hope so. I can't drop the transmission out on the street. I can't afford the labour rates in my city either. It's sad that such a simple job that takes this amount of time is the same labour rate as having a tech rebuild your engine!
I'm really nervous why there's such a nasty residue. DOT3/4 fluid should be clear or brown. I hope some ****head didn't pour oil in there. I hope the leaking is in a line under my car and it bled on the highway.
Too all those that have done some repair before, if my slave has gone, is there any possibility of getting fluid in the bell housing around the clutch and pressure plate?
I haven't had time to jack my car up yet, but i suspect a line fitting has failed. I hope so. I can't drop the transmission out on the street. I can't afford the labour rates in my city either. It's sad that such a simple job that takes this amount of time is the same labour rate as having a tech rebuild your engine!
Re: (reeskm)
Very small chance. I'd say less than 0.01%reeskm wrote:Too all those that have done some repair before, if my slave has gone, is there any possibility of getting fluid in the bell housing around the clutch and pressure plate?
I read somewhere that the nasty black is a sign your seals are going out, but I got that crap 3 days after I rebuilt my master cylinder, and it's been fine for 1+ years.
Re: (corn322)
One more questions: I had my car jacked up and I was checking for a leak to no avail. Basically, my clutch fluid dissapeared out of my clutch MC so I was sure there was a leak. Second, my clutch would no longer disengage...
I was playing with my slave cylinder and trying to figure out how it works. Normally, when the pedal is to the floor (clutch 'disengaged') should the slave cylinder push *out* on the release bearing and arm? Or does it get sucked in?
Cause basically there is no spring operation on my release bearing. In other words, there is play between the operating cylinder. Have I blown my operating cylinder? This FSM dosen't really have much in terms of troubleshooting...
I was playing with my slave cylinder and trying to figure out how it works. Normally, when the pedal is to the floor (clutch 'disengaged') should the slave cylinder push *out* on the release bearing and arm? Or does it get sucked in?
Cause basically there is no spring operation on my release bearing. In other words, there is play between the operating cylinder. Have I blown my operating cylinder? This FSM dosen't really have much in terms of troubleshooting...
Re: (corn322)
with the car not running, why does my release bearing fork not spring back towards the front of my car when i manually push in the slave cylinder? should it?
First make sure you have the air out of your system. Let gravity do the bleeding for you. Pour fluid into the reservoir and open the bleeder at the slave. From there when the fluid starts to seep out of the slave's bleeder, close it and start the bleeding procedure.
1. make sure the reservoir's full.2. pump about a dozen or so times and hold.3. open the bleeder valve and check the clear line you should have attached to it for air bubbles in the fluid.4. repeat 1-3 until the fluid coming out of the bleeder is clear and free of bubbles.
When you manually push in the slave cylinder? Either your slave is busted and not moving or your fork is bent. Pray it's the slave that's kicked the bucket if you can't afford transmission install rates.
1. make sure the reservoir's full.2. pump about a dozen or so times and hold.3. open the bleeder valve and check the clear line you should have attached to it for air bubbles in the fluid.4. repeat 1-3 until the fluid coming out of the bleeder is clear and free of bubbles.
When you manually push in the slave cylinder? Either your slave is busted and not moving or your fork is bent. Pray it's the slave that's kicked the bucket if you can't afford transmission install rates.