I went out today to look at a GT-R already in Canada. Now I have a few questions.

How hard is it to work on a skyline? As far as upgrading parts go well I be able to do most of it myself? I've been working on cars since I was old enough to walk and I'm working on my automotive mechanic trade this year and next year.

Would it be daily driver material?

If a skyline is suppose to be all about power, and makes number around 270hp stock, how come the speedometer only goes to 180 km/h? Seeing my accord has been speed trapped at 268 km/h I sure hope that a skyline could do better.

Is it adjustable AWD or 100% rear to 50/50 split?

What should I be looking for before I buy this car? It's a 1993 GT-R with twin turbo 100% stock with 73k kms on it.

Thanks in advance

they can be a pita to work on, be patient with it, its allot different then your ''302whp'' honduh

Papadirty wrote:I went out today to look at a GT-R already in Canada. Now I have a few questions.

How hard is it to work on a skyline? As far as upgrading parts go well I be able to do most of it myself? I've been working on cars since I was old enough to walk and I'm working on my automotive mechanic trade this year and next year.

Would it be daily driver material?

If a skyline is suppose to be all about power, and makes number around 270hp stock, how come the speedometer only goes to 180 km/h? Seeing my accord has been speed trapped at 268 km/h I sure hope that a skyline could do better.

Is it adjustable AWD or 100% rear to 50/50 split?

What should I be looking for before I buy this car? It's a 1993 GT-R with twin turbo 100% stock with 73k kms on it.

Thanks in advance

First off, congrats on a possible purchase. Now, let's get some of your questions covered right quick.


The power is rated at 280ps (276hp) because during the time the R32, R33 and R34 were made, there was a gentleman's agreement that stated no cars could be advertised at producing more than 280ps. In reality, the R32 puts out closer to 300ps at the flywheel.

The AWD is a computer controlled unit with sensors that monitor wheel slippage. Under normal driving, the GT-R is a rear wheel drive car. Under hard acceleration or hard cornering, if needed, the car becomes AWD with about a 30%/70% front/rear distribution of power.

The speedo only goes up to 180KM/h because in Japan, all cars are speed limited to 180KM/h through the computer. It's possible that this car you are looking at could have had it's ECU tuned and the speed/rev/boost limiter removed. Also, some GT-Rs (i.e. Nismo trim) had 320KM/h speedos.


On the drivers side of the engine bay, you'll find the cars factory boost control solenoid. On one of the hoses, you'll see a yellow stripe. Inside that hose, where the stripe is, is a brass orriface that maintains the boost on the R32 to about .75bar. If you remove that restrictor, you can increase boost pressure to 1.0bar (14.7psi)...but be very carefull doing so. Prolonged runs at max boost with that restrictor out, you'll over heat and grenade your turbo's ceramic exhaust wheel.

I'll give you more info when I have time, but you have a bit to get you started.

To continue with what I was typing earlier...


Upgrading parts.

So, are you talking about exhaust, front pipes, intercooler? Bolt-on stuff?
Yes, you should be able to considering your background and your current training. The GT-R's engine can make stupid power for not a lot of money in bolt ons. Doing internal engine work is going to require some professional work, which here in Japan is damned expensive.

A lot of guys have just increased the boost to just under 1.0bar, upgraded injectors, ECU tune, full turbo-back exhaust and have seen close to 400hp (pretty much my exact set-up minus injectors). A fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump and APEXi Power Filter kits on top of what I mentioned earlier will get you in really good hp numbers.

And, yes, a stock to mildly modified GT-R can be daily driven. There is a guy in the city just next to where I live with a 550hp R34 and he drives his car to work EVERY SINGLE DAY! The thing sounds beastly, too!! LOL.

There is also another guy down in Yokohama area that has a MINE'S built engine for 500hp and he drives it pretty frequently on the street, but also on circuits. It's held up strong for at least the last two years (it's how long I have known him) with almost NO breakdowns or problems, sans the oil return lines breaking due to a mistake MINE'S made when building the engine.


The GT-R and the RB26DETT are pretty stout reliable cars when stock, but as with anything else, once you start throwing more power to the ground with it, things are bound to break after a while. If you buy parts for it, don't cheap out if you intend on beating on it regularly. Spend the money to get good quality parts.

If you have any other questions, I or some of the other GT-R guys here will help out best we can!

Welcome to NICO!!!

Thanks a lot! Would removing the limiters hurt the car? And hopfully next week I'll be the proud owner of a skyline, assuming the guy thats going to buy my accord comes through.

No, problem

Removing the speed/rev/boost cut limiters by getting an ECU tune is something most guys do right off the bat over here. Just as long as you don't over-rev your engine. If I remember right, the red line on the 26 starts at 8K, and I RARELY ever go over that, let alone get near it.

The RB26 is a stout motor and can make a lot of power. If you're just going to be driving it on the street, I highly doubt you'll ever get anywhere near the north end of 7500rpm.


As for removing the boost restrictor, I'd just say to use caution and don't be mad if you blow a turbo for holding the boost at 1.0bar for too long. GT-R parts, even stock ones, are stupid expensive compared to other cars people modify.

Another thing you could do is drill that orifice out just enough to get your boost up in the .95 range. But make sure you do it a little at a time and test it after each time.