Seafoam question??

[M35SFIREMEDIC]

Hey guys, I'm thinking about using Seafoam in my '08 M35s. I have some engine carbon build up and I thought I try before going to the dealership. How long should I wait after using Seafoam to change my oil. The guy on youtube said about 50 miles before next oil change. Is this accurate? Seafoam users please reply. Thanks FM

[Ilya]

Hey guys, I'm thinking about using Seafoam in my '08 M35s. I have some engine carbon build up and I thought I try before going to the dealership. How long should I wait after using Seafoam to change my oil. The guy on youtube said about 50 miles before next oil change. Is this accurate? Seafoam users please reply. Thanks FM

You don't have to wait anything for an oil change, unless you are putting it IN your oil.

If you are doing it through the intake manifold via a vacuum line, you just let it get sucked up and turn the car off and let it sit for 30-45 min.

I put a small 'maintenance amount' (a shot glass perhaps) of SeaFoam in at each oil change, but it's not enough to bother with watching after the change. I do my changes every 5k.

The only time I had to change the oil (after 100 miles) is when I put in half a can. I dropped the pan at the same time to clean EVERYTHING out. This was when I had my Maxima still.

So, bottom line:

Putting into your gas - no worries
Putting into your car via intake manifold - let it get sucked up and then turn the car off for 30-45 min and then rev it a bit
Putting into your oil - Drive 50-100 miles and then change oil...this only has to be done if you put a significant amount of it in your oil

Here is the HowTo that I made: howto-sea-foam-your-infiniti-m-t517551.html

Here is a video of me after waiting 30 minutes last time I did a seafoam treatment:

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McLwRh_c3us[/youtube]

[merlinq2]

I use it on the cars, my two motorcycles and anything else with a combustion engine (snow blower, lawn mower etc). I pour a full can into the gas tank of the M about every 5 or 6th full tank of gas. I use half a can in the motor about 500 KM's before an oil change.

I do it for peace of mind and based on the fact that my Dad used the product in every car he had. It is supposed to lubricate the upper cylinder heads, help clean caron deposits and lubricate seals and help clean out fuel injectors. But in today's world of super clean and detergent rich gasolines, I am not sure if it much left to clean.

I like to use it when I store my bikes for the winter as a fuel stabilize and an anti corrosive. As Ilya said, pour it in and let it do the work. I would recommend pouring it into your tank after a fill versus pulling off hoses and sucking the product into the engine that way.

I have been temped to try the TransTune product from their company, but I am afraid to go that far.

Smells funny too......

[Ilya]

I use it on the cars, my two motorcycles and anything else with a combustion engine (snow blower, lawn mower etc). I pour a full can into the gas tank of the M about every 5 or 6th full tank of gas. I use half a can in the motor about 500 KM's before an oil change.

I do it for peace of mind and based on the fact that my Dad used the product in every car he had. It is supposed to lubricate the upper cylinder heads, help clean caron deposits and lubricate seals and help clean out fuel injectors. But in today's world of super clean and detergent rich gasolines, I am not sure if it much left to clean.

I like to use it when I store my bikes for the winter as a fuel stabilize and an anti corrosive. As Ilya said, pour it in and let it do the work. I would recommend pouring it into your tank after a fill versus pulling off hoses and sucking the product into the engine that way.

I have been temped to try the TransTune product from their company, but I am afraid to go that far.

Smells funny too......

Personally this is what I do:

- 1 full can in the fuel tank just before a fill-up (literally while at the pump). I usually do this like every 7-8k.
- Half a can via the vacuum line into the intake manifold - let sit for 30 minutes and then do what I did in the video above. I do this about every 6 months.
- Shot glass amount or slightly less with each oil change (every 5k)

My car runs like it's brand new and has 105kmi on it. And I tend to drive her a bit harder than most people.

EDIT: You got me thinking about TransTune too.

[merlinq2]

check it out and let me know your thoughts on that - I have my trans fluid flushed once every 2 years so I an not sure if it will have +/- effect on the car.

Let me know- yes my car runs well too. I chalk that up to regular maintenance and running it hard every now and then to force crud out the engine.

[M35SFIREMEDIC]

Thanks guys the information is very helpful. I will try it this weekend. Thanks.

[Larz]

For all those with questions about Seafoam, we're lucky to have some peeps in here who have experience to guide us. I also found this video on YouTube from Seafoam - it's got some good info in it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DjXViwb97qc

**** That video is from Seafoam and it clearly states we do NOT need to do an oil change after adding Seafoam to the crank case - simply change the oil when it gets dirty. Really? I suppose they know what they are talking about but the fact that this stuff can 'thin' the oil, and the fact that it dissolves crud into a near sludge that circulates with the oil, I will follow the members in here and NOT wait to change the oil and filter. I'm thinking it may be best to add Seafoam the day before I change the oil and filter so it has one day's worth of regular driving to help loosen everything, then drain it out the next day and start fresh with new oil and a clean filter. ****

[myother45isalesbaer]

Forget about it. I have been tearing down engines for 40+ years. No additives do anything. We used to try STP, didn't work. Fuel injector cleaners, didn't work. Don't waste your money. If you have carbon built up the only way to get rid of it is to tear the motor down. We even tried a 50/50 mixed of oil and kerosene in the crank case, didn't work. Seafoam is just another joke to get your money. Try cranking the engine to max RPM while standing and add a little water. That's what they did to the old WWII fighter plane engines. But that didn't work so well either. That's why mechanics tear engines down and have them cleaned when the heads are off and the internals of the block are visible.

[merlinq2]

Forget about it. I have been tearing down engines for 40+ years. No additives do anything. We used to try STP, didn't work. Fuel injector cleaners, didn't work. Don't waste your money. If you have carbon built up the only way to get rid of it is to tear the motor down. We even tried a 50/50 mixed of oil and kerosene in the crank case, didn't work. Seafoam is just another joke to get your money. Try cranking the engine to max RPM while standing and add a little water. That's what they did to the old WWII fighter plane engines. But that didn't work so well either. That's why mechanics tear engines down and have them cleaned when the heads are off and the internals of the block are visible.

Interesting, can you explain what happens when you do the following, try cranking the engine to max RPM while standing and add a little water, other than cause many other issues, not sure why someone would do that. Just asking

[Ilya]

I kindly disagree with your assessment Baer. But hey, to each his own. I won't go into detail but it is what it is.

It won't make your engine spotless inside, but it certainly will help. And keeping Seafoam in there as a maintenance dose is actually, IMO, a very good thing to do.

[Larz]

I just seafomed my car today for the first time. TY Ilya for the great DIY, btw. I was sat there trying to get the hose off of the brake booster and remembered reading your DIY so I went back and read it and used the same hose you did and it worked great!. I was guardedly optimisitc that I might see a change in performace since to my knowledge its never been treated in over 70k miles.
I did the gass tank a few days back with a full can at fill-up. I did another fill-up since then and my fuel gauge which was slightly 'off' for months now was suddenly spot-on. It now reads just over full at a fill-up and has been reading 3/4+ when topped off for months - same fuel station, same fuel, same 93 octane. I can only assume the seafoam cleaned the fuel sending units which was on my To-Do list.
I did the intake today and the increase in pick-up when mashing the pedal is VERY noticeable. I thought it was just me being tricked because I was expecting a diff. My g/f used it to go to the grocery late this afternoon and when she came back she actually mentioned that my car seemed to have even more pick-up than usual and that starts from a dead stop seem to be faster - she had NO clue I had done anything to the car.
I have an oil & filter change scheduled for Wed AM so I will add 1/3 can to the crankcase Tues to give it a few miles before it gets drained.
So far, though I still belive most additives at the car shop are bogus, I'm very impressed with Seafoam and I'm not the only one who noticed a difference.

[myother45isalesbaer]

Merling2,

Back when WWII piston engines planes were flying they had a water injection system similar to what is known as a "cool can" today. They weren't so dumb back then. Water cools the intake, which by simple physics allows the molecules of air entering the combustion chamber to be more dense and carry more oxygen to the engine. Did you ever notice your car runs a tad better on cool rainy days?

Its the same principle as running your motor at high rpm's and adding some water to the intake. It allows the motor to create a few more HP (better combustion) and blow out some of the carbon. Its a tricky process as you can't let the engine stall from too much water. Personally if you do not know exactly what you are doing I would not try it.

In my opinion, additives of any kind really don't do much if anything. There have been glowing claims for decades about the benefits of additives. If anyone thinks additives improves engine performance than by all means go use them. I have tried most of them and none seemed to add much value. Its a marketing hype in my OP. As a side note I recently tore down a 1993 SHO Yamaha motor with 134K on it. It never had additives used on it. Carbon build up was nearly nothing. Compression ratio was still on specs. The only reason I took the heads off it was to change the dang spark plugs.

To repeat myself, I don't believe additives do much for improving engines performance. If anyone does, use them and motor on. Just my OP on additives.

[merlinq2]

Thanks for the clarification and I know that when it is cool out my car runs better- I notice it more on motorcycle- thanks. I think that any motor is benefiting from better gasoline formulation and detergents engineered into the formula. I do not believe that these additives would improve any performance if they did they would be recommended by the manufacture, who would sink millions into RD- So for me the seafoam is more a tradition then a rigor in my maintenance program. Cool I learned something new

[myother45isalesbaer]

Merling2,

Great! I tend to agree, use the additives if you like them and they make you feel better. They can't hurt the engine if you follow the instructions. What I sometimes laugh about there is not much really new on today's internal engines that wasn't around decades ago. Except for one thing, computers. They keep today's engines so finely tuned to elevation, hot and cold temps, etc. its simply outstanding what an on-board CPU can do!!

[merlinq2]

Agreed,

I have Power commander on my Honda VFR (v 4), this is a by pass for the fuel management computer and it allows me to change the way fuel is introduced into the engine- it allows me to correct the designed lean condition that the Honda Engineers had to allow for due to EPA etc. I can tune the fuel air curve by increasing the flow of fuel. It make the bike smoother and easier to ride.

With cars the computers are locked down pretty tight and any type of improvement that one can try to gain my re mapping the ecu will require lot's of time, lots of money and lots of engine damage.

I just like driving my as is, I think Nissan could have done a little better job on the torque side, but that is why they built the 45.

Thanks and have a great day

[myother45isalesbaer]

Merling2

Very interesting. Over the years I have owned Yamahas, Hondas, Norton's, and a few Harley's. I was wondering what you think about the CanAm? My last bike was a full dress Harley, but I finally realized my reflects are slowing and sold it. I am in the market for a trike or sidecar models. Any suggestions?

I agree about Nissan and the torque. You have to really wind them up to get some decent torque out of them. I am used to engines that make more torque at lower RPMs. I still love my M and intend to keep it. But, having said that I am looking for a high torque bike. I would appreciate your input.

I know we are off the posting subject, but I think what we are talking about is still relevant to the original post.

[Larz]

Merling and Baer make great points.
Today's engines, controlled by their matched computers, gear boxes, suspensions, etc ensure the car already performs at it's best. Manufacturers spend mad amounts of money and time to ensure that they do. If I were the warranty director, I'd also NOT recommend any additives because a staggering large amount of your buyers will not follow directions and muck it up, possibly costing you a fortune on repairs caused by the buyer's mistakes.
That said, I am 100% convinced that my M's performance and pick-up were both noticeably improved by the Seafoam. The part we don't always realise is that the actual performance itself was NOT 'improved' or changed in any way by the additive. My engine was trying to perform at this level the whole time - I just cleaned up a little of the 70k miles of gunk, tar and dirt that was working against the engine and now it's able to reach closer to the performance that was already built into it.

[merlinq2]

Merling2

Very interesting. Over the years I have owned Yamahas, Hondas, Norton's, and a few Harley's. I was wondering what you think about the CanAm? My last bike was a full dress Harley, but I finally realized my reflects are slowing and sold it. I am in the market for a trike or sidecar models. Any suggestions?

I agree about Nissan and the torque. You have to really wind them up to get some decent torque out of them. I am used to engines that make more torque at lower RPMs. I still love my M and intend to keep it. But, having said that I am looking for a high torque bike. I would appreciate your input.

I know we are off the posting subject, but I think what we are talking about is still relevant to the original post.

Can Am, is a good product I know a few people who have the new spider and they love them. I tried one, and it was too way out there for me so they do not fit my needs.

The Can Am is great motor based on the rotax engine design, high output and great durability - The torque is muted on the spider because if the three wheel layout, where on a two wheel bike the torque will present itself in wheel lift and engine braking, the spider did not give you that same kick in the leather pants.

I would test drive the Can AM I think for your you need it will be a better fit then a modified harley with two wheels out back.

Let me know if you test drive a Can AM

[merlinq2]

Merling and Baer make great points.
Today's engines, controlled by their matched computers, gear boxes, suspensions, etc ensure the car already performs at it's best. Manufacturers spend mad amounts of money and time to ensure that they do. If I were the warranty director, I'd also NOT recommend any additives because a staggering large amount of your buyers will not follow directions and muck it up, possibly costing you a fortune on repairs caused by the buyer's mistakes.
That said, I am 100% convinced that my M's performance and pick-up were both noticeably improved by the Seafoam. The part we don't always realise is that the actual performance itself was NOT 'improved' or changed in any way by the additive. My engine was trying to perform at this level the whole time - I just cleaned up a little of the 70k miles of gunk, tar and dirt that was working against the engine and now it's able to reach closer to the performance that was already built into it.

That is very interesting perspective-

"My engine was trying to perform at this level the whole time - I just cleaned up a little of the 70k miles of gunk, tar and dirt that was working against the engine and now it's able to reach closer to the performance that was already built into it".

I am glad that you feel it is worth the money (I feel the same); however, today's gasolines are cleaner then they have ever been and I think running the right gasoline and proper maintenance will improve and maintain the performance of the system that we call the "M".

I always say "the right tool for the job" the M is my daily driver, for speed and adrenaline I have the VFR, if I want to tear my eye lids off I would rent a GTR for a track day - at least I could live with the car for one day rather than live with it's short comings on a daily basis.

Good discussion

[myother45isalesbaer]

Merling2 and Larz,

I think you guys are right on. I would bet we will get beat up somewhat on our OP's. So be it. As I stated before, additives are OK. Use them if you think they work. I have never put an additive in my M and see no real solid reason to do so. Merling2, I have driven the Can AM. It has the HP and torque I like. But what bothers me a little is driving it. It felt more like an ATF than a motorcycle. The steering was very quick, almost too quick. They are not cheap. The Rotax engine has a long history, but it has bounced between snowmobiles and ski jets. Ownership has passed many times. Not saying I don't like them, but they are asking Harley prices. Not so sure they are worth the money. Its not the engine that worries me, its the overall build quality. I don't want to be doing 80+ MPH and have the bike mishandle.

[merlinq2]

Agreed, cost too much and

"BRP has recalled 9,932 of the 2008 and 2009 Can-Am Spyder for steering adjustments"

After all is a snowmobile with wheels..........

[myother45isalesbaer]

Merling2

Thanks for the info. The steering always bothered me. A snowmobile with wheels I don't want.

Thank you. You confirmed what I thought. I appreciate that.