Hi.I used a bottle( not 1/2 bottle) of seafoam by vacuum line as a vidio where it was posted on NICO a month ago. It is still hard to start I think the reason is that the engine oil was changed immediately after I use the seafoam.

So I plan to do one more seafoam. This time I will buy two bottle of seafoam to use through a vacuum line( a half bottle), add engine oil(a half bottle), and put gas tank( a bottle). Is it ok? and Do I have to drive about 500 miles before chage new engine oil?

And I read the article on the Internet. Can I do that for my car?"Remove intake bellows from throttle body and push up out of the way. Have someone (or something) press the gas pedal all the way down, or manually move the throttle cable assembly under the hood, until the throttle blades are fully open. Spray Sea Foam Deep Creep into throttle body, fully soaking the blades, the bottom, top, and up and down into the intake manifold behind the throttle body. Use a good amount. "

When I change engine oil on this time, I would like to add Lucas stuffs which is good for engines and transmissions I heard from the auto store guy. However I couldn't find the review to use lucas on NICO. Would you tell me about Lucas stuff, if you guys have an experience? Thanks.
Modified by Ryan Heo at 11:16 PM 7/6/2007

I've never heard a complaint about Lucas products.Lucas and Nissan seem to be pretty supportive of each other, which is also reassuring.

Lucas has two oil additives that I know of. One is a synthetic, the other is a conventional additive. Both are designed to be added to oil to help stabilize it and extend the life of the oil.

I've used the conventional one in between oil changes and it does help the car run a little smoother. Nothing amazing, but then again, I have one of the highest mileage VQ30DEs running on this forum.

I was under the impression that the seafoam was designed to clean out your throttle body and intake manifold. I don't see why you would need so much of it. If you're trying to clean out the actual engine, an engine flush from a mechanic might be a better way to go.

Anyone want to jump in and fill in my gaps?

I bought two bottles of lucas for a engine and transmission today. How much amount of lucas is put in each one of them to my car? A whole or half bottle ? I knew the engine oil is needed to replace 4 and 1/4 qt. with filter.Besides the transmission fluid is 4~5qt when the fluid is drained from a transmission pan.

And can I flush my engine by myself as a machenic does?I mean that can I have a manual written on how to fluch an engine?If I get it, I would like to do because I want to take care of my car as possible as I can.

Thanks.

The bottle has recommendations for how much lucas to put in. It depends on the amount of miles on the car and what kind of compression you still have.

As far as the tranny flush. You can drain and refill the tranny, but the mechanic flushes normally utilized expensive equipment. I'd just drain the tranny if it's been done periodically. If not, then leave it alone as the metal inside the tranny fluid might be needed for friction.

Hi.-Engine Flush-I searched on "engine flush" on the Internet. A lot of articles related to the topic showed me it does not recommand, even doing at the professional repair shop.

-Lucas stuff-I read the recommendation already. They showed me a half to a bottle.However the guy working at Autozone told me just use whole bottle of the stuff when you change olis. That's why I'm confusing now.

-Valvoline ATF vs. Amsoil synthenicIn addition to some of my friend let me know about the Amsoil. The oil, especially synthenic ATF, is really good. I bought Valvoline Highmiles ATF oils.Is it good for I30?

Thanks.

There is alot of controversy about engine flushes. I think they are a good thing if done properly.

As far as lucas goes, the oil stabilizer is a high-viscousity additive, meaning it will make your oil thicker. If your car has lower mileage or the engine is miraculously in very good condition, using too high a viscousity oil can actually put a little drag on the engine. If your engine knocks or has very high mileage (over 150k miles), I would use the full bottle. Otherwise, just use what's recommended.

I normally put in the 4 quarts and finish it off with the lucas (only 1/4 quart). It DOES help, but I didn't see a great benefit.

I would definately look into an engine flush if you're going to change to synthetic. Amsoil, redline, and royal purple are very highly regarded and amsoil has extended change intervals. Meaning you can go up to 30k without changing your oil. If you do, spring for a high end filter too!

My last bit of advice... Some autozone employees are like mini-auto-gods, others are just low paid employees. Take a grain of salt with any advice you get from them or even any of us on Nico.

Personally, I am not a fan of engine flushes. Adding a solvent to the oil, I will not do.

As far as a cleaning of the intake with seafoam, cool. Hook it up to the vacuum that connects to the PCV valve.

I am not really into adding something to make my oil better, I simply buy/use full synthetic. As far as Lucas oil products, I have heard some bad things about them, and have never used them. Here is a link to a site where a guy does some well thought out home testing of the products.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...s.htm

It is good information to me because I didn't change any oil yet.I won't add the stuff in my baby.

As I wrote on, I bought 10 bottles of Valvoline ATF but I wouldn't decide to just put them in or return and buy Full synthenic Amsoil?Which one is good for I30 which has 125k now?Thanks.

Sentientbydesign wrote:There is alot of controversy about engine flushes. I think they are a good thing if done properly.

As far as lucas goes, the oil stabilizer is a high-viscousity additive, meaning it will make your oil thicker. If your car has lower mileage or the engine is miraculously in very good condition, using too high a viscousity oil can actually put a little drag on the engine. If your engine knocks or has very high mileage (over 150k miles), I would use the full bottle. Otherwise, just use what's recommended.

I normally put in the 4 quarts and finish it off with the lucas (only 1/4 quart). It DOES help, but I didn't see a great benefit.

I would definately look into an engine flush if you're going to change to synthetic. Amsoil, redline, and royal purple are very highly regarded and amsoil has extended change intervals. Meaning you can go up to 30k without changing your oil. If you do, spring for a high end filter too!

My last bit of advice... Some autozone employees are like mini-auto-gods, others are just low paid employees. Take a grain of salt with any advice you get from them or even any of us on Nico.

Actually, the Lucas Oil addiditive makes your oil slicker not thicker. If thickness was simply needed, one would just change their oil weight and problem solved. Lucas additive makes your oil slicker and more adhesive to lubricated engine parts which causes the engine to run with less friction, noise and heat . This in turn prolongs engine life and gives you a smoother running car.

I don't see how "slicker" oil is going to help with compression problems like they claim on the bottle.

Higher viscousity oil is recommended in higher mileage vehicles because it helps "restore" compression to worn rings. Essentially, you're using thick oil to make up for fried piston rings.

Someone did a non-scientific test on the additive and reported high foaming when the lucas was added. They did so with a few different oils and got the same results from all of them.

I won't say that the additive is bad, because it does quiet my engine, but I also wouldn't consider it to be a miraculous oil additive that cures all. If so, Lucas brand oil would be a best seller.