Scratched Crank During Seal Removal - Need to Replace?

[mrmees]

Was doing the teardown to replace the timing belt and water pump and had a little bit of a problem with the crank seal.

Original came out OK but when I was pressing in the new one it went about a quarter inch beyond the face. Fearing major problems, I decided to try and get the little SOB out.

That didn't go very well. After several hours of trying to pick and prod it out I was able to get a hold on the spring and ripped it out (if you're curious, that spring is about 3 feet long when uncoiled). During this process I managed to put a couple of nicks in the crank. Pictures are attached.

Is this likely to cause problems significant enough to merit replacing the crank? I'm at a stand-still currently until I get some advice on how to proceed. I don't mind a little oil leak now and then, but if it's going to be a major issue I'd like to know now before I put everything back together.

Thanks!

[Chuck Tribolet]

I don't see any scratches. What runs on the area where the scratches are? Bearing? Seal? Nothing?

[Slumpert]

I see the damage your talking about.. Replacing the crank is a extreme process. I would suggest just putting a quality seal in (OEM if possible) and deal with any seepage.

In looking at your close up pictures, I wonder if we could install two seals on top of each other to really reduce the chance of a leak getting though.

[Rebelord]

Clean it up with a fine grit sand paper or file. So there are no burs. Install the seal. I havent done the crank seal on these. So I dont know how far back it sits. If you can have it sit back in far enough to miss the larger nick on the edge then you should be fine.

[Chuck Tribolet]

Ah, now I see it, up inside on the larger diameter.

I'd take down any metal that's above the diameter in there. I'd start with a jeweler's file and finish
with crocus cloth. Clean things VERY carefully afterwards, you don't want any abrasives running around the lube system. MMM, I think I'd cut (I have an abrasive chop saw, so no problem) the jeweler's file near the handle, and cut on the pull. You could probably break it.

Advice to anybody else who runs into this problem, NEVER use a dental pick around O-rings or other seals, use a brass tool. On my underwater camera housings, I use a Parker Seal O-ring tool that I acquired 25 years ago. Google:

Parker "O-Pick"

This has some different construction details from mine, but seems to be the current version. No guarantees, though. I might get one of these because I want to put together a second O-ring maintenance kit so I don't have to dig the one that lives on the boat out every weekend.

[mrmees]

I think I'd cut (I have an abrasive chop saw, so no problem) the jeweler's file near the handle, and cut on the pull. You could probably break it.

Thanks for the response guys! I really appreciate it.

I'm a little confused on your statement to cut the jewelers file. Can you give some clarification on "cut on the pull" and "probably break it"?

Also, got advice elsewhere to try a Redi-sleeve kit, something similar to http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... &ppt=C0337.

Would this replace the filing step or be a good addition to it?

Thanks again!

[Chuck Tribolet]

Normally, files cut as you push them away, but that would push chips into bad places.
By removing the handle , you can turn the file around and cut as you pull it towards you,
and the chips will end up in a better place.

Files are very hardened, and you are unlikely to be able to cut one with a hacksaw.
But they are also brittle and you may be able to remove the handle by bending it.
Me, I'd use my abrasive chop saw. I''ve used it to cut a file that was about 1" wide
by 1/4" thick.