My understanding is that the window switches are required to work underwater for a certain period of time. Maybe even the door lock switches as well. I'm not sure I'd want windows to open automatically either. A sealed up car buys some time to gather yourself. A violent impact can leave you dazed and disoriented. Automatically unlocking doors can certainly have some value though.GerryO wrote:All other contributing factors and bad decisions aside, how can cars with electric windows and doors locks be made safer in terms of making underwater escapes more successful?
Didn't even notice the date. Greg is probably trying to pad his post count.Hijacker wrote:I'm confused. Did Greg bump a 2 year old thread?
Was the water pressure enough to keep the window from opening? It plausible in my mind, but ultimately depends on the pressure differential and the surface area of the window.Hijacker wrote:The issue with the windows and doors isn't whether they work when submerged. It's a matter of the pressure being exerted from the water outside the vehicle. Enough force is applied on the window and door to make it impossible to actuate the window motor or open the door until the pressure has equalized on both sides of the door. Mythbusters devoted an episode to submerged escapes, and they found that the only real way to get out was to let the car fill up, open the door, and then swim up. There are devices on the market that are designed to shatter a window if the car becomes submerged, so that's an option as well.
Depends. Water is non-conductive in pure state. As solutes are dissolved in it (especially ionic solutes), it becomes more conductive. I suspect most bodies of water are fairly low in conductivity (excluding seawater). There are a few scenarios I can think of. If the fuse itself is submerged, the voltage potential across the fuse won't be very high so little to no current would travel through the fuse. If the battery is submerged, the voltage potential across the water will not include the fuse. Lastly, if the component in the circuit is submerged, the high resistivity of the water would just act as a parallel resistor. And unless the component is on, the current will be limited to that dictated by the resistivity of the water. As an initial assessment, I don't see any particular reason fuses would blow (the resistivity of fresh water appears to be in the kilo to mega ohm order of magnitude; saltwater can be problematic). I suspect there would be a negligible problem with the potential for voltage drop due to excess current as well as I can't think of a scenario where the water would be in series as part of any circuit.Hijacker wrote:One last thing. even if the switch can operate submerged for X length of time, it does no good if the fuses pop from shorting when the system gets submerged. You'd have to waterproof a closed circuit for it to work.

In a perfect world. Unfortunately, 99.9% of the worlds water isn't de-ionized and is full of minerals and other good conductors. My biggest concern is the battery arcing and shorting out. Most automotive batteries aren't built like marine batteries and can't survive arcing out from submersion. Of course, I'm not gonna toss any of my vehicles in the river behind my house to see how long I can use the electricals before they short out to test it. Mythbusters say I can use my windows for a few minutes after submersion, then so be it.C-Kwik wrote:Depends. Water is non-conductive in pure state. As solutes are dissolved in it (especially ionic solutes), it becomes more conductive. I suspect most bodies of water are fairly low in conductivity (excluding seawater). There are a few scenarios I can think of. If the fuse itself is submerged, the voltage potential across the fuse won't be very high so little to no current would travel through the fuse. If the battery is submerged, the voltage potential across the water will not include the fuse. Lastly, if the component in the circuit is submerged, the high resistivity of the water would just act as a parallel resistor. And unless the component is on, the current will be limited to that dictated by the resistivity of the water. As an initial assessment, I don't see any particular reason fuses would blow (the resistivity of fresh water appears to be in the kilo to mega ohm order of magnitude; saltwater can be problematic). I suspect there would be a negligible problem with the potential for voltage drop due to excess current as well as I can't think of a scenario where the water would be in series as part of any circuit.
Sea water is the biggest concern. It appears to have a resistance of about 0.2 ohms. At 12 volts, that's a current of 60 amps. The other figures I posted were figures for naturally occurring water. Depends on the mix, but the lowest of the range was almost in the kilo-ohm range. This would put you in the milli-amp range as far as current is concerned.Hijacker wrote:In a perfect world. Unfortunately, 99.9% of the worlds water isn't de-ionized and is full of minerals and other good conductors. My biggest concern is the battery arcing and shorting out. Most automotive batteries aren't built like marine batteries and can't survive arcing out from submersion. Of course, I'm not gonna toss any of my vehicles in the river behind my house to see how long I can use the electricals before they short out to test it. Mythbusters say I can use my windows for a few minutes after submersion, then so be it.
*SOMEONE* needs to pop into the Mod forum on occasion...Hijacker wrote:I'm confused. Did Greg bump a 2 year old thread?.