S13 RB25det Ignition wire heating up

[zippakilla]

Ok so this problem has been haunting me for almost 2 years and nothing seems to be fixing it.

problem: Car died after going down bumpy road had it towed home because it failed to start (seemed as though the battery was dead) jump starting did nothing. Ignition switch fuse went out so replaced it it blew and again and again. Now I get it started and the Ignition coil wire along with the constant heat up. When I say heat up they get hot to the touch and I am afraid if I drive it it will fry as when I rev up the engine it seems to get hotter.

Things I have done

Replaced entire front chassis wiring harness fuses and relays.
Put extra ground on exhaust manifold 4 gauge
put ground between ignitor chip and mounting bracket
Cut ignition switch out of the picture to make sure its not grounding into the tumbler
New Starter (not reman.)
alternator has been tested by an auto electric shop (we tried to get it to work over time to make sure regulator is good)

I just took the coil packs off and noticed there were some bare spots so I put some tape on the bare spots. I need to hook them back up but that will wait till tomorrow.

Any other ideas?

[zippakilla]

No one?

Ok so I am going to try and explain this the best I can.

The constant Wht wire on the ignition switch gives current to the IGN coil (black/red) which runs down and back around to the ign relay (next to the ECU) and gives power to the ign coil packs and connects with a two pin black/pink and the wht. The wht is the sig wire if im right so I was taking a test light around checking grounds to the coil packs well it seems that the BLK/PINK has some current going through when #1 coil pack is connected. So I checked the other ones and that is the only one on any of the coil packs so it has to be the connection (plug). I peal all the tape and wrapping off to come down to there was a crack in one wire which I fixed and it still is doing it.

Anyone have an IDEA? sorry its really hard to explain.

[ARKQX33V6]

Just looked at this thread out of curiosity, and guess what you pique my curiosity. It sounds like you have a multi pak of individual coils. Whether a single big coil or a small direct for specific cylinder the coil has to turn on and off. During the on cycle DC current enters the coil and a field cuts a secondary set of wires. During the off cycle the DC stops and falls back, this collapsing field again induces a current and voltage is added to the point that it is around 20,000 - 50,000 volts but low in amps.

The primary side of the coil if it sees a constant on will induce the secondary very little with the result that the coil will become hot and if not corrected the coil will fail because the varnish on the magnet wire will melt off leaving copper exposed and a shorted coil.

The triggering mechanism may be failing, fast switching transistors. Independent coils use less power than a single coil but switching is easier with the single coil.

Test your coil paks, do not insulate them with tape, remove them 1 at a time and do an ohms check on each, make sure they are all at spec. If your doubtful with things electric, then have some one knowledgeable do the testing.

Dwell time for each coil is built in by a turn on---stay on predetermined time---then turn off and this time varies with speed. A simple explanation is a set of contacts riding a cam and the cam rotates as the speed of the engine...pre electronic cars but with electronics the switching is more accurate, can be variable, solid state and works for a long time without failure, but when failure takes place other items may break down.

If you have a service manual for you vehicle look it up. I do not know what car you have and I do not know what wire. I am guessing the primary side and not the HT secondary side of the ignition coil.

[nismo silvia]

I would also make sure your crank angle sensor is not bad

[zippakilla]

No it wasn't that. The problem was tracked down to the fan wires being wired in to the Ign coil wire.