Need Help.

Does anyone has steps by steps instruction how to change brake rotors for 2001 Infiniti I30?

Thanks in advance.

It's pretty simple, actually. You should have a tube of brake pad lube on hand before you start.

Remove your wheel, then remove the two bolts securing the brake caliper and slide it off the disc.

Once the caliper is clear, you just pull the rotors off. They'll probably be hard to pull off. Some rotors have a bolt hole in them that allows you to screw a bolt into them and press them off the hub more easily.

Make sure you don't have the parking brake engaged, as it is actually a small drum brake housed in the rear rotors. If the parking brake is engaged you won't be able to remove the rear rotors. Slide the new ones on (you might have to fiddle with the parking brake shoes in the rear a little)

When the new rotor is on, use a lug nut to tighten it snugly. Then you can reinstall the caliper. But in order to do that, you'll need to remove the brake pads so you can retract the caliper piston. With the pads off, you can use a pair of pliers to rotate the piston clockwise a little using the nubs inside. With the piston retracted, you can reinstall the pads (put a little lube on the guide tracks in which the pads slide to prevent squeaking and chattering), then reinstall the little return spring between the lips of the pads so it presses them apart. Once all that's done, you can slip the caliper back over the disc and reinstall the two bolts. Then put your wheels back on and you're set. If the brakes feel mushy, they may need to be bled. Oh, and don't forget about the brake fluid reservoir...cap it and drive around the block, then check to see if it still has enough fluid and top off as needed.

I30 (4th Gen Maxima) Brake Pads (and Rotor) Replacement

Specification (and Pricing from IoS – infinitipartsUSA.com): -Front Rotor: 26mm new/24mm minimum; Maximum Runout=0.07mm ($82.11 from IoS) -Rear Rotor: 9mm new/8mm minimum; Maximum Runout=0.07mm ($69.89 from IoS) -Front Brake Pads: 11mm new/2mm minimum ($61.33 from IoS) -Rear Brake Pads: 10mm new/1.5mm minimum ($58.66 from IoS)

Tools and Materials Required-Tire wrench, jack and jack stand. Please use jack stand for your own safety.-Breaker bar (1/2” drive)-Ratchet Drive (1/2” or 3/8”)-Metric sockets (14mm for pin bolts, 21mm for lug nuts; 24mm for torque member bolts if rotor needs removal/replacement)-Torque wrench (32 ft-lbs for pin bolt, 72-87 ft-lbs for lug nuts)-C-clamp (for pushing the FRONT piston). DO NOT USE C-CLAMP ON REAR PISTON!!!-Disc Brake Piston Tool/Adapter (for rotating REAR piston, available from Autozone/Napa @ $12)-wire sufficient to support the brake cylinder body-optional steel brush to clean lug nuts and hub bolts-optional disc brake cleaner-DOT 3l Brake Fluid (32 oz), container and vinyl tube for optional Bleeding Brake System-PBC grease or CRC Disc Brake Quiet-wipes/rugs

CAUTION: WITH THE BRAKE CYLINDER REMOVED, DO NOT DEPRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL BECAUSE THE PISTON WILL POP OUT. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE PISTON BOOT OR GET OIL ON ROTOR. REMOVAL OF BRAKE PADS (AND ROTOR, IF APPLICABLE)1. Remove tires from vehicle with power tool (or tire wrench or breaker bar with 21mm socket).2. Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap. Note: The brake fluid reservoir may overflow when the brake pistons are pushed in during installation.3a. FRONT PADS: 1) Remove lower sliding pin bolt (14mm socket). 2) Raise cylinder body (secure with wire, if possible)3b REAR PADS: 1) Remove the parking brake cable mounting bolt and lock spring. 2) Release parking brake control lever, then disconnect cable from the caliper 3) Remove upper pin bolt. Lower the cylinder body.4. Remove the pads, pad retainers, shims, and shim cover from torque member (Option: clean retainer and shims with brake pad cleaner).Note: If rotor needs to be removed – First remove both pin bolts and hang cylinder body. Then remove both Torque Member mounting bolts (breaker bar may be required with 24mm socket) and pull out the torque member. Pull out the rotor (have them turned or replaced)INSPECTION: Inspect brake component for any damage – repair/replace as required. It is recommended to check rotor runout with dial indicator (secure rotor with lug nuts). If runout is > 0.07mm (0.0028”), the rotor needs to be turned.

INSTALLATION1. Apply PBC (Poly Butyl Cuprysil) grease or equivalent (or CRC Disc Brake Quiet) to between shim cover and shim. Install inner shim, inner shim cover to inner pad, and outer shim, outer shim cover to outer pad.Note: If the rotor has been removed, install it then install the torque member.2. Install pad retainers and pads to torque member.3a. FRONT PADS Press in piston until pads can be installed (use C-clamp and old pad to push piston flush with the cylinder body), and then install cylinder body to torque member.CAUTION: A DISC BRAKE PISTON TOOL, IS REQUIRED TO ROTATE THE REAR PISTON INWARDS. DO NOT USE A C-CLAMP OR PUSH THE PISTON INWARDS AS THE PISTON WILL BE DAMAGED. A LONG NOSE PLIERS MAY BE USED, BUT MAY BE DIFFICULT TO TURN THE PISTON.3b. REAR PADS. 1) Use the Disk Brake Piston Tool and turn piston CW until it is flush with the cylinder body. 2) Ensure the concave portions of the piston are oriented side-to-side In relation to the cylinder housing. Align the piston’s concave to the brake pad’s convex, then install the cylinder body to the torque member.CAUTION: In the case of replacing a pad with new one, check brake fluid level in the reservoir tank because brake fluid returns to master cylinder reservoir tank when pressing piston in. The reservoir may overflow. BRAKE FLUID CAN STRIP CAR PAINT.4. Install appropriate upper/lower sliding pin bolt and tighten to the specified torque.5. Verify Pad Wear Sensor: The upper pad retainer is built so the pad returns to its original position. Be careful to install the pad return level securely (inside) to the pad wear sensor.6. REAR BRAKE ONLY: Install parking brake cable mounting bolt and lock spring.OPTION: Bleed Brake System in sequence- rear right, front left, rear left and front right. Ensure brake reservoir level does not go below minimum or air will enter the system (spongy brake)7. Install tires to vehicle (Torque lug nuts to 72-87 ft-lbs. Over-torquing may warp the rotor).8. Perform brake burnishing. CAUTION: Whether brake burnishing is done on the street or highway, always ensure it is SAFE to do so.-Nissan recommends braking from 31 MPH (50KPH) to full stop within 3-5 seconds with a cooling period of 1 minute. Repeat braking 10 times or more.-I personally do braking from 60 MPH to 10 MPH (never a full stop which can cause hot spots) 10 times or more on an ‘empty’ highway (or mall parking lot).

Good luck,Rod
Modified by loystock at 1:53 AM 9/29/2009

Definity buy/rent the tool to turn the piston in. You will becrying using the needle nose pliers

ive always just used a big c-clamp to push the piston back in

You can't do that with the newer ones. They have to be turned in. I use a c-clamp on mine as well, but mine are all older cars.

I see the setting for the lug nuts and the pins
{Torque wrench (32 ft-lbs for pin bolt, 72-87 ft-lbs for lug nuts}
Does anyone know the torque settings for the 17 mm bolts that hold the brake assemby together?