Removing Oil Pan without Dropping Cross Member

[PopPop]

Worked on a friends Q45 last week and he needed oil pan removed and cleaned of old Chain guide parts etc. I spent around 15 minutes just laying on my back looking at the bottom of the car to see if I could do this job without removing crossmember. That's right my back no lift just car ramps and floor jack and jack stands! I had done this job 3 times before but, I remembered saying that the next time I would try to remove pan without R&R the CM. Drained oil, PS, and Trans. lines were all disconnected and capped off to prevent fluid lost! Done the same to Rack and Pinion because every time you move it fluid will spill on you or on tools! Also disconnected R & P powerline and removed outer two Tie Rods from Spindles. R&R 4 large R&P to CrossMember bolts and hardware and two banjo lines from steering box! Also mark PS Gear Box spline relation for proper re-install! I always remove front sway bar before removing R&P makes life a lot easier! Moved trans cooler lines up out the way and any other lines that may interfer with removing oil pan! Remove A/C Compressor and bracket and Idler puller for clearance reasons! Remove your two trans support brackets that has four 17mm bolts! Two goes to engine block and two goes to trans bell housing.This will also allow for the converter shield to be removed to gain access to rear oil pan area! I also remove starter wire 14mm nut and washer so that there's more space to work! I also ran a can of BG Quick Flush to remove varnish from engine internals so and sludge would be in the pan and can be removed when cleaning! Next I removed four 14mm bottom motor mount bolts and placed floor jack and trans. cradle ( Special padded trans housing c-shaped to jack trans without damage) but a block of wood will work under trans housing to raise engine and trans as far as possible! I also use engine hoist with double hooked ends to wrap around engine just to take some of the weight off of the trans housing! May not be necessary but, I don't like replacing trans because of cracked housings! . That's why I made Trans craddle from and old trans! Remove 18 or so Oil Pan bolts and tap on pan with rubber mallet and will come off block! I would replace pick-up tube but, cleaning it is fine but, you will need a new O-ring for your pick-up no matter what! I also remove and clean baffle and re-torque rod caps but, I always do this for bearing wear purposes! I also check side to side ROD/ Crank clearence with feeler gauge for wear! That's pretty much it you will need a pick-up tube o-ring, oil filter and oil, trans/ PS fluid. Clean rags, RTV, Copper Banjo washers for R & P, Cotter Pins, Etc. Now is the time to replace Rack and Pinion Bushings and Sway bar hardware if needed! Now just clean and re-install everything!

[elwesso]

For ease of Reading, i decided to break this up a little..... Good informaiton! How long did it take you to do it?

Worked on a friends Q45 last week and he needed oil pan removed and cleaned of old Chain guide parts etc. I spent around 15 minutes just laying on my back looking at the bottom of the car to see if I could do this job without removing crossmember. That's right my back no lift just car ramps and floor jack and jack stands! I had done this job 3 times before but, I remembered saying that the next time I would try to remove pan without R&R the CM.

I also ran a can of BG Quick Flush to remove varnish from engine internals so and sludge would be in the pan and can be removed when cleaning!

you will need a pick-up tube o-ring, oil filter and oil, trans/ PS fluid. Clean rags, RTV, Copper Banjo washers for R & P, Cotter Pins, Etc. Now is the time to replace Rack and Pinion Bushings and Sway bar hardware if needed! Now just clean and re-install everything!

1. Drained oil. PS, 2. Trans. lines were all disconnected and capped off to prevent fluid loss! Did the same to Rack and Pinion because every time you move it fluid will spill on you or on tools!3. Disconnected R & P power line (high pressure power steering hose) and removed outer two Tie Rods from Spindles. Do this by unbolting them and lightly tapping to remove them from the spindle.4. R&R 4 large R&P to Cross Member bolts and hardware and two banjo lines from steering box!5. Mark PS Gear Box spline relations (on the steering joint, mark on the steering shaft and on the steering rack) for proper re-install! I always remove front sway bar before removing R&P makes life a lot easier!6. Moved Trans cooler lines up out the way and any other lines that may interfere with removing oil pan! 7. Remove A/C Compressor and bracket and Idler puller for clearance reasons! 8. Remove your two Trans support brackets that has four 17mm bolts! Two goes to engine block and two goes to Trans bell housing. This will also allow for the converter shield to be removed gaining access to rear oil pan area! 9. Remove starter wire 14mm nut and washer so that there's more space to work! 10. Removed four 14mm bottom motor mount bolts and placed floor jack and trans. cradle (Special padded Trans housing c-shaped to jack Trans without damage) but a block of wood will work under Trans housing to raise engine and Trans as far as possible! 11. I also use engine hoist with double hooked ends to wrap around engine just to take some of the weight off of the Trans housing! May not be necessary but, I don't like replacing Trans because of cracked housings! . That's why I made Trans cradle from and old Trans! 12. Remove 18 or so Oil Pan bolts and tap on pan with rubber mallet and will come off block! 19. I would replace pick-up tube but, cleaning it is fine but, you will need a new O-ring for your pick-up no matter what! 20. I also remove and clean baffle and re-torque rod caps but, I always do this for bearing wear purposes! I also check side to side ROD/ Crank clearance with feeler gauge for wear!

[RobertsnewQ]

Ty - I've been meaning to ask you about pulling the R&P. Did you have to lift the engine/drop the cradle to get it out of there?

(sorry minor thread jack)

[maxnix]

Tangalora has a good post on this in Infiniti Mechanic, but as far as anyone knows, she never completed it.

Wes, what happened to steps 13.) - 18.)?

[franknitty69]

Great work, now i know this can be done. i also fixed the numbering problem with instructions.

Worked on a friends Q45 last week and he needed oil pan removed and cleaned of old Chain guide parts etc. I spent around 15 minutes just lying on my back looking at the bottom of the car to see if I could do this job without removing crossmember. That's right my back no lift just car ramps and floor jack and jack stands! I had done this job 3 times before but, I remembered saying that the next time I would try to remove pan without R&R the CM.

I also ran a can of BG Quick Flush to remove varnish from engine internals so and sludge would be in the pan and can be removed when cleaning!

1. Drained oil, PS, and Trans.2. lines were all disconnected and capped off to prevent fluid lost! Done the same to Rack and Pinion because every time you move it fluid will spill on you or on tools! 3. Also disconnected R & P powerline and removed outer two Tie Rods from Spindles. 4. R&R 4 large R&P to CrossMember bolts and hardware and two banjo lines from steering box!5. Also mark PS Gear Box spline relation for proper re-install! I always remove front sway bar before removing R&P makes life a lot easier!6. Moved trans cooler lines up out the way and any other lines that may interfere with removing oil pan!7. Remove A/C Compressor and bracket and Idler puller for clearance reasons!8. Remove your two trans support brackets that has four 17mm bolts! Two goes to engine block and two goes to trans bell housing. This will also allow for the converter shield to be removed to gain access to rear oil pan area!9. I also remove starter wire 14mm nut and washer so that there's more space to work! 10. Next I removed four 14mm bottom motor mount bolts and placed floor jack and trans. cradle (Special padded trans housing c-shaped to jack trans without damage) but a block of wood will work under trans housing to raise engine and trans as far as possible!11. I also use engine hoist with double hooked ends to wrap around engine just to take some of the weight off of the trans housing! May not be necessary but, I don't like replacing trans because of cracked housings! That's why I made Trans cradle from and old trans!12. Remove 18 or so Oil Pan bolts and tap on pan with rubber mallet and will come off block!13. I would replace pick-up tube but, cleaning it is fine but, you will need a new O-ring for your pick-up no matter what!14. I also remove and clean baffle and re-torque rod caps but, I always do this for bearing wear purposes! I also check side to side ROD/ Crank clearance with feeler gauge for wear!

That's pretty much it you will need a pick-up tube o-ring, oil filter and oil, trans/ PS fluid. Clean rags, RTV, Copper Banjo washers for R & P, Cotter Pins, Etc. Now is the time to replace Rack and Pinion Bushings and Sway bar hardware if needed! Now just clean and re-install everything!

[elwesso]

it looks like MS word somehow changed it but there are only 14 steps that Tyrone listed..

[PopPop]

The most important thing I wanted to let members know was that it's not necessary to remove cross member! If I knew I would have been more precise in step by step instructions! I had done this job 3 times prior to this one and really had no intentions of doing this job for anyone besides myself! My friend kept on crying the blues about all the local shops quoted him some outrageous prices and some told him that the dealer would be the only one to do this job! He told me this to get me motivated to do the job for him and it worked!

[PopPop]

Ty - I've been meaning to ask you about pulling the R&P. Did you have to lift the engine/drop the cradle to get it out of there?

(sorry minor thread jack)

After you remove all the necessary parts to remove the Rack & Pinion. Rotate R&P until PS Box is horizontal with chassis floor and then slide R&P towards drivers side front wheel until steering box is clear to pull out towards back of the car! No need to lift the engine or cradle!

[Q45tech]

How many honest hours did it take you? Drive in drive out including clean up and tool clean up and putting them away.

[PopPop]

How many honest hours did it take you? Drive in drive out including clean up and tool clean up and putting them away.

This was done at his place outside on the ground so no drive in drive out D! I ramped the car looked under the car! Started fluid drain and plugged fluid lines to lines I didn't want to lose too much fluid! Went inside ate with him! Went back to work! Stopped used the phone 4 or 5 times! Took a couple of bathroom breaks! I never rush a job because I only like doing them once! We didn't have a air compressor so everything was done manually including removing front tires! I started about Mid-day and car was up and running by 6-6:30 pm. Most of the time went to cleaning oil pan and baffle checking crank and rods for wear! Removing and finding the o-ring for pick-up tube and de-greasing bottom of car! I don't like to re-assemble cleaned parts to dirty surrounding areas! If you hit a greasy spot while re-installing part might cause a leak!

[Q45tech]

6 hours about the actual time it takes pulling the subframe we charge 7 hours to cover the test drive after and misc cleanup.

7x75=$525 plus any parts found along the way.

[PopPop]

6 hours about the actual time it takes pulling the subframe we charge 7 hours to cover the test drive after and misc cleanup.

7x75=$525 plus any parts found along the way.

That's a very good price D! If I couldn't do the job my self I would get your shop to do it because that's a good price! I only can imagine if I used a lift with air compressor and air tools how fast I could have gotten the job done without removing sub frame!

[squeefoo]

Good job Pop!

I laid there for awhile this afternoon and looked at it with new eyes, yes it can be done.

I've been meaning to do this for a couple of reasons, one of which is the pan seal has started to seep a little after 100K.

[one ton garage]

Wow that is a very quick oil pan R&R imo... pretty awesome. I'm more interested in how long it took you your first time! Cuz we all know how the first time for any install always takes forever... and then by the 2nd, 3rd time we can usually half that initial install. Of course, i don't think i'd ever want to do a Q45 oil pan job more than once...!

[PopPop]

Good job Pop!

I laid there for awhile this afternoon and looked at it with new eyes, yes it can be done.

I've been meaning to do this for a couple of reasons, one of which is the pan seal has started to seep a little after 100K.

It takes more time to clean up oil pan an bottom of engine block area then any other thing! Plus its a good time to clean off crossmember and R&P area of old oil and dirt!

[PopPop]

Cuz to be honest with you I never really put emphasis on the time thing but, everyone else does! When I do a job I do it with the intentions of doing it right not to complete it in world record time! Those types of things are for the younger guys out there who haven't experienced what us older guy's have! They're in a hurry to finish and conquer one thing to search and destroy their next victim! The next time I will have some of the many oil pans already cleaned so that will save a lot more time!

[one ton garage]

On the subject of oil pans... you don't happen to have a spare one you'd like to sell do you? (Or anyone else reading this...?)

[masoQist]

Thought I might add a few comments, as I recently completed this job myself. I needed to replace the oil pan due to dents and also flange damage from prior work by morons. I also wanted to check the pan for pieces of chain guide. I also thought I would take the opportunity to change the motor mounts.

A few points:

a) Be aware that although this method allows you to remove the oil pan, there is not sufficient clearance to do the motor mounts. You must drop the crossmember to change the mounts.
b) I did not drain the transmission fluid, or disconnect any transmission lines. My car is a ’90. Maybe other years are different?
c) My motor mounts were both collapsed, so I could not remove the rack from the car without first unbolting the motor mounts and raising the engine.
d) If you pull the upper coupling for the steering u-joint, and keep the lower one in place, you don’t have to mark anything, as the upper connection is keyed.
e) Clarification on the AC compressor – I did not actually remove the compressor or the alternator from the car – I unbolted each of them from the bracket, and then removed the bracket from the block. You may want to suspend the alternator and compressor, so they don’t hang by their wires/hoses.
f) I second the recommendation to replace the pickup tube o-ring – mine was flat and petrified.
g) I also recommend replacing the two o-rings on the oil filter adapter at this time.
h) I used just a floor jack and block of wood under the front of the bellhousing to raise the engine – I would not be concerned about a cracked trans housing.
i) This work was done without a lift or any kind of hoist or top side support. After I realized I would need to drop the crossmember anyway to to the motor mounts, I ended up with a jack stand under the bellhousing and a floor jack under the front edges of the oil pan (both with generously sized fresh 2x4 wood pads). I distributed the weight as evenly as possible between the trans. and the oil pan. This setup was very stable and did not damage the oil pan. Replaced the mounts, bolted the crossmember back up, and proceeded to remove the oil pan as outlined in the original post.

My car was badly neglected before I acquired it. I have done a lot of work, including a thorough plenum job (all hoses, wires, injectors) and a complete rebuild/replacement of the front suspension. The biggest improvement was from replacing all four of the worn-out shocks. However, a close second was replacing the motor mounts. The new OEM mounts have absolutely transformed the car. Before there was so much shaking and vibration, I would have thought I had a vacuum leak, or a bad injector or coil pack. However, the car ran beautifully, and passed Consult tests (including power balance) with flying colors. With the new mounts, the shaking and vibration are gone. The car now drives like a high-end luxury car instead of a hooptie. I have never encountered a car whose performance degrades so badly from the deterioration of regular wear items!

[Q451990]

Awesome! Thanks for updating this old thread!

Heath

[maxnix]

Q45 were executive cars in Japan and received a lot of maintenance. Nice update on the motor mounts. Hope you did the 3rd (transmission) motor mount also. And exhaust hangers.