Let's see, hydrocarbon? Wouldn't that include things like wood, coal and petroleum?Q45denver wrote:Most of these substitutes are very flamable and toxic.
That was a good belly laugh! Pretty easy to determine with a visual inspection.qship96 wrote:kind of why I shy away from the transmission exchange machine also, as you never know what leftover fluid is in the lines/machine from previous customer, and 99.9% of shops dont care enough to flush/clean machine/lines between customers
I thought anybody with common sense TELLS the people to purge the system before they start the exchange. That's exactly what I did when I brought them my M1 ATF. I stood there and watched them purge the system, then take the cap off and pour my 15qts into the system. Hell, I was kinda upset knowing that some of my good M1 ATF was in the system Oh FYI since we are speaking about tranny fluid....SuperTech have came out with Dex-VI atf. I know many already knew that, but a lot of people kept away from it because they didn't think it was licensed but it is. When I do my flush within another 30k, I will use this product.qship96 wrote:Kinda makes me nervous to ever get a vac/recharge ever again......who knows what the previous customers system has contaminated the shops machine with, this crap, or something worse?.......kind of why I shy away from the transmission exchange machine also, as you never know what leftover fluid is in the lines/machine from previous customer, and 99.9% of shops dont care enough to flush/clean machine/lines between customers
Supply bladders and reservoirs are empty. Think about it. With wildly incompatible ATF formualtions, they have to be. Even if only 2% of wrong fluid were present, better than the 60% contaminated fluid remaining after a simple dealer approved drain and refill.qship96 wrote:Brian, explain how you visually put your eyeball up the exchange machine hoses to see if there is the wrong type of red atf left over from the last chrysler customers service?
Add to that, unless you are using a quickie lube type operation {which leaves another set of unknowns, including tech incompetance}, chances are you will not even SEE the machine and its condition because either you wont be allowed back in the service area, or you will have to drop off your car for service and leave it for the day
Keep telling yourself the machine and lines are empty and clean from the last customers service.....repeat it often enough in your mind, and you may actually believe it! The mind is a powerful thing.maxnix wrote:Supply bladders and reservoirs are empty. Think about it. With wildly incompatible ATF formualtions, they have to be. Even if only 2% of wrong fluid were present, better than the 60% contaminated fluid remaining after a simple dealer approved drain and refill.
"Never a qucikie, always a longie!" - George Hamilton as Dracula in Love At First Bite
Come to think of it, I have two filets I have to cook tonight.
Or for those who just don't feel like getting up under their car those many times. Don't get me wrong, your method is a PROVEN method, I just don't have time for that and another thing is that I stay in a apt. I hate, truly hate the fact that I have to pay for labor of an oil change now and days. When I was in college, I was 30min away from my parents home, and I could change my own oil when I went to visit them.qship96 wrote:Of course, for those too lazy or incompetant to perform the multiple drain/fills....... the machine exchange is a good alternative {great for soccer moms, your grandparents, teenage daughtor, or the metrosexuals afraid to mess up their manicured hands}
Hydrocarbon based.maxnix wrote:R12 and R134a have very different properties, so I am suspicious that one substance has the properties of two different ones.
What's in it?
Vent air in the 40s and lower head pressure which in turn is better for the life of the compressor and condenser.NightRiderQ45 wrote:This R-134a doesn't cut it much in the hot summers. My first car had R-12 and the ac got close to 30degrees.
There has been thorough testing performed and R12a is fully compatible and can be used on R12 or R134a equipment.Q45tech wrote:The real risk is to warn AC technicans that they cannot use their R12 or R134a equipment. on your vehicle!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!If you cause them to contaminate $1,000 worth of R12 and spend $3,000 to overhaul their equipment they just might torch your vehicle with you in it.
If you use any non standard gases you must have your own gauge set, and vacuum pump to service in future.
Having been BURNED in the past we always test new R12 customers first but many shops don't.
R12a has no propane and is not falmmable or toxic. In crash tests, it did not ignite when others have.Q45denver wrote:Most of these substitutes are very flamable and toxic. Sounds like a mix of propane and R134.
Because I read a great post from TexasOil concerning M1 synthetic atf. He stated that it is HIGHLY oversold. He said that regular Dex-III had up to 50% of the synthetic molecules and additives needed because of the heat. Since we all know that Dex-VI is way better than Dex-III, I'm going to go with that product.qship96 wrote:Why would you downgrade from Mobil1 atf currently in your transmission to SUPERTECH atf??????
Save the supertech for the hyundai and daewoo drivers trying to save a few pennies - supertech is just the B grade runoff from major manufacturers that doesnt meet their own brand standards
Thats why I'm going to switch to Dex-VI. Hey, I got all the way to 173k on tranny using regular Dex-III atf, NOT synthetic M1 atf. I just switch to M1 aft at 173k.Q45tech wrote:Hydrogenated oil is synthetic [man made by definition], the question is were does base oil come from [sulfur residual] and how homogenous is the molecular size AFTER the process.
100% synthetic main benefit is ALL the molecules are the same size in base oil so you can fine tune the bearing film size.
Not sure this is so critical in ATF, where ATF has such a high percentage of complicated additives.
The red dye tells you most of what you need to know.......when the color changes minutely [red begins to wash out/lose intensity] the ATF has begun to oxidize from heat........time for a change whether that is 10,000 miles or 20 or 40k.
I change mine annually now that I use generic ATF [bulk Valvoline]........BG flush and ATF exchange......Lubeguard {red}.........the 3rd tranny now has almost 60k [in 3 years]..........I don't want a 4th.[/
They should be about to come out with Dex-VI product. Of course, I truly feel that M1 synthetic aft will be better than ST Dex-VI, I just figured that it will be a great product since it's licensed plus better than Dex-III. I mean, Dex-III did get me to 173k...qship96 wrote:Good point. I still think M1 is a better product than the ST, and will hold up better/longer. I bet M1 has a dex vi fluid about to hit the market
I used to be a firm believer in M1 oil and M1 atf {I still think they are better than most}, however I switched to Redline both for oil and atf/gearlube at around 100,000 miles after talk of Exxon cheapening the mobil 1 line after the 2 companies merged { m1 has gone from a group 4 base to a blend of group 3 and 4}
Between the 2 fluids, I have been able to enjoy a long engine and original transmission life so far {212,000 miles}, with both still performing extremely well.
This is inaccurate, misleading, and wrong.TheRedTekStore wrote:In 2012 R134a will be banned by the EPA do to Environmental issues.
Also not true.TheRedTekStore wrote:I found out that r134a turns to sulfuric acid and we all know what that does to metal.