What is the usual maximum power you can safely run on the stock internals on the RB26DETT? And how much would it cost to get to that RWHP number?

Also what is the max stock internal HP numbers that has been recorded on the RB26?

I searched...

more than you can afford..how's that?..heh

Turbo magazine has an article about the rb26, it's pushing 720HP on stock bottom end.

goofynick6 wrote:more than you can afford..how's that?..heh

Try me. 720 on stock bottom end? What about the head?

Also price to get there?

Usually somewhere around 500-600rwhp. Though, keep in mind you will need to upgrade the following to acheive that:

-Injectors-Turbos-Fuel pump (unless you start off with a fairly large one)-ECU/Engine Management-Clutch-Headgasket-Oil pump/Water pump

That's the basics. It's really not a good idea to push the limits on stock internals. Parts for rb26's can be expensive, so do you really want to risk blowing the engine and having to repair it? As far as cost, it can be extremely expensive if you do it the right way and build the engine to reliably make that power. Here's a rundown of my rb26 plan to get an idea of what I mean:

- ~650cc injectors - $600-800-Apexi Power FC - $1.2-1.5k-HKS Gt2530 turbos - $3.5-3.9k-HKS Racing Bypass Valve x2 - $330 -SS 3" downpipe->~3-3.5" exhaust-Bigger fuel pump (Bosch, Walbro, etc) - $100-300-Nismo/Tomei Water&Oil pump - $350-450-Tomei Kevlar Timing Belt - $150-Tomei Head studs - $500-Power Enterprise Rod bearings - $350-Power Enterprise Main Bearings - $380-Tomei Valve Guides - $450-Tomei Lifters - $350-Tomei Valve Springs w/ Retainers - $400-Tomei Crank Bearing Cap Studs - $500-Tomei Cam Bearing Cap Studs - $150-Tomei Procam&Pulleys - $850-Tomei Intake/Exhaust/Head Gasket - $320

Now, that's a dream list! Those are things I would like to do to build an extremely reliable rb26 capable of revving to ~9k all day long. However, that doesn't even include drivetrain mods (clutch, diff, etc) and that already adds up to ~$11k!!! I'm only going to use some of the stuff on that list, and spread out over a long period of time because that's a ton of money. If you want to be realistic, I would get the following:

-Metal head gasket-Cams & Adjustable Pulleys-Bigger Fuel Pump-550+cc injectors (depends on power goals)-Haltech or other cheap stand alone-Timing belt (replace it while its easy)-High Flowed turbos, Nismo N1 Turbos (expensive), etc-Intake/Exhaust/FMIC-Boost Controller-Twin Plate Clutch

There's other stuff you need but, you could break 500hp w/ those mods and the right turbos. The turbos are where it gets expensive. I am going with the gt2530's since they are good for around ~600hp, yet they don't have much lag. However, at $3.5k (cheapest I've found them) they are expensive.

Basically, you are going to spend way more then $10k in MODS (not including the engine price) if you want to make that much power reliably. I've seen lots of people pull out crazy numbers like 600-650rwhp w/ metal head gasket, injectors, turbos and running lots of boost, but their engines probably won't be lasting very long. If you like blowing expensive RB's so you can put out nice dyno #'s a few times, that's the way to do it. If you want to make that much power reliably, and have the drivetrain to handle it, figure $15-20k. Yeah, that's right. You need suspension/brake mods, good twin/triple plate clutch (those can cost $2-3k sometimes!), proper fuel system upgrades, and other stuff.

I don't have my project spreadsheets in front of me at the moment but, I am currently putting ~$3k into my car just to reliably support a bolt-on ~350rwhp rb26. Shocks/Struts/Brakes, New floor pans, R200 diff, wheels/tires (not really safe, too skiny), fuel pump, new gas tank, gauges, strut bars, new control arms, new front crossmember, a few other things. That's with me using some of the cheaper stuff (Tokico Illumina's instead of Konis, etc). I still really need a roll cage for chassis stifness, but I will just take it easy on the car until I have one. Unfortunately I just got new tires for my 6" wide wheels. I will try and get away with those until I can get some wide 8 or 9" wheels.

One question, have you ever ridden in even a ~400hp car? Maybe you should, if you haven't. Lots of people say "yeah, I want 700hp" when the fastest car they have riden in has been some 300hp 13sec car. Trust me, with ~400hp (easy and cheap compared to ~600hp on a 26) you would have plenty of fun. I'm looking at ~350rwhp to start with, in a 2.2-2.3k lb 240z (probably 2.3k w/ the 26, it's stripped). I'm going to be scared to death considering that is a potential high 11sec car provided I have grip, and I'm driving a 15sec daily driver! Hell, I still don't really have all the stuff to properly support 350rwhp, and I will have spent about $10k+ once it's in and running. If you seriously want to build a reliable 600rwhp on a 26, you shouldn't be asking about max power on stock internals and you should start thinking about a $20k loan or robbing a bank.

Well Whoop De Do wrote:Try me. 720 on stock bottom end? What about the head?

Also price to get there?

i believe they had 72lb injectors, HKS GT single turbo, dual fuel pump....and i think standalone. i gotta find the article....arrg

If you want serious power go with a damn Supra motor. Why do these stupid RB26 questions ALWAYS pop up!?

BTW - you say you've searched, well cool. Every motor is different, you won't find maximum numbers searching anywhere. You can locate some numbers and average them out, but that's all you're going to get. There's no real answer to your question.

Nameless EJ6 wrote:If you want serious power go with a damn Supra motor.

Why the Supra?

My cousin just dynoed his GTR at 400RWHP, If I remember correctly mods are simply intake/exhaust/FMIC and PFC. Said he was boosting about a bar. Key thing here is that its a stock motor using stock injectors and turbo...

-Bluefire

Bluefire, is that a R32 or R33?

This is from an R33