RB25DET weird idle/stalling issue. Please help!!

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
Tuner_D
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Apr 28, 2013 2:29 pm

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Ok, I have done lots of searching about this issue and tried them but this issue have me lost and confused so maybe someone out there can help me out.

RB25DET in S14. Stock injectors, turbo, etc. Only has FMIC and Freddy type bov. The car was running fine and the maf seemed to have gone bad since it would idle fine and then wont pass 2500. Had a z32 maf and safc laying around. Installed it. Put the 2in 4out settings and got it running and idling good.

Here's the problem:

-Car would idle nice and solid with no fluctuations. Drove good until you would roll to a turn or slow down to a stop. Then the car would feel like the maf was choking or something. It would feel like it wants to stall and if I try to give it gas, the rpm doesn't respond to the throttle and needle wont move. Then the car would stall. Sucks coz this only happens about 20-30 secs of driving and the car would not want to start back up. Just cranks and cranks and won't turn over. I have to push it back home :rant:

After I get it home, of course I need me some rest for a few hours and then I go back out and try to start it and it starts and idles fine again but when driven same issue again.

Ditched the z32 maf setup and safc and installed a good stock rb25det j60 green label maf. Same issue. idles decent, drives decent then chokes to stall. Won't start back up until a few hours.

I have checked for boost leaks by spraying the couplers etc with water and rpm dont change. Made sure all coupers to piping is good and tight. Checked vacuum lines and it goes this way:

Front of intake manifold nipple- fpr line
Two intake manifold nipple on side by throttle body - bov and boost gauge.
Big one in the back of intake mani-brake booster
Little nipple in the back is plugged.
Throttle body nipple is plugged.
Wastegate line is connected to hotpipe nipple.

Bov is not recirculated.

Any ideas guys? Thanks for any help.


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driftersilvia240sx
Posts: 79
Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 6:16 pm
Car: 350z (business car)
240sx (rb25)
civic eg (winter beater)

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honestly tuner d its happening to me as well, curious when your car gets warm and you shut it off...unplug your cts first then start your car see if she fires right up...

Tuner_D
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Apr 28, 2013 2:29 pm

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ill give that a try. I did notice though that when the car is warm and idling normal, i unplugged some things to see if it made any changes.

tps plug to the box itself- no change, plug connector with wire to the tps, made change in rpm
coolant temp sensor-no change
aac/iacv- brown plug has rpm change, purple no change.

any other ideas guys? thanks for the help

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driftersilvia240sx
Posts: 79
Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 6:16 pm
Car: 350z (business car)
240sx (rb25)
civic eg (winter beater)

Post

well your rpm's should have rose when unplugging you cts. that could be your problem its very common...I think i was sold a faulty one from the parts store :/

Tuner_D
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Apr 28, 2013 2:29 pm

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do you know the part# or from what car it is so i can get it from the parts store? thanks

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driftersilvia240sx
Posts: 79
Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 6:16 pm
Car: 350z (business car)
240sx (rb25)
civic eg (winter beater)

Post

22630-ED000
http://www.frsport.com/Nissan-OEM-ECU-T ... 12663.html
you should recirc your bov :dblthumb:
i hope it helps you lemme know!!!


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