RB25DET oil pressure sensor/sender relocation

[OutToWinPAHC]

Step one is complete, I removed the oil warmer (aka factory oil cooler), the mess of cooling hoses, and I am using a 280z / aka Raw oil filter stud to take the oil filter right to the block. Awesome because I have a place to hide all of my wiring without a rats net. Eventually I will use a oil bypass block and do a 25-30 row cooler and plum my accusump, but I want to get running before this. Anyhow this leaves me with my oil pressure sensor.... and then I find this 1/8 BSP plug right on the side of the block which is plugging what I am 99% sure is an oil galley. I would like to confirm this, and I would like to know if anyone else has used it for the sensor. The sensor is the same thread pitch, but cannot reach because of the sensor body, but if I use a sensor extender it will be perfect.

Please confirm,






With the use of something like this

[float_6969]

Turn it over and see if oil comes out? LOL, sorry, I'm no more help than that.

[OutToWinPAHC]

Not the same, could be a return galley

[Bigalow311]

What's the word on this?

[OutToWinPAHC]

Noone knew..... but the R34 service manual knows.... It's the recommended location for testing oil pressure for service. The threads are 1/8 BSPT aka metric taper pipe thread. The issue is that there is no way to make the stock gauge reach there without an extension piece. Issue two is you cant find a metric to metric extension piece. However autometer sells metric to 1/8 NPT adapters and you can tap the threads with a 1/8 BSPT tap, you cannot tap BSPT to NPT but you can do NPT to BSPT

I ended up getting a sandwich plate with an fittings for the cooler which also had two 1/8NPT sensor spots plugged. I ended up tapping one for BSPT and put the sensor there.

[Bigalow311]

So your sandwich remedied the oil press? Do you intended to run the oil temp sensor?

[OutToWinPAHC]

It did, but the sensor is bad lol. So I need to put a new one in (I have it). I am also installing an aftermarket oil temp sensor and pressure sensor. I am going to keep the OEM sensor at the sandwich, the aftermarket pressure sensor is going in the block, and the temp sensor is going inline on the hot hose to the oil cooler.

[Bigalow311]

Post pix when you're done. I'll love to see what you come up with.

[Miguelone]

Just so you know this hole is used for the oil pressure sensor from factory on non Turbo RB's without the oil cooler/heater.

I'm currently swapping my 33 from NA to turbo engine and have used the oil filter threaded piece and this hole from my NA engine on my Turbo block to delete the s*** oil cooler as I have a Tomei cooler I will be using instead.

[Carl H]

if you need an extension piece for the sensor you can find one on any give FC and FD rx7 as they have a similar issue and use an extension from factory.

[OutToWinPAHC]

I ended up turning my own the block and sender are 1/8 BSPT

[Carl H]

right, and just about every japanese car uses bspt for their oil pressure senders...have yet to come across one that doesnt.

also i just remembered that my r32 rb25de had an oil pressure sensor extension on it from the factory...so there is an available stock part that will do the job.

[OutToWinPAHC]

cool yeah to clear the intake I had to make the extension about 4 inches long. But works, and I dont even look at he cluster I use my pillar gauges.

[Carl H]

outch, with an extension that long i'd strongly consider remote mount...lots of vibration will lead to a cracked fitting.

[OutToWinPAHC]

Not worried its a niced machined piece my buddy made for me, made from stainless

[Miguelone]

This is what the stock piece looks like.

[OutToWinPAHC]

think it will clear the 25 greddy intake?

[Miguelone]

The stock one? I don't see why not, it doesn't sit any higher than the oil cooler, probably far less intrusive given it doesn't have stupid heater lines coming off it everywhere.


Here are the NA heater hoses next to the convoluted lines for the oil cooler, far simpler and a lot less to go wrong

[Carl H]

not to mention less heat soak due to the cooling system not having to cool the oil as well.
best to run an air to oil cooler tho...still wanna dump that heat if possible.

[Miguelone]

Got that covered

[Miguelone]

If any of you guys feel like doing this completely factory style here is a list of all the parts/part nos required to delete the oil cooler properly.

Fitting between pressure sender and block 25071-F6000
Front Heater hose 92412-70T00
Rear heater hose 92400-70T00
Threaded section for oil filter 15213-21001
Block fitting for Rear heater hose 14075-75T00

If you ordered parts through Amayama You'd be looking at around $100 for the whole lot, not sure if there's other places you could get things cheaper but it's pretty reasonable cost wise.

[OutToWinPAHC]

Yeah I am oil cooled turbo so I deleted all of the fatory oil warmer parts too. No need, got a 30 row now

[l0nestar]

I did something very similar, but I believe that I used a plug and then two of the ports on my GRex cooler. I will look for some pictures. This was at the same time that I installed a GReddy IM and fabbed my own coolant lines (to heater / heat exchanger) out of copper tubing. It actually turned out really nice.

[rbgate]

Hi sorry to bring this up but I am stuffed I have a question regarding the pictures to the coolant hoses with the picture where they are on the ground all bunched up the one that is the longest with a bit of a kink in it, its also pictured on the car also does anyone have any idea what that is called or where to get that long pipe from I have split mine and have rang nissan but they saif there is a metal pipe that goes there and 2 bits of hose join on one to next to the thermostat housing then the other to the tap on the firewall. Is that long hose factory do you.know cause I need that asap and cant find it anywhere its doing my head in

[rbgate]

The stock one? I don't see why not, it doesn't sit any higher than the oil cooler, probably far less intrusive given it doesn't have stupid heater lines coming off it everywhere.


Here are the NA heater hoses next to the convoluted lines for the oil cooler, far simpler and a lot less to go wrong

The long bottom one on this picture