rb25 turbo spittin oil

[redsledguy]

well, i drove my car one time and broke the blades off the exhaust wheel (rb20) so I bought a rb25 turbo on ebay. well, soon as i cranked it it was spittin a lil white smoke. well now, my i/c pipes are like full of oil. still not really smokin much, but I'm wonderin if it'd be ok to put the seals out of my rb20 turbo in this rb25 turbo?? i figured its the same, but how good of an idea is it? I'm laid off so I dont have alot of extra dough layin around. could I put this rb25 exhaust wheel on the 20 turbo?

and i just wanted to get it off my chest that im never fiberglassing a dash again. I built my own motor mounts and cut the crossmember that came with it to work, and did my own wire harness using carl h's guide, and i swear the dash is the worst part! I built a custom gauge pod up above the middle vent to hold boost, a/f, and oil psi so i went ahead and started the whole thing and its been the worst ordeal of the whole project. preciate your time

[l0nestar]

... oh my.

[opticnerv]

sorry for reviving an old thread but I'm in a similar situation. I have an rb25 I blew out the previous turbo. The exhaust wheel blew out of the exhaust pipe. I replaced it with another stock rb25 turbo that had no shaft play at all and looked great almost looked new. After hard pulls or long drives I notice a little bit of smoke coming out of the exhaust. Could it be a bad oil seal in the turbo ? Could the intercooler pipes not being tight enough cause something like that that ?

Also this may be completley unrelated but I set the timing and the CAS is all the way advanced that's the only way to get 15* on the crank pully. I coated the coil packs with epoxy and gapped my plugs to .24 it pulls like a bat out of hell. If the timing is too advanced could it produce smoke out of the tail pipe ?

[bmxarmy]

I went through a bunch of hx35's and 2 turbonetics now before i found that my bov was not opening properly. (to strong of spring) What i thought was my bov making noise was actually the turbo surging. Now with the new weaker spring and proper vac/boost lines ran, problems solved. I am still running an old beater hx35 and it blows a little smoke after a hard pull and I lift, But I am assuming this is due to some shaft play and old seals/bushings. New turbonetics on the way and hopefully the problem is solved.

[opticnerv]

Nice ! I just realized one of my recirculating valve hoses was missing a hose clamp. I also narrowed down the problem to not having a restrictor on my braided oil feed line. I put one in and there was a significant difference I still get a hint of burnt oil smell but now its not smoking when I stop ! I drove 300 miles to school with no problem so I'm happy.

[Orthank]

If you get a turbo with surge holes or put your own in you don't need a blow off valve.

[LSDrift]

Iiiiiiiy wouldn't go so far as to say that... lol

[Orthank]

Iiiiiiiy wouldn't go so far as to say that... lol

Its actually recommended by the tuning shop here.

[LSDrift]

They may, but you won't catch me putting all of my faith into surge reduction holes when a recirculated BOV is quite proven. I don't believe surge reduction holes/ported shrouds were ever meant to replace BOV's in any fashion.

[Darius]

Wow dude. Stop taking anything to that shop if they think a surge housing has anything to do with a BOV. They are two totally different situations. I have both and my compressor still surges a tiny bit at part-throttle and part-boost.

A surge housing basically fattens up the compressor map to reduce the chances that your engine will be operating the compressor outside the surge limit. It has absolute zero to do with a BOV.

The blow off valve discharges the pressure wave created by the slamming of the throttle body closed. Without it, the pressure wave travels back to the compressor and impacts the impeller blades causing fatigue and eventual failure. This is elementary turbocharging and a "shop" should know this. If they don't, they should stick to oil changes and tire rotations.