Well, today marks the first official day of this project. I planned on using my 5sp hardbody for the RB20 swap, but quickly changed my mind and decided on using my automatic 1993 hardbody for the project.





The motor & transmission are now out of the truck and sitting neatly aside on a pallet as spare parts for my other hardbody. I will try to be brief but hopefully I won't leave anything out about each stage of the project:

TO PULL THE AUTOMATIC MOTOR/TRANSMISSION SETUP:

(note 1: you will have to search for everything when I generally say to unhook stuff)(note 2: if you are replacing with another KA, you can remove the ac compresser and PS pump without disconnecting hoses, i think)

1. unplug the spark plug wires, injector plugs, and EVERY plug on that harness.2. unplug/unhook every ground/wire/plug connecting the motor to anything that will stay on the fenderwells/firewall/etc when you pull it(if you miss anything, you will find it and unhook it when you try to lift the motor/tranny out)3. unplug/unhook all sensor wires on the transmission4. disconnect the two coolant lines running to the bottom of the radiator5. unhook the two power steering lines and replace the bolts with the rings (in case you sell the part or need it later)6. slowly loosen the ac lines from the ac compressor and once releasing, let it completely evacuate before returning to the area, then unhook and replace the bolts.7. remove the top radiator mounts, radiator with shroud, and radiator hoses, then loosely replace the screws and mounts8. unhook the shifter (pointing down) from the auto tranny by removing the cotter pin and bolt, remove, then replace the pin/bolt9. remove the several bolts holding the exhaust manifold on (or saw off the exhaust) and the pipe going into your exhaust manifold from behind the motor if you chose NOT to cut off the exhaust below that point(insert step 16 if you want but it's easier later)10. break loose all 4 of the motor mounts where they bolts to the frame but leave them there11. remove the 2 nuts on the middle of the tranny crossmember12. use a jack and block of wood to support the transmissions weight13. oh yeah, either drain your ATF now or ALL of your ATF will spill out when pulling the engine/tranny14. after supporting carefully, use a wrench on top to hold the bolts and remove the 4 bolts/nuts securing the outsides of the tranny crossmember15. remove the loosened bolts holding the motor mounts to the frame16. after carefully hooking up your hoist (make sure you aren't snagging the exhaust pipe if NOT cut), lift the motor about 5 inches and remove the heater core lines after your motor sways forward17. Look for ALL other snags/plugs/wires still connecting your motor/tranny to the truck and disconnect them18. If all else is unhooked then pry off your exhaust if you didn't cut it off from the exhaust system19. Lower and remove the jack from under the transmission (it will start leaking out the remaining fluid once disconnected from the driveshaft)20. slowly, gently, and carefully lift out the engine/tranny and watch out for missed components that need disconnecting

Unless I missed anything, that is how to pull an automatic KA & tranny in 20 steps (or less if you cut off the exhaust)

Now is the time to scrub your engine bay if appearance and showmanship matters to you, or perform maintenance on ANYTHING that needs it that is still there.

TO CONVERT AN AUTOMATIC TO A 5SPEED

I removed the clutch pedal, brake pedal, clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder, their connecting hardline from the firewall, and all of the 5sp floor shifter parts from a junkyard 5speed.

It's pretty easy when you get to demolish the dash and the air vent behind the dash on a junked truck. Only about 20 bolts, I think, and you could take the time to do it right.

I'll be returning to tell you about installing these parts!!! SEE YOU AFTER THE RAIN STOPS!!

--TJ
Modified by s13_240_rb20 at 6:22 AM 3/24/2009

I've caused myself a headache today. My RB20DET has been pulled out of my s13 240sx, but I am waiting on a new clutch to get delivered & installed. So today I decided to pull the bench seat out of the hardbody, unplug the old KA ECU from under the seat, and remove the old wiring harness.

Apparently, more than half of the wires from the ECU run toward the driver's side back dash. I assumed that it ran directly into the engine bay so I just cut them all. Unfortunately, the hardbody combines all kinds of wires behind the passsenger side dash: lighting, engine, etc?? I just wanted to remove the old KA engine's wiring...



One day soon, I might be searching for an uncut wire harness, but I am still planning to wait and see what I really need. I know my RB20DET wire harness should be able to run the motor with only about 7 wires spliced, so I just have to wait and see what I can figure out when I get there...

Is there ANYWHERE that I can just download the entire hardbody FSM in a single file??

--TJ


Modified by s13_240_rb20 at 7:32 PM 3/19/2009

The new clutch and pressure plate are here, so I went ahead and separated the motor and transmission and pulled the old clutch/pressure plate off.

Here's the "How to" guide for future rookies (like myself) assuming the motor/tranny is out of the truck:

1. Remove all transmission->motor bolts, including starter and dust cover (NOTE: keep track of where each bolt went & some have nuts)2. Gently wiggle the transmission to make sure all bolts are off3. Using 2 or more people, lift slightly and PULL the transmission straight off.(I cheated since I was by myself: I used my engine lift to pull the motor AWAY from the transmission and it slid right off)4. Fighting the fly wheel from spinning, remove the 9 bolts that hold the pressure plate(An impact wrench is great, if not, use a wrench against the ground to hold a lower bolt while loosening the other ones...some people wedge tools into the flywheel to stop its spinning)5. Once all my 9 bolts were out, pry the pressure plate off gently and the clutch will come off also...

INSTALLATION

It is the reverse process, but you need to use the "clutch alignment tool" (that looks just like the transmission shaft) to line up the clutch before bolting down the pressure plate. Here's a pic of my new clutch & pressure plate that are aligned with the alignment tool and ready to be tightened down.

Now you should also replace your throwout bearing on the transmission's shaft. I just yanked on mine fairly gently and it popped right off. However, it came off with it's "sleeve" and retaining pin that holds the sleeve/throwout bearing assembly to the BAR in the pic below. Since I am just replacing the clutch for conveniece (while not in a vehicle), I gave up quickly on separating that assembly and installing the new throwout bearing that came with my clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing kit. So I guess you are on your own with that problem. If anyone wants to post on here how to separate that assembly and install the new throwout bearing onto the "sleeve" please do so!!! It's still not too late for me to replace mine until I install my motor set, but if not, I am just hoping my old bearing is good enough to last a LONGGG time.

Here's that pic I promised of the throwout bearing mounted onto a sleeve (that is pretty much undetectable under that grit) and the sleeve is slid onto the shaft until it reaches the "bar" and the retainer clip should hold the sleeve to the "bar." It really is a simple setup despite how it sounds:



--TJ
Modified by s13_240_rb20 at 7:54 PM 3/19/2009

Well, the transmission is put back together again. Once again, I used the engine lift to tilt the angle of the engine and I was able to gently slide the engine ONTO the transmission shaft all by myself, bolted it together, and eased it back down to the ground.

I am borrowing a reciprocating saw (saws-all) and going to cut down the D21's headers and take down my full 240sx exhaust, including the part that bolts to the RB header (downpipe??), from the car tomorrow hopefully. Then I will decide whether to use the D21 original exhaust piping or try to fit my 240's custom piping all the way to the back. But I may save that decision for wayy later on (after it is running).

For now, I just need to get the KA header out of the way, so I am planning on chopping it off about even with the transmission's shifter. And I need to make sure to salvage the bolt-on exhaust thingy (downpipe??) that matches my RB header for future use in the exhaust piping.

If I can borrow the grinder also, I am going to grind off the bolts from the 5speed's clutch and brake pedals so I can install them without remove the D21's entire dash. I planned to hold the pedals in place and then run bolts through the firewall by hand. The pedals naturally have bolts welded in place that make for clearance issues trying to get the pedals in place behind the air duct.

I don't look forward to the wiring since I chopped them up, but I can't wait until that is my ONLY issue left....from here it is some exhaust chopping, motor mount welding, custom IC piping, possible radiator relocating, and general stuff... Can you tell I can't wait until that D21 exhaust is out of the way so I can start some test fitments and let you all know what has to be fabbed or modified??!!!

--TJ

UPDATE: I bought my own reciprocating saw and cut the d21 exhaust even with the drive shaft and I also cut the brackets holding my s13 exhaust and took it out in one piece.
Modified by s13_240_rb20 at 6:27 AM 3/24/2009

Things did not go exactly like I wanted them to yesterday. With more rain in the forecast for this week, I wanted to get the motor sat into the d21 engine bay today (with bricks and blocks under it) so I can start checking measurements for the mounts after the rain passes.

Unfortunately, it seems the answer to the "will it fit" question is "yes" AND "no". Although the engine is exactly ____ inches long (the "yes" part), when the motor is dropped into the engine bay (with the transmission), it goes in at an angle. Therefore, the installation measurement going into the engine bay needs to be atleast the distance from the bottom of the crankshaft PULLEY all the way to the back of the valve cover (the "no" part), which is less than the distance from the radiator core support to the firewall.

The back of the valve cover scraped right against the firewall while the crankshaft pulley landed on the radiator core support. With some extreme bending (not recommended) of the radiator core support and the alternator OFF, I got the pulleys past the rad. core support only to find that the end of the transmission scraped the ground. So I jacked the truck up about 1 1/2 feet and got the motor tranny set to sink down a little further, but then another problem. With the valve cover scraping the firewall, the pulleys land on the AC radiator.

That's where I got frustrated when I hit that obstacle. And when something has to give, I made it fit.....lmao I cut out everything in the way, and now I need another radiator core support (which I was going to replace anyway from the extreme bending. I am not worried about replacing the AC radiator cuz I am not hooking up AC (probably ever).

Anyways, from my experience here is my recommendations:

A: Install the motor without the transmission, keeping the valve cover level and maybe it will go in without modification. I don't know how hard it will be to stab the transmission under there though. However, read my next thread to find out about the starter's clearance problem. I am guessing that you might be able to lower the engine, stab the tranny below, and then cut out enough of the firewall until the starter can slide into place(????). Have fun trying. If anyone ever tries it, LET US KNOW!!!

or

B:

1. remove the radiator core support, AC radiator, and anything else in the way BEFOREHAND!!! Once the motor is wedged in, it is too much trouble to try to do then!2. Jack the truck up as high as you can safely secure it (blocks or bricks recommended!! A motor set's weight can easily shift a truck off of jack stands....BE SAFE!!

2.1 Read the next thread about starter issues. If you are confident, you can cut out the tranny tunnel or beat it in early and save yourself some trouble. Do at your own risk.

3. Lower it in as far as it will go while jacking up the end of the transmission to keep it off of the ground.4. Once the transmission is high enough to go over the "bracing" under the end of the driveshaft, use your own methods to safely slide the motor back toward the firewall5.

That is where I have stopped, and I didn't even take the time to check alignments or test fitments. I did take the 2 pics below though.

It does look like I won't have any problem getting the driveshaft to "stab" into the tranmission, ASSUMING that the hardbody and s13 driveshafts have the same size "splines"?? Can anyone confirm?? Please? If not, I will just have to wait and find out for myself when I try it.

Anyways, in the pics below, the engine will go back a little more, but I haven't connected the driveshaft yet. I ran out of time and needed sleep since I work the night shift.





I will try to unclutter everything and take better pics another day. I also hope to have the driveshaft "stabbed" and take the pic after the engine is better "situated" in the engine bay (instead of just sitting on blocks).

--TJ

Modified by s13_240_rb20 at 2:39 PM 3/25/2009
Modified by s13_240_rb20 at 2:43 PM 3/25/2009

Well, I have come to one of those expected fitment problems: The starter has to clear the firewall and the oil pan sits on the front "sway bar(??)" as seen in the 2 pics below.

I can tell you that the hardbody 5speed driveshaft matches up to the RB20 transmission. However the 5speed driveshaft is too long and my pulleys end up under the radiator core support area.

I think my obvious choice will be to beat in the tranny tunnel to make room for the starter. If I do this, I will have more clearance up front for the radiator. As of right now, my driveshaft has been adapted to a better length. I am using an automatic driveshaft from my 1993 auto d21 but I put the 5speed yoke from my 1992 5speed d21 driveshaft onto the end up of. This ends up with only 1 inch of yoke hanging out of the RB transmission and 3 inches or so IN the transmission.

Anyways, I will probably beat in the tranny tunnel so the starter can clear the tunnel and let the motor come back to the firewall. I am trying to be very detailed in all the basics and problems of this swap.

--TJ







Modified by s13_240_rb20 at 7:40 PM 4/1/2009
Modified by s13_240_rb20 at 7:43 PM 4/1/2009

Well, here we are about a week later. Here are some fresh pics. I am trying to schedule a time when my welder friend can come weld in the motor mounts. Next up is wiring the engine, and I have to figure out what wires I need to reconnect to make my parking, turn, and brake lights work (since I chopped up my chassis harness by mistake).

--TJ














Modified by s13_240_rb20 at 8:03 PM 4/1/2009

Ok...things are getting better... I went out for about 20minutes friday morning (before I left for Texarkana to stay with friends for the weekend and watch "Fast & Furious") and started trying to fix my wiring for the brake, tail, turn, and corner lamps. Using a test light, I kept finding voltage and grounds where they should be (on the front lights). So I started pulling the bulbs out and found that they were ALL either BLOWN or MISSING on the front end, so I swapped em all out with new ones and they now work.... So apparently I didn't touch a single wire that connected the front end lighting.

But I still have NO LIGHTS or Brake lights on the rear, so I will check that tomorrow (been working all night after partying and staying up 26 hours straight). I am going to sleeeeeeeep now (it's raining off and on anyway)..

Hopefully it's all blown/missing bulbs on the back end too...that would be awesome!!!!

--TJ

I've been tinkering around every now and then...been too busy to even work on my truck project. Here's what little I've gotten done:

Gotten the truck to start up with the key and run (like crap...no IC or piping, no MAFS, no throttle cable.) if I work the throttle body by hand.

Figured out that the hardbody KA throttle cable isn't a simple hookup. I will try an idea for this later...much later...like...when it matters..lol

Got my all my turn/tail/brake lights working again. Just had to reconnect the wires I cut. The plug beside the ECU that goes through the floor goes to the rear electonic stuff, such as all the lighting and probably the fuel pump too....might be why my pump still isn't working.. If anyone else tries this swap, make sure NOT to cut the wires that connect to the plug BESIDE the ECU!!!!!

My welder-guy dropped off the driver's side motor mount that he fabbed up. It welds onto the stock framemount on the driver's side and then turns 90 degrees down and welds onto the frame rail. Hopefully he can come over today and weld it in!!

In the pic below, it is position in the same angle as though you were looking at it while standing at the front bumper looking at a down-ish angle. (The side with all the holes welds to the frame...no real reason for the holes there....The top side has ONE hole position for the motor mount's rubber cusion-bolt to bolt into.)



I might also try to put my FMIC behind the chrome grill as seen below. It looked good on a SR20'd hardbody pictured here on Nico. I haven't decided yet, but I know that I will probably have to do some fab'ing to get it there. But I think it'll be easier than trying to mount it low, like on most cars...I'll figure out all that later. I am going to do the radiator system first



Any opinions??

--TJ

I tried to start it to let the battery charge today and I noticed that I am still plagued by the intermittent problem that plagued my 240 when this RB was installed.....sometimes it is impossible to crank UNLESS I remove the POS+ battery terminal for about 5-10 seconds and I guess that resets the ECU????

This worked for me today as well....after that, it started right up.

I hooked up a toggle to the white/blue wire on the corner of the plug under the passenger seat (the old KA ecu location) and now I have a working fuel pump..lol Will hook up my FP gauge later and see how the stock Hardbody fuel pump keeps up with the RB's demand...

--TJ

remove the negative, not the positive. If you have to keep resetting the ECU there is some code being thrown. The computer is doing something to compensate for a problem that does or does not exist and making it hard to start. Don't blame the computer, it's trying, figure out what problem it thinks is there.

Hey Cool project i thought of that for my d21 project but now im leanin toward either a Kade-t (because i have a s14 ka) or a sr20 i havent made up my mind yet

I am playing around with the gauges today since it is raining outside (again)

I am using the r32 tach from my RB'd s13 sohc cluster (not stock tach) and putting it into a 5speed 199? Nissan ?????? cluster that was laying around in my store room. It appears almost identital in front layout to my 1993 auto Nissan Hardbody cluster. The back side of the 2 clusters IS IDENTICAL (for anyone who needs to know)....

The ground, IGN, and tach signal appear to be in the same layout for the hardbody, s13, and R32 parts, so I just screwed the r32 tach into the Hardbody cluster. I used some black construction paper to help cover up the mismatched sizes between the tach and the cluster bezel....I'll let you know how it works later when I get it back in there and wire it up.

--TJ

I wouldn't use black construction paper. If it is at all visible to sunlight it most often fades purple not too mention is bio degradable.

Nice project.

new pics coming soon!!!!

I think you should sell me your high side ac line.

A little cutting and grinding was required here and there.



The IC return piping is run behind the front bumper and rests on "notched" front bumper brackets.









This pic above is what we cut out so the radiator cap fits in. This will be an import that actually NEEEDS hood pins...lol (not just for show).
Modified by s13_240_rb20 at 11:54 PM 11/17/2009

Here are some newer pics...it seems to be running great. Now I just need to do all the knick-knack stuff:

1) Re-route the exhaust HIGHER over the rear axle (it keeps clanking when I hit a bump.

2) Play with the CAS to adjust the timing better...it feels just a little sluggish...might just need some new spark plugs after sitting up for a year.

3) Dremel-tool the pillar-gauge-housing. It was made for my 240, but I think I can trim the housing so it will fit perfectly on my hardbody pillar. It is mounted, just needs a cleaner fit.

4) Wire up the R32 electric speedometer. I'd love to know when I'm speeding (and by how many times the speed limit...hehe)

5) Take out the automatic column shifter (since it is now a 5sp) and the park/neutral sensor.

6) Finish cleaning up my wiring mess left over from cutting the KA harness out...(big mistake...I should have just tucked it and hid it somewhere)

7) Hide my RB20 ecu and harness wiring

8) Make sure my Datascan software still connects and works (so I can adjust the CAS more easily (see above).

9) Replace the 240sx radiator (turns out it has a tiny leak from the 240sx wreck that inspired this truck engine swap)

10) DROP IT, shave it, & PRIMER IT!!!!!













That is some mightly fine dremel-tooling on the grille, where I gutted it out to make room for the FMIC. Now I need some billet inserts and to center the FMIC by using a 90-turn coupler on the driver's side instead of that curved pipe going into the FMIC.

--TJ

Dude how much for the Orange Gauge cluster?

I just ripped my ac out still need the line?

kibatheloanwolf wrote:I just ripped my ac out still need the line?

YES I do! The low side (I think it is) from the firewall to the compressor

Shoot me an email @ [email protected]

How much you willing to give? lol I need the money

How many clusters do you have lol.

Can we stop jacking my thread please. I'm hurt that no one even made comments on my project. And I really don't know if I have the AC line in any usable condition....when I pulled out my sawz-all, I showed no mercy to anything in my way. AC lines are a pita sometimes so I probably chopped it out. Don't need AC when you have two windows that roll down, but I made sure to put my heater fan back in a few weeks ago when it got cold..lol

lino wrote:How many clusters do you have lol.

I have about 4 from hardbody's and pathfinders (including the ones that are in my trucks, and I think I sold the 240 cluster a few months ago...

--TJ

Dude project looks awesome Gonna keep it the same color? oh and check your email lol

Looks fast. So what is it like to drive? All street legal?

Frankie Pintado wrote:Looks fast. So what is it like to drive? All street legal?

It is legal here in the state of Arkansas: no inspections....lol

Kiba, I don't have access to this email address on file here anymore....it is my old college email. What's up?

--TJ

I was gonna offer you 30 bucks + shipping for your orange cluster if you still had it and..Whats the top speed you have had your truck at?

don't know...I haven't wired up the speed sensor yet. doesn't really matter tho, b/c my speedo doesn't go up past 115mph, and when I had the motor in my 240, 4th gear went almost an inch past 115...then 5 keeps going..lol

I'm guessing that the car has seen 150+ (assuming that 4th gear went up to about 125-130....

So far I've only taken the truck up to a high end 3rd gear (probably about 100 or so)...feels like 100 and that is where 3rd went up to in the car.

As for the orange cluster, it is in my 92 hardbody. I like to keep the others as spares in case I need replacement gauges or want to try out a new look in my new project...

--TJ