rb20 vacuum line help?

[CFLmmaChamp]

i just dropped an rb20 in my s13 i was hoping to find a vacuum line diagram but no luck yet if anyone has a few pics of theres that would be helpfull! thanks all

[Gabes13]

There are 6 vacuum port:

1 in the front of the manifold for the fpr.
another under the throttle body (pre throttle) for the charcoal canister.
2 on the side of the manifold; one for the charcoal canister and the other for the bov
and 2 in the rear of the manifold; one for the brake booster and the smaller one for the factory boost gauge.

[CFLmmaChamp]

thanks man do you have the rb20 i would like a picture if you have one.... if i dont have a charcoal canister do i just block them off? and the one for the bov is that just a return air or does it need it? thanks for the help

[Gabes13]

Sorry man, i dont have "live" pictures of my motor to show you. I wish I took pictures of my build so I could construct a database like driftopia did for the ca18. Anyways, heres a picture of the fsm. I circled the vacuum ports in red:



-The port on the left, (front of motor) is for the fuel pressure regulator.
-The next port is under the throttle body. If youre not using a charcoal canister (like me) just block it off. I just cut a small piece of hose and plugged it with a small screw.
-The next 2 are inches from each other, on the side of the manifold, by the throttle body (you can see the bov connected to one of them). If youre not using a charcoal canister, block one of them off. The other is a vacuum source for the bov. If youre not using a bov, just cap it off as well.
-The last 2 are in the back. The large port is for the black master cylinder, and the very thin one is a miscellaneous vacuum port. I think it was for the oem boost gauge, Im using it for my aftermarket boost gauge. Do what you will with it, but if you dont need it, cap it off as well.

Hope that helps a little.

[CFLmmaChamp]

thanks a bunch i looked everywhere for somthing like that diagram that was all the help i needed thanks much maybe it will save me from getting a ne maf until i wanna upgrade. this was my first nissan i did a motor swap in and its takin time the motor runs great but will not idle maybe this will fix it. if not i guess i gotta buy a new MAF and an SAFC. thanks again man!

[Gabes13]

What kind of idle issues are you having? mafs can be pretty expensive new, and used ones can be a miss. There are plenty of things that can affect idle, but vacuum leaks are definitely the first place to look.

[CFLmmaChamp]

well it starts nice....dispite the starter slips a bit at times that can wait though lol... and it runs great i can drive it boost it ect but once i idle it it dies within 5 seconds. i will fix the vacuums as soon as i get home and try again but i think the only line i need to do is the one to my BOV the rest are good if i remember correctly. i cant think of anything else it could be but im not that great with tunners i have only messed with them for about 5 years and by mess i mean drive lol. supra and a 3000gt vr4. never did much work on them, so still new to acctualy working on them. another question (thanks a bunch you a huge help) if i get the N62 maf how hard is it to wire into the old maf plug???

[compactfean]

Not hard at all. Some people cut and rewire, some people repin the n62 plug. Just make sure that you get a tune for the n62 maf otherwise it won't run. What kind of upgrades do you have to justify a maf upgrade?

[Gabes13]

Wiring isn't difficult if you know how to solder. Repinning the pigtail would be much nicer and cleaner though but not necessary. Here's a common diagram for wiring:

[CFLmmaChamp]

see i dont have much upgrades yet but will bo doing them over a 6 month period the only real upgrade i have as of now is a SPEC stage 5 clutch. greedy radiator and intercooler, and a cool shift knob... lol but i just figured i would get the n62 and tune it other then buying stock and then having to drop more money on it later. thanks again guys