Hey Everyone,
On the dash of my 1992 R32, I have a torque gauge that I think is supposed to let me know when the FWD engages. I've never seen that needle move. Can anyone tell me where the sensor or "input" is that causes that gauge to work? And if you know the part number or FAST picture of that part, that would be even better. Thanks all.

It doesn't engage that often honestly. The GT-R is a RWD car that has the front wheels kick in to help when the rear wheels are losing grip. I'm sure you understand that, but only times off the track I can can get it too engage is when I'm is the snow doing donuts in parking lots. Or on a very hard launch. Other than that it's at 0. You might have no problems at all, unless you actually tried to make it engage and it won't.

Mine engages fairly often. Usually, when leaving a stop light, even with light acceleration, it moves. At speed on the highway, downshifting and punching it, it engages for a second or two then goes back to O. Also, going around corners at decent speeds will engage it also.

Try changing the transfer case and front diff fluid and see if that helps any.

Hello,

I looked at the back of the gauge console and the gauge is an electronic type of input, in other words it isn't mechanical. So I'm assuming that there has to be some sensor somewhere in the drive train that monitors the Torque Split functionality. I can try changing the fluids, but this still seems sensor driven and I have others that tell me their torque split gauge works fairly frequently. Even in situations where I intentionally break traction, I don't see the gauge move. So I'm assuming the input or gauge isn't working.

On a deserted section of road, stomp on it and see if it moves. In all but the most sedate driving my GTS-4 would register front torque.

dose the car have a bias controller for the split to the front/rear wheels?

you probably have a fault in the atessa. Mine was doing the same thing. You can get a code out of the atessa ecu and diag from there. Mine never moved..... i could do break stands no problem.... it defaulted to RWD because the system shuts itself off when there is a fault.

Turn the key to the on postion with the engine off..... go to your trunk and look inside in the top of the truck.... theyre will be a few modules there.... one i believe is a factory amp for the speakers... and there is also the Atessa ECU. this one has a little glass circle on it with a red led. It should be flashing codes out.... just count the blinks

1 Right front wheel speed sensor or circuit
2 Left front wheel speed sensor or circuit
3 Right rear wheel speed sensor or circuit
4 Left front wheel speed sensor or circuit

5 ABS right front wheel actuator solenoid or circuit
6 ABS left front wheel actuator solenoid or circuit
7 ABS rear wheel actuator solenoid or circuit
8 ABS actuator motor, motor relay or circuit
9 ABS actuator relay or circuit

10 ETS control unit power supply or circuit

11 Fore-and-aft G sensor 1 or circuit
12 Fore-and-aft G sensor 1 or circuit
13 Fore-and-aft G sensor 1, fore-and-aft G senstor 2
14 G sensor power supply 1 or circuit
15 G sensor power supply 2 or circuit
16 Lateral G sensor or circuit

17 Air bleed connector or circuit

18 ETS pressure switch or circuit
19 ETS motor, motor relay or circuit

20 ETS solenoid or circuit
21 Throttle sensor or circuit
22 ETS oil level switch or circuit

23 -

24 or ON ETS control unit, ground or circuit



Mine was flashing a 13 so i got a new G-Sensor (under the center console) I havent got the car running again yet but im sure it will fix it.

there is also a bleed sequence for the atessa if you;ve ever disconnected the hydralic hose from the back of the trans

Even if the gage does move, it doesn't mean that power is actually going to the front wheels. The gage only shows a calculated value. On a worn transfer case, you will often see a big number on the gage, but still a lot of wheelspin.

Some ATTESA information. Just in case you were wondering what it looked like inside a transfer case.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVpddjCH6cU

Hi Everyone,

Okay it's been a while since I answered this. First, thank you Sean for the tips. I looked in my trunk at the blinking red light on the ATTESSA ECU and found 3 codes:

1 - RIGHT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR or CIRCUIT
18 - ETS PRESSURE SWITCH or CIRCUIT
22 - ETS OIL LEVEL SWITCH or CIRCUIT

Basically,I just had a motor redo ( built the hell out of it ) and had the tranny out. So I'm sure I need to bleed the system and refill the trunk reservoir. Then I'll update my results. My apologies for reviving a somewhat dead post, but hopefully this will help someone else who is running into this issue.

Does anyone know where I can find the RIGHT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR?

Thanks for the awesome information everyone! You guys rule!

I found this part number on the FAST system, but I'm not 100% sure what I'm looking for when I throw a "1" CODE on the ATTESSA ECU. Can someone confirm that this is the correct ATTESSA sensor for an R32 w/RB26DETT?

47910-05U00 SENSOR ASSY - ANTI SKID, FRONT RH

***UPDATE*** Okay this might be terribly obvious to some of you, but in case it isn't. The left front and right front sensors appear to be exactly the same! So, to test the supected bad RIGHT FRONT sensor, I simpy rigged up some leads to go from the Right side wiring harness to the left side sensor. I used small paper clips to plug into the sensor plug, and 4 insulated small alligator clips, two to clip onto the harness plug leads (a tight sqeeze), and the remaining two to grab onto my paper clip leads, that, and about 3 feet of wire to connect the two alligator clip ends. I unlugged both sensors at the wiring harness and used my leads instead. If the sensor was definitely dead, then I expected my ATTESA ECU to change from a "1" code, to a "2" code - and it did. So I'm certain that the problem is the sensor using this methodology. Make sense?