This upcoming year, I turn 50, call it a mid-life thing or whatever, but I have to finish the engine, brakes, suspension and paint this upcoming year by September. I plan to make an 800hp(flywheel), 600+hp/600+lbft(rw) for QZILLA and I want to hear everyone's opinions. Especially on pistons, rings, conrods, etc..

I've been working on her now for at least 6 years and I want her done! Yes, I've been reading threads about the "600hp limit" on the pistons, etc., but those threads are pretty old. Where is the new info and opinions I seek... Anyone?

I am getting my parts list completed, have the engine parts picked out. Est. $4200.

Wheels are on it. I am thinking of going back to BBS RS or LM wheels, trying to get the stock look back. I want to get 18" or 19" staggered. What is the max front and rear rim width and offsets? Anyone? I want to get 8.5's front and 9.5's rear... Doable?

I'm not able to help you out, but I'll be on the lookout for this build thread!

What injectors and MAFS have you planned to run? Have you thought of lowering the compression ratio a bit, seems like most have gone with 8.5:1. From what I have read in the past the big thing is rod bolts and the tolerances on the rod bearings being too tight, but this comes from only a few people/projects. I remember a short course looking truck with a VH45 was right around 800hp and they said they were melting the pistons, but I don't know how reliable that info was. You would probably have to share what exactly how the car is setup. If your going into the engine it would be really

As far as wheels the offset is the key. If your going to be upgrading the brakes your probably going to run into clearance issues anyways, this is the reason I'm running 15mm spacers. Right now I'm running 245-45 17's and the car came with 255s on 17x8 BBS RXs, so I don't think 8.5" front should be a problem as long as the overall diameter is not too much bigger than the stock. Rears I have no clue, but you may have to run spacers for something that wide, but again depends on the offset. I'll check on mine to see how much clearance there is in the rear.

Thanks, this motor I have upgraded the rod bolts and head studs with ARP after losing a motor last January to a conrod bolt. Knowing what I'm running now, est. 590 @ flywheel with stock 370 injectors and MAF, YES it is possible. I'm @ 80-85% on injectors, but the MAF is maxed. I'll probably go with 750cc injectors and a SCT MAF, good for 725rwhp they claim. I won't be putting anymore than 630hp to the ground. I want to stay around 800hp @ the flywheel. My Level 10 tranny is rated to 850hp. I imagine with that kind of hp, I should be able to get to 700lbft of torque. THAT will be awesome to feel in a Q...

I've got all the engine parts picked out already, including a set of CP pistons, but I think I'll leave the CR around 10.0:1. It's the same either way really. Low compression, higher boost or higher compression, lower boost. The net is roughly the same. I would rather run lower boost as I think it's less violent to the engine, but I'm no master mechanic... Just the way I look at it.

Want to do an air shock suspension, KSport has one, just a mere $3k... So I might just do coilovers instead. I do want to put on a set of 300ZX brakes that I already have, but I'm thinking about a big brake kit. Several folks on here say the big brakes aren't really worth doing, I at least want to get to 4 pistons on the front and 2 on the rear. To install the Z32 brakes, I need 12mm spacers to clear my existing Foose rims, so I don't know what I'll need for the new rims, if any.

I do want to get back to the stock look with some BBS RS or maybe LM wheels, but those bishez aren't cheap... Nothing cheap about these cars though... I guess I'll have to take it to a wheel shop and let them figure it out.

Last, but not least... Paint. I never thought I would do all this to my Q... 6 or 7 years ago a buddy talked me into the turbo, now after everything, I dare not add up the money I've put into this car. Although, I can't drive it around town without someone stopping me or wanting to race me which is awesome, especially when My Baby walks away from them...

It sounds like you know what you want and everything looks good. Your staying with the rear mount with a larger turbo, or are you thinking twin? You could even go with a supercharger + turbo setup. I've seen corvettes with dual rear mounts but I don't think that would work on the Q.

I know more about the suspension and brakes, so I would go with ksport coilovers with a lower rated springs. The ksport website has our cars spec'ed to be 20kg front and 16kg rear which seems way too high for the street. I would go with 12kg front and 8kg rear for a better ride.

As for a big brake setup, I was looking at these:
http://208.113.165.38/shop/370z-nissan- ... h-akebono/

The rotors are 355x32mm I believe, so 14" rotors with four piston calipers. The rotors are easy to get and are cheap unlike some big brake kits because these are oem. Z1 motorsports and some other places make adapters for these for the front on the 300zx. You use the 240sx conversion lines just like the ones for the 300zx calipers. I couldn't do this because they need 18" rims minimum to clear, so right now I'm adapting R32 skyline calipers to fit G37 rotors which are 330x32mm. These just barely fit in my 17's and weight 10lbs more than stock rotors each . The brakes are puny for a car of this weight; I'm not doing this for increased stopping power but more for parts availability and longevity. A rotor that weights 10lbs more ought to dissipate a hell of a lot more heat without warping.

Hopefully you have done your rear subframe bushings, you might even want to go with either solid or at a minimum poly from either whiteline or ES. Same deal with the diff bushings because your going to be twisting the subframe and diff mounts like crazy with that amount of torque.

Subframe/diff bushings, already done. GTR rear w/ 4.11's. I have forgot the size of the Z32 rotors, but aren't they close to 14". I haven't read on those other brakes yet, but you know I will... Thanks for that. I already have 18's and want to probably go to 19's.

I don't think I'll need to upgrade my turbo. It's a Garrett 4094, forgot all the other specs, but it is rated for 850hp. I don't want to buy another one... Get this; I still haven't had My Baby dyno tuned. Those numbers under my avatar or whatever that thing is called, are from the dual tune Shane (QSIGUY) put on my ECU. I wonder how much more I could get out of it...

Sounds like an awesome project! I have nothing helpful to add, but I'm looking forward to seeing the result!

Heath

The Z32 rotors are 280x28mm, so same diameter of the Q's original brakes just 2mm thicker with a 4 piston fixed caliper. The R32 GTR has 296x32mm and those I posted are 355x32mm I think. So the Z32 are ~11" and the akebono G37 sport rotors are 14".

http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_in ... ts_id=4411

Z1 motorsports has a package deal with those calipers I posted with the rotors, pads and adapters for ~$850 which really isn't too bad. I think you might just need the conversion lines to finish it off which are ~$50. This is what I would have done if I had 18's, but I don't feel like spending $1.5k on wheels and tires right now. They should work well and look the sh*t with infiniti written on them.

Your both rear mounts with similar elevations, maybe the only difference is the turbo your running and differences in gas quality? I would imagine you would get quite a bit more considering the JDM engine(lower miles) plus other differences. Are you going to have someone else do the work or you doing it? Do you have someone to tune it?

That's right about the rotors, I forgot. I guess I'll have to check Z1, that really isn't a bad price for 14". I don't trust mechanics anymore, I've been doing all the work on my car for about the last 4 or 5 years now. There isn't anything on that car I haven't replaced or repaired anymore. I did notice the feel of the JDM over my original engine, but I also could've just been excited after replacing the motor in my garage by myself too. I will obviously have the crank balanced by an engine shop here, I have no clue how that's done. Well, I've seen videos, but I don't have those kinds of tools or expertise. I guess I'll have to have them do the bearings and pistons as well, but only if I get to watch. I'll have my service manual in hand, observing torque specs. I'm sure they'll love that...

I know what you mean I would never let anyone else work on except the local race car engine builder or when I need an AC recharge.

I would love to do a centrifugal supercharger like a vortech, but California is a b**** about modifications. I understand all the smog restriction because of the serious haze/smog issue, but if the car passes smog/inspection it shouldn't be a problem what you've done. I think you said you lived here for a short time so you know.

I remember... Here in FL they have no emissions, but on the oddest day, you can get a cop give you s*** about modifying your exhaust.

this motor I have upgraded the rod bolts and head studs with ARP after losing a motor last January to a conrod bolt

There are guys on ls1tech.com running 600hp+ (to the wheels on bone stock motors). So don't look at old info here as the benchmark. A LOT of it is in the tune. Also many of them are running 100% E85 on inferior motors (inferior to our VH at least). To get to 600 at the wheels, the smallish (for a V8) VH45 will definitely need your rod bolts and head studs...you will be upping the boost quite a bit to get there, but with a good tune I think these motors can thrive, not just survive.

This guy for example, is running a turbo'd E85 6.0 chevy V8 (the LQ4) in an old volvo...and runs a 10.7! and close to 600 at the wheels.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induct ... 8-8-a.html

Personally I plan to turbo my Q, just a few more months on the grad student loans paying 2k+ a month right now to pay them off fast, fun times!

I plan to run the following in my beautiful '92, currently less than 90k on the clock

aftermarket E85 compatible fuel pump (that can handle 600+ whp)
750cc E85 compatible injectors
rear mounted Chinese ebay GT45 - fed by custom exhaust and custom quick spool valve (google it - basically a wastegate on the feed side of the turbo that opens when you start to get into boost... gives you even quicker response time and Zero lag.
aftermarket radiator
FMIC - probably still run an intercooler even with E85, here in hot azz central TX. That volvo for example above is non intercooled - advantage of E85 is it cuts down on your temps, and reduces the chances of detonation
Shane Christopher tune, but eventual Megasquirt or Nistune?
beefier engine mounts
the weak link IMO is the transmission - autos are usually the weak link in a build seeking 600 to the wheels. Level 10 transmission or not, I'd personally go built Z32 5 speed...but it will be a tiny bit slower drag racing.

I feel like I'm leaving something out, but these are the major points at least

the wheels I'm running now: in 18x9 - the offset is a bit much, they stick out just a bit, but I like 'em too much to change...plus I "should" be able to go with some serious wide tires on these in the rear. The car came with 245's, but I think 275's will fit in the rear.


keep us updated! that and I need to PM you!

Alright, time to sit and wait... Wiseco pistons with Eagle rods, rings, conrod, main, thrust bearings ordered from Eric @ PerformanceVH. Pistons - 93.5mm; 9.0:1 CR. Block ready for machine shop, waiting for torque plate rental.

So I guess you did decide to lower the CR. Any ideas on potential boost pressures?

Have you thought about a different intake? Cayenne turbo or maybe the one he made? That wait is going to be brutal.

run stock compression with larger gaps on the rings and pistons, use e85 ethanol, get a custom open source tune to dial in the timing and afr's on a dyno. The problem with running hi-power with 91 octane is the heat and detonation that happens. E85 is still technically pump gas, and its affordable. It lowers the combustion temps quite a bit, since it's alcohol. If you accidentally run lean it won't blow your motor up like regular gas. it just wont run and you lose power. Upgrade your cooling system to handle double the power or you will kill the motor with heat. My goal is to break 700-800 wheel tq with a stock block and supercharger. Just gotta figure out a way to install a supercharger plate on this flimsy small bolt ridden timing cover I have made Just under 566 crank tq with nitrous and e85 with 850cc injectors. that motor lasted me nearly 5 years before getting oil-starvation.

I made more than 600 crannk tq with a high miles stock block ka24de with uneven compression on e85 and 30+ psi boost, lasted over 2 years of racing and street driving. Why not a vh45 with nearly double the size?

subtle_driver wrote:My goal is to break 700-800 wheel tq with a stock block and supercharger.

I like the idea BUT. What tranny are you going to use to handle all that power?

My current z32 transmission. I have helped with a 800hp build on a 240sx with a z32 transmission, held up very well.

The TT 5 speed? What clutch and flywheel are you running? or that built 240 for that matter

Totally agree on the E85 - there are a lot of non-intercooled domestic turbo V8's running E85 making crazy power...take this drag Volvo for example
http://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induct ... 8-a-3.html

The TT trans and NA trans are the same internally, so you don't need to monkey with finding a TT trans if you don't want. The trans in my Q is an NA, just get a clutch and flywheel for an NA trans that can handle the power and you're golden.

I'm running a tt flywheel and clutch on my z32 n/a trans. hey elwesso, have you sold any adaptor plates in the last 6-months or so? I've referred a few to you.

Would you agree it's probably better to match the trans, clutch and flywheel so there's no issue with the starter? That's what I usually recommend so people aren't messing around with things..

I haven't sold any plates but I've got a few inquiries. I think we've reached the peak of doing VH45 swaps, mainly because engines are becoming harder to find in good condition cheap like they were 4-6 years ago.

I think also part of the VH45 swaps decline is the abundance and cheapness of chevy V8's (5.3 and 6.0 truck motors are a dime a dozen) - then nearly every LS part fits them, intakes, cams you name it.

Good to know on the Z32 trans - I read also that the 4th gear synchro in the TT 5 spd is beefier...don't think that would matter much though.
Damn I miss a 5 speed! Had 2 - 5 spd 3rd gen maximas, miss them both

Know anyone in TX that could do the swap?

subtle_driver wrote:My current z32 transmission. I have helped with a 800hp build on a 240sx with a z32 transmission, held up very well.

I was thinking auto, my bad...I love manual, but damn! Mo money, mo money, mo money!!!


So the parts have arrived from Eric(300zxjdm) of Performance VH a couple days ago... I do believe I drooled on a few parts.







Block has been bored for the new pistons, 93.5mm, 20 over. Rented Eric's torque plate. Machinist said "worth every penny to have."

Rods had to be thinned to fit, came out nice... Yes, they fit.

Started by gapping the piston rings; I wasn't in a rush, but it took me around 12 hours or so to gap the rings and set them up. I ended up with an average of 19 and 21 on the ring gaps. I have a new respect for engine builders... Would've given my right nut for one of those fancy gap grinder machines!





Then I started on the crank bearings. Checked for clearance with Plasticgauge. Clearance is around .025. Works for me. Then I had to put it all back together again, took about 8 hours to complete. Wasn't in a hurry, just cautious. I had to re-torque twice, just to make sure. All bolts are within 1.5ftlbs of spec.








So now I need to get the pistons on the rods and install. I'm guessing that will take me 12-14 hours at this pace, but I'm not rushing as I said, no need to. This is my first time doing this much to any car.

Heads have been done for a while, I did get a Dremel and wire wheel inside, but not to the point of being "polished"... They just need to be put on. I think after I get the pistons installed, the rest should go together pretty rapidly.


A couple friends think I'm taking a good risk doing this myself, I understand, but I WANT to do this. So say a little prayer for me that I get this right.

Sweet parts and nice pics!

You posted at exactly midnight or was it 1 am your time? That and the new Godzilla movie is coming out soon - these must be good omens!

Prayers for the build, pave the way man

Brew Q wrote:Sweet parts and nice pics!

You posted at exactly midnight or was it 1 am your time? That and the new Godzilla movie is coming out soon - these must be good omens!

Prayers for the build, pave the way man

Your prayers may be helping... For some reason I couldn't bring myself to install the pistons and rods this past weekend, something didn't seem right, it seemed too easy and was bothering me.

When I dropped off the rods to be thinned, so they'd fit on the crank. I took the rods, an old rod and the crank. Remember, I'm not a master mechanic... They never asked for the pistons and said they didn't need the crank. I thought that was a little odd, as compared to what I know, which is squat about building.

Mind you, this shop was referred to me from a respected machine shop. I don't know what they were thinking, other than to maybe "fix" my engine once I realized it was running like crap or after it blew up.

So I waited to call on another shop, this guy builds race boat motors from scratch as well as car motors. He immediately pointed out the error from the other guys. He tried explaining mass rotational weight formulas, etc.. I told him he was pretty much speaking French to me, but I got it...

Anyway, bottom line is that the Eagle rods are almost 100 grams lighter than the stock rods. Now before you bust my nutts over reducing the crank weight; that's what the new guy is doing for me.

I took the crank back out, along with pistons, pins, rods, bearings, balancer and flywheel up to his shop. He then walked me through his equipment, while explaining what he needed to do in order to fix the mess created by the buffoons... He said it will be done by Wednesday. Nice. Lost a few days from the a-holes, but it could've been much worse...

Bottom line is that I dodged a huge bullet, so thanks!

Looks fantastic. I love the bottom end of the VH, compared to a small-block soooo heavy duty!

SOB!!! I busted a lower oil ring putting in one of the pistons and I threw all my old s*** out... Can anyone hook me up on one... PLEASE!

Are M30 & J30 rings the same size as the Q? BUELLER... BUELLER...

The VG30 bore is 87mm, and the VH45 is 93mm, so your SOL... Even the VG33 has a 91mm bore, so you're SOL there...

You know anyone on here that might have a spare laying around? I normally don't throw anything Q related out, but I did scrap the old motor. Only needing one sucks. The whole pack is around $100.

More pics...

The crank after balancing... Nice holes, huh? Took around 100 grams off each end.






Ready to go...







The empty cylinder is awaiting a single oil ring for the piston... C'mon, someone out there has to have a single oil ring?