Holy crud Q-ZILLA! You've been busy! I've really been wanting to purpose build a motor to rejuvenate my Q and you are giving me some good motivation. There isn't much I haven't done to a car but I've yet to build a motor to that extent. How easy has it been to source the correct aftermarket parts? I figured it would be really difficult to find everything to do it right.

Shane

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Hey Shane, long time... Sourcing, not a problem; Eric(300zxjdm) of PerformanceVH, he's got all the toys ready to order! Like you, I've never done this much before either. It's taking me quite a while, but I'm going slow and super cautious. I'm reading over and over the same s***, just to make sure I'm doing it right. Plastigauge, never heard of it, but now I know how to use it.

I have checked every clearance and torqued EVERY nut and bolt within 1lb of spec. I'm probably being a little too anal, but I can't afford to screw this up. About the only thing so far that causes me most angst is the timing. I imagine I'll take all day to get that one where I feel comfortable, if that's even possible.

I'll post more pics soon. Come summer, I'm hoping to get a set of cams and the valve springs for my Baby, but I'm trying to get her done this year. I don't know if I'll be able to siphon off enough money. The wife is starting to rumble quite loudly over this obsession of mine...

I do have a new-found respect for engine builders and I have been waiting on parts, ***holes sending the wrong s*** and whatnot, but I think, god willing, I might have her done by this Sunday.

Good to hear from you again... Keep in touch!

More pics...

Nice!

QZILLA has awakened from a short hibernation… Be on the lookout for a subtle car that is going to eat your lunch! Took me forever it seems to get this engine put back together. She started up on the first crank. I’ve got about 22 miles on her, but still need to break the engine in, did a few short bursts, but that was it.

I have to say, I was pretty nervous to start her up. The valves were ticking, but that went away once the oil started pumping. No other noises or other nasty sounds to speak of. Thank God that’s done! Now to get her dyno-tuned and have some fun letting her eat some American muscle…

Your timing is impeccable... wife and I going see Godzilla this weekend - Opening weekend.

Break that puppy in and start destroying some push rod motors!

I just sent 8 injectors off to Deatsch to get cleaned and flow tested. Full strength and running good soon

Yes, I think I'll go as well. I just saw Cobra-Boy, kid that lives around the corner, drive right in front of me. I've been wanting to race him for a while, but not yet. He's been lurking around my house making noise while seeing me build in the garage.

dude, keep it up. this is awesome

Q-ZILLA wrote: Wheels are on it. I am thinking of going back to BBS RS or LM wheels, trying to get the stock look back. I want to get 18" or 19" staggered.

I have 18x9 BBS RGR NIB. email me if you are interested.

While one can go staggered, Square is still best, especially on the front end of a Q45. Even the BMW guys who track usually end up square to compensate for understeer with staggered setup.

Q-ZILLA wrote:QZILLA has awakened from a short hibernation…

I have to say, I was pretty nervous to start her up. The valves were ticking, but that went away once the oil started pumping.

Always pull the fuel pump fuse on initial first time start up to get the oil in the HLA before firing it up.

maxnix wrote: Always pull the fuel pump fuse on initial first time start up to get the oil in the HLA before firing it up.

Thanks for the input... A day late and a dollar short. I have one or two HLA's that bled out, fixing them today. Wish you'd posted about a week ago...

Well, after spending yesterday bleeding the one HLA out, sounded great, then it s*** itself again. Must have a bad HLA... Oh joy, I get to do it again... Yeah! Other than that, I'm also having a hard time with the TPS. I put a brand new one on, but it keeps knocking me into limp mode after "adjusting" itself. I'll set it at .44, it will go to .36 on it's own, then without warning, it goes into limp mode. Tranny self diagnosis says 3, TPS short circuit or not plugged in. Go figure.

You may already know this but just in case. You want to make sure the engine has warmed up fully before you adjust the TPS because the throttle is physically opened further when cold until the wax inside the throttle stop chamber melts and then the idle will come down. At this time you can then adjust the TPS where you need it. With the IACV connected, the idle will start off much higher also when cold. For a while I had issues with my IACV and just left it disconnected. The idle wasn't as high during an initial cold start but it was still higher then a warm idle until the wax melted. I think my TPS is around .58v when cold and then comes down to .46v when fully warm.

Matt

Regarding the TPS, double check your ECU and TCU harness connectors... The TPS connector is on the very edge of the ECU connector, and if it's not fully seated crazy stuff will happen... I chased an issue on my Q like this that turned out to be the ECU harness not fully seated.

Thanks for the input guys... It was the actual TPS sensor, even though it's brand new , must have a short. I put in an old one, backup, and it worked just fine.

Last night, while sitting at a light, nobody around, I figured I'd do a dig. Wound out first to around 4ooo+ rpms, flipped it in 2nd and heard a pop. Blew an axel. Haven't done that in a few years. I first though maybe something snapped in my L-10, but thank god it's only an axel!

Anyway, pulling the rear out today, hopefully it's not totally fried.

God I love this car! I hit it just right last night, the little c-ring popped out of the diff, not a big deal; just can't hop on it until I get a new c-ring for the half shaft... ANYONE? This one is showing the past two years of hard driving and needs to be replaced, but I'll get by for a little while...

Took her out tonight for a short jaunt and no problems, but I do have all the tools in the trunk, just in case. I now have 276 miles on the new motor. I say thanks with every mile... Don't know if I ever want to build another one, took an estimated 200+ hours to build, but never say never.

This isn't going to work, the clip is too worn. Does anyone have an Axle Shaft Lock C-Clip 38225-17V20 available? Can't find one anywhere...

Anyone have a used one or wanting to sell an output flange?

Well, I almost stuck with the plan... A turbo'd Lexus IS I believe, jockeyed behind me on a turn, then jumped on my right side flooring it. I hesitated a second or two, because I only have 435 miles on the build and wanted to get to 500 before I really throttled it. Anyway he ran out of gear too soon, I flipped it into 4th and walked away, god I love my car! The reason I'm not quite sure what it was is because his lights were all I could see, but it looked like an IS. It was pretty damn fast!

I'm assuming with my car running 9:1, instead of 10.2:1, that my 15lbs of boost is now equal to about 10lbs in relation to the old setup. I need to get tuned bigtime!! The car is running better than it has for a while. The engine pulled like a bear, didn't drop into 3rd on me at high rpm, like it sometimes did before. The difference in power is AWESOME!

Q-ZILLA wrote:Well, I almost stuck with the plan... A turbo'd Lexus IS I believe, jockeyed behind me on a turn, then jumped on my right side flooring it. I hesitated a second or two, because I only have 435 miles on the build and wanted to get to 500 before I really throttled it. Anyway he ran out of gear too soon, I flipped it into 4th and walked away, god I love my car! The reason I'm not quite sure what it was is because his lights were all I could see, but it looked like an IS. It was pretty damn fast!

I'm assuming with my car running 9:1, instead of 10.2:1, that my 15lbs of boost is now equal to about 10lbs in relation to the old setup. I need to get tuned bigtime!! The car is running better than it has for a while. The engine pulled like a bear, didn't drop into 3rd on me at high rpm, like it sometimes did before. The difference in power is AWESOME!

VERY NICE! I know I have a couple spare axle shafts, I can see if the clip is still there...

elwesso wrote:NICE! I know I have a couple spare axle shafts, I can see if the clip is still there...

Wes, I have a rear diff issue, side gear munching my shaft. That sounds interesting, but it's not. I have another diff, but I'm all out of shafts. Can you spare a drivers side shaft? I'd be happy to Paypal you some money for it and for shipping.

I'm taking the carrier out tomorrow and replacing the diff. I've never heard of one of these failing, but It munched 2 shafts already.

Q-ZILLA wrote:

elwesso wrote:NICE! I know I have a couple spare axle shafts, I can see if the clip is still there...

Wes, I have a rear diff issue, side gear munching my shaft. That sounds interesting, but it's not. I have another diff, but I'm all out of shafts. Can you spare a drivers side shaft? I'd be happy to Paypal you some money for it and for shipping.

I'm taking the carrier out tomorrow and replacing the diff. I've never heard of one of these failing, but It munched 2 shafts already.

Thought I'd add a pic for you to contemplate... Both looked new when installed.

Exciting times! Have you itemized the numbers yet or are you afraid to? I'll let you rest for a few weeks before I send you my motor! I'm not sure I have the time or patience to take on a project like that these days. I may just have to get a low mileage imported motor, refresh a few things, install some bigger injectors and just drop it in...

Get it all dialed in and get us some good videos and get it on the dyno. Let me know if you need any help with your ECU. We could swap your 2-way with an 8-way with varying timing advance so you could see how far you could go. Might save you some dyno tuning time.

Shane

Not so exciting right now. Down again over diff/output shaft issues. I've got my original diff still, so I'll swap the gears over and put that in. The diff in there now is your old one, maybe it misses you...

8-way may just give me a headache... I love this one, but I just want fast/slow (street/hwy) tune. Yeah, give me something else to break...

Did I see that your in water treatment? Thought I saw that somewhere... BTW, do you have a LH output shaft laying around? I'm finding them hard to find. Usually, there all over Ebay. Just 5 points right now...

Are you going to replace the entire diff? or just the gears inside?

I have an entire diff if you wanted it, I don't really want to part out a diff because it's fully functional. Does your car have TCS? If so, I have a complete good TCS diff that I'd get rid of (special price for you).

I don't have TCS. Thanks anyway... Yes, I'm replacing the diff and swapping the gears, I still have my original diff. The one in here now is one of Shane's that I bought from him.

I read somewhere that you can change out the oil in the viscous to adjust it with different viscosities. Do you know anything about that? I'd like to change the oil in it if possible anyway, but I don't know what type is in it. If you don't know, any clues who might?

I don't think you can do that on a Nissan VLSD... That would be great, because really the only reason the VLSD stops working is because the fluid breaks down, but I know most other Nissan people that run high HP VLSD just get a different unit once it's fried...

elwesso wrote:I don't think you can do that on a Nissan VLSD... That would be great, because really the only reason the VLSD stops working is because the fluid breaks down, but I know most other Nissan people that run high HP VLSD just get a different unit once it's fried...

Yeah, I've been doing a little reading... It's not cut and dry, under pressure with a precise volume air bubble. Not worth the aggravation or the potential failure. I think I'll have to add a better diff to my wish list.

You can get a bone yard Ford 8.8 for $75. Hard to beat, but I'm sure it would require quite a bit of modification to the rear end.

Maybe a beefed up Q diff, they are pretty dang strong stock.

Since this is the R200 you should be able to use the nismo two way for the R32, J30, S13 etc. If I remember right they have the correct spline count of 30 which I think is right for our R200 output shafts instead of the 29 spline. I see them pop up on zilvia and ebay occasionally, might be worth looking at since they are clutch type and adjustable.

Something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NISMO-2WAY-GT-P ... 43ca6bd6ee

or this, not sure of quality though
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Z32-R200 ... 540a516b41