Question about ignition coil(?) replacement - repost in this forum

Post by **rakers** » Sun Jul 19, 2009 8:47 pm

Note: I recently posted this question in the main forum. I am reposting it here. I hope this is OK. If you are a mod and it is not, feel free to delete it without notifying me. Thanks.

My 1993 240sx is not getting a spark. I think the problem is in the ignition coil, if that's the proper name for it. I've noticed that there are two parts to the unit.

On the coil there is part #: 22433 53f00On the other part, further away from the engine is part #: PRW-12X06

Do I have to replace both parts? How much should I expect to pay for replacement parts and where is the best place to find them? I am okay buying used.

Thank you in advance for your help. This forum has always been really helpful.

Post by **vancouverbc** » Sun Jul 19, 2009 9:11 pm

rakers wrote:Note: I recently posted this question in the main forum. I am reposting it here. I hope this is OK. If you are a mod and it is not, feel free to delete it without notifying me. Thanks.

My 1993 240sx is not getting a spark. I think the problem is in the ignition coil, if that's the proper name for it. I've noticed that there are two parts to the unit.

On the coil there is part #: 22433 53f00On the other part, further away from the engine is part #: PRW-12X06

Do I have to replace both parts? How much should I expect to pay for replacement parts and where is the best place to find them? I am okay buying used.

Thank you in advance for your help. This forum has always been really helpful.

ignition coil rarely, rarely goes bad. there is a control unit that is separate.no, you dont have to replace both parts. lack of spark could be caused by soemthing else other than control unit.

Post by **rakers** » Tue Jul 21, 2009 6:35 pm

Even after 205,000 miles?

Post by **rakers** » Tue Jul 21, 2009 6:36 pm

Does anyone know the part numbers for these parts? I am not having good luck on eBay.

Post by **vancouverbc** » Wed Jul 22, 2009 12:10 pm

rakers wrote:Does anyone know the part numbers for these parts? I am not having good luck on eBay.

dont waste money buying the coil. if you want to replace parts, buy the the control module/ignitor. you wont need the part number. try the classified forums here. the strange thing is that the control module was cheaper in canada by quite a bit when i bought mine. my problem turned out to be a bad connection at the ecu plug. if you dont know what the control module is, check out what it look like at rockauto.com.

Post by **vancouverbc** » Wed Jul 22, 2009 12:18 pm

http://i130.photobucket.com/al...8.jpg

the control module attaches with two screws. it has the plug PRN 1

Post by **vancouverbc** » Wed Jul 22, 2009 12:42 pm

this is the ignitor/control module i took off my 1991 240sx. i replaced the ignitor and coil unnecessarily. the ignitor/control module cost me $130 in canada.

Post by **vancouverbc** » Wed Jul 22, 2009 9:19 pm

rock auto has the same control module for the 91 and 93 even though the number on my control unit is different from yours. same ignition coil number.

Post by **rakers** » Thu Jul 23, 2009 3:38 pm

vancouverbc wrote:rock auto has the same control module for the 91 and 93 even though the number on my control unit is different from yours. same ignition coil number.

Thank you VERY much for you through reply. I will try to order the part today and let you know what happens.

Post by **rakers** » Thu Jul 23, 2009 3:40 pm

vancouverbc wrote:http://i130.photobucket.com/al...8.jpg

the control module attaches with two screws. it has the plug PRN 1

How can I go about checking the ECU connection, before I order the part, by the way? I apologize, but I am a bit of a noob.

Post by **vancouverbc** » Thu Jul 23, 2009 6:59 pm

My problem had to do with installation of a new computer where the pins didnt line up. Buying parts at this point is probably a waste of money. You need to check with a multimeter to see how far the power is getting. this gives you an idea what part is failing. You would check fuses first. Remember that im the idiot who bought a new ignition coil and control module needlessly.

Post by **vancouverbc** » Thu Jul 23, 2009 7:17 pm

from section ec pg 161. the ignitor is also called transistor. this shows you how to test it.

Post by **rakers** » Fri Jul 24, 2009 2:53 pm

from section ec pg 161. the ignitor is also called transistor. this shows you how to test it.[/QUOTE]

Thanks again for your help. I found the PRW-1 part on eBay for US$26 shipped. I hope it works. I have no idea or tools to check power like you suggested, but my friend who helped me out initially said that it was "open" at the coil, or something like that.

Post by **rakers** » Sat Aug 01, 2009 7:40 am

Hey, I bought and installed the smaller part...it didn't fix the problem. Now I may have done something stupid by purchasing a whole new ignition coil from a friend. I should get it tomorrow.

Post by **vancouverbc** » Sat Aug 01, 2009 10:29 am

replace the resistor/condensor as well. it is circled in pic. completly melted in this pic. i think it unplugs.

Post by **StonedRhyder** » Tue Aug 04, 2009 3:39 pm

rakers wrote:Hey, I bought and installed the smaller part...it didn't fix the problem. Now I may have done something stupid by purchasing a whole new ignition coil from a friend. I should get it tomorrow.

Hey, Im having the same propblem you are. I have replaced my distributor twice, have all new plugs/wires, distributor carp and rotar, just replaced my coil yesterday. Nothing has worked, my connection in that picture isnt melted. I was wondering if when you got that other part, did it work? (the part attached to the coil housing)

or does anyone know what might cause something to screw with the crank angle sensor?

Post by **xekushnr** » Tue Aug 04, 2009 6:04 pm

StonedRhyder wrote:or does anyone know what might cause something to screw with the crank angle sensor?

IIRC if the crank sensor is bad or the circuit is messed up then the ECU wont send power to the coil, therefore not giving you spark.

Post by **StonedRhyder** » Wed Aug 05, 2009 5:53 pm

xekushnr wrote:
IIRC if the crank sensor is bad or the circuit is messed up then the ECU wont send power to the c

oil, therefore not giving you spark.

iirc??? SO MY COMPUTER MIGHT BE JUNK? errrr what are you saying?

Post by **vancouverbc** » Wed Aug 05, 2009 7:23 pm

StonedRhyder wrote:
iirc??? SO MY COMPUTER MIGHT BE JUNK? errrr what are you saying?

test your transistor/resistor/condensor

Post by **rakers** » Wed Aug 05, 2009 9:29 pm

I will do that and let you know what happens. Thanks again for the help.

Post by **StonedRhyder** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 2:03 pm

vancouverbc wrote:
test your transistor/resistor/condensor

Flam me if you must but, how do I test it? That chart doesnt make any sense. Can you explain it to me, sorry but it say if its 0 = good and if its infite its good but if both no good. ??? just confused is all

Post by **StonedRhyder** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 2:17 pm

[QUOTE=vancouverbc]

test your transistor/resistor/condensor[/QUOTE

I have a digital multimeter here, dont know what setting to put it on

Post by **vancouverbc** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 2:33 pm

StonedRhyder wrote:
vancouverbc wrote:
test your transistor/resistor/condensor[/QUOTE

I have a digital multimeter here, dont know what setting to put it on
ohms . resistance. a 1 means it is open which is infinite ohms. o ohms would be a perfect conductor. a wire should have a little resistance.

Post by **StonedRhyder** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 2:40 pm

vancouverbc wrote:
test your transistor/resistor/condensor

Well, I set it at 200k(horse shoe symbol) red on the a and black on the b = no chang, 1 space space . spacered on the a and black on the c = samered on the b and black on the a = creeps up and then goes to 1 space space . spacered on the b and black on the c = mid 30 then changes to 1 space space. space and goes up and down, never stopsred on the c and black on the a = 60's and then changes to 1 space space . space red on the c and black on the b = 90's and the changes to 1 space space . space and goes up and down never stops

I dont understand that chart , care explain?
Modified by StonedRhyder at 8:06 PM 8/6/2009

Post by **vancouverbc** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 7:57 pm

StonedRhyder wrote:
Well, I set it at 200k(horse shoe symbol) red on the a and black on the b = no chang, 1 space space . spacered on the a and black on the c = samered on the b and black on the a = creeps up and then goes to 1 space space . spacered on the b and black on the c = mid 30 then changes to 1 space space. space and goes up and down, never stopsred on the c and black on the a = 60's and then changes to 1 space space . space red on the c and black on the b = 90's and the changes to 1 space space . space and goes up and down never stops

I dont understand that chart , care explain?

Modified by StonedRhyder at 8:06 PM 8/6/2009

try a lower resistance scale. your first two reading are right ie infinite.

the last 4 readings should show a small resistance.

Post by **StonedRhyder** » Fri Aug 07, 2009 5:30 am

vancouverbc wrote:
try a lower resistance scale. your first two reading are right ie infinite.

the last 4 readings should show a small resistance.

so, i cant get it to read a straight reading, the numbers keep going up and down. Does that mean its bad power transistor?

Post by **vancouverbc** » Fri Aug 07, 2009 10:38 am

StonedRhyder wrote:
so, i cant get it to read a straight reading, the numbers keep going up and down. Does that mean its bad power transistor?

I tested my known good one. between b and c , I get a constant 1.5 ohms.

for some of the others i got 90 ohms for an instant and then goes back to 1.

You will have to get a known good one and see.

Post by **StonedRhyder** » Fri Aug 07, 2009 10:59 am

vancouverbc wrote:
I tested my known good one. between b and c , I get a constant 1.5 ohms.

for some of the others i got 90 ohms for an instant and then goes back to 1.

You will have to get a known good one and see.

dont know anyone in my area with one. I know they are $150 new, stupid little thing! Going off the readings I got would that make it a bad one?

Post by **StonedRhyder** » Sat Aug 08, 2009 7:59 am

vancouverbc wrote:
I tested my known good one. between b and c , I get a constant 1.5 ohms.

for some of the others i got 90 ohms for an instant and then goes back to 1.

You will have to get a known good one and see.

ok, well i set my meter to 2000 (horse shoes) and this is what i getred on a and black on b = i get the 1 space space . spacered on a and black on c = samered on b and black on a = 529red on b and black on c = 744red on c and black on a = 614red on c and black on b = 741

so going by that chart its a bad part, correct?

Post by **StonedRhyder** » Sun Aug 09, 2009 4:01 pm

vancouverbc wrote:
test your transistor/resistor/condensor

i got one on order from autozone along with another dizzy, will keep everyone posted. Thanks for the input from everyone, god i hope this works!

Question about ignition coil(?) replacement - repost in this forum

Question about ignition coil(?) replacement - repost in this forum

Re: Question about ignition coil(?) replacement - repost in this forum (rakers)

Re: Question about ignition coil(?) replacement ... (vancouverbc)

Re: Question about ignition coil(?) replacement ... (rakers)

Re: Question about ignition coil(?) replacement ... (rakers)

Re: Question about ignition coil(?) replacement ... (vancouverbc)

Re: Question about ignition coil(?) replacement ... (vancouverbc)

Re: Question about ignition coil(?) replacement ... (vancouverbc)

Re: Question about ignition coil(?) replacement ... (vancouverbc)

Re: Question about ignition coil(?) replacement ... (vancouverbc)

Re: Question about ignition coil(?) replacement ... (rakers)

Re: Question about ignition coil(?) replacement ... (vancouverbc)

Re: Question about ignition coil(?) replacement ... (vancouverbc)

Re: Question about ignition coil(?) replacement ... (rakers)

Re: Question about ignition coil(?) replacement ... (rakers)

Re: Question about ignition coil(?) replacement ... (rakers)

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Re: Question about ignition coil(?) replacement ... (StonedRhyder)

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