-----------------------------------------------------------------------SUMMARY: 90-93 Q45 chain guide repair (hints, suggestions, procedures):DISCLAIMER: I have not done this task (I merely read what others said).ACTION: Please review for missing steps or incorrect statements below.
NOTE: If this is anything like the last oil pan R&R, it will sound extensive but actually it will be missing key steps and procedures.-----------------------------------------------------------------------1. Forumulate a basic overview understanding of the situation at hand:...The whole chain is under tension; but we use tension & slack terminology.The crankshaft pulls on the straight leg of the chain (the tension side).Then (terminologically) the curved leg is "pushed" (i.e., the slack side)....The guides that were redesigned are the tension-side (straight) guides. A new plastic tension guide sits on top of a new metal tension guide.These two guides replace one guide (using longer bolts than original)....Light blue-gray RTV around the timing cover & oilpan is likely factory.Red RTV would most likely indicate the cover was removed at one point.The passenger side slack guide can be viewed by removing an engine porthole....The slack-side (curved) guides don't generally fail & were not redesigned.The guides on the driver's side are those that most often fail.So, that would make the driver side tension guide the main failure item....The original design used 2 guides per chain (slack-side & tension-side).The new design uses three guides per chain (2 for 1 on the tension guide).The slack-side guides were metal originally so new is almost identical....The straight leg has enough tension it almost doesn't need a guide.Even if the tension guide fails, the engine may run fine for a long while. The plastic pieces may wedge between chain and sprocket....The timing cover may crack (leaking oil profusely).The chain can break.The chain can skip a tooth (or two or three)....The main danger is a chain jumping a tooth causing valve timing changes.Each cam gear tooth is 10 degrees (each crank gear tooth is 20 degrees). One crank tooth or 2 cam teeth is the ragged edge of exhaust valve contact....The second danger is pieces lodging under the chain (perhaps breaking it).Chain guide slop may also cause engine-cover oil-chain "ears" to break off.That loose "ear" lodges in the oil pump sprocket & cracks the timing cover....Broken pieces that fall into the oil pan are also a potential problem.Large pieces (which grind ever smaller) may clog (starve) the oil pickup.Smaller pieces (grinding ever smaller) may score the oil pump vanes....There are 2 oil chain guides, but 1 wears faster than the other. The slack-side oil pump guide doesn't have a tensioner. It's just set in place and has to be manually adjusted (i.e., replaced). ...Generally you do not have to replace the timing chains.If you replace timing chains, it will take twice as long to do the job.If you replace timing chains, the valve covers will have to come off....The toughest chainguide step is R&R of the 270 ftlb crankshaft-pulley bolt.Do NOT put a chain wrench on the pulley & then tap the starter switch. You may put a wrench on the bolt resting on something solid & tap the starter....Byron apparently also takes the pulley off the power steering pump.Most replace the oil pump but there isn't much evidence to show it's needed.It would be interesting to test oil pressure before & after oilpan cleanup....Q: What is missing or incorrect from this ad hoc summary?-----------------------------------------------------------------------2. Read how to perform the job based on others' experience: ----------------------------------------------------------- Factory Shop Manual, Engine Mechanical section: Note: I could barely understand the FSM so correct as needed. ----------------------------------------------------------- Photographic summary of a chain guide & oil pan replacement:
http://www.q45.org/guidereplacement.html (
www.q45.org/guidereplacement.html)
zerothread?id=77266 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=77266) ----------------------------------------------------------- Photo of tension side guides and slack side guides:
zerothread?id=53660 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=53660)
zerothread?id=53660 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=53660) ----------------------------------------------------------- Timing chain parts list:
zerothread?id=15226 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=15226)
zerothread?id=13851 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=13851) ----------------------------------------------------------- Chain Guide step by step & Roller Chain Engineering Data:
http://nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=1632 (nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=1632)
http://www.ustsubaki.com/chainguide.html (
www.ustsubaki.com/chainguide.html) ----------------------------------------------------------- Checking chain guides:
zerothread?id=7058 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=7058)
zerothread?id=12551 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=12551) ----------------------------------------------------------- Replacing chain guides:
zerothread?id=15861 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=15861)
zerothread?id=48852 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=48852) ----------------------------------------------------------- Supporting the engine & tension-side chain guide information:
zerothread?id=27044 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=27044)
zerothread?id=92067 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=92067) ----------------------------------------------------------- Aligning marks for timing chain guide replacement:
zerothread?id=71463 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=71463)
zerothread?id=710 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=710) ----------------------------------------------------------- Checking for new chain guides:
zerothread?id=15648 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=15648)
zerothread?id=12941 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=12941) ----------------------------------------------------------- Chain guide replacement hints:
zerothread?id=26454 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=26454)
zerothread?id=28462 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=28462) ----------------------------------------------------------- Chain guide noise & broken timing chain cover debug steps:
zerothread?id=16281 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=16281)
zerothread?id=46708 (forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=46708) -----------------------------------------------------------Q: Are there any better references?-----------------------------------------------------------------------3. Obtain requisite parts from Joe of Scottsdale Infiniti or elsewhere:
http://www.EverythingNissan.com 888-216-5328 - 1x 13510-60U00 - front cover seal - 2x 13270-60U00 - valve cover gaskets (if valve cover is removed) - 4x 11051-60U04 - cam end seals (if the valve cover is removed) - 1x 13091-60U01 - guide (tension RH) - 1x 13091-60U11 - guide (tension LH) - 1x 13070-60U03 - chain tensioner (RH) - 1x 13070-60U12 - chain tensioner (LH) - 2x 13085-60U01 - chain guide (tensioner guide?) - 2x 13085-60U11 - chain guide - 2x 13094-60U00 - guide bolts - 2x 01121-04711 - guide bolts - 4x 13075-60U02 - tensioner bolts - 1x 13079-60U01 - tensioner gasket (LH) - 1x 15041-60U00 - oil pump chain (highly recommended) - 1x 15073-60U00 - oil pump chain guide - 1x 15073-60U10 - oil pump chain guide - 1x 15072-60U00 - bracket oil pump - 1x 15044-60U00 - crank/oil sprocket - 1x 15043-60U00 - crank/timing sprocket - 2x 13021-60U00 - crank/cam sprockets (if warranted) - 2x 13028-60U00 - timing chains (if warranted)
Q: Which parts are mandatory or recommended, & which are merely optional?-----------------------------------------------------------------------4. Line up the necessary shop tools: - Garage tools (jack/stands or ramps, creeper, etc) - Common metric sockets (8, 10, 12, 14, 15, 17, 19mm) - You will use the 10mm the most by far so have a few types on hand. - Large crank bolt socket (30 or 31mm) - Ratchets and 10 mm wrenches. - 18" breaker bar and an extension pipe. - A 300 ft-lb torque wrench (maybe). - A large puller (Sears has them for about $30) - A 5mm allen socket (do not use an allen wrench); this is CRITICAL. - A chain wrench long enough to wrap around the main pulley. - That chain wrench must have a 3-foot handle (or a 3-foot pipe) - An old ribbed belt sufficient to wrap around the crank pulley. - Other common shop tools--pliers, vise grips, magnetic tool pickups, etc. - RTV (1 tube of Permatex Blue will be plenty). - Feeler gauges (1mm, 0.04 inches) for chain-to-guide distance.
Q: What suggested tools are missing from this list?-----------------------------------------------------------------------5. Overview of chain guide replacement steps (no chains = 10 hours): - Inspect lower valve cover abutment with engine for RTV color - Or pull the front-most oil pan bolt to check the RTV in the bolt hole. - If it's light gray/blue, then it's most likely still factory sealed. - Red RTV (most common) is not factory (according to most accounts). - This isn't definitive; but it's a circumstantial hint nonetheless. - Remove all plastic trim pieces to expose radiator and cover. - Drain coolant and remove radiator. - Remove all belts. - Remove all belt tensioners. - Remove metal bracket on PS fluid pump covering front cover. - Remove coolant hose running across front cover. - Align the pulley to TDC (How? There are six crankshaft-pully notches). - What do we align the left-most (facing engine) crank-pulley notch to? - Remove crank pulley main bolt with a wrench on the nut. - Use a chain wrench to immobilize the crank pully while you tug. - You may need to put an old belt section to cover the pulley ribs. - This helps give the chain wrench more bite & may protect the ribs too. - If you can run the car, use just the wrench & tap the starter. - This (if done in the right direction) may loosen the crank pulley bolt. - Leave the 5 small balance bolts & allen-head bolt on the crank pulley. - Pull off the unbolted crank pulley with a 3-jaw puller or equivalent. - Remove the front lower timing chain cover screws. - Note there four oil pan bolts holding the lower timing chain cover. - Note the upper timing chain covers may remain on the engine. - Remove the lower front cover. - Note the 6 different lengths and 32 bolt holes (keep track). - Pry at the bottom corner of the cover, near the alternator - Also pry just below the water pump. - May need to remove the pump (5 bolts and RTV) to get to pry point. - Try to pry/pull as evenly as possible. - Don't damage the solid gasket between lower & upper timing covers. - Immediately after removing the cover, block the oil pan with towels. - Inspect all timing chains for cracks or excessive wear indications. - Locate the TDC dimple below a tooth in the crank sprocket. - Just above that dimpled tooth should be a timing chain GOLD LINK. - Remove the oil pump chain, guide and sprocket (which is not keyed). - Note the oil pump crankshaft sproket has a key cut. - This oil pump crank sprocket keyway isn't used to hold it in place. - Compression/friction of the 270 foot pound crankshaft bolt holds it. - This oil pump sprocket keyway is there only to put it on the crankshaft. - Cinch timing chains tightly to prevent jumping a sprocket tooth. - This is the most critical step (most folks use tie wraps) - Remove the old chain guides (don't let the chains loosen). - Re-cinch chains, if needed, to be safe (do we use a 1mm feeler gauge?). - Use a 5mm allen socket to remove the old tensioners (very tight) - Install new tensioners and guides (don't use a 5mm allen wrench) - Measure with a feeler gauge 1mm distance between upper guides & chain. - Make sure there is no gunk clogging the tensioner oil ports. - Use "BG Quick Clean for Engines" (if necessary) to unclog HLA passages. - Try to fish out any pieces left in the oil pan (or vacuum them out). - Install new oil pump chain, guide and sprocket. - Turn the crankshaft slowly by hand before putting covers on. - If anything binds, now is the time to find out. - Clean the mating surfaces of the cover and degrease - Don't bend the solid gasket above the cover as you install the cover. - Note there is no RTV between the timing cover and its solid gasket. - Apply fresh RTV and install cover with all bolts. - Torque all cover bolt to spec where possible (see FSM). - Torque the crankshaft pulley bolt to 270 foot pounds. - 90 lbs of force on a 3-ft bar will do if you don't have a torque wrench. - Install everything in the reverse order of removal - Fill up coolant - Fill up the oil - Turn main pully two full turns to spread oil around the engine. - You'll feel & hear the compresson cycles; hopefully nothing else. - Torque up the main bolt to 270 ft-lbs before replacing the belts. - Two strong guys are probably best for this step. - Pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine to spread some more oil. - Replace the fuel pump fuse. - Crank engine & turn off imediately 5 or 10 [sometimes 20] times. - It may sound like the engine is going to explode for a minute. - HLA & tensioners need to bleed air admitted when you changed them. - The noise should suddenly go away after a few minutes running. - Run [multiple] warm/hot power balances - Make sure every cylinder drop is no more than 25 rpm variance. - If you have not dropped the oil pan, run an oil pressure check. - This might tell you if the oil pickup is clogged with guide debris.
Q: What steps are missing or incorrect or misleading in this summary?-----------------------------------------------------------------------6. QUESTIONS: - Q: Which specific parts in the parts list above are mandatory? - Q: What are the correct names of the confusing front engine covers? - Q: How do you set the crank pulley to #1 cylinder compression stroke TDC? - Q: Does RTV go only on one side of the timing cover gasket material? - Q: How do you do a "power balance" as recommended by q45tech? - Q: I see timing marks on the pulley; where do they line up on the block? - Q: Should the transmission cooler be serviced at the same time? - Q: What's a CAS mark? - Q: What's an HLA passage?-----------------------------------------------------------------------7. IMAGES: Note: All images courtesy of DAEDALUS in NICO post:
zerothread?id=92729
The tension-side guides are the ones that fail. Driver's side fails usually fails first; probably because the passenger-side is closer to vertical.
Collection of parts for a chain guide job.
Original, failure-prone guide.
Close-up of new guide installed. Note that it's a 2-piece design, nylon-clad metal piece on one side and a thick beefy nylon piece on the other side.-----------------------------------------------------------------------