Pwr Balance Diag Results

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SFBayQ45
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Just brought my car to the dealership for some preventative maintenance work. I requested for a CONSULT-II hook-up, and this is what they found. What does all this mean, in plain english, since I'm not mechanically inclined?

P/# 23710-64U21Reference DataNo.1 64rpmNo.2 74rpmNo.3 66rpmNo.4 67rpmNo.5 73rpmNo.6 70rpmNo.7 66rpmNo.8 62rpm

Base DataCMPS-RPM (POS) 1099rpmCoolant Temp/S 81 C

Mixture Ratio Test Results Reference DataCMPS-RPM(POS) 2005rpmMAS Air/Fl SE 1.8VCoolant Temp/S 78 CClsd Thl Pos OFFInj Pulse 2.4msecInj Pulse-R 2.4msecO2S1 Max 0.79VO2S1 Min 0.33VO2S1 Count 9O2S1 (B2) Max 0.89VO2S1 (B2) Min 0.07VO2S1 (B2) CNT 13A/F Alpha 96%A/F Alpha-R 98%

No DTC is detected. Further testing may be required.


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Rex
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Try cross referencing your data with Q45Tech's responses in this thread.

Q45tech
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Looks good to me: Max 74 min 62 average 67.75 rpm drop when ignition and fuel shut off to a cylinder against a locked 1099 rpm with all 8 firing ~~ 6.16% average drop per cylinder [running on 7]............less than 1/2% variation from 1099 rpm.

The only thing I see wrong is some data taken before the engine was at 176F operating temp even power balance done at 162F.

That means either they didn't wait long enough to warm it up or the thermostat needs replacing. Assuming it was at least 70F ambient in SF.

78C= 157F way too low to test as FSM requires 176F!

Commonly missed by techs, thermostat perfection.

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Rex
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Dennis, in your opinion would that be sufficient grounds to ask them to re-run the diags (at least that part) at no charge??

Or is that just asking for them to skimp on something elsewhere? (Assuming they get some service work from the diags test)

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SFBayQ45
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Q45tech / Rex - Thank you both for your feedbacks.

So based on your comments, it appears that the tech didn't do the proper testing procedure. Therefore the results are not reliable enough to make an accurate conclusion? To follow-up on Rex's sentiment, does this technicality warrant a second look at no cost...after all, I did pay a pretty penny for this service...

If the thermostat needs to be replace, then I'll replace it. But on the contrary, could it be because my engine isn't warming up fast enough. I noticed on morning warm-ups that even if I let the car idle for 5-10 minutes, the temperature gauge doesn't move one milimeter from the Cold position. Is that normal? It only moves ever so slowly as I begin to drive and rests a few milimeters below 3 o'clock.

Rex - I don't understand the logic of the question below. Could you explains? "Or is that just asking for them to skimp on something elsewhere? (Assuming they get some service work from the diags test)"

The only other test I didn't take advantage of (or more accurately, didn't have the greens to put out) was the compression test. I really wanted to see how the engine has been holding up, but the $500+ in labor cost quickly made me decline the work. I needed confirmation that this engine is worth investing into, since the next major maintenance item is the chain guide replacement. Do you think it's the right decision to invest an additional $2000 now (Cali shop rate, unfortunately not T3 rate).

Q45tech
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Now that you explain the home warm up process you definitely need a new thermostat!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.............the old Consult 1 wouldn't even do a power balance till 176F, the newer one seems more flexible.

The readings are fine in the diagnosis even at 160F.

These Consult test don't really tell you a lot other than the sensor airflow ecu is responding properly and the cylinders are pretty equal in power production.

What that power is, is not known [dyno?] stopwatch acceleration test ..........compression leak down test.

No codes and a good power balance is a good start.

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Q451990
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Definately replace the t-stat. If you're doing this yourself, go ahead and order the "L Hose that connects between the T-stat housing and the "sacrificial annode pipe" that connects to the lower radiator hose. I had to cut mine to replace it. To do a really good job, go ahead and order the pipe, hose, t-stat cover, and new t-stat.

Heath

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elwesso
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I agree with that... Mine had barnacles (but not a lot) but I was cheap and didnt replace either....

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Rex
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Quote »Rex - I don't understand the logic of the question below. Could you explains? "Or is that just asking for them to skimp on something elsewhere? (Assuming they get some service work from the diags test)"[/quote]My point was if the "under" temp read results need to be re-read AND they do at no cost (at your insistance), would they do it at no cost only figuring they'd need to make it up somewhere else later. If you don't plan on having them do any of the work, then it's kind of a non-issue.

Q45tech
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Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl

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You asked for a simple basic slam bam Consult diagnosis and that's what they gave you. It isn't the techs fault that the car didn't warm up.It probably is their fault that they didn't notice the temperature and require you to change the thermostat before proceeding then charge you for after testing, but you still got what you paid for.

My point is that the readings probably won't change materially. Good readings are good readings! More the small number of parameters you published.



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