While traveling to Toronto I had this problem twice. Driving normally for more than half way without any problems and that was 5 people in the car. After that the car started to slow down so I started to push the gas pedal more to speed up. Even that I pushed the pedal as far as possible the car did not speed up. Even the rpm did not go more than 2900. It's not like the car didn't act at all but not way it is supposed to be. Driving about 70 mph rpm about 2500 and after i pushed the gas pedal to the max the rpm jumping to 2900 and the car doesn't speed up. Stopped by at rest area for a cigarette and then the car acted normally. Does anyone know what is going on? Is this a tranny going bad or something like a governor starts working once in a while? Before the trip on fri I have replaced vent control valve and check engine never popped up. Even while checking the codes no codes been detected.

Read something simliar to that in the forum. Sounds vaguely familiar to what happened to others in here. Them being on the highway for a bit then the driver having to press the accelerator to the floor and not getting any acceleration. Then the symptom goes away. Forgot if they found a reason.

Well I was reading a lot of stuff on this forum but nothing even close to that problem. I remember that some people had all the lights on the dash but the car didn't accelerate and they did shut off the car and start it back on to solve the problem. In my case I did not have any lights on dash.

I think the specific problem casperfun is thinking about was related to the sensor in the brake peddle, when it goes bad it confuses the computer, no input to indicate that the brake was applied, so it basically goes into limp mode, press the accelerator all the way to the floor and you get only gradual acceleration. I'd have that problem checked out at the dealer when you have time, please let us know if you get a problem diagnosed...

The posts Kerrton was referring to:

acceleration-problem-t495442-40.html#p5772969

vdc-off-slip-lights-coming-on-t501963.html?#p5745750

Took the car to the dealership on fri...and didn't find anything wrong with it except they told me the extra noise in the car because of the cheap tires. Will take it to a different dealership this fri. Tried to talk to mechanic about "limp mode" and brake switch where mechanic declined all these problems and said the brake switch is good. So I will never come back to that dealership for service again.

This is sounding more common where the service tech can't reproduce the intermittent issue and there are no fault codes to indicate the issue that you have prior to arriving at the dealer.

I too would be frustrated with this, but I don't know if you can necessarily blame the service tech, it seems that when he checked your brake switch everything was fine and there were no fault codes to indicate a problem. In this case it looks like the design of the car may be to blame, I can't understand why this vehicle seems to have difficulting generating and storing fault codes when something like this occurs. If it gets a bad signal from the brake switch, or a CVT that has gone in to limp mode, there most definately should be a fault code in the ECU to make diagnosis easy for the service tech. In this case it seems as though the vehicle is deficient in logging these intermittent fault events and the service tech can do very little if the car does not act up while he has it in the shop.

When this happens throw it in neutral and remove air box to see if the TB is opening.
I'm on my phone so I didn't read the whole issue. I'll get back to this when I'm home.

Well this problem never appeared again probably because right now I'm driving short distance to the work only which takes about 20 min one way. This weekend I'm going to Pennsylvania which is about 4 hours one way and I'll check that on the way.

TaiLuu wrote:When this happens throw it in neutral and remove air box to see if the TB is opening.

The Rogue has a drive-by-wire throttle body, it reads a sensor in the accelerator pedal and drives the throttle electronically.

The only problem with checking movement of the TB, is you need to pull the intake and mass airflow sensor to see it. Removal of the MAF may cause the ECU to go into limp mode... if the engine even runs at all!

That could be the case to car could be in limp mode. For Honda limp mode doesn't let car rev up over 4k. Idk the case for Nissan
But the thing is that your car is working properly again.

My 2009 Rogue has intermittently been doing this also. I dropped it off at the dealer yesterday but am afraid they are not going to find anything since no error lights came on. It is very dangerous when it does this. I also think it has something to do with driving on the highway for a while and then slowing down or stopping and restarting. Does anyone know if this problem happened again or was diagnosed correctly?

My Rogue is having intermittent problems with acceleration after driving on the highway. It does it when it slows and you try to start going again and it does it when you stop after being on the highway and try to start going again. It does not do it every time the car is driven on the highway either. I had to floor it to get it to move yesterday after getting off the highway and stopping at the light & the RPMs barely went up. It started to slowly move and then it finally got going. And then it didn't do it again during the 5 miles to the dealer. The dealer cannot duplicate the problem and they say since no error lights come on & they don't see anything on the computer, there is nothing they can do. They said it is not the throttle positioning sensor because that would have showed up on the computer.

Anyone else have these issues?

Anyone have any suggestions? I do not feel safe or comfortable driving the car now.

Any help/ideas would be much appreciated!!

Similar post merged by moderator

One dealership didn't even listen to any of my guess/comment that I made since they couldn't find anything wrong with the car. The other dealership cleaned throttle body after I cleaned (by saying that my throttle body is pretty clean for 77k miles ), replaced air filter, checked the fluids, did relearn idle procedure and told me my oil was a little bit lower then supposed to be. That's all they could say for now. They didn't charge me for any diagnostic but they did for the labor. Now I have to check it again but didn't have any chance to drive long distance yet. Maybe this weekend I'll go camping which is about 2 hours away from me...we'll see.

Well good luck! Dealer has had my car all week and can't figure it out since it doesn't cause any error codes. They say they have a call into Nissan. I have a feeling this isn't going to be resolved anytime soon but I'll keep my fingers crossed. Hope your problem has been fixed and your long drive goes well!!

I have a 2009 SL with 29,000 miles. Last week, I was on an 8 hour trip that included both interstate and back roads. I had returned to the interstate for approx. 30 minutes when it started raining. I don't know exactly when the acceleration problem began because I naturally slowed down. I also turned on the headlights. When I noticed I was going slower than I wanted, I pressed the accelerator and nothing really happened. I was going around 60 mph. The engined seemed to stay around 2400 rpm. Needless to say, I was getting rather concerned because I had about 3 hours left on the trip. At some point the VDC light came on. When the rain let up, I turned off the headlights and magically, the accelaration issue went away. The light stayed on until I stopped for gas. When I restarted the engine, the light was off and hasn't returned. Because I noticed the headlights affected the acceleration, I turned the lights on a couple of times before stopping for gas and everytime, the problem returned and then went away when the lights were turned off. After getting gas, I experimented with the lights and the problem returned. Fortunately, I got home before dark. A few days later I took a short trip in the evening and had no problems even when I used the lights. I guess I'll take it to the dealer just so they will have a record of the problem, but sounds like nothing will be done since I can't now replicate the problem.

u511arw wrote:Because I noticed the headlights affected the acceleration, I turned the lights on a couple of times before stopping for gas and everytime, the problem returned and then went away when the lights were turned off. After getting gas, I experimented with the lights and the problem returned. Fortunately, I got home before dark. A few days later I took a short trip in the evening and had no problems even when I used the lights. I guess I'll take it to the dealer just so they will have a record of the problem, but sounds like nothing will be done since I can't now replicate the problem.

Have the dealer inspect the electrical system including the battery and charging system. It's possible the headlights placed an additional load on the vehicle's electrical system and the system voltage dropped to the point other issues started to appear.

Think of it as an electrical brownout... when the lights dim in your house because of power problems. Same thing can happen to your car creating all sorts of electrical and computer issues.

We have just completed a long run over nine days from Ontario to BC via some interstates, so 99% highway and 1% in town finding Best Westerns and poking around. It seems as if the electronics have one setting for highway and one for city driving and when having to shift from one to the other, it gets confused and has to reset itself. "psycho" has comments on the mpg thread relating to rpms etc., and while we've not had a problem reaching 4500 rpm (once, in the mountains) and 3000 rpms often, sometimes the rpms and speed don't seem to match i.e. OK if in "low gear" but mismatched when trying to reach "high gear". There is definitely some - if not a lot - of lag time which can be dangerous if one is a whip-in-and-out lane-change driver in the city; timing lane changes can be hairy. I'm not, but on a long trip like we've just completed (and we still have to go back home), it takes some thought and planning nonetheless. I find I drive more careful, knowing the faults of the vehicle; fewer high and low speeds and more the average like actually adhering to posted speed limits. What makes this kind of OK with us is that the seating is very comfortable, the interior layout is very good, the fit of everything is VG and it runs very well. The styling is a bonus. One last thing. When I think the rpms and speed are out of wack, I lift my foot off the gas pedal slightly then back on again. The rpms drop but the speed stays the same, kind of like when overdrive kicks in on a regular vehicle.

Well, for anyone interested or anyone who has the same intermittent acceleration problems after being on the highway, my dealer finally called the Nissan Tech Line (after having my car for a week and not being able to duplicate the problem or find any errors on the computer). Another Rogue came into the dealer with the same symptoms as mine so I guess they decided it was time to call for help. Anyway, NIssan said they are aware of this problem and they blame it on the high heat we have had here in St Louis and the temperature of the transmission fluid. As the fluid heats, it expands so much that the transmission thinks it has been overfilled which causes these problems. According to Nissan engineers, all they had to do was lower the level of the CVT transmission fluid. As for why this only happens to some Rogues and some CVT transmissions, my dealer really couldn't explain that to me. Oh well, maybe this info will help someone with the same problem in the future! And I HOPE this solves my Rogue's problem!!!

Well...The problem kinda disappeared but not completely. RPM was working normally I believe but I got a weird sound during accelerating after 70 mph about 3k rpm. Here's the video that I captured (sorry the quality isn't perfect) but the car is going back to the dealership soon:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=olxJr8ak3Pg[/youtube]

lizzies1 wrote:Well, for anyone interested or anyone who has the same intermittent acceleration problems after being on the highway, my dealer finally called the Nissan Tech Line (after having my car for a week and not being able to duplicate the problem or find any errors on the computer). Another Rogue came into the dealer with the same symptoms as mine so I guess they decided it was time to call for help. Anyway, NIssan said they are aware of this problem and they blame it on the high heat we have had here in St Louis and the temperature of the transmission fluid. As the fluid heats, it expands so much that the transmission thinks it has been overfilled which causes these problems. According to Nissan engineers, all they had to do was lower the level of the CVT transmission fluid. As for why this only happens to some Rogues and some CVT transmissions, my dealer really couldn't explain that to me. Oh well, maybe this info will help someone with the same problem in the future! And I HOPE this solves my Rogue's problem!!!

Thanks for sharing that, we've got another resolution to this problem, and it's a completely new one. I'm surprised to hear of this fix, "it's too hot so drain some trans fluid". What happens when winter arrives, do they have to then add some fluid to compensate for extreme cold I wonder? Strange, but I imagine they only drained a very small amound and it's good to know that the Nissan Engineers have designed and prescribed this fix, its not sometihng the tech's at your dealership thought up on their own.

kerrton, I agree. If this fix just came from my dealer, I would be very leery. But since it came from the Nissan engineers, I guess they know what they are talking about. They did say it was only a small amount of CVT fluid that was removed. I asked it this was going to cause other problems & they said no. I'm still nervous to drive it but I guess that will go away with time. I'll let you guys know if the problem comes back but I am hoping this will be the answer

I have experienced this problem several times since hitting about 85K. I have a little over 87,000 miles on my car now and put on about 100 per day during the work week, as I have a very long commute. I have found after traveling on the hwy, when I come to a stop, I am unable to accelerate, I pump the gas a bit and then I am on my way. This is fine if you are at a stoplight, but when it happens in hwy traffic, not so good.

Additionally I drove from San Jose to Santa Barbara this past weekend (4 hrs) I had the exact acceleration problem you all are experiencing. When I hit an incline, I was unable to accelarate, stuck at about 65 mph and btwn 2500 and 2900 rpms, flooring it, with no response. If I let off the gas and then accelerated again, I could only reach the point I was before, 65 to 70 mph. This happend on both the way down to SB and on the return trip, after driving about 200 miles. So St Louis peeps, this is not a weather issue, the Bay Area/Central Coast is not super hot.

I took my car in to Nissan service before making the trip, as I was already having the issue. Nissan lowered the tranny fluid, but it clearly did not fix the problem. My dealership has also been unable to replicate the issue and there are no error messages coming up, similar to what you all have stated. I WAS charged a $140 diagnostic and really don't want to pay another one. Not sure what to do now.

Anyone have anything new?

I have the same problem for the first time. I was driving in a hot weather (there was a heat wave notice that day) for about 60+ miles with A/C on full blast doing 85mph. Then suddenly exact thing as what Leo2005 has experienced. My car won't accelerate but it went away after parked for 2 hours+. I've also been getting that weird sound like Leo2005 since last year but I just ignored it. Leo2005, do you have any updates on your issue? I have about 57k on my 2008 Rogue. One common denominator is that this exact thing (loss acceleration and no check engine light) is happening with 2008 Nissan Rogue only. I want to do a cleaning of MAF sensor and throttle body but it seems like that didn't help Leo2005.

kots1 wrote:I have the same problem for the first time. I was driving in a hot weather (there was a heat wave notice that day) for about 60+ miles with A/C on full blast doing 85mph. Then suddenly exact thing as what Leo2005 has experienced. My car won't accelerate but it went away after parked for 2 hours+. I've also been getting that weird sound like Leo2005 since last year but I just ignored it. Leo2005, do you have any updates on your issue? I have about 57k on my 2008 Rogue. One common denominator is that this exact thing (loss acceleration and no check engine light) is happening with 2008 Nissan Rogue only. I want to do a cleaning of MAF sensor and throttle body but it seems like that didn't help Leo2005.

Well Get the car checked for Codes even if the CEL doesn't light up.
And Clean MAF a TB anyways.
You guys think Cracked Spark plug could cause this?

Leo2005 wrote:Well...The problem kinda disappeared but not completely. RPM was working normally I believe but I got a weird sound during accelerating after 70 mph about 3k rpm. Here's the video that I captured (sorry the quality isn't perfect) but the car is going back to the dealership soon:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=olxJr8ak3Pg[/youtube]

Thats A Tranny slip.

I have a 2008 rogue that ran like a charm for 65k then the whirly noise appeared at 50mph. The dealer replaced the cvt under extended warranty because of burnt tranny fluid but now with the new 10 day old tranny I'm scared to turn at intersections. 1 minute it's great then I stop at a light to turn left and the darn thing goes into limp mode. I floor it and get only high rpms and noise, no actual movement. It's like I'm a sitting duck, waiting to get T-boned when the light turns. I've had it towed and driven it in limp mode to the dealer. He test rode it with me and it did it to him but when they hooked it up to the computer, he came back with a can't do anything "because it won't pull codes." He then tried to reassure me that it's fine and perfectly normal for it to redline. I did notice the vdc light come on but that's only when it's working well. It doesn't affect driving and goes off if I turn the car of. We are going to try to to recreate the issue today to pull codes -at my insistance. I will suggest the flui expansion under high heat although it runs great here even at 110f. It only has issues after I stop at alight. So, I'll have him check the brake switch because another dealer told me it was the issue in another Rogue she had. If anyone has any input please right back. This is a major malfunction that could cause accidents. I know I'm not the only one.

I agree this is a major problem and I'm disappointed to hear your dealer is so unwilling to put your interests and safety first and keep the vehicle until a resolution is found. To state that they "can't do anything unless it throws a code" is complete nonesense, if they observed and experienced this dangerous behavior in a road test that is more than sufficient to move forward with keeping the vehicle for warranty work until the problem is properly eliminated. Also, the fact that you experienced the dangerous behavior and were told "don't worry, since there wasn't a code thrown you'll be ok, this is normal" is so unbelivable it is really getting me hot under the collar, this is a complete dis-service to you.

Just so you know, you aren't being at all unreasonable by insisting that they continue to work on troubleshooting this problem until they find a proper resolution. I would not even consider taking that vehicle back until it's fixed.

First detail - make sure that the documentation states "dealer observed problem with acceleration....". If they observed and experienced the problem get them to document it on the service record, get a print out for yourself and then you're good to go. If they refuse to keep working on it, just say you'll be contacting Nissan corporate directly, and referencing their service statement/invoice where they state that there is a problem. You'll be surprised how quickly they change their tune, and if they don't, give Nissan Corporate a call directly and refer to the work order and their unwillingness or inability to solve the dangerou situation, and you'll get some action in hurry.

The brake switch is a possible source of the problem, a quick check that you can do is have someone apply the brakes and see if your rear brake lights come on, if they don't come on then your brake switch is dead.

Good luck and let us know how things go....

Just an update for everyone. Took the car to a different dealership and after the whole day of diagnostic they found that the bearing in transmission is bad. So they ordered all the parts today but parts are very rare and it takes about a month to get it. There will be no charge since it's covered under 10-year warranty. They also going to do some maintenance to transmission such as fluid change as well at no cost. I'll give you guys more info when I get it done.

Boy I'm interested in more details, I wonder what "bearing" they're referring to? The CVT iself is a sealed unit that can't be serviced, there is an external valve body that can be replaced, perhaps they're referring to that?

Anyway Leo if you could give some detail once the work is complete it would be much appreciated, thanks.

Hey guys. Here's the parts that been replaced:
310CM-1XT5CRE Transaxle Assy
999MP-AM006P Transmission Co
999MP-NS200P NS-2 CVT Tranmi
Big difference. RPM stabilized and the car doesn't show any signs of stalling like a lot of people experienced it on this forum. Vibration is gone completely as on steering wheel as while driving. A friend of mine took the car couple weeks ago on the lift and we saw that the car was acting the same way like other guy showed us a video on youtube. The car was ready to jump off the lift and mine was actually doing it worse. Anyway...the car drives like new right now and I guess it's time for sale