OMFG... can u NOT read..??svensko wrote:There is a P/WINDOW fuse in the fusebox under the hood on my car (95 SE). I Just had this problem today and found it and thought I'd help you out.
He was just trying to help..?? He could have helped by READING and understanding what i wrote down.. I already checked that fuse that he mentioned... its clearly stated that i checked that fuse... and it checked out fine... That is why i got cocky. And edit my post for easier reading..?? My post is written out CLEAR and easy for everyone to understand. Its not my fault he MISSED the part where is says, THE 25 AMP fuse in the engine bay is good....step02 wrote:Wow, he was just trying to help you out. It would help if you had edited your post for easier reading.
How did you test your fuse?
Yes i found that fuse 2 weeks ago and it tests good in and out of the car...driftingmy240sx wrote:the ony thing nissan uses 7.5 amp fuses for is the "electrinic parts" fuse. it will be in the fuse block in the car.
What wiring diagram do u need me to email u..?? Thats a waste of time. Do u have power windows..?? If so, then start pulling fuses from the kick panel till the windows STOP working..... Then tell me which fuse it was....driftingmy240sx wrote:i have a s14 e-mail me the wirng diagram and whicj h fuse you are looking for and i will see if i can find it to help you out.i am a nissan master tech and have access to "ASIST" if more info is [email protected]
U offered to WASTE my time, not help.. There is a difference, but its obvious you cant SEE nor understand that..Im not being belligerant, just using common freaking sense... and im trying to fix this as EASY as possible... but some people obviously dont understand...Do me a favor and move on and someone out there that understands what fuse im looking for can take 5 min out of their busy lifestyle to go to their kick panel fuse box and start pulling fuses till their windows STOP working.... Once then they can TELL me which fuse it was so that i can start from there...driftingmy240sx wrote:i offered to help you and you decide to be belligerant. good luck.
Let me REPEAT myself again, maybe u can understand...my FSM states that ALL the main control relays (4 in total), each relay is ACTIVATED by a 7.5 amp fuse LOCATED in the #1 position in the main fuse box. I went into this fuse box and CANNOT locate the #1 fuse.... WHY... cause NONE are labled numerically.... They are just labled for what they are...I DID find a 7.5 amp fuse on the TOP RIGHT labeled electronic parts... like u said. But why its not labled #1 as the FSM states beats the sh*t out of me. So i checked it AGAIN for a 3rd time and its GOOD. I have 12v on BOTH sides of the fuse which means power is passing thru it but not making its way to the relays.... There is obviously a break in the wire somewhere between the end of the fuse and the 1st relay it hits which is supposed to be the defroster relay. According to the fsm that wire goes FROM the fuse to the main def relay, then jumps to the pwr window relay, then jumps to the sunroof relay... Somewhere in between all that jumping, my techtom's 12V wire taps off there.... cause its dead also..driftingmy240sx wrote:the wiring diagram i have also shows that fuse as powering the dlc. which is like i said the elec parts fuse. the fuse in the kick plate thats highlighted in white. thats why a wiring diagram would help. but obviously you dont need any help.
Well, i already have that kick panel off, ill loosen the fuse block and trace the wire that comes after the fuse to see if there is a break close to it. I dont know how that wire broke loose (or whatever came loose or broke)cause i have not touched anything down there. Everything worked when i went to auto zone, then on the way back i got home, went to roll the windows up and NOTHING.... Just like that.driftingmy240sx wrote:i pulled the power supply schematic for your car off of nissan asist. you have said you have power at fuse 1 which is the top right fuse in the block. that said you can eliminate the ignition relay1, you have power at w/r wire at window relay so that eliminates the circuit breaker.
if you do not have power at the green wire (pin 1) of the relay but you have it at the fuse the wire broke, which is what you have said. fuse 1 controls the following - mil, door chime, def, sunroof, cruise, windows and antitheft. if all of these items are "dead the break is most likely very close to the fuse.
95% of all wire breaks are 6 or less inches from a connector. looking at the harness layout it looks like the harness comes out of the fuse block and runs down the a-pillar to 4 relays. should be pretty easy to trace that wire with the kick plate removed and with the fuse block loose to gain access to the rear of it. with all the items being powered by this fuse there is probalby a splice jucntion that has broken.
yep, BROKEN fuse BUT check this out....!!!driftingmy240sx wrote:did you ever find the problem with your windows?
There are NO circuit breakers period.... Everything is FUSED..!!squirrl22 wrote:Where is the power window circuit breaker?What does it look like?I've done a bunch of searches- nothing comes up.Thanks!
i guess ur right, i never got to that point in the pwr window section as i had more things wrong other than the pwr windows...i have no clue what that breaker looks like nor where it can be. does the manual state a physical location on where it is..? heck, if it says there is one, then i would assume it would tell u where its located.... thats just common sense imo..!squirrl22 wrote:The Nissan shop manual, page EL-157, clearly says there is a circuit breaker after the25A fuseable link, but before the power window relay terminal.
I need to know what the circuit breaker looks like and where it is located.as I have power to the 25A fuseable link, but no power to the power window terminal