Since a lot of people are interested in KAT I thought these pictures might help New NICO members who are new to KAT. From my personal experience this was the biggest headache to getting my KAT project installed. I had to do it several times before I got it right.

OIL RETURN BUNG NO AC LOCATION



Here is a oil pan I got when I bought this engine several weeks ago. Notice the bung is right below the AC bracket. If you are using AC you will not be able to use this location

OIL RETURN BUNG WITH AC



If you notice in this pic the oil return bung is next to the AC bracket. It was so close that I had to grind on the AC bracket to get the 90 degree Earl fitting in place. The key here is to look at the bolt next to the bung. If you want to make it easier to install the pan bolt you need to get the bung as close to that bolt as possible without blocking it. You don`t want it to far to the right or you may run into a problem with the AC bracket.

Complete pic of return bung.



This is what it should look like when everything is connected. Notice in the picture that the oil return line is almost verticle. This is important for proper oil drain.

90 degree Earl -10AN fitting.



Here is a close up of the 90 degree earl fitting. Notice how close it is to the AC bracket.


OIL PRESSURE SIDE



This is a BSPT (British Standard Pipe Thread) T fitting. The correct male end to mate with the factory oil sensor port on the engine block (Male 1/8 BSPT). On the opposite end is the correct female end to accept the factory sensor (Female 1/8 BSPT). On the side of the fitting is an oil take-off port, where you can install any 1/8 NPT fitting for feeding your turbo. The BSPT and the NPT look exactly alike. You can not tell the difference from looking at it. I know because I was sent the NPT and it will not thread into the block. I learned that lesson the hard way.


TURBO WITH OIL PRESSURE AND RETURN.



Notice in this picture you can see the return oil line on the bottom and the oil pressure side on the top. Most turbo`s have to be clocked in another words turned to make the top side pressure and the bottom side return.

The oil drain should be -10AN in size and the oil pressure side should be -3AN in size.

Earl fittings not cheap but won`t leak or give you problems.
Part numbers:
- Steel braided hose -10AN
- 809110 Swivel-Seal 90 deg. Tube Hose End -10AN
- 800110 Swivel-Seal Straight Hose End -10AN
- 981610 Straight, Pipe Thread To A.N. Adapter 1/2 to -10AN
- 967110 Steel Weld Fitting -10AN
- Auto-Flex Hose (Use Swivel Seal, Auto-Fit or Auto-Mate Hose Ends) You will need little over 1ft. I used Steel braided

Then there is an Oil Drain Flange Kit that you will need. It is specific to the turbo you choose. All this stuff can be found at anplumbing.com except for the turbo drain adapter. A lot of places sell Earls fittings but this site is easy to use.

Hope this helps and if you want the part numbers I will add it later.

Those pictures will be very helpful for the community, thank you. Don't forget an oil restrictor in the oil feed line on -4AN line though. .060" for most turbos, .035" for GT turbos, can be had at ATP turbo or McMasterCarr has em too.

Nice post Bobby! I'll add it to the stickey .

The only thing I'd recommend is to actually run a line off the oil feel instead of T'ing it. Under hard acceleration the motor moves quite a bit, and this T has the chance to break. Instead if you run a line off the oil feed and run this oil feed to an oil distribution block you can isolate the vibrations with the line. This distribution block also gives you the option add various gauges, oil temp, pressure etc.

UltimaSE

Got any pics??

Looks good man.

lookin good man!

One bit of advice: Get rid of that boost designs tee before it breaks. Replace it with some seriously heavy brass or steel. I only got through 200 miles or so before it broke off at the oil filter adapter. UltimaSE aint kidding about the fatigue that thing is goind to experience.

PS: I wish I knew about the -10an line thing about 6 months ago. I used the boost designs oil kit as it came. The tiny return line caused oil to back up in my turbo, boil, and fry the rear bearing. It would have saved me the $300 to rebuild my turbo.

I had the same small -6an line too. Lucky me I changed it over before I had any problems.

Very Helpfull!I was wondering where and how to install the oil sending lines...

Oil pressure side is the oil sending unit next to the oil filter. You need a BSPT T connector to connect the oil sending unit and the oil pressure side turbo.

You guys should have done a seach. I don't post here very often, but I did strongly state that the Boost Designs kit comes with a drain line that's FAR too small. Then, a month of two later, I said it again, and Boost Designs came on and said that they started selling larger hoses, at -8AN. I said that was still too small, and never heard another thing about it.-Jeff

Jeff240sx wrote:You guys should have done a seach. I don't post here very often, but I did strongly state that the Boost Designs kit comes with a drain line that's FAR too small. Then, a month of two later, I said it again, and Boost Designs came on and said that they started selling larger hoses, at -8AN. I said that was still too small, and never heard another thing about it.-Jeff

So exactly what is it you want?

Jeff240sx wrote:You guys should have done a seach. I don't post here very often, but I did strongly state that the Boost Designs kit comes with a drain line that's FAR too small. Then, a month of two later, I said it again, and Boost Designs came on and said that they started selling larger hoses, at -8AN. I said that was still too small, and never heard another thing about it.-Jeff

Were so sorry all knowing car GOD!, its only obvious that you have a massive Peni$..../end sarcasm

Give him a brake, he did post up the info awhile back. So he does have a right to give alot of people the I told you so comment.

However, its a tad bit late.

Great post man.

WDRacing wrote:Give him a brake, he did post up the info awhile back. So he does have a right to give alot of people the I told you so comment.

However, its a tad bit late.

Great post man.

Thanks WD.

There is no need to be a jerk about this - I didn't say "haha I told you so" or anything else demeaning. Just said that I made 2-3 posts about what a severe issue BD was creating, and that the information was out there. On 3 different forums (ka-t.org, zilvia and here).

k240 - What the hell? You haven't said a thing in this post, except to jump on me. What business do you have to say anything to me here?-Jeff
Modified by Jeff240sx at 11:12 PM 10/19/2005

Jeff is exactly right. 5/8" ID MINIMUM.

Quote »Were so sorry all knowing car GOD!, its only obvious that you have a massive Peni$..../end sarcasm[/quote]And you saying that makes you what? Better?:

So what if i still want my AC? I live in a desert so i kinda need it.

If space is a real problem, you dont have to use a 90* AN fitting there. In fact, using the AN stuff is probably one of the more expensive ways to do the return.

JGS Turbo sells a oil return kit that involves a weld in bung and a tapered nipple that you can just clamp a silicone return hose to (also included in the kit). Thats what I used with no problems. If your AC is in the way, just get a longer hose and work around it.

i use heater hose and just clamp it. is that the same thing? only temporary though

also for the oil feed, me and my friend personally run the fitting from http://www.tunertoys.com its only 20 bux and its made of steel. it has BSPT on one end and is basically a distribution block which allows you to keep your factory oil pressure sender and run an oil pressure gauge and feed the turbo. i havent found anything else that can compare with that fitting but maybe someone else knows of something else. as for the oil return, either run -10AN or 3/4" line for it................no smaller.

Jeff240sx wrote:
Thanks WD.

There is no need to be a jerk about this - I didn't say "haha I told you so" or anything else demeaning. Just said that I made 2-3 posts about what a severe issue BD was creating, and that the information was out there. On 3 different forums (ka-t.org, zilvia and here).

k240 - What the hell? You haven't said a thing in this post, except to jump on me. What business do you have to say anything to me here?-Jeff

Modified by Jeff240sx at 11:12 PM 10/19/2005

Im sorry about that, not like its an excuse, but I was having a crappy day altogether, and shouldnt have tooken it out on you. Sorry about that.

Jeff240sx wrote:Thanks WD.

There is no need to be a jerk about this - I didn't say "haha I told you so" or anything else demeaning. Just said that I made 2-3 posts about what a severe issue BD was creating, and that the information was out there. On 3 different forums (ka-t.org, zilvia and here).

k240 - What the hell? You haven't said a thing in this post, except to jump on me. What business do you have to say anything to me here?-Jeff

Modified by Jeff240sx at 11:12 PM 10/19/2005

Well, I did all my research on the boost design stuff a year ago well before your post in december. At that time I searched every forum I could think of for feedback. Again, at that time there wasn't much bad feedback. Ok, yeah I did't check to see that the bd oil kit had -10an line. Once I had the stuff I didn't continue searching cause I ***umed it would be ok. My mistake, I just wanted to warn anybody else out there.

Ligouri Rd wrote:I just wanted to warn anybody else out there.

Same here. And with the popularity of KA-Ts rising, this is another good time to make absolutely sure people know about the -10AN drain line requirement.

-AN fittings are expensive, but as you can see, it's a clean install with his 90* fitting. I used a longer hose and am using the flexibility of the hose to make the connection. Haven't had drain issues in 10k miles. *NOT A PLUG* I make up oil line kits for people that ask me, and always recommend two items. The Tuner-Toys oil tee and the turbo flanges from Function7 (www.function-7.com). On ebay (not their site), they have the aluminum flanges with the -AN feed and drain nipples machined into them. And the feed flange can be bought with a restrictor hole built-in. Awesome stuff that I have on my car currently, and have zero oil leaking for the first time in my 4 years of boosting. The only issue is that it's $60 for the flanges and tee, versus $10 for NPT to -AN adapters.

So ya.. I'm a fan of -AN connections (with liquid teflon tape at the connections) and the Tuner Toys tee. Its one of the few that fits between our filter and alternator. However, to use the 2nd port on it, you'd need to remote-mount your item (gauge, sensor) using a small short piece of hose. There is no way that you could mount two items (feed, accessory) direct to the tee, no space.-Jeff

Same exact thing, I assumed since it was a kit it had all the correct parts. That is why I show pictures so people have an idea what it should look like.

u guys said not to tee of, but what do u use for ur oil sending unit and the gauge?

i have also read that u can just drill in a little further and then put that on there with a Tee.

I think they meant don't tee off the feed line right there at the oil filter adapter.Run a line from the adapter to a separate tee and put the oil pressure sender (oem or aftermarket) there then continue the line to the turbo. Otherwise use a heavy duty, steel or heavy wall brass, tee at the adapter. I faced my oil pressure sender down instead of out to decrease the moment it sees when the engine shakes.

PS: I don't know if you know this or not: If you are using an aftermarket oil pressure gauge just take out the oem sensor. No sensor plugged in to the harness = oil light not lit up.

Here is a way to test your pressure line and return line before bolting the turbo on. As you can see in the pic the pressure line is duck tape to the return line. This will allow you to see if the return line is installed correctly. If you see oil spilling out you know the drain line is not installed correctly or there is to much oil pressure. If oil is leaking out things you need to check.

1. Oil return line is to small.2. Oil bung on the pan location is to low and oil is backing up not allowing itto drain.3. Oil return line is kinked or not properly routed.4. Incorrect pressure line fitting. Oil pressure line is to big allowing to much pressure oil pressure.

You will have to rig up your MAF to make this work but it is not that hard. You only need to let it run for a few minutes to test this out.




Modified by DammitBobby at 7:22 PM 10/28/2005

what about the sandwich adaptors that go in between the filter n the block? can u just run a line off one of those things to feed your turbo oil?i get the whole drain thing it's the feed i'm sketch on.

yes you can use a oil sandwichyou can also use thishttp://tunertoys.zoovy.com/product/OTODK