Pathfinder / QX4 FAQ *** Check Here First ***

A forum for the legendary Nissan Pathfinder and Infiniti QX4.
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Pwnin O'Brien
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Model Production Years

WD21: 1986.5 - 1995
R50: 1996 - 2004
R51: 2005 - 2010

Maintenance

Q: How often should I change my fuel filter?
A: Nissan suggests that the fuel filter should not be changed unless it becomes clogged (or when it is too late). Many NICO users would recommend you change your fuel filter on a regular basis (maybe once a year or once every two years) since it is very simple to replace and the filter itself is fairly cheap and it can improve vehicle performance. For 2005-2010 Pathfinders, however, it is quite costly and difficult to replace the filter as it is housed inside the fuel pump/sending unit. While the filter on the R51's should be replaced when clogged, it may not be advisable to replace the filter on a regular basis.

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Wheels/Tires

Q: What is the lug pattern?
A: 6 x 139.7mm (6 x 5.5in) for WD21's and R50's, 6 x 114.3mm (6 x 4.5in) for R51's

Q: What is the center bore?
A: 100mm (3.93in)

Q: What is the largest tire I can run with factory suspension?
A: It is not recommended to use a tire taller than 31" as it can cause rubbing on the fender flares or front bumper. You may be able to fit larger tires, however that would require removal of the fender flares as well as an aftermarket bumper (unless you cut away some of the front bumper) and other various trimming/bending.

Q: What is the largest tire I can run with the A.C. (Automotive Customizers) lift?
A: With some serious trimming and bending you may be able to fit as large as a 34" tire, given the fender flares are removed and an aftermarket front bumper is used (unless you cut away some of the front bumper). The A.C. lift has different outcomes on different vehicles, some net more than 2" of lift (after settling) which can allow for larger tires.

Q: Which are better, steel or aluminum wheels?
A: It depends on your application. Steel is much stronger and much cheaper, however it can rust very easily and it weighs significantly more than aluminum or alloy wheels. Aluminum (or alloy) wheels are much lighter and will never rust but they can be quite expensive. If the vehicle spends a lot of time off-road then steel is recommended for strength. If the vehicle is a daily driver or spends most of its time on the road then aluminum (or alloy) is recommended for weight savings and better MPG's. Either wheel will perform the same in either on-road or off-road applications, it really comes down to personal preference.

Q: Can I paint my factory wheels a different color?
A: Sure! It's not a simple process by any means but it can be done in a weekend. The job is much easier if the tires are removed from the rims, although it isn't necessary. For some detailed instructions as well as some pictures of the process, check out the following threads: Painted my stock rims, Painted My Wheels

Engine/Transmission

Q: What are some power adders to get better performance from my Pathfinder/QX4?
A: For the R50's there aren't many options; the two most popular power adders are custom exhaust and a cold air intake (or a high-flow drop-in filter). Some other power adders available for the R50 are high performance camshafts and an ECU reprogramming service. Other options include universal power adders such as upgraded park plugs (such as Pulstar or something similar), electric fan conversion, throttle body bypass and a timing advance. The R51's have a plethora of options including custom bent exhaust systems, a supercharger, custom headers, high performance camshafts as well as a slew of aftermarket ECU programmers. The R51's can also benefit from the same universal power adders listed above for the R50.

Suspension

Q: My car sways at high speeds (on the highway), what is causing this?
A: This is a common problem known to occur on R50 model Pathfinders/QX4s that occurs when the lower control arm bushings become worn out. The issue can simply be fixed by replacing these bushings. Removal and installation of the bushings is not an easy job and requires special tools. A professional installation should be considered.

Note: Polyurethane bushings are available to permanently alleviate this issue; however, new lower control arms (w/ new bushings included) can also be purchased. When considering the price of polyurethane bushings and the price of labor for a mechanic's removal/install - it may be cheaper to purchase completely new lower control arms and tackle the project yourself.

This is not a difficult job, but requires some specialized tools (a press and possibly a come-a-long) to do correctly. The old bushings should be pressed out of the control arms. Doing it any other way may damage the control arms. Average labor rate to replace lower control arm bushings is about 1.2hrs.

Q: What sort of repercussions might I face from running a suspension lift on my Pathfinder/QX4? (i.e.: What additional modifications might I need? What impact is it going to have on street driving? Would you suggest it for a car that is not going to be used for offroad driving? And so on...)
A:

Body

Q: What are the most rust-prone spots?
A: Unfortunately, everywhere! The entire body as well as the entire undercarriage are all prone to rust. If you live in the northern states (or the vehicle is from the northern states, or the rust belt) then you likely have large amounts of rust on the undercarriage. Most of the rust you see on the undercarriage is just surface rust and does not effect the strength or integrity of the parts. As for the vehicle body, the R50's generally rust under the fender flares first. Although you cannot see it, the fenders may already have large rust spots or even body holes due to the rusting; it takes a pretty long time for the rust to make its way past the flares and to the rest of the fenders but the rust will eventually grow to cover the entire fender if not treated.

Q: What’s my paint code?
A: There are two places to find your vehicles paint code. The first place is the label on the driver door jam. On the sticker, it is a 3 character code near the bottom of the label. In the following example the paint code is EW3:
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The second place to find your vehicles paint code is on the placard located in the engine compartment on the firewall.
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General / Miscellaneous

Q: What’s the average gas mileage?
A:

Q: What are some things to look for when purchasing a Pathfinder/QX4?
A:

Q: My HVAC blower only stays on one speed and I can't change it!
A: If you have the automatic HVAC system (with LCD display), then the issue is most likely the fan control amplifier. This part basically controls the four fan speeds and it is probably burnt out and requires replacement. If you have the manual (three dials) HVAC controls then the issue is the fan resistors. The fan resistor is essentially a bank of resistors which control the four fan speeds. The resistors are burnt out and will need to be replaced to restore all of the fan speeds. The following thread explains both issues in detail and steps on how to replace the parts: Blower Motor Problem
Last edited by Towncivilian on Fri Jan 06, 2012 9:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Unstickied; superseded by http://forums.nicoclub.com/pathfinder-qx4-general-information-and-q-a-t549378.html


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Pwnin O'Brien
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Joined: Wed Jun 24, 2009 1:10 pm

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To answer a question just simply post the original question in your post as well as the answer. If you want to post a new question just post the new question and the answer as well as the section you think it belongs in. If the question cannot be categorized under the current section then please include a new section title. Also, please include the Pathfinder model your question/answer pertains to.

After I have added the question or answer to the original thread I will delete your post to let you know I have added it.

Thanks!

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Pwnin O'Brien
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Q: REAL mileage a 94 or similar model gets?
A: Between 12-15 city, 16-20 highway. Mileage was stated at 15/18 when they were new. Depends on engine condition and maintenance. You be better off to test drive one to see if the power output is decent enough for you, if you upsize the tires you're going to lose speed/acceleration real fast. 153 HP, 180 ft-lbs of torque is what they came with new, no idea if that'll last 100K.

Q: Any problems i should look out for or check for when checkin the vehicle out?
A: Auto transmission problems on so-equipped models. Normal auto shifting is quirky at best and took me a while to get used to, but more serious problems like a missing gear(DO NOT BUY) or slippery shifts (might just need a fluid change, knock on wood) are indicators that something really wrong may be about to happen to that automatic. These things have a history of dying without notice and rebuilds or replacements are NOT cheap. ($1100-2200) If you do find a nice auto that shows no problems, you should immediately upgrade your transmission cooler with a high-flow high-capacity external unit and DO NOT USE the stock cooler. The stock cooler clogs up and kills the transmission.

Lack of power problems is another point to contend with as well as the frame rust issues. DEFINITELY check the rear frame over the wheels and near the gas tank for rust. Poke it with a screwdriver, hit it with a small hammer, whatever it takes, just make sure there aren't holes ready to pop out at you next week. You don't want to deal with cutting the frame up and rewelding a bunch of things under there.

Manual transmissions sometimes wear out and slip, stick or grind between gears. There was a design flaw in the 5-speed manual transmissions: the fill hole for the gear oil was located too low on the case, causing underfilling and preventing proper lubrication for the entire gear train inside. They fixed the design in 1996, but to this day I haven't found anyone that knows that besides a Nissan nut or dealership tech. The manual trans needs an extra 1 liter of gear oil on fill-up. You can do that by jacking it up on one side to tip the truck, or by removing the shifter and pouring it in through the hole up on top.

I'd post more stuff, but I'm getting tired. Those are the main bad points.

Oh yeah...exhaust manifolds leaking...very common, caused by poor exhaust stud material, the studs break and cause the manifold to leak. Usually sounds like a clicking noise at startup that gradually quiets down after driving for a little while. Broken-off rusted studs inside the head can be VERY painful to extract due to their location and the fact that if you mis-drill the hole in the head you can drill into the water jacket and then have to buy a whole new head, but studs that break off outside the head can often be hammered and extracted without drilling. The fix: use 300ZX turbo exhaust manifold studs instead. They used different steel on those.

Steering: have someone else turn the steering wheel back and forth quickly while you watch the steering components move underneath...excessive play or looseness in joints can add up to a hefty steering parts bill at the repair shop, mostly because 99% of the shops are crooked and want you to replace everything but also because the steering on WD21's is weeeeeaaaaak. Main problem is the centerlink design which allows the tie rods to twist torsionally, thereby wallering out the joints on both the CL AND the tie rods. The idler arm will follow suit in short order, then the balljoints. It adds up.

Q: How reliable and easy to work on are these trucks?
A: Oh, inasmuch as a 13 year old vehicle is, and can be reliable, I find them to be reliable enough with allowances. You're going to start wearing things out and stuff sometimes stops working when you don't expect it to. Switches, guages, starters, O2 sensors, fan clutches, brakes, timing belt and water pump all wear out and give you grief at one time or another. I never had any complaints about unreliability other than what you would expect to need fixing or replacing on a 19 year old vehicle(mine).

Normal metric tools are all that's needed with exception to the front wheel bearing locknut, which needs a special tool to properly remove and install (a Chevy 1/2 ton front wheel bearing locknut tool can be modified to work in a pinch) but otherwise I've never had to buy anything special to work on it with.

Q: Whats the aftermarket like for these?
A: Poor. I think one company made a short ram intake for the VG30E Pathy but nobody else does(Frankencar). All the Ebay kits are is a cone filter with a MAF plate adapter to bolt it to, might as well just drop a few bucks on a drop-in K&N and be done with it if you ask me. Neither makes much difference. Clear turn signal lenses are about all you're going to find in the way of aftermarket support on body parts except for 4x4 and off-roading-specific parts like rock sliders, winch bumpers light bars and skidplates. Lift kits are available for sure(3" suspension, 4" suspension, 2 or 3" body lift), but your steering will start to fail on you if you beat on it offroad, sometimes even when you're NOT beating on it

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Pwnin O'Brien
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5. WD21 info for Pathfinder from 87-95: Main problems.

Frame rust. Even on non-offroaded Pathys, the frame can rust out quite badly from the inside out, particularly in the rear over the wheels and above the gas tank. Tap on your frame with a small hammer or poke it with a screwdriver to see if you have more holes than you should. ALWAYS inspect any WD21 Pathfinder you wish to purchase before buying it in this regard. Other rust-prone areas are directly under the gas pedal on the floor (the catalytic converter is there and sometimes a leak can shoot superhot exhaust at the floor, which rusts it out badly), under the back seats on the floor (poor seam sealing on Nissan's part) and at the tension rod frame mounts up front. Tension rods are the short bars that go between the lower control arm and the frame in the front suspension. The tension rod mounts have a tendency to waller out and/or rust out, which can result in a broken tension rod and the need to re-weld some steel back into the mounts to fix the problem. Tension rods are also called compression rods or strut rods. I recommend using polyurethane bushings to replace stock rubber tension rod bushings whenever possible.

The stock transmission cooler for automatic transmissions needs replacement! On automatic transmission-equipped Pathfinders: failure of planetary gear set and loss of reverse or forward gears: the stock transmission cooler on WD21's is a far cry from adequate. The stock cooler clogs up over time and chokes line pressure to the transmission, which overheats it, reduces lubrication and RUINS the transmission. The stock cooler is located inside the radiator, which has line inlets at the bottom of the rad.

If you are reading this, have an auto 87-95 Pathy and haven't done so yet, GET AN EXTERNAL TRANSMISSION COOLER.

DO NOT USE the stock transmission cooler. Get yourself the largest trans cooler you can find and install that instead. The plate-type coolers work better than the tube-and-fin type. I personally have a pair of 8x11 plate-type trans coolers from junkyard Ford Exploders installed on mine and have had no problems with them to date. They cost me $5 each and took about an hour or so to install in front of the radiator along with some hose clamps, some hose and a neat ziptie-like mounting kit I bought at a local auto parts store for $5. This will prevent the overheating and eventual internal destruction of your transmission.

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Chunky Chef
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Car: 2001 Nissan Pathfinder LE
Location: Northbrook, IL

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I have a question for the engine/ transmission section. Where are all 6 sparks plug located on a 2001 le pathfinder. It is a 3.5 liter, v6 engine. Please provide pictures if possible. Thanks

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Towncivilian
Posts: 4868
Joined: Sun May 23, 2010 10:21 am
Car: 2001.5 Nissan Pathfinder SE 3.5L 2WD A/T
2007 Nissan Altima 2.5L CVT
2012 Nissan Sentra 2.0L CVT Special
2012 Infiniti G37 Sedan 7A/T
Location: Florida, USA
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Chunky Chef wrote:I have a question for the engine/ transmission section. Where are all 6 sparks plug located on a 2001 le pathfinder. It is a 3.5 liter, v6 engine. Please provide pictures if possible. Thanks
Please see this how-to guide.

On another note, I'll be rewriting this FAQ to provide a lot more general information (fluid capacities, torque specs, recommended fluids, many other frequently asked questions) sometime soon.

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Towncivilian
Posts: 4868
Joined: Sun May 23, 2010 10:21 am
Car: 2001.5 Nissan Pathfinder SE 3.5L 2WD A/T
2007 Nissan Altima 2.5L CVT
2012 Nissan Sentra 2.0L CVT Special
2012 Infiniti G37 Sedan 7A/T
Location: Florida, USA
Contact:

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This thread has been superseded by this thread. Un-stickied.


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